Disco 4 trailer plug

[Konradical]

Evening all,

With the impending arrival of our new D4, I have been thinking about the stuff that needs to be done to make it fit in to our family and its needs.

One of those things is to set it up for our Jayco Dove camper.

The dealer knows that the D4 will tow and is going to set it up so the rear sensors don't go crazy, etc.. when a trailer is connected, during pre-delivery.

But what I have noticed is that the D4 has round trailer plugs fitted. Our van and current vehicles are set up with a flat 12 pin plug, which works out quite neat with the integrated pins to charge the home battery in the camper, plus spares for other auxiliary things.

Is it possible and has anybody done it, retro fit the standard plugs with the 7 or 12 pin flat plugs?

I plan on using a Redarc brake controller with the remote head, as I have seen one fitted to a 2012 D4 and it looked very neat and integrated.

I have done a search in the forums and posts, but I can't seem to operate it effectively to find an answer.

Look forward to your feedback!

Kon

Sent from my Nexus 6P using AULRO mobile app

[letherm]

But what I have noticed is that the D4 has round trailer plugs fitted. Our van and current vehicles are set up with a flat 12 pin plug, which works out quite neat with the integrated pins to charge the home battery in the camper, plus spares for other auxiliary things.

Is it possible and has anybody done it, retro fit the standard plugs with the 7 or 12 pin flat plugs?


A simple solution if you can't find the retro fit solution is an adapter from places like Super Chief Auto. They're around 10 dollars or so. Or were when I bought mine about 2 years ago.

Martin

[BMKal]

Have a read of this thread.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/223901-12s-tow-electrics-white-plug-removal.html

The D4 comes standard with two round plugs (a black one and a white one). The black one is the South Australian / NT standard and is what I have used (I converted both my trailers to this style of plug).

The white plug (12S style) is the English standard, and most people don't use them here, though they can be used for caravan power supply / charging the batteries. I'd recommend removing the 12S plug as described in the thread I've linked to, and fitting your flat plug in its place. You should be able to find standard wiring diagrams for a 12S plug so that you can translate this to the correct pin connections for your style of plug.

Don't forget that if your trailer/s have LED tail and indicator lights, you will need to install a load resistor (Narva or LED Technologies) on one of the indicator feeds on each trailer so that your Disco will recognize that the trailer is there. The standard "sensor" in the D4's wiring circuit will only "see" a trailer fitted with conventional incandescent globes, and will not "see" a trailer fitted with LED lights unless you add the load resistor to one of the indicator circuits.

[Meken]

103896
12 flat to 2x 7pin. The black socket (7n - n for normal) has the standard trailer configure EXCEPT for the electric brake feed which in Aus is pin 5 - disco uses pin 5 for one side tail light so you need to look at & print the electric brake controller instal thread -there is a handy summary put together by one of the aulroians- search it on here makes it so easy - that will tell you where to cut the loom and connect the Ebc wires...
So all 7 "small pins" side of the 12 flat go to the black 7 plug & the 5 "large pins" side of the 12 flat go to the White plug.
I made my adapter - easy as
White socket 7S (supplementary) is just that supplementary power - 2 x 12v supplies & 2x earths. I used standard 7 pin plug & pulled the earth pin out of the centre (still leaves 1 earth pin & I only used 1x 12v feed to run my van fridge)
You can get the White 7S plugs on eBay from the UK - pretty cheap.
Tow pro - great choice really happy with mine
I doubt you will find a premade adapter at auto accessory stores for a 12 flat to /x 7 pin (was on 7flat to 7 large round) when I was looking a few months ago.

PS I taped the 12 flats together just for peace of mind - unfortunately only had blue tape at the time :(

[LRD414]

These diagrams should help Kon (one below and one attached pdf). They are copied from the EBC sticky thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brakes.html

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/964.jpg

Regards,
Scott

[Konradical]

[/QUOTE]Don't forget that if your trailer/s have LED tail and indicator lights, you will need to install a load resistor (Narva or LED Technologies) on one of the indicator feeds on each trailer so that your Disco will recognize that the trailer is there. The standard "sensor" in the D4's wiring circuit will only "see" a trailer fitted with conventional incandescent globes, and will not "see" a trailer fitted with LED lights unless you add the load resistor to one of the indicator circuits.[/QUOTE]


Where would this be fitted? All of our trailers are fitted with LED lights. Could it be fitted to the wiring in the car? I'd rather not have to retrofit all trailers.

Thanks to all who have replied. It has been helpful and I can plan my attack now.

[Meken]

Short answer - no you can't wire a load resistor into the car otherwise the car will think there is always a trailer connected.
There are a few options -
#1 you can buy a "box of tricks" that can plug in to the car socket first then the trailer plugs into that - this saves having to modify each trailer - also means if you borrow a trailer it'll by useable also. Linear electronics make one also there's one called pulse buster - they are overkill because they have relay circuits in them to quell the flickering that occurs with D3's & older freelander2 -and they'll set you back about $250.
#2 Linear electronics make the box of tricks in a version that gets wired into the car & it has switch to switch it online when you have trailer plugged in so that the car doesn't think there one always connected
#3 someone on here wired a load resistor into the trailer indicator circuit in the car - with a switch so it is bypassed when no trailer - this probably the cheapest option of you are good with auto electrics - just have to remember to ice the switch

[Narangga]

Where would this be fitted? All of our trailers are fitted with LED lights. Could it be fitted to the wiring in the car? I'd rather not have to retrofit all trailers.

Thanks to all who have replied. It has been helpful and I can plan my attack now.

Check out this

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/85396-discovery-3-led-trailer-lights.html

And this sort of thing can be purchased

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-comms-equipment-sale/230350-linear-electronics-led-adapter-perth-wa.html

After reading a thread (unrelated to the one above) on the forum I bought this one

Discovery 3 | LED Tow Connect - Tow LED Fitted Trailers Safely (http://www.ledtowconnect.com/2012/06/Discovery-3.html)

[Smocky]

Not to hijack, but rather to add to this thread.....

I have a MY16 D4. I have tried to research about the LED trailer light thing and can't quite get clarity.

It seems I have to buy a $200 odd device that sits between the car and the trailer?

Is there an option to wire something in to the CT wiring to fix this permanently without needing to have endless adapters?

Smocky.

[ytt105]

Smocky

You could just wire an additional couple of small globe blinkers onto the CT.

Problem solved.

[rocket rod]

Kon

Check with your dealer about the LED trailer light issue because I picked up my new D4 in Aug 2015 and was told at the time the issue is sorted out now and it works fine with my trailer with LED lights. Also check out the height of the std tow ball because it was too low and I could even put my off road trailer on to the ball. Bought a Mitch Hitch the next day.

[strydes]

Is there an option to wire something in to the CT wiring to fix this permanently without needing to have endless adapters?


Yep, Grab these (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/12-volt-21-watt-led-load-resistor/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=led-truck-trailer-popup-layout). They come in a twin pack (one for each indicator). Join the two together at one end and splice into your CT ground wire. Attach the other end of each to the two indicator circuits.

To finish the job, buy one of these (http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/general-purpose-enclosures/3439883/'searchTerm=3439883&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6 265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C267 06D3D5E5C647B367D247C5E5C647B377D247C5E5C647B31307 D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5 F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D33343339383 833267374613D3334333938383326), and mount both of them in there, on the a-frame with a nice watertight grommet for your cable exit. Job done.

That's what I did and hence sold my Linear Electronics box of tricks.

Note that you don't need two of them to have the trailer detected, but if you're digging around in there anyway it's good to have the little trailer flash on the dash when you indicate left and right!

[cjc_td5]

You need a Load Resistor like one of these...
LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-load-resistor-3)

I wired mine into the trailer loom in the car so I did not have to retrofit each trailer I use. It has a switch which I have to turn on to activate the resistor when I hook up a trailer with LED light.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/204873-introducing-lance-2.html#post2225314

Cheers,
Chris

[Smocky]

Yep, Grab these (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/12-volt-21-watt-led-load-resistor/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=led-truck-trailer-popup-layout). They come in a twin pack (one for each indicator).

That's what I did and hence sold my Linear Electronics box of tricks.

Note that you don't need two of them to have the trailer detected, but if you're digging around in there anyway it's good to have the little trailer flash on the dash when you indicate left and right!

:clap2: :TakeABow: :woot:

Thanks very much, that's Saturday planned.

[elkorn]

I had a 12 pin connection for my caravan as well as a couple of Anderson plugs.
I have had Andersons installed on the D4 via a voltage sensing solenoid for battery protection. I am also going to use the 12S connection. I have purchased the connectors from UK, very cheap.
I have discovered that some of the connections provide continuous power (which I find a bit risky) and that the fridge circuit is only on with the ignition. This is useful if you have need (as I do) for aux power (in my case to trigger an AES fridge). The 12S is actually quite useful.

I solved my 12 pin issue by rewiring the caravan. By the time you have the LED module and other conversions, it just seemed to be the easiest and neatest to go back to 7 pin plus andersons.

[elkorn]

I noticed that somebody reminded you to get one of these modules.

I tried with my D4 and a caravan with LED lights. The lights worked perfectly, but the car systems did not sense that the trailer was connected. This would mean that the car would not be correctly set up for the towing, transmission and engine behavior etc.

I have had a module installed in car (rather than a lead based version).
The system I selected is Linear Electronic Design

Linear Electronic Design | Home (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com)

If you have questions or want advice, the operator of this business is very helpful and has a lot of information abour Discovery's.

[Konradical]

Hey thanks,

Yeah I ended up just getting the module for the van because I really don't want to be mucking around with switches or stuff like that. I have two kids under three, so anything that makes it simpler is tops in my book.

Also regarding the plugs, I made up a bit of a connection using two round seven pin plugs to a twelve pin plug which I have cable tied to the hitch and plug the van into that. Whenever I stop for a extended period I will remove the white plug to prevent drain on the battery. This will probably stay like that until I get the duel batter set up, then I will permanently fit a 12 pin plug.

Just on the connection to LED light thing. Yes all the lights worked as they should, but all the things (rear park sense, lane departure warning, etc..) remained on. It got a little annoying the when we first towed. Lights flashing and warning buzzers when I turned sharp, but the biggest annoyance was that something the vehicle needed to be prompted to change down for a larger hill when speed was reducing.

With the module, instantly I noticed it would hold a gear for slightly longer and be more proactive in selecting the right gear for a hill. The mirrors stopped flashing at me and when I reversed, it was nice and quiet.

With my 6x4 i might just fit the load resistors as it will be far cheaper and worth less than the trailer.

Thanks to every one who replied.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using AULRO mobile app

[AndrewM]

[QUOTE=cjc_td5;2512674]You need a Load Resistor like one of these...
LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-load-resistor-3)

I wired mine into the trailer loom in the car so I did not have to retrofit each trailer I use. It has a switch which I have to turn on to activate the resistor when I hook up a trailer with LED light.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/204873-introducing-lance-2.html#post2225314


Neat job Chris. How is it going 18 months on?

Is a single resistor on only 1 indicator circuit enough - does the dash trailer indicator flash both left and right, and are the rear sensors disabled?
Also, where have you put your switch - driver seat area or down the back?

[D4206]

Hi, I've read this thread and hope that I can get some clarification from others. Have just picked up my new Disco SdV6SE, and am trying to get my head around setting it up for towing my camper. I understand the black socket on the RHS and have tested it with my camper and all seems to be ok.

On the old Toyota I had an Anderson plug at the rear for charging the batteries in the camper whilst driving. My question is do I need to run a seperate dual core cable from the starter battery to the rear of the car for the Anderson plug, or can I use the two power & earth cables already in the White plug to charge the camper batteries (joining cables 6 & 4 for power and 7 & 3 for earth)

Thanks in advance,
Bill

[Meken]

One of the pins in the white plug is rated at 30amps - is that enough? There is a switched pin & a permanent pin

[LandyAndy]

One of the pins in the white plug is rated at 30amps - is that enough? There is a switched pin & a permanent pin

BEWARE.
That has changed to 15 amps on later vehicles.
Andrew

[D4206]

One of the pins in the white plug is rated at 30amps - is that enough? There is a switched pin & a permanent pin

Hadn't noticed that one pin is switched and the other not....probably not a good idea to join them together? I assume that the 30 amp rated cable would be adequate as the current going to the camper battery wouldn't be that high?:confused:

Cheers,
Bill

[D4206]

BEWARE.
That has changed to 15 amps on later vehicles.
Andrew

Would that 15 amp cable be suitable to use as the positive in an Anderson plug for charging the camper trailer battery?

[LandyAndy]

Tim(Traxide) will help with the cable size.
15amp isnt huge to charge a large deep cycle battery,sure it will top it up on a long trip,you would also need solar/240 power to charge at camp.Running a dedicated supply via an anderson plug will allow full alternator charging.
Tims Traxide gear is very good,lots of us have it.It will also benefit the smart charging system on the D3/D4.
Im sure Tim will help with a better description,I make roads not dual battery systems:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

[D4206]

BEWARE.
That has changed to 15 amps on later vehicles.
Andrew


Tim(Traxide) will help with the cable size.
15amp isnt huge to charge a large deep cycle battery,sure it will top it up on a long trip,you would also need solar/240 power to charge at camp.Running a dedicated supply via an anderson plug will allow full alternator charging.
Tims Traxide gear is very good,lots of us have it.It will also benefit the smart charging system on the D3/D4.
Im sure Tim will help with a better description,I make roads not dual battery systems:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew



Thanks Andrew,

I've seen the traxide gear discussed on the forum & will get a kit for the second battery to be put in the engine bay, but was hoping to avoid having to run another cable for the Anderson plug at the rear if the existing cable in the White plug was adequate. I fogot to mention that I have a Ctek Dual 250 DC/DC charger in the battery bay of the camper..so the amperage going into the camper batteries is boosted (as I understand it).
Bill

[laughto]

Even if the cable was of sufficient size in the 12S plug, without modification it still would run off the main car battery, not a secondary.

[D4206]

Even if the cable was of sufficient size in the 12S plug, without modification it still would run off the main car battery, not a secondary.

Only used when driving to charge the camper trailers batteries..disconnected when camped.
Bill

[LandyAndy]

Bill I have the full Traxide kit,the wires to the anderson are much bigger than you would find in any of the vehicles wiring.
There is no reason you can setup one of Tims controlers to use the camper trailer battery as the second battery if you dont want a second under bonnet battery.Im sure Tim will be happy to advise on this.
Andrew

[Uwiki]

Hallo My Discovery 4 tdv6 2016 7/16.

The plug for the Trailer have colors : 1:green. 4:Yellow, 2:white, 3: blue, 5:red, 6:brown, 7: black.
This is quit different?

Blue is earth.....

[Nod]

Not one colour correct! Gooogle trailer wiring colour (or similar) and you will find that someone missed by a long way!

[ghackett2]

Hi everyone, this is my first post and hopefully in a thread that can help and is somewhat related. I picked up a 2013 D4 HSE a few months ago and auto electrics is not my field of expertise :( . I have two questions – Firstly, I am towing a camper trailer with a 7 pin flat plug, LED lights and manual override brakes. I understand the issue with the D4 not recognising the trailer and the threads have been very helpful with that. I have purchased a 7 pin large to 7 pin flat adaptor and I’m ok with not having load resistors at the moment as the trailer brake and indicator lights work fine.

However, the trailer tail lights do not work at all. I have connected a trailer light board with incandescent bulbs to the D4 and same thing – brake and indicators work fine but no tail lights, so it can’t be a LED issue.

I’m wondering if this is a problem with the wiring in my car’s large black plug, or if it is a common problem and I have missed something else that needs to be done?
Any advice would greatly appreciated. If I need to rewire the vehicle plug, does anyone know of a good auto electrician on the northside of Brisbane?

Secondly, when I was playing round with the plugs, I had the engine off and the headlights turned on. After 10 mins the battery (new in July 2017) was flat. It’s a 95ah AGM battery and I expected that I could get 10 mins out of it without the engine running. I’ve got the Xenon headlights, so I am wondering if they drain the battery faster or whether the battery is not functioning correctly.
Thanks

[northiam]

The 7pin round to 7pin flat adapters dont work without rewiring the round plug easy to do
Rewire round plug to suit the RH normal socket 12N

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/596.jpg

[ghackett2]

Appreciate the diagram. I'll see how I go otherwise off to the auto elec. At least you've identified the problem for me and shouldn't be too hard......

[ausriver]

Smocky

You could just wire an additional couple of small globe blinkers onto the CT.

Problem solved.


i have problem with running lights, after using a standard 7pin round-to-flat adaptor to connect my trailer to my D4. Does any one how what I can do to make it running properly?

[ghackett2]

I eventually worked out that there is a separate fuse (behind the glove box) for trailer tail / side lights. In my case, that fuse was blown and simply replacing it solved the problem and a standard round to flat adaptor worked fine. Check the manual for the fuse number. I can't recall exactly what it was named, but I think it was something like 'side lights'.

[Tombie]

I’ve been using a standard round to flat without issues

[BeeGee]

I’ve been using a standard round to flat without issues

+1

I had the same issue as the OP, Disco round plug vs my Jayco Swan Outback 12 pin flat plug.

On the weekend I rewired the Swan Outback 12 pin flat plug to a 7 pin flat plug, and ran an Anderson in parallel with a Traxide kit, and grabbed a round to 7 pin flat adaptor from Supercheap.
Took it for a spin to test and it all works perfectly including the electric brakes.