Vehicle recovery / breakdown tool kit

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hoping to get some advice on what I might need to add to my 'breakdown' kit.
Vehicle is a 2012 defender 90.

In addition to the factory jack / tool kit in the vehicle, I keep a small ammo box behind the passenger seat, and have managed to cram it full of tools for 'just in case'.

Please feel free to add some suggestions / comments to what else I might need to consider adding, OR removing. This is a basic kit for in the car at all times, extended trips might include additional oils, belts, fluids, filters puncture kits etc- opinions also welcomed!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103801&stc=1&d=1451800306

Top Row (L>R):
Assorted blade fuses, Multimeter, Test lamp, Assorted duct / electrical tape, bull nose pliers, long nose pliers, 15mm spanner, 9/16" spanner, Box wrench 13/14/17/19 ratchet combo, Box wrench 8/9/10/12 ratchet combo, Ratchet spanners, 8/10/12/13/14/17/19mm, assorted paracord / caribiner, small occie strap

Middle Row (L>R):
Clean chux rag, clean rag, combo stubby philips / flat screwdriver, Fire steel, zip ties, 5mm, swiss champ knife, emerson roadhouse knife, leatherman tool

Bottom Row (L>R):
Gloves, Torx wrenches, hex wrenches

[AndyG]

Silicone tape for repairing I/C hoses
Screwdrivers
Silastic
Locktite
A better wheel chock than standard, ( Clark Rubber)
Wooden base for jack

[austastar]

Hi,
27 mm socket and long breaker bar for wheel nuts.

Cheers

[alien]

A tip that was passed onto me years ago and has been mentioned on here...
When working on the Defender use only the tools you carry.
If you need a tool from the shed add it to the kit.


Consider adding a set of screwdrivers for water/intercooler hoses.
I carry a set of wheel bearings and a seal, they are the same on all 4 corners.
I'm going to add a drive flange soon.
Lots of cable ties and spare nuts and bolts are handy for patch jobs.
An EFS and a Knockometer come in handy too.
Vice grips/lock on pliers.

[weeds]

If you are going to the trouble of carrying a spare set of bearings the job would be easier with

- stack nut replaced with double but
- hub nut spanner, multi grips for big shifter will do the job
- new lock washer
- wheel bearing grease or pre-pack the bearings.
- slot the front brake line bracket prior to trip....saves bleeding

A well service car is the best tip.

[87County]

As weeds writes, a well maintained motor car is the best bet!

I'll just go where you go Mitch 😊

[Toxic_Avenger]

All great ideas chaps,
I think I could use either silastic OR rescue tape, they seem interchangablefor wrapping / clogging purposes?
Loctite, not sure when that would be needed (I'm thinking in a pinch you could just check / retighten any nuts which may come loose?)
Ive got the factory wheel brace, so no need for additional breaker bar. I should probably put the wheel chock back into the kit, however in a bind, my ammo toolbox would probably suffice as a chock (or borrow a local bush rock, or lump of dead wood).

Spare nuts are a good tip, I suppose a short length of wire and some (gasp) cable nuts might also work to get one out of the crap in an electrical failure.

Screwdrivers are a good idea, I've got the stubby one, but I guess it comes down to whether these will work either alone, or in conjunction with other tools to remove other items to get better access to things like IC hoses...

Things like axels and bearings and greases would probably be more of a long tour / remote travel addition, not an around town , populated area kit.

[Toxic_Avenger]

As weeds writes, a well maintained motor car is the best bet!

I'll just go where you go Mitch 😊

Yes, I agree with this, I think we've all heard of the 6 P's ;)

It's always a good idea to travel with others where possible, if there is a significant risk of damage / danger if you were to break down.

[DiscoMick]

Tyre repair kit. Several litres of water.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[Dorian]

I'd chuck in a torch or a head lamp, put some tape over the batteries to stop them going off. I keep a torch in the console but it's always else where when I need it.

I assume it's a typo and you meant silicone tape, I've have used self fusing silicone tape (for electrical kit) and it didn't hold up to the coolant pressure, (got me to a mechanic with a bit of refilling). I've seen rescue tape used and it's the duck's nutz's in comparison.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I always keep a 4D Mag lite beside the passenger seat. also have a DH lamp, but, well... who wants to be a DH?! :p


Rescue tape is a proprietary name for the same thing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/897.jpg
Old habits die hard!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Everything except the tarp, knives and multimeter (refer first post) fit in this ammo box, which works well for a 90.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/102716d1449394762-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20151206_154336.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/102717d1449394762-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20151206_155140.jpg

[rangieman]

Do Not and i Repeat Do Not Rely on the factory wheel brace :twisted: You do need a 60cm (2 FT) Breaker bar and sockets dont fool your self.
I dont care how well cared or serviced your car is they still break down .
Im sorry i always carry more than enough tools as well as the main common spares .
I know you cant carry everything but im not going to be caught unprepared
Yes i did cubs and scouts;)

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah, while it would be nice, I don't think it's necessary to carry something that big? I too appreciate a good tool (I have an enviable collection), I reckon a 40cm 1/2" breaker bar would be more than enough to get you out of the most serious pickle.

Notwithstanding things like crank pulleys, I've never had an issue with wheel nuts using the stock gear.

To put it in perspective:
130Nm torque is needed for the alloy wheel nuts.
1kg of weight is approx 10 newtons of force
If you had 70kg body mass, and stood on the end of a 1m breaker bar, you'd be putting 700Nm on that nut.
Just standing on the stock 40cm tyre lever is 700x0.4 = 280Nm (plenty!)... and that's before I break out the hi-lift jack handle to make a 1.2m long breaker bar, or utilise the 'jumping up and down on the lever and get mad' technique!

I'm all for carrying everything that could potentially be needed, but we need to remember that a 'remote touring' repair kit would be significantly different.

For example, back in september, I was heading to dubbo and pulled into Coolah for a bite to eat. I heard a terrible clanging as I drove off, and discovered it was a diff guard flopping about. I didn't have a 15mm spanner (or my all purpose nut-rounding device, AKA shifter), so I had to beg/borrow one from the local NRMA mechanic. One now lives in the tool box, as well as it's 9/16" mexican cousin for the driveshaft.

[rangieman]

Yeah, while it would be nice, I don't think it's necessary to carry something that big? I too appreciate a good tool (I have an enviable collection), I reckon a 40cm 1/2" breaker bar would be more than enough to get you out of the most serious pickle.

Notwithstanding things like crank pulleys, I've never had an issue with wheel nuts using the stock gear.

To put it in perspective:
130Nm torque is needed for the alloy wheel nuts.
1kg of weight is approx 10 newtons of force
If you had 70kg body mass, and stood on the end of a 1m breaker bar, you'd be putting 700Nm on that nut.
Just standing on the stock 40cm tyre lever is 700x0.4 = 280Nm (plenty!)... and that's before I break out the hi-lift jack handle to make a 1.2m long breaker bar, or utilise the 'jumping up and down on the lever and get mad' technique!

I'm all for carrying everything that could potentially be needed, but we need to remember that a 'remote touring' repair kit would be significantly different.

For example, back in september, I was heading to dubbo and pulled into Coolah for a bite to eat. I heard a terrible clanging as I drove off, and discovered it was a diff guard flopping about. I didn't have a 15mm spanner (or my all purpose nut-rounding device, AKA shifter), so I had to beg/borrow one from the local NRMA mechanic. One now lives in the tool box, as well as it's 9/16" mexican cousin for the driveshaft.
In theory yes untill the dealer or tyre shop do your wheel nuts up to some stupid torque:twisted:

[AndyG]

I would be looking to secure that toolbox, would be a nasty missile in a roll over.
Slightly off topic
First Aid Kit (people repairs)
Toilet Paper
Soap
more toilet paper
Only had one roadside emergency and it was most appreciated.

[Fast Freddie]

In theory yes untill the dealer or tyre shop do your wheel nuts up to some stupid torque:twisted:
I understand this problem and how frustrating it can be but, I've heard so many stories of cars leaving tyre repair shops with loose wheel nuts, that I never trust 'em these days.
I back-off and re-torque (at home, using my 'inner' torque-wrench) all my wheel nuts asap after any visit to the tyre shop and, every time a wheel nut is touched for any reason, the stud always gets a dab of quality copper grease.
There is no reason to expect monster torque values and squealing threads when either getting wheels off or putting them on.
(Breaker bar and full socket set for the big trips though :) )

[DiscoMick]

A large packet of wet wipes. Have many uses.

[Xtreme]

And a couple of old towels are handy to stop all your 'emergency repair gear' from rattling around .............. and come in handy as rags when you are called on to do that unexpe ted repair. ;)

[AndrewMilne]

And a couple of old towels are handy to stop all your 'emergency repair gear' from rattling around .............. and come in handy as rags when you are called on to do that unexpe ted repair. ;)
There speaks good ol' practical experience and common-sense.
How rare to hear!

[Tins]

All good ideas. I'd add Rapidfix or Q bond, a viscous fan spanner and a spare key. A couple of years ago, on a Winter Wombat weekend, someone's D2 managed to lock itself with the keys inside, so the spare key should be in a safe, dry place outside the car.

[51mondays]

I dont care how well cared or serviced your car is they still break down .
Im sorry i always carry more than enough tools as well as the main common spares .
I know you cant carry everything but im not going to be caught unprepared
Yes i did cubs and scouts;)

Oh and the other thing is knowing what to do with the tools........which I don't really. That's the bit that concerns me. (So for me definitely travel with others)

[Tank]

I would ditch the ratchet spanners and go for a set of open end/ring spanners 8mm to 19mm and a set of double end ring spanners same size range, a set of 1/2" or 3/8" drive socket only sets and a single 1/2" drive tube socket 27mm and a decent length breaker bar.
Why? ratchet spanners will always be needed when there is little space around the nut/bolt head and ratchet spanners will strip their gears a long time before a conventional spanner will break.
A good quality phillips head screwdriver with a square shank and with the shank going all the way through the handle, can be used as an impact screwdriver, a ball peen hammer and a couple of good quality Shifters and vice grips, I would purchase the best quality I could afford, Sidchrome, Kingchrome etc.
Silicon Gasket maker, Bar's Leak for emergencies only and make sure you have a 15mm socket to go with your decent size breaker bar to release the belt tensioner.
Go Metric and whether 1/2" or 3/8" a decent ratchet will help, I'd go for the Sidchrome 1/2" or 3/8" ratcheting handle Ratchet, in tight spaces it is magic, if you have no room to swing the handle you can rotate the handle and it will do up or undo with the same action, also a decent screwdriver kit, a lot of tools but the day you are stuck you will appreciate them, BTW leather or cloth (canvas) rolls to keep your tools in are handy and saves time looking for a particular tool, Regards Frank.

[DefenderSte]

A cracking thread there Toxic.... :):)


As a 1st Defender owner this has given me some great ideas as to what I should be putting in my truck tool box...... :):)


Great stuff keep it up.... :):)

[Toxic_Avenger]

I would ditch the ratchet spanners and go for a set of open end/ring spanners 8mm to 19mm and a set of double end ring spanners same size range, a set of 1/2" or 3/8" drive socket only sets and a single 1/2" drive tube socket 27mm and a decent length breaker bar.
Why? ratchet spanners will always be needed when there is little space around the nut/bolt head and ratchet spanners will strip their gears a long time before a conventional spanner will break.
A good quality phillips head screwdriver with a square shank and with the shank going all the way through the handle, can be used as an impact screwdriver, a ball peen hammer and a couple of good quality Shifters and vice grips, I would purchase the best quality I could afford, Sidchrome, Kingchrome etc.
Silicon Gasket maker, Bar's Leak for emergencies only and make sure you have a 15mm socket to go with your decent size breaker bar to release the belt tensioner.
Go Metric and whether 1/2" or 3/8" a decent ratchet will help, I'd go for the Sidchrome 1/2" or 3/8" ratcheting handle Ratchet, in tight spaces it is magic, if you have no room to swing the handle you can rotate the handle and it will do up or undo with the same action, also a decent screwdriver kit, a lot of tools but the day you are stuck you will appreciate them, BTW leather or cloth (canvas) rolls to keep your tools in are handy and saves time looking for a particular tool, Regards Frank.

Good thinking Frank. Thanks for the ideas.
It's becoming more apparent that I need to consider the difference between the 'always in the car' kit and the 'lookout fellas, I'm 500km from the nearest town' kit.