View Full Version : Leaking Fuel Block/Regulator
QT31415
19th January 2016, 03:16 PM
Hi all,
I have what i believe to be a common issue, a leaking fuel block, on my 06 TD5. The leak appears to be coming from between the block and the gasket.
I see that there are people who sell a new FPR with o rings and a gasket, and some people buy a whole new fuel block and replace it entirely.
The difference in cost is $50 Vs. $300
How can i tell if it is the FPR or the block itself?
I have also been told that even if i replace the FPR, the block will eventually start to leak also.
Many thanks
Kieran
Blknight.aus
19th January 2016, 07:15 PM
theres 2 common leaks.
the first is from the gasket that mounts it to the head.
the second is from the diaphragm on the regualtor, both are cheap and easy to fix.
the least common leak is from one of the seals for the pipe fittings.
however sometimes the block it self will have corroded, eroded or otherwise deformed/failed.
on the back of the regulator is what looks like a small metal button, if after meticulously cleaning the whole regulator area, drying it (use brake cleaner and compressed air for the final clean) the leak is coming from the small hole in the button or from around the button then its most likely just the FPR part of the assembly and you can get away with the $50 kit. if its coming from the between the block and the gasket then it might just be the mounting bolts loose and you still need the cheap kit for the gasket unless you can get just the gasket.
I havent been able to easily pick a damaged block (that wasnt physically abused by muppet spannering in the area and dumb ass engine slinging) until its off.
If you can afford to have the vehicle off the road strip it out, inspect it all and then replace whats needed. IF you cant find a good parts supplier who will "lend" you both and then let you pay for what you need and then send back what you didnt. but that only works out in your favor if you only need the FPR and gaskets if you need the whole thing you generally loose out on the postage. 
Dont forget that the whole block should come with the hoses as well so if you've any sign of failure on the piping it might just be worth doing the full replacement as a peace of mind thing as you will be disturbing them to get in and do the repair.
manofaus
19th January 2016, 07:20 PM
Fuel leak or oil leak. I thought that i had an oil leak from that area and it turned out to be the rocker gasket. Because of the shape of the top of the head it was running down from a leak at the back near the cam hole.
QT31415
19th January 2016, 07:51 PM
Definitely a diesel leak ManofAus.
Thank you for your reply Dave, it was very informative. The car is approaching 100k km, and is well looked after, so i can see the block being corroded. As it appears to be coming from between the block and engine it would seem like a good place to start would be with the gasket. THe gaskets from RoverParts are about $10, so it is worth a shot before spending the money on a new FRP or fuel block.
Blknight.aus
19th January 2016, 08:16 PM
get it from roverlord...
QT31415
19th January 2016, 08:24 PM
get it from roverlord...
I can see that they sell the whole fuel blocks, which are a bit pricey, but i couldn't see the FPR or gaskets. I will email them.
DazzaTD5
20th January 2016, 10:13 AM
yes to about everything you have said...
*Its common on the TD5, relative though, its done prolly 150K plus km's?
*Some have had success replacing the valve.
*Yes the metal gasket can fail between the head and the regulator block.
*The fittings on the fuel hoses can also leak.
*There are two versions of the metal gasket, from memory the later version will fit both early and later type blocks.
Due to the above possibilities as a repairer I replace the complete assembly. 
*If replacing the complete assembly, in this instance, Ive only had long term success using genuine.
Regards
Daz
QT31415
20th January 2016, 02:39 PM
yes to about everything you have said...
*Its common on the TD5, relative though, its done prolly 150K plus km's?
*Some have had success replacing the valve.
*Yes the metal gasket can fail between the head and the regulator block.
*The fittings on the fuel hoses can also leak.
*There are two versions of the metal gasket, from memory the later version will fit both early and later type blocks.
Due to the above possibilities as a repairer I replace the complete assembly. 
*If replacing the complete assembly, in this instance, Ive only had long term success using genuine.
Regards
Daz
Car has 97000km on it 
I assume as a repairer it is labour that makes it better value to replace the whole unit?
I will try replacing the gasket, and have a look at the block whilst i am at it. Then take it from there.
bsperka
20th January 2016, 05:45 PM
yes to about everything you have said...
*Its common on the TD5, relative though, its done prolly 150K plus km's?
*Some have had success replacing the valve.
*Yes the metal gasket can fail between the head and the regulator block.
*The fittings on the fuel hoses can also leak.
*There are two versions of the metal gasket, from memory the later version will fit both early and later type blocks.
Due to the above possibilities as a repairer I replace the complete assembly. 
*If replacing the complete assembly, in this instance, Ive only had long term success using genuine.
Regards
Daz
With age the hose also gets brittle and leaks around crimps. Mine snapped when removing it.
Blknight.aus
20th January 2016, 06:16 PM
With age the hose also gets brittle and leaks around crimps. Mine snapped when removing it.
this is sort of the main reason why I just go the outright replacement replacing the whole block replaces all the other small issue parts that can fail during the repair or shortly after.
very generally..
if a FPR has made it to ~100K Km I will usually recommend a full replacement but wont fight the customer if they want otherwise I just wont guarantee the overall repair.
if its over 150K Km I wont accept a parts only job but if someone wants me to "keep an eye" on them while they borrow my tools to do a gasket only job I'll let that happen.
DazzaTD5
20th January 2016, 07:02 PM
Car has 97000km on it 
I assume as a repairer it is labour that makes it better value to replace the whole unit?
It has a lot to do with customer satisfaction.... as in while a customer may grumble at the expense of a complete unit, they grumble far more when they have to bring it back a second, third time to replace each little bit that eventually will fail.
100K is a reasonable life span...
Regards
Daz
Blknight.aus
20th January 2016, 08:26 PM
It has a lot to do with customer satisfaction.... as in while a customer may grumble at the expense of a complete unit, they grumble far more when they have to bring it back a second, third time to replace each little bit that eventually will fail.
100K is a reasonable life span...
Regards
Daz
And that would be the actual main reason.
I did not get to be The Fat Lazy Mechanic because I like doing the same thing over and over again. I hear that there are places full of wierdos who like to do that on machines for hours on end every other day and the machines dont look or work any different from when they started and everything is exactly where it was when they started.
But hey, if you want to pay for me to do that kind of stuff on your car... 
:)
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