Suspension upgrade in Eastern Melbourne

[Corris110]

I am chasing up a recommended installer/workshop in Melbourne for the install of heavy duty suspension. Looking at koni with 2" lift and also honest and landy based experienced advice on anything that may be required to accommodate the lift?

[wazza77]

Glen at Roverland on Boronia rd, have sent my wheels there quite a few times and never a problem, he definitely knows Landy's inside out.
Warren.

[Corris110]

Glen at Roverland on Boronia rd, have sent my wheels there quite a few times and never a problem, he definitely knows Landy's inside out.
Warren.

Thats what I am after. 5 mins down the road! thanks wazza

[Bytemrk]

I'll back up Wazza's recommendation.

Glen has worked on my last 3 Land Rovers and is one of the very best out there....

[DieselDan]

It's a few years since I've been but I thought Roverland was on Dorset Rd in Boronia??

Other options would be Fred Smith on Havelock Rd, off Mountain Hwy, or Ritter's on Highbury Rd, Burwood.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using AULRO mobile app

[Bytemrk]

You are right it is Dorset Rd.

They have had a recent name change too....

Land Rover & Range Rover Mechanics Melbourne | Land Rover Services Melbourne (http://www.roverland.com.au/landrover-service-melbourne/) still the same team though.

[MrLandy]

TOPERFORMANCE, the distributor of Koni Shocks, is also nearby.

8 Trade Place
Vermont 3133
Victoria Australia
toper@toperformance.com.au
03 9873 1722

[wazza77]

It's a few years since I've been but I thought Roverland was on Dorset Rd in Boronia??

Other options would be Fred Smith on Havelock Rd, off Mountain Hwy, or Ritter's on Highbury Rd, Burwood.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using AULRO mobile app
Yep, my mistake. Thanks for picking that up 👍

[DieselDan]

No worries, I was beginning to question it myself...:D

Sent from my Nexus 5X using AULRO mobile app

[DieselDan]

You are right it is Dorset Rd.

They have had a recent name change too....

Land Rover & Range Rover Mechanics Melbourne | Land Rover Services Melbourne (http://www.roverland.com.au/landrover-service-melbourne/) still the same team though.

Ooh very flash!
Kind of reminds me that I must pay them a visit, my disco is in need of a bit of TLC!

Sent from my Nexus 5X using AULRO mobile app

[Corris110]

Thanks Guys for all your replies. Would anyone recommend adding double-cardan shaft or higher quiality sway bars etc? I don't want to be going over hte top, but I would like a long term quality suspension set up as I will use it 100% for work and touring.

[DieselDan]

The angle that the Puma engine/trans/transfer case is installed at means the front propshaft is at about the limits of it's operating angle, so from what I understand from others on here who have lifted a Puma is that the double cardan shaft is a necessity.
Dunno about the anti-roll bars, I would have thought the originals would be perfectly OK.

[Corris110]

Thanks for your advice Dan, very helpful

So an update. As I am new to landys I was open to hearing what the 'experts' had to tell me about a suspension upgrade.

After sending the same email to four reputable an recommended installers in melbourne stating I was after a supply and install quote on a 2'' lift with koni raids and a quality spring. I required this for heavy duty work and play. I also added that it was suggested I add a front tailshaft/Double cardan joint and I was open to feedback on anything additional I may require as I was planning on keeping this car for a long time I did not want to sacrifice in ride quality or longevity of the product.

These were the results.

Dealer 1. Sent email. no response. dropped into the shop and was met with 'We will install whatever you want'. no advice and just told to send an email to them and we will reply with a quote as they dont do it in the shop?

Dealer 2. no response after two emails.

Dealer 3. recommends not doing a 2'' lift as the ride will be so bad I will want to remove the lift and there is not another way of improving the ride on the 2''. recommended a 1'' lift after I asked what my other options were. Dealer did seem very busy.

Dealer 4. Very helpful over many emails identified an ideal set up and can do a 2'' lift with what I required and with the addition of double cardan shaft, transfer case flange and front castor correction arm and bushes the ride will be better than factory.

Disappointing but it seems I have reached the outcome I was after. Does this setup sound what I was after?







The angle that the Puma engine/trans/transfer case is installed at means the front propshaft is at about the limits of it's operating angle, so from what I understand from others on here who have lifted a Puma is that the double cardan shaft is a necessity.
Dunno about the anti-roll bars, I would have thought the originals would be perfectly OK.

[El Rey]

These were the results.

Dealer 4. Very helpful over many emails identified an ideal set up and can do a 2'' lift with what I required and with the addition of double cardan shaft, transfer case flange and front castor correction arm and bushes the ride will be better than factory.

Disappointing but it seems I have reached the outcome I was after. Does this setup sound what I was after?

Do you mind sharing who the helpful shop/dealer is?

[MrLandy]

I would just put the Koni's straight in. Dont change the geometry. It's perfect as is IMO.

[Corris110]

Do you mind sharing who the helpful shop/dealer is?
It was at avm. I welcome anyone else's opinions on lift versus just shocks etc. I realise landys dont really require a lift and i also don't want to sacrifice reliability and ride quality

[Corris110]

Maybe I should start a poll?
To lift or not to lift?

[El Rey]

It was at avm. I welcome anyone else's opinions on lift versus just shocks etc. I realise landys dont really require a lift and i also don't want to sacrifice reliability and ride quality

What do you want to do?

If you want to do some hard core offroading and fording of rivers then it could be worth it. For example Stefan at alloffroad has his 110 lifted because he does stuff like you see in these clips:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC825uQNChjLwDQC7B3yZdoQ/videos

[Corris110]

What do you want to do?

If you want to do some hard core offroading and fording of rivers then it could be worth it. For example Stefan at alloffroad has his 110 lifted because he does stuff like you see in these clips:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC825uQNChjLwDQC7B3yZdoQ/videos
Would definitely like the capability of doing some heavy 4wding if required. I have a few 70 series mates who have given me heaps and im keen to have the chance to winch one of them out! Haha It will be used 80% work and carrying constant loads, 15% touring and 5% 4wding. Avm have assured me the ride wont be compromised if I lift 2''. So then it would just be other potential issues such as existing vehicle height plus rack plus lift?

[MrLandy]

Would definitely like the capability of doing some heavy 4wding if required. I have a few 70 series mates who have given me heaps and im keen to have the chance to winch one of them out! Haha It will be used 80% work and carrying constant loads, 15% touring and 5% 4wding. Avm have assured me the ride wont be compromised if I lift 2''. So then it would just be other potential issues such as existing vehicle height plus rack plus lift?

My 98 Deefer came with 50mm lifted springs. Forgotten how many uni joints I've had to replace. Other than that it's been fine on and off road for years but now that I mainly drive my 14 Puma which is on standard height springs, I realise how much more stable (lower centre of gravity), better braking, less body roll there is. Capability difference is negligible IMO. I wouldn't trade that perfect Defender geometry from factory for 5% time trying to impress your mates. They are just goading you because it's the done thing, believe me it gets worse too the further north you go in this great country! Now I just smile the Defender owners knowing smile. When I get around to it I'll be returning my classic 98 to original springs too.

[Pickles2]

It was at avm. I welcome anyone else's opinions on lift versus just shocks etc. I realise landys dont really require a lift and i also don't want to sacrifice reliability and ride quality
"AVM"?...Do you mean "AMV"?
Pickles.

[Black 110]

I would just put the Koni's straight in. Dont change the geometry. It's perfect as is IMO.

+1

I looked into this a few times, and the most reliable setup seems to be Koni Raid shocks, standard geometry and 33" tyres (255/85x16 if on standard alloys).

And if you end up with a steel bull bar you will need to upgrade the front springs - the genuine LR 130 Springs (which are HD) bolt straight in and are perfect IMO.

The build I have focused on with my 110 is to keep it as reliable as possible.

If it's going to be a daily driver, I'd probably stay away from the 2" lift.

[MrLandy]

+1

I looked into this a few times, and the most reliable setup seems to be Koni Raid shocks, standard geometry and 33" tyres (255/85x16 if on standard alloys).

And if you end up with a steel bull bar you will need to upgrade the front springs - the genuine LR 130 Springs (which are HD) bolt straight in and are perfect IMO.

The build I have focused on with my 110 is to keep it as reliable as possible.

If it's going to be a daily driver, I'd probably stay away from the 2" lift.

Hey B110, do you have bullbar only, no winch? I've been in two minds about going to HD fronts with just a bullbar.

I'm happy with standard 235/85R16 tyres. Thinking of going Michelin XZL 7.50R16 next

[jackdef90]

unless you want to put 35s on it you don't really need a lift unless your springs are sagging already, unless of course you just want it to look cooler which I can understand.
if you want it to be **** hot off-road take the sway bars off, I've taken them off on my 90 and its a lot better off-road, a lot more flex and just feels more planted. On road it does roll a bit more on corners but it's nothing to worry about, I've tried the lane change test on the freeway and all was well, I didn't die and didn't roll over as some people would have you believe.

[AndyG]

unless you want to put 35s on it you don't really need a lift unless your springs are sagging already, unless of course you just want it to look cooler which I can understand.
if you want it to be **** hot off-road take the sway bars off, I've taken them off on my 90 and its a lot better off-road, a lot more flex and just feels more planted. On road it does roll a bit more on corners but it's nothing to worry about, I've tried the lane change test on the freeway and all was well, I didn't die and didn't roll over as some people would have you believe.

I wonder what happens in an insurance claim with part o the suspension missing.
Me, looking at 130 Springs front and rear, as he's grown a bit fat. &BILSTEIN B6 OFFROAD if I can find the right p/n

[MrLandy]

I wonder what happens in an insurance claim with part o the suspension missing.
Me, looking at 130 Springs front and rear, as he's grown a bit fat. &BILSTEIN B6 OFFROAD if I can find the right p/n

Yeah I like Bilstein too, have them on 98 Landy. Difficult choice btw Bilstein and Koni. Do you have a winch Andy?

[Black 110]

Hey B110, do you have bullbar only, no winch? I've been in two minds about going to HD fronts with just a bullbar.

I'm happy with standard 235/85R16 tyres. Thinking of going Michelin XZL 7.50R16 next

Hey mate, I'm running and ARB Deluxe bull bar, no winch. Mind you when the bar was fitted I ended up with around 15mm of sag in the front end, hence the HD front springs.
Can't recommend them enough, doesn't sacrifice comfort that I can notice anyway.
And besides that, looks even now and the clearance on the front off-road is where it should be.
I'm going the 255/85x16 BFGs shortly when the Wrangler MTs are done. Extra lift from the tyres will improve off-road ability and will correct the speedo reading too.

[jackdef90]

I wonder what happens in an insurance claim with part o the suspension missing.
Me, looking at 130 Springs front and rear, as he's grown a bit fat. &BILSTEIN B6 OFFROAD if I can find the right p/n

What happens when you lift a 4x4? The sway bars don't go back on because they don't fit.
Anyone that does a lot of off-roading would be stupid not remove the sway bars.

[jimr1]

What happens when you lift a 4x4? The sway bars don't go back on because they don't fit.
Anyone that does a lot of off-roading would be stupid not remove the sway bars.
Hi this is a good post , I have an old 110 county , with 2" lift , no sway bars . I have drove it all over the Vic high country , also through the outback , towing a van . Never any problems , I can tell about my 110 extreme , 2" lift on King springs , and Koni Shocks , bit hard on the rear ! Comes good with a van , or some weight in the back also no sway bars . The 110 Puma does have them , I haven't done any real off roading in this yet . Be interesting to see how it goes . Also it's still on standard springs and shocks . I have an ARB bar new shape , my winch doesn't fit , that's another story , but the front is down a bit !!..Jim :)

[AndyG]

Yeah I like Bilstein too, have them on 98 Landy. Difficult choice btw Bilstein and Koni. Do you have a winch Andy?
Yep, Apt Bullbar, winch with synthetic, steering guard, diff guards, drawers, fuel tank, water tank, it all adds up, 2500 kg near empty,, I should have gone HD ex factory

[AndyG]

What happens when you lift a 4x4? The sway bars don't go back on because they don't fit.
Anyone that does a lot of off-roading would be stupid not remove the sway bars.

My query was from the insurance / public liability angle, not is operability.

[jackdef90]

My query was from the insurance / public liability angle, not is operability.

What I was getting was that it would be the same as if you went and had your suspension modified, they would not refit the sway bars if they raised the spring height. Lifting suspension isn't illegal, and insurance covers you with mods as long as they know about them.
I'm pretty sure even some of the post 2007 defenders came out with no sway bars when ordered with certain specs. So if it's an option from factory???
I'm no lawyer so don't take my info as gospel, but I'm happy to leave them off my defer.

[1nando]

Regarding puma lift and tyre size:

255/85/16 fitts on zero offset rims with no issues at all. No lift needed. Problem is you are limited to maxxis 762, bfg km2 and cooper st maxx. The first two are muddys and the latter is a 50/50 AT.

285/75/16 seems to be hit and miss. Some say it does not rub and others claim it does. These require a 8 inch wide rim and a zero offset as a minimum.

What im interested in and might sound a bit silly to some but id like to know; is it possible to run something that lifts the vehicle 15mm to 20mm allowing the 285/75/16 to fit easier? The reason i ask is that the bfg km2 although a very good tyre are really loud on a puma and are not the best toruing option. The idea if easily fitting a more common 285/75/16 tyre (33 inch tyre) with a lot more options is very appealing both financially and practically

[Babs]

I would have automatically chosen Bilsteins as a shock choice but now after looking at the Koni Raids in in two minds.

What are the standard shocks on the Defender Puma?

Frequenting my farm more often and have about 25 mins of dirt road, cattle grid and water crossings and have found the standards rattle the ****e out of the Defender, I put this down to highway pressure tyres (40 psi) but now I'm thinking a shock upgrade might be worthwhile.

No interest at all in raising it, even if it has sagged from the steel Bullbar, it still has more clearance than any other brand vehicle that has had a 2" lift

What are the thoughts on the standard shocks?

And are the Koni Raid the best solution for the Defenders???

I'm looking forward to read feedback✅

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Corris110]

I am very pleased i started this thread.... but it has not made my decision 'to lift or not to lift' any easier at all. Are we happy to say that if done well, sway bar removed, a 2'' lift might not be necessary for a landy but looks good and ride is not compromised. Also i found 3 of 4 dealers recommended king springs. Should I be asking for HD 130 springs instead?

1nando: one of the dealers I have dealt with recommended a 1'' lift as the vehicle can remain standard.

[1nando]

I am very pleased i started this thread.... but it has not made my decision 'to lift or not to lift' any easier at all. Are we happy to say that if done well, sway bar removed, a 2'' lift might not be necessary for a landy but looks good and ride is not compromised. Also i found 3 of 4 dealers recommended king springs. Should I be asking for HD 130 springs instead?

1nando: one of the dealers I have dealt with recommended a 1'' lift as the vehicle can remain standard.

Ive been told the same thing. People will probably think what im about to say is overkill.....but i would still use a double cardan front prop just in case. More than likely not necessary but considering how much ive spent on my car whats another 700 dollars...

As to your lift or not to lift:

my recommendation is why is it so important for you to lift? What do you want out of your truck?
My reason is I want to fit a common size tyre in a 33 inch diameter that gives me more options without potentially rubbing, 255s are good but noisy, only 3 tyres to choose from.
A one inch lift meets my criteria and should not have and adverse effects.
When you think abou it: going to a 33 inch tyre and a 1 inch suspension lift you've already lifted your car 37.5mm (12.5mm on the axel and 25mm on the car) which is almst 2 inches anyway. Considering the standard clearance this should be plenty.

[Corris110]

Thats exactly on the money. I dont want mega clearance and try and look like a patrol with 37s and a 5'' lift. Just I would like a better quality set up from the start, reliability, and the flexibility to get 33's etc in the future without needing to change my set up again

[MrLandy]

Why bother with a 1" beesdick lift?!?! That wont impress your mates. Seriously?

Just get some Koni's or Bilies and be done with it.

Babs, I went Koni Raids over Bilies simply because of the OS size of the tubes, more stable, solid. But it was a tough decision because I think Bilies are a little more compliant on road. Having said that, as soon as I hit corrugations I know exactly why I chose Koni...awesome.

[1nando]

Why bother with a 1" beesdick lift?!?! That wont impress your mates. Seriously?

Just get some Koni's or Bilies and be done with it.

Babs, I went Koni Raids over Bilies simply because of the OS size of the tubes, more stable, solid. But it was a tough decision because I think Bilies are a little more compliant on road. Having said that, as soon as I hit corrugations I know exactly why I chose Koni...awesome.

I understand your logic but the puma geometry requires a lot of money to do a 2 inch lift correctly.
I just want to fit 285/75/16 with no rubbing.
Im over 255 muddies. Wish there was more options in this size but there isnt

[Corris110]

Why bother with a 1" beesdick lift?!?! That wont impress your mates. Seriously?

Just get some Koni's or Bilies and be done with it.

Babs, I went Koni Raids over Bilies simply because of the OS size of the tubes, more stable, solid. But it was a tough decision because I think Bilies are a little more compliant on road. Having said that, as soon as I hit corrugations I know exactly why I chose Koni...awesome.
I hear you MrLandy and it doesn't seem a lot but 1'' is all a landys clearance is more than a current model hilux and most other 'soft' roaders. And seeing everyone says how superior the landys clearance is over other vehicles... a simple 1'' lift seems a significant amount to retain a solid reliable setup.
*still undecided*

[Corris110]

Although we are just talking body clearance

[MrLandy]

My logic is NO LIFT NEEDED.

Defender has way more articulation at both ends than Hilux or any other ute with leaf springs and wishbones. There's no comparison. You don't need a lift unles your truck is for Boulder hopping 95% and then you would want much more than 2".

If your lift is for cosmetic reasons or to impress your mates plenty of places will take your money.

[Babs]

Why bother with a 1" beesdick lift?!?! That wont impress your mates. Seriously? Just get some Koni's or Bilies and be done with it. Babs, I went Koni Raids over Bilies simply because of the OS size of the tubes, more stable, solid. But it was a tough decision because I think Bilies are a little more compliant on road. Having said that, as soon as I hit corrugations I know exactly why I chose Koni...awesome.

Thanks MrLandy, that's exactly the feedback I'm looking for. Very reassuring ✅
I'm going to give the Koni's a go. Cheers.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Babs]

My logic is NO LIFT NEEDED. Defender has way more articulation at both ends than Hilux or any other ute with leaf springs and wishbones. There's no comparison. You don't need a lift unles your truck is for Boulder hopping 95% and then you would want much more than 2". If your lift is for cosmetic reasons or to impress your mates plenty of places will take your money.

I must say I agree.

We buys these trucks for what they are capable of doing "Straight Outa Showroom"

What other 4by's comes with 32" tyres standard?

All the other guys apart from Patrols, jump from 30"31" up to 32" tyres. We got them already and we want more. We always want more ha ha ha

The clearance and dynamics of the Deefers are phenomenal, why change something that ain't broke? Better quality Shocks are understandable.

To each their own, doing all that work on lifting and bigger tyres I doubt you are going to go much further over a standard Deefer. Your better off putting the money towards a TrueTrac LSD.

Ha ha ha God knows how much my mate has spent on his Ranger, he put the Fox Racing Remote Canister and big lift in and he has no better wheel travel. There is a section on my farm he lifts the wheels up in the air on all sorts of angles and I go over it like an urban speed hump.

A lot of guys like the 33"tyres on here but I would confidently say the majority of Deefer owners are happy with standard height tyres and springs.

My winch (yet to fit) is for emergencies, my theory is, if it looks like I have to winch to get up there or past there I ain't going!

I bet a standard suspension and tyre set up with a TrueTrac LSD will go further than a 2" lifted 33" tyre modification. This is open for debate ha ha ha

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[RVR110]

Hi Corris110,

Reasons not to get a lift:

You've got a brand new defender and therefore you have several years of warranty.
In another thread you mentioned that you use the car for work, so it sounds like a daily driver. This is another reason to not get a lift.
You mentioned one objective of the lift would be to fit 33's. 33's (255/85/16) can be fitted without a lift.
If your goal is to improve capability then I'd prioritise a set of sliders, a HD steering track rod, a steering guard, diff guards, HD trailing arms, 33's and eLockers all ahead of a lift.
The factory shocks are actually pretty good and most importantly they're well tuned to the rest of the car (IMO at least). Replacing them with Koni's or Bilsteins won't provide enough (if any) bang for the buck.


If you've put a bullbar and winch on then you may suffer from a bit of sag at the front due to the extra weight. To fix this, get your dealer to replace your front springs with the genuine HD Land Rover Springs. They're cheap (about $100) and they won't cause issues with the front prop shaft.

Just my opinion. Others may disagree.

[MrLandy]

Hi Corris110,

Reasons not to get a lift:

You've got a brand new defender and therefore you have several years of warranty.
In another thread you mentioned that you use the car for work, so it sounds like a daily driver. This is another reason to not get a lift.
You mentioned one objective of the lift would be to fit 33's. 33's (255/85/16) can be fitted without a lift.
If your goal is to improve capability then I'd prioritise a set of sliders, a HD steering track rod, a steering guard, diff guards, HD trailing arms, 33's and eLockers all ahead of a lift.
The factory shocks are actually pretty good and most importantly they're well tuned to the rest of the car (IMO at least). Replacing them with Koni's or Bilsteins won't provide enough (if any) bang for the buck.
unless you use your Defender on rough/corrugated roads a lot - original shocks won't handle it.

If you've put a bullbar and winch on then you may suffer from a bit of sag at the front due to the extra weight. To fix this, get your dealer to replace your front springs with the genuine HD Land Rover Springs. They're cheap (about $100) and they won't cause issues with the front prop shaft.

Just my opinion. Others may disagree.

Well said RVR110.

[Babs]

Hi Corris110, Reasons not to get a lift: You've got a brand new defender and therefore you have several years of warranty. In another thread you mentioned that you use the car for work, so it sounds like a daily driver. This is another reason to not get a lift. You mentioned one objective of the lift would be to fit 33's. 33's (255/85/16) can be fitted without a lift. If your goal is to improve capability then I'd prioritise a set of sliders, a HD steering track rod, a steering guard, diff guards, HD trailing arms, 33's and eLockers all ahead of a lift. The factory shocks are actually pretty good and most importantly they're well tuned to the rest of the car (IMO at least). Replacing them with Koni's or Bilsteins won't provide enough (if any) bang for the buck. If you've put a bullbar and winch on then you may suffer from a bit of sag at the front due to the extra weight. To fix this, get your dealer to replace your front springs with the genuine HD Land Rover Springs. They're cheap (about $100) and they won't cause issues with the front prop shaft. Just my opinion. Others may disagree.


Agree!

Why don't you think changing shocks would improve ride quality?

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Black 110]

Thats exactly on the money. I dont want mega clearance and try and look like a patrol with 37s and a 5'' lift. Just I would like a better quality set up from the start, reliability, and the flexibility to get 33's etc in the future without needing to change my set up again

If you are after reliability, don't lift it. Simple. You can get 33" tyres under the defender with the right offset rims (if you want to go for 285s) without the lift.
Spend the money on Konis and wheels with the correct offset instead.
I've been told by a couple of LR Independents here in SA that the Double Cardan joints are subject to failure, and when they do, they are like a hand grenade and leave gaping holes in your drivetrain where there shouldn't be. I'm not keen to find out if they are right or wrong...

[Black 110]

Hi Corris110,

Reasons not to get a lift:

You've got a brand new defender and therefore you have several years of warranty.
In another thread you mentioned that you use the car for work, so it sounds like a daily driver. This is another reason to not get a lift.
You mentioned one objective of the lift would be to fit 33's. 33's (255/85/16) can be fitted without a lift.
If your goal is to improve capability then I'd prioritise a set of sliders, a HD steering track rod, a steering guard, diff guards, HD trailing arms, 33's and eLockers all ahead of a lift.
The factory shocks are actually pretty good and most importantly they're well tuned to the rest of the car (IMO at least). Replacing them with Koni's or Bilsteins won't provide enough (if any) bang for the buck.

If you've put a bullbar and winch on then you may suffer from a bit of sag at the front due to the extra weight. To fix this, get your dealer to replace your front springs with the genuine HD Land Rover Springs. They're cheap (about $100) and they won't cause issues with the front prop shaft.

Just my opinion. Others may disagree.

Yup, I agree with the majority of this...except over sustained corrugations (I'm talking out bush where there are chopped out tracks for kilometres), the standard shocks are just not up to it...

[MrLandy]

Yup, I agree with the majority of this...except over sustained corrugations (I'm talking out bush where there are chopped out tracks for kilometres), the standard shocks are just not up to it...

Exactly. For sustained travel on bush roads upgrade the shocks. That's it.

235/85R16 tyres are fine too IMO. Less stress on swivels, steering, etc.

[AndyG]

Whilst I have an emotional lean towards Bilstein, most threads endorse the Koni Raids for a heavily laden Defender on rough tracks.

My future plans, Ashcroft Lsd * 3, Ashcroft adapter shaft between gear box and transfer case, flanges, I/C and Bas 170 hp tune, and 130 Springs, that should keep me moving

[MrLandy]

Whilst I have an emotional lean towards Bilstein, most threads endorse the Koni Raids for a heavily laden Defender on rough tracks.

My future plans, Ashcroft Lsd * 3, Ashcroft adapter shaft between gear box and transfer case, flanges, I/C and Bas 170 hp tune, and 130 Springs, that should keep me moving

Sounds perfect AG. ...after warranty or before?

Koni Raids are definitely the best shocks for rough roads IMO. But as mentioned I think there is a slight trade off on-road as the initial bump rate feels firmer than Bilstein.

[Babs]

Will the Koni Raids eliminate some of the body roll on road?

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[AndyG]

After warranty, already had the main seal go and now the diff is leaking, so don't want to give them wriggle room,