Photos of your glass

[SII Josh]

Morning all,

Is it possible to get some photos of your glass windows in your door tops?

I have ordered a window kit but oniony with no instructions I am lost as to where to start, I have read the posts about how to do it but I am much more of a visual person 😊

If you could take a pic of the bottom, side and top this would be awesome.

Thanks for your help and time everyone

[grey_ghost]

Hi Josh,

Does this help (a little bit) ??
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/814.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/815.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/816.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/817.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/818.jpg

Cheers,
GG.

[gromit]

Some pictures here that might help http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-29.html#post2160247



Colin

[SII Josh]

awesome Grey ghost and Colin,

managed to get them test fitted today using your pics and link.

tomorrows job is to drill the holes into the channels and filler strips and get some glazing strips for the fixed window.

will take photos for every one :D

[Dark61]

I did this not so long ago. When you put on the sealer between the glass and the door frame , when you press the glass in dont press it down too much or you will have too large a gap between the fixed and the sliding pane.
cheers,
D

[S3ute]

Hello from Brisbane.

A timely post as I have the same job ahead of me.

A quick question to the respondents.

A recent issue of Classic Land Rover magazine had a workshop section on refurbishing windows and mentioned that Land Rover used a bog filler between the felt channel and window frame. The two Land Rovers that I have removed channel from didn't seem to have any such filler adhering to the frame or channels.

So, the question(s) is what is the answer? Do you need to seal the channel in to the frame or not? If you do then what are people using?

Cheers,

Neil

[Dark61]

I just used some Sikaflex out of a tube between the fixed pane of glass and the door top. Nowhere else.
With hindsight - It probably would have been better to use some kind of glazing putty. I think you can get sticks of it. Easier to get the correct depth I think.
cheers,


D

[gromit]

Not sure what the benefit of sealing the channel to the frame would be. Maybe instead of using screws or maybe an attempt at rust prevention ?
I haven't seen filler behind the channel but would Australian build be different ?

I managed to buy some of butyl rubber tape http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/224654-butyl-rubber-tape.html for the fixed glass.
Very cheap but heavy and bulky to post.


Colin

[JDNSW]

Not sure what the benefit of sealing the channel to the frame would be. Maybe instead of using screws or maybe an attempt at rust prevention ?
I haven't seen filler behind the channel but would Australian build be different ?

I managed to buy some of butyl rubber tape http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/224654-butyl-rubber-tape.html for the fixed glass.
Very cheap but heavy and bulky to post.


Colin

Like you, I have not seen filler behind the channel, and I'm not sure just how useful it would be, seeing there are drains to the area below the channel.

It is quite possible that Australian assembly differed in respect of sealant behind the channel, but I doubt that it would have been done anywhere, as it would not have any benefit. (other than gluing the channel in place instead of using screws)

John

[S3ute]

Like you, I have not seen filler behind the channel, and I'm not sure just how useful it would be, seeing there are drains to the area below the channel.

It is quite possible that Australian assembly differed in respect of sealant behind the channel, but I doubt that it would have been done anywhere, as it would not have any benefit. (other than gluing the channel in place instead of using screws)

John

Hello again.

This accords with my own thoughts and limited experience with replacing the door channels on a Series 2A back in the early 1980s. But the article clearly mentioned the filler and perversely not blocking the drain holes...... It was specifically covering the rear cab windows in the article - might that make a difference? I have to do both the doors and half cab on my truck and was planning to do no more than put some zinc primer in the door channel before screwing in the insets.

I had in mind to flick a request for clarity to the magazine editor but thought I may as well check here first.

Cheers,

Neil

[SG1 Bones]

G'day Neil,
I posted about this last year, because I needed to replace the old Bailey channels. What I ended up doing was, glue the bottom in only (Sikaflex), glue and screw the side and only screw the top. My reasoning was that the screws were rusting and so was the door top and Bailey channel. I made sure that the drain holes were not filled and that the glue did not inhibit water to flow through. I only screwed the top so that I might be able to remove the glass at a later stage if required. The screws I used were (I think) 8g x 10mm stainless steel pan heads. Next time I would use 6g instead, the 8g (all I had) were a bit big.

I don't know if this assists you or complicates things. Other than that all the best.

Nathan.