I must be insane .... Even more so

[DoubleChevron]

How lucky am I ( just ask me wife ) :Rolling: :Rolling: A fellow forum member that is local contacted me and offered me this.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103673&stc=1&d=1451613224

Did you spot it ?? It has the right number of pedals in an early 90's model with a 3.9 :burnrubber: :banana: :banana:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103674&stc=1&d=1451613224

See why my wife is so impressed. Two rangies, both broken in the same places :) I was fighting with this bloody great heavy thing trying to get it into the shed.... When it occured to me ..... Well given it won't move under it's own power. That means the borg warner transfer case has died "open" rather than "locked' like the car sitting beside it. So why has it trashed a CV (definitely a 'CV as I have no steering lock when I turn the steering wheel).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103676&stc=1&d=1451613224

Other than a tiny about of gear oil .... The 'CV is dry :o :o There even looks to be traces of rust in there. Gee's the factory sure was scabby with the grease when they assembled these cars. How on earth has this 'CV lasted 300,000km+ with no grease :confused:

I'll whip the "unsmashed 'cv" out of the other car and stick into this one (given the borg warner is broken in "open" mode, this is safe on the driveline .... I'll just get bogged with one wheel spinning... so keep out of the mud and off the grass :) ). Then we'll see how this car drives and make a descisiion on what I'm going to do with the two of htem. They are sister cars, except one is a factory manual, and one is a factory auto.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Lockee]

Nice

[rar110]

Interior looks in great nic.

[DoubleChevron]

Well a previous owner of this Rangie must have been here before.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103678&stc=1&d=1451620172

Wow there is some serious grease on this ones 'cv. So I chucked this one into the manual for now without fitting new gaskets. You see I just need to see how it drives. The front diff obviously needs to be pulled down and checked for dry joints and oil weeping across from the center.

It seems to drive really nicely. The gearshift is centering to the 1st/2nd gear plane. Which makes finding gears "intersting". I quickly googled this, it's just a spring plate on the top of the R380. A simple fix as it'll have to all come to bits to remove the borg warner transfer case either way.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103679&stc=1&d=1451620172


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103680&stc=1&d=1451620172

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103681&stc=1&d=1451620172


Though it seems to run really nicely, surely this gas kit must massively restrict the intake and loose a lot of power ?

[DoubleChevron]

Interior looks in great nic.

The two cars are really in incredibly similar condition. The interior is ok in both of them. They both look good in piccies, but the plastics will be broken on closer inspection :) These '92 cloth interiors seem to last really well.

No doubt it'll all come apart to try and find where the A/C is leaking (that is always fun! ).

seeya,
Shane L.

[dungarover]

You're a true sucker for punishment Shane, thought I was bad. At leasy you'll get the other one going again. Hard to get a Rangie made in that era that is manual, most were sold in auto 9which doesn't bother me because as I have said I am a lazy **** :D:D:D:D:D)

Might know of that Rangie you bought, think the previous owner bought bits off me :)

Trav

[DoubleChevron]

You're a true sucker for punishment Shane, thought I was bad. At leasy you'll get the other one going again. Hard to get a Rangie made in that era that is manual, most were sold in auto 9which doesn't bother me because as I have said I am a lazy **** :D:D:D:D:D)

Might know of that Rangie you bought, think the previous owner bought bits off me :)

Trav

Yeah he has bought parts from you :) .... There both good sound daily drivers .... That need transfer cases and cv's!

The new one has apparently done 50,000km over the last couple of years (including towing car trailers over the place, so I'd consider it a very reliable car). It does have a serpentine belt disco v8 and r380 box in it though. The one I bought from you has done 10,000km in the last 8months and hasn't missed a beat either ........... until the transfer case died (which I was kind of waiting for, so I'm not that fussed).

seeya,
Shane L.

[roverv8]

Lucky bugger :)

[rar110]

Yeah he has bought parts from you :) .... There both good sound daily drivers .... That need transfer cases and cv's!
Should be too hard to find. What will you do with two such great vehicles.

[superquag]

... Not the LEAST bit envious.....

:eek::eek::eek:





Well done ! :)

[DoubleChevron]

Dumb question time :) There must be a cold start timer on these engines. When cold started on petrol it gets so overfueled it will barely run... for about 10seconds. Then it's good as gold. I reckon the cold start timer will be dead or unplugged. Does anyone have any ideas :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[Homestar]

Not a shagged stepper motor?

[DoubleChevron]

Not a shagged stepper motor?

Sounds like I'm trying to do a warm start on a carby motor with the choke full out! I'm assuming there is a timer based cold start on them. As the enrichment suddenly switches off. I will however pull the idle stepper motor off and give it a clean :)

It's idle does randomly fall through the floor, but I put this down to the ancient impco gas kit.

seeya,
Shane L.

[bee utey]

Your excess enrichment may be due to there still being LPG held in the converter from the previous run. Was it switched off last on petrol or LPG?

Possibly the MAF is giving a poor signal, try swapping it. Cold starts are only controlled by the temperature sender for the ECU, its the 2 wire plug nearest to the thermostat just in front of the plenum, check it for tightness. Also check the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator, a failed reg will dribble all of the remaining pressure from the previous run into the manifold.

To find out how well the petrol works on its own, just remove the 5 screws holding the lid on the Impco mixer, remove the diaphragm and spring, refit the cover and drive it. Those mixers can cut power by 25% easily. A different (ring type) mixer and matching converter setup will make a huge difference. Then there's sequential vapour injection, which I am now getting from the UK at around 1/2 the price I used to get it here, even before the $A tanked.

As for the random idle, try raising the base idle using the 3/16 allen key plug in the recess on top of the throttle body. A base idle of at least 500rpm gives the IAC motor more latitude to function without stalling.

[DoubleChevron]

Your excess enrichment may be due to there still being LPG held in the converter from the previous run. Was it switched off last on petrol or LPG?

Possibly the MAF is giving a poor signal, try swapping it. Cold starts are only controlled by the temperature sender for the ECU, its the 2 wire plug nearest to the thermostat just in front of the plenum, check it for tightness. Also check the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator, a failed reg will dribble all of the remaining pressure from the previous run into the manifold.

To find out how well the petrol works on its own, just remove the 5 screws holding the lid on the Impco mixer, remove the diaphragm and spring, refit the cover and drive it. Those mixers can cut power by 25% easily. A different (ring type) mixer and matching converter setup will make a huge difference. Then there's sequential vapour injection, which I am now getting from the UK at around 1/2 the price I used to get it here, even before the $A tanked.

As for the random idle, try raising the base idle using the 3/16 allen key plug in the recess on top of the throttle body. A base idle of at least 500rpm gives the IAC motor more latitude to function without stalling.

Perfect ... thanks! I'll try all those suggestions, they make a huge amount of sense. I might move the low milage OMVL R90 /E with mixer ring over from the automatic and see what difference it makes. I'm pretty sure all the eletrical system will work, but just be driving a different converter. I can just switch them back if it makes no difference. With to basically identical cars here I can play "swap" until the symptoms change to figure out any issues.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

You were right about the cold start being incredibly rich. To test it I started it this morning and as soon as it started running lumpy as buggery, I flicked it to gas. It smoothed out instantly. So your right, it's sucking gas as well as fuel. I'm going to move the mixer ring and OMVL mixer over and see the difference as soon as I get a chance :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[haydz]

hey mate good to see someone fixing up an old rangie.


if you want a good transfer case. i have one in sydney you are welcome to have

thanks hayden

[DoubleChevron]

hey mate good to see someone fixing up an old rangie.


if you want a good transfer case. i have one in sydney you are welcome to have

thanks hayden

What a generous offer! Sadly there is no way I could get it here easily :( I have a gearbox and boxes of parts here for someones old Citroen up in Brisbane too... But it's just so expensive to move these heavy parts around.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103832&d=1451815949

First thing I needed to do before the boss women went in the car was fix the A/C. You know, beside the battery there was a dirty connection onto the condenser... but it didnt' look like fresh oil.... I stuck a new 'O'ring in there either way.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103833&d=1451815949


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103834&d=1451815949


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103835&d=1451815949


Look at all the hose joiners and connectors! This must be to "T" the discovery A/C pump into the classic. Everything is dry and clean. The 'vac pump wasn't running super quiet, so there is still a slight leak somewhere. If the gas leaks again quickly I'll have to pull the evaporator out. I reckon most of the gas had leaked away because the low side service cap was loose. It's a bubbly service valve too. Without the 'O'ring in the lid of the service valve cap screwed down tight, the gas would have leaked away pretty quickly.

Anyway, I took the boss women for a drive ..... The A/C is nice and cold, but gee's it's loud and vibrates the hell out of the dash .... Just like the sister car beside it. She then watched me try to put on the right hand indicator about 5times and said "Why the hell do you want another car just the same, it even has all the same problems". She just doesn't appreciate decent cars with some soul to them ... that's what I tell her :Rolling: :Rolling:

[DoubleChevron]

And just like magic ... we went from this ...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/103679d1451620172-i-must-insane-even-more-so-p1180058.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103836&d=1451816584

It only took about an hour to move that over .... It certainly seems to go a lot better. And the stepper motor now seems to regulator the idle nicely. I did manage to get the idle to cycle crazily at one point. It would rev to 1600rpm .. .massively over-correct back to 300rpm .... the massively over-correct to 1600rpm etc.... I haven't managed to get it to do it a 2nd time yet. But I reckon it's 'cos there is no load of a torque converter on it to slow the reaction of the stepper motor. I'm not sure how to fix that. I'll get some aerostart later and spray around the mixer ring and ensure it's 'O'ring isn't letting air in. That might effect idle as it could draw air that isn't passing through the mixer ring.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103837&d=1451816584

this will be why it was runnng on both gas and LPG when flicking from gas back to petrol. The clown that fitted the gas kit, fitted the cut-off solenoid backwards (I wonder if that matters ?).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103838&d=1451816584

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103839&d=1451816584

Check this out .... That IMPCO kit is like shoving a bloody cork in the intake. That is a staggering amount of restriction!

I'll be interested to see if the previous owner thinks it's runs any differently when I catch up with him!

seeya,
Shane L.

[bee utey]

LPG solenoids are spring loaded so that they can easily pass LPG against their normal flow direction. Basically you would drain the line to the tanks with that setup and an Impco converter before it stopped running on gas. The OMVL has a vapour solenoid on it but that only stops part of the flow so I suggest you get a proper underbonnet lock off for the LPG and fit it. These also come with a mandatory filter that stops loose crud from blocking the valve open.

Example of a new one:

LPG Under Bonnet Bowel GAS Lock OFF Solenoid Valve Filter | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LPG-Under-bonnet-Bowel-Gas-Lock-Off-Solenoid-Valve-Filter-/231738573071?hash=item35f4b2010f:m:myFjpZz7EckBnSG 3pKDUDCA)

You should be able to pick up a second hand one for not very much, there are always a few at every wreckers and some on ebay.

[DoubleChevron]

LPG solenoids are spring loaded so that they can easily pass LPG against their normal flow direction. Basically you would drain the line to the tanks with that setup and an Impco converter before it stopped running on gas. The OMVL has a vapour solenoid on it but that only stops part of the flow so I suggest you get a proper underbonnet lock off for the LPG and fit it. These also come with a mandatory filter that stops loose crud from blocking the valve open.

Example of a new one:

LPG Under Bonnet Bowel GAS Lock OFF Solenoid Valve Filter | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LPG-Under-bonnet-Bowel-Gas-Lock-Off-Solenoid-Valve-Filter-/231738573071?hash=item35f4b2010f:m:myFjpZz7EckBnSG 3pKDUDCA)

You should be able to pick up a second hand one for not very much, there are always a few at every wreckers and some on ebay.

The other car has one of those valves. There is another solenoid on the chassis, and probably another on each of the scuba tanks. I'll check there flow of direction and spin them around if I need to. Thanks for that. I assumed a solenoid ... any gas solenoid would stop the gas. I didnt' realise you needed a dedicated lock off solenoid (I guess I should have asked my uncle this stuff. He's retired now but spent the last 20years doing gas conversions).

[bee utey]

The valve on the chassis is probably not a solenoid valve but a tee connector valve with a relief valve. Spring loaded tank lock solenoids need only a mesh filter to be legal and are designed so that any high pressure generated in the supply line can easily bleed back into the tank. This happens when you park your vehicle over a patch of sun roasted bitumen in high summer and heat soak gets to the contents of the liquid line. Tee connector valves have a relief valve built in for the line forwards to the engine as they can't pass LPG back to either tank.

BTW they aren't "scuba" tanks, really, confusing a Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus tank with a smallish LPG tank is very sloppy terminology. It's like calling your pride and joy a jeep or something similar. ;)

[DoubleChevron]

The valve on the chassis is probably not a solenoid valve but a tee connector valve with a relief valve. Spring loaded tank lock solenoids need only a mesh filter to be legal and are designed so that any high pressure generated in the supply line can easily bleed back into the tank. This happens when you park your vehicle over a patch of sun roasted bitumen in high summer and heat soak gets to the contents of the liquid line. Tee connector valves have a relief valve built in for the line forwards to the engine as they can't pass LPG back to either tank.

BTW they aren't "scuba" tanks, really, confusing a Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus tank with a smallish LPG tank is very sloppy terminology. It's like calling your pride and joy a jeep or something similar. ;)

:Rolling: :Rolling: I know there not scuba tanks .... It just what everyone calls them ... so people know what you mean if you say it. If you say "twin tanks mounted underneath" you'll get a blank look from most people :)

The chassis one is mounted on on a bracket under the front door. You know it could even be a lock off solenoid. I'll need to double check.

I'm getting random petrol fumes too. So I'll need to get under the back and see how it all fits. The charcoal canister under the bonnet has been removed and the lines blocked. So I'm assuming the ~40litre tank mounted in the back corner must have it's own breather pipes ... that may be disconnected (it could be a poor tank cap seal too, 'cos it often smells going around left hand corners). I thought those ULP filler caps were generally pretty fume proof though (unlike the fuel filler caps on pre-80's cars).

I'm also guessing the fuel gauge on the dash shows the fuel level in the little tank that's been added ?

seeya
Shane L.

[bee utey]

ULP caps wear out just like any mechanical device. I throw a few away every year. The fuel gauge sender is part of the entire fuel pump assembly in the auxiliary tank so yes, the dash gauge will read petrol level.

The charcoal canister is an integral part of the breather system, trace the pipes and see how many are disconnected under the vehicle. I've seen plenty of really dodgy aux tank installs, nothing there would surprise me. If you can fit up another canister it won't harm the vehicle and it stops those fumes wafting in your nose. Sometimes owners stuff their aux tanks to the top of the filler tube and then the charcoal canister fills up with liquid petrol and drips down the inner guard. Don't be tempted to emulate these people, fit a sill tank if you want to carry more petrol.

[Lockee]

Happy to donate a 93 Charcoal Canister to the cause

[DoubleChevron]

Happy to donate a 93 Charcoal Canister to the cause

Thanks for the offer, I'm going to crawl around under it and see what is going on first. There is a drain plug on the bottom, so if I need to drop the tank to see what is what, it's not a big deal :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[Meccles]

A bit off topic but very much in keeping with " I must be insane" got quote from panel shop to rebuild body etc it was 😳😳😂😂😂 but even more insane I said do it! Just want it done!

[roverv8]

A bit off topic but very much in keeping with " I must be insane" got quote from panel shop to rebuild body etc it was 😳😳😂😂😂 but even more insane I said do it! Just want it done!

Cool, start a new thread with before & after pics!!!

[DoubleChevron]

A bit off topic but very much in keeping with " I must be insane" got quote from panel shop to rebuild body etc it was 😳😳😂😂😂 but even more insane I said do it! Just want it done!

What are you rebuilding the body on :confused: I'd paint a classic myself. You can unbolt all the body panels quite readily to swap out heavily damaged panels ( just like a Citroen DS ). I'd have to bog 'em all though, 'cos I wouldn't want to try and work aluminium for fear of work hardening it.

The Rangies previous owner came down and collected his plates last night... With the OMVL converter he reckons it's down on power at high revs ... I thought it was running to lean at high revs in the other one too (it would stone wall and die at 4500rpm) So I'll screw the power valve out a quarter of a turn at a time and see how it works out. I'll also adjust the idle in half a turn to. You see when warm it can sometimes oscillate. Rev to 1500rpm ... drop back to 300rpm .... roar back to 1500rpm .... As the stepper motor desperately drives itself in and out, always massively overshooting and never settling. Flicking it to petrol instantly bring the idle to a rock steady 800rpm. flicking straight back to gas is then fine as the idle has stabilised. What I'll do is adjust the idle screw on the mixer 1/4 turn at a time and see if I can get it to settle itself. I reckon it'll be slightly rich on the idle circuit, that's why it doesn't do when it's cold.

Anyway I went inside to find my 3year really upset. He was saying "No daddy fix the Range Rover" ..... He's worked out if the number plates are removed from a car..... We no longer drive it :Rolling: . And the previous owner just took his numberplates back. He LOVES riding around in the old cars, I'd already put the baby seat in it and taken him for a ride.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Meccles]

I run out of time trying to do everything myself and also accept that some things - paint and panel for one, others are much better than I am at it. Re a new thread gotta visit Incisor soon for lessons on embedding photos. But yeah being going on for 3 years now. This year is big push/ expenditure to get all collected bits fitted😀

[Meccles]

Oh and it's not exterior panels that need work. It is all cancer underneath. Will end up with two out of 10 original body/chassis mounts left. New rear crossmember/sills/ light boxes etc etc

[rar110]

I'm currently working on the 110. I've been very surprised how well the alloy straightens out with 1000s of light taps.

[DoubleChevron]

I've tried straightening a Citroen DS aluminium bonnet in the past ...... It was a HUGE failure for me :( You see I had a HIGH spot I just couldn't get "low/level" and didn't have a torch to try shrinking ( aka: overheating and destroying) it with :wasntme:

Anyway, the idle cycling problem on the Rangie ..... I opened the power valve in the vapour line by 1.5turns and the idle is now as good as petrol.... I think we have picked up the top end too :banana: I find it highly unlikely this will make fuel economy worse than the already "****house" economy they get :D

seeya
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well I finally got around to fitting that temperature gauge. I picked a nice spot next to the steering wheel to the left a bit where you can see it. Yep, straight through to find 1/3rd of the hole has a metal dash structure behind it :bangin:

Anyway, can we fit the earlier dash top to one of these with the round gauges in them?

eg:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/116.jpg

It would allow you to put some nice gauges in there without drilling holes in the damn dashboard. It's not biggie eitherway, I need to chase up a better dashtop as this one is all melted. I need to break out the soldering iron too. There is quite a few of those crappy plastic crimp on joiners around the place. My experience with these is they fall apart. There is a couple of switches under the steering column to open the fuel flap and disable the central locking (brilliant idea or what ... so if ti's cycling and driving you nuts, you just shut the power off to it :) ). They look well crimped but in typical crimp on terminal style fashion the wires fell out of the crimps when I dropped the bottom of the steering column down. Lots of soldering for me again in the future at some point.

I need to pull the dash out to throw the LT230 in... the A/C leaking away I can coudl "sort of" smell the gas up under the dash, so the evaporator can come out too :) All fun right :D Fix everything once ... forget about it in the future.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Bradtot]

Hi Shayne
Have a look in the gallery under my name and you will see pics of my rangie with holes drilled and vdo gauges fitted. Yes there is metal behind the dash..did this on my 89 rangie as I liked them on my 82 model. Not a hard job.
I got good at removing the dash as well got it down to 45 mins to get it apart to take aircon out..several times chasing leaks and replacing , repairing heater box and core.
Glad your having fun!!:):):)

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Shayne
Have a look in the gallery under my name and you will see pics of my rangie with holes drilled and vdo gauges fitted. Yes there is metal behind the dash..did this on my 89 rangie as I liked them on my 82 model. Not a hard job.
I got good at removing the dash as well got it down to 45 mins to get it apart to take aircon out..several times chasing leaks and replacing , repairing heater box and core.
Glad your having fun!!:):):)

The only way I learn is my mistakes :) I ovalised out the hole straight away with the hole saw when I hit the metal (it's not a metal cutting saw) so the hole is to big for the gauge ..... sigh... Fun right :) (we need a head butting brick wall smiley here :D ). I'm not concerned, I'm sure someone in town will have an un-butchered, un-melted dash top somewhere :)

I'll pull the dash out and repair as much of the broken plastic as I can soon ... when I do the A/C and LT230 conversion.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Corgie Carrier]

:wallbash: You mean like this one?

Working on rangies is fun, once you have done everything, it's fun the second time as you know how to do it.:arms:

[DoubleChevron]

:wallbash: You mean like this one?

Working on rangies is fun, once you have done everything, it's fun the second time as you know how to do it.:arms:

Yes, and everything is pre-broken for you in all the required places too :wallbash: :D >>> Yes that's the smiley I need :D

[DoubleChevron]

I thought I better look at the A/C and check the wiring under the dash ... Do you get the feeling I'm putting off pulling it apart to fit the LT230 as much as possible :wasntme:

Anyway, the center console came out very easily ('cos it's already broken into several parts for me :oops2: Hey the part of the dash/console that the radio is fitted to is even easier .................. 'cos it was already in about 4 bits :Rolling:

anyway, only a few self tappers holding the tunnel cover in ... so I whipped that out.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105015&stc=1&d=1454139462

I just whipped the cover off the spring unit (I'd already googled this and was aware of the issue).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105016&stc=1&d=1454139462

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105017&stc=1&d=1454139462

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105018&stc=1&d=1454139462

It does look robust enough ... I wonder why it breaks? All it is a spring stop.

[DoubleChevron]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105020&stc=1&d=1454139718

I just braced it up with a metal bracket I found.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105021&stc=1&d=1454139718

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105022&stc=1&d=1454139718

I can now select gears easily.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105023&stc=1&d=1454139718

The A/C unit dropped out quite easily. I just unscrewed it where required. pulled the drains off and dropped it down. If you break off the tar like insulator around the TX valve you will find both hose connections .... There was no gas at all left there when I unscrewed the connectors :eek: It would only be a month ago I filled it !

[DoubleChevron]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105024&stc=1&d=1454140060

You just unscrew all the little screws and the thing comes apart. It really is very **** quality and incredibly flimsy ... :)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105025&stc=1&d=1454140060

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105026&stc=1&d=1454140060

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105027&stc=1&d=1454140060

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105028&stc=1&d=1454140060

Those green dots ...... tracer dye right ?? I don't even need a UV light to see that ... the evaporator is junk :(

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105039&stc=1&d=1454157617

Well I whipped the other one out ... It holds gas for about a year before it looses it's effectiveness. I wasn't concerned, you could see it's oily around the compressor pulley. Anyway, look at the tracer dye staining around the TX 'O'ring.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105040&stc=1&d=1454157617

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105041&stc=1&d=1454157617

Signs if it starting to leak around the evaporator too. I wonder if this car has big leaks somewhere else not obvious, I wouldn't have thought those minor looking evaporater leaks would cause it to loose the gas in a few weeks ....:confused: There is no signs anywhere else of it leaking, but I'll go over everything and replace every 'O'ring I can get to anyway :)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105042&stc=1&d=1454157617

Oh yeah.... the fans the vibrate the buggery out of the dash ..... They are silent and smooth running if your wire them across the battery. They vibrate so much 'cos there mounted to a frail piece of plastic crap ... that's "kind of" screwed to a crappy plastic dash.... I wonder if you can somehow mount the motors so they are supported.

seeya,
Shane L.