Multiple clunks on takeoff - not the diff

[blackapache]

Guys, I'm getting multiple clunks on takeoff every now and then, my backlash is pretty bad too.

I've checked diffs, props, uni's etc all bushes replaced a few months back with super-pro, new a-frame from MR Auto.

I spoke to Rick130 and he suggested checking the a frame bolts which I'm about to do - though MR said nothing about them after they did the ball joint.

I'll check rear suspension eye rubbers too.

Anyone got any other likely culprits. It's not the handbrake. It got worse after pulling the rear prop and reinstalling it. Almost sounds like prop binding... as I pull away from start it will do three or four noises then its fine till the next time i drive it. Not a sharp sound or metallic more of a groaning like a dragging handbrake. Its rhythmical too - could it be the prop binding? I have 33's and 2 lift.

If anyone's got anything worth checking I'm all ears.

cheers guys

[tangus89]

Hey mate

The main clunk i had taking off was in the A-frame bolts which were rusted and loose in the bushes.

The drive line backlash was mainly my drive flanges which were so worn the internal splines were not far off letting the axle just spin freely. new ones all round and there's barely any slop.

cheers

[MrLandy]

Sounds like driveline binding somewhere. My old Tdi came with a 2" lift when I bought it and as a consequence he often has clunky uni joints, they don't seem to like the extra angle surprise surprise. So it wouldn't surprise me if other components were groaning for the same reason.

I'm about to return Tdi Landy to standard height for his latter years.

[blackapache]

It had TF HD flanges on front when I bought it and MR Auto did a set on the rear when they converted me to oiled bearings at the same time as doing the bushes and a frame. The binding is new. The clunking is new too. Started after the guys put in their adjustable a frame joint.

Previous to this I had no clunking and no binding.

Might check the prop again - was my old man who pulled it for me while I was doing the harmonic balancer - all the unis were tight and no movement.

Maybe the new a frame joint has put the stress on the bolts but i thought MR Auto woulda mentioned if the bolts were flogged out.

[dromader driver]

when checking the prop shafts ensure the grease is getting into each of the bearing cups. sometimes it takes a bit of manipulation.

[PAT303]

Sounds like a failing uni,get a pinch bar or similar and give them a good rip,does it do it worse when your on throttle and then off?,check the rear one first. Pat

[AlecW]

Could be the splines on the output shaft of the gearbox being worn, I had a case of that. Was a ugly clunking/jerking on take off now and again...

[PAT303]

I've only seen that on the pre '96 R380's/LT85's etc,after '96 the output gear was changed with a longer spline boss and cross feed lube holes. Pat

[AlecW]

Yeah mine is a 94 and previous owner must have not liked it. Makes sense

[PAT303]

Yeah mine is a 94 and previous owner must have not liked it. Makes sense

Take the cover off and look to see if the output gear has holes in the boss,if it does your good,if it doesn't your up for more $$$$. Pat

[AlecW]

Take the cover off and look to see if the output gear has holes in the boss,if it does your good,if it doesn't your up for more $$$$. Pat

Had gbox replaced last year, all good now 😢

[PAT303]

Sweet. Pat

[blackapache]

Hey mate

The main clunk i had taking off was in the A-frame bolts which were rusted and loose in the bushes.

The drive line backlash was mainly my drive flanges which were so worn the internal splines were not far off letting the axle just spin freely. new ones all round and there's barely any slop.

cheers

Sweet, I had a lok at the whole A frame assembly tonight after work. I see there are the two main bolts as fulcrum on the balljoint tongue itself these are what everyone seems to say get worn out?

The rest of the A frame still has fresh lube on it from where the superpro were installed not too long ago but what about the two plates that attach the a frame arms to chassis? do these need attention or are they normally pretty good?

It seems that it's the using the bolts as fulcrum that is the design weakness causing the wear on the bolts? is that whats happening here?

I know A frames can be a hassle but I'm thinking if I do one bolt in and out at a time I shouldn't even need to jack the chassis or diffs etc? anyone correct me if I'm wrong here please:confused:

[PAT303]

The ball joint flogs out not the bolts,go over all the bolts and give them a nip to make sure. Pat

[blackapache]

not fulcrum.. clevis - it's been a long day in the hot sun :angel:

[rick130]

Sweet, I had a lok at the whole A frame assembly tonight after work. I see there are the two main bolts as fulcrum on the balljoint tongue itself these are what everyone seems to say get worn out?



Naa, it's the big 19mm bolts in the clevises at the chassis end that can flog out.
The bolts wear and the bush inner sleeve wears and voila ! we have a big clunk, yet the rubber itself is fine.

I went Super Pro there too, and as the inner sleeves were a little loose on the bolt shanks I wrapped them with shim stock and they've been fine for many, many years.
Bodgy, but it worked. :angel:

[blackapache]

Naa, it's the big 19mm bolts in the clevises at the chassis end that can flog out.
The bolts wear and the bush inner sleeve wears and voila ! we have a big clunk, yet the rubber itself is fine.

I went Super Pro there too, and as the inner sleeves were a little loose on the bolt shanks I wrapped them with shim stock and they've been fine for many, many years.
Bodgy, but it worked. :angel:

Any dramas pulling one and reseating it then the other to check them out - so I don't have to go crazy with the jack stands etc? It'll be a huge time saver just pulling one at a time obviously. Gotta work smart not hard...

What about the clevis's themselves? are they generally pretty tough or do the eyelets flog out there as well?

[blackapache]

The ball joint flogs out not the bolts,go over all the bolts and give them a nip to make sure. Pat

All good there - I've just had a new maxidrive adjustable put in about 3 months ago now by MR Auto

[rick130]

Any dramas pulling one and reseating it then the other to check them out - so I don't have to go crazy with the jack stands etc? It'll be a huge time saver just pulling one at a time obviously. Gotta work smart not hard...

What about the clevis's themselves? are they generally pretty tough or do the eyelets flog out there as well?

It's a loooong time ago, but IIRC I placed jack stands under the chassis and used a bottle jack under the nose of the diff to stop it rotating and undid the pivot bolts. Can't remember if I dropped the clevises or not ?

[blackapache]

It's a loooong time ago, but IIRC I placed jack stands under the chassis and used a bottle jack under the nose of the diff to stop it rotating and undid the pivot bolts. Can't remember if I dropped the clevises or not ?

Yeah that seems to be the general consensus.. Time to get out the trolley jack and stands then. Cheers Rick

[DFNDR90]

Yeah that seems to be the general consensus.. Time to get out the trolley jack and stands then. Cheers Rick

Any updates blackapache?