First Troubles with Ex-Army Land Rover

[Toby Gregory]

Good Morning all; my name is Toby and I've recently acquired an Army Disposal Land Rover Perentie 110 4x4 from Australian Frontline Machinery. It's a 1991 model with the 4L Isuzu engine. I bought it in September of last year, and after driving it home from Sydney without issue, I've had no troubles with it since until now (bar having to change the tyres to tubeless to stop them from constantly going down.)

The issue I have relates to starting the Landy. Without anything in the way of warning, I walked out one day to start her up, and when I turned on the ignition switch, I got the usual "whir" sound and all the gauges and dash lights powered up, but upon turning over the ignition, all I get is a click and no starting.

I'm not particularly mechanical or electronically skilled, but I've done a few little things to try to assess what could be wrong. Having the headlights on with the ignition turned on doesn't immediately drain the battery, and using a pair of diodes to short out the two connections between the starter motor solenoid and the starter motor itself with the ignition switch turned off results in the starter motor still turning over, so it doesn't seem to be the starter motor. Having push started it a few times, the battery charges while driving, so the alternator doesn't seem to be having trouble.

I checked the fuses to see if i'd blown one, and oddly, taking them out and putting them back in sometimes results in the engine starting quite easily. If I leave it alone for a little while though, the same problem comes back. As I said, I'm not very mechanical, so I don't really know what I'm doing or where to go from here bar the local mechanic or an auto electrician, but I thought I'd consult the collective wisdom of this forum first before I start lashing out cash.

I'll be very grateful for your help.

[Xtreme]

Check operation of the fuel cut off.
I'm not sure if the Military ones are the same but I had a similar problem with my Isuzu County years ago. The fuel cutoff was inside a plastic bag top of firewall, driver's side. Moisture and dust made it's way in and required a cleanout and reseal.

[Toby Gregory]

Good Afternoon Xtreme,

I can't really find anything equating to that in the workshop manual. There is a grey plastic bag under the hose leading to the air cleaner, but it doesn't look like it's supposed to come off, nor do I have anything to replace it with right now, so I'm loath to tamper with it. Additionally, a mate of mine who's an Army mechanic has never heard of that problem with Land Rovers.

Anyone else got any ideas?

[Phil B]

The whir sound you hear is the fuel cut off- sounds like it's working
It could be the start relay which is one of the two behind the brake booster attached to the fire wall
Take one out at a time , clean the contacts and put them back on
If she still won't crank then suspect the starter solenoid, attached to the starter motor, passenger side under the bonnet behind the exhaust
Check the connections onto the starter (one smaller wire onto the solenoid and a large one onto the starter
Be careful, the large red cable is live
If you need to remove the starter disconnect the battery first
If the connections are OK suspect the solenoid which means removing the starter
Not a difficult job but depends on how well you can use spanners
Good luck

[Mick_Marsh]

Do you have a battery guard fitted? Mine played up.
If you do, try bypassing the isolation solenoid.

[JDNSW]

The symptoms sound to me, if I read you correctly, that everything sounds normal except the starter is not turning, although the starter solenoid is clicking.

This suggests two possibilities. The first is a bad earth connection, probably engine to chassis, but could be battery to chassis. Could be a faulty battery connection or a faulty battery - if this is the case, try the starter with headlights on, and in this case the lights will become very dim or go out when you operate the starter.

The second possibility is a starter fault, almost certainly the solenoid contacts. Any competent auto electrician could diagnose this and repair it.

John