Cleaning Product Choices

[Smocky]

Hey all,

So my shiney white paint is getting pretty dirty, pretty quickly.

What cleaning products do you guys use for the paintwork, rims, glass and interior?

Preferably I want something that isn't going to oxidize the paint and a decent wax to coat it regularly. Chose not to spend $4,000 on paint protection :o so I if I spend good money on cleaning products I am way ahead. :D

Of course I could just go read the ads, but what do you guys swear buy to look after your pride and joy?

Smocky.

PS I did do some research first, but couldn't find a thread on this in the past year or two.

[RobA]

Seems to be a couple of choices in this forum; autoglym and megrims. Both are systems in that you have a good deal of choice of varying paint and trim treatments.

We have been using Meguirs for far longer than I care to mention and find it very good for cleaning paintwork, trim, glass and leather interior. Others will have different preferences to share

The key to maintenance is to start with clean undamaged paintwork and put a couple of coats of polish on it over a month or so to build up the protection. After that we do ours about every three months as it gets a lot of work and very dirty in the process. Salt spray and outback red dust are course hazards for us

One other issue is to not "cut" scratches rather fill them with polish as cutting back removes layers of paint. On big trips and places like Beachport where bush pinstripes are unavoidable we use a product called Road Warrior Plus pain protection. It's a roll-on rubber paint and two layers of it works a treat. A bit difficult to remove but a lot easier then having to put another 2-3 coats of polish back on

Rob

[letherm]

Hey all,

What cleaning products do you guys use for the paintwork, rims, glass and interior?



I use Bowdens Wheely Clean for the rims. It was recommended from this forum. Works well with the excessive brake dust.

Martin

[Smocky]

That's awesome info, thanks Rob. Looks like I have a buys weekend coming up !!

So clean it first, then use Meguirs or AutoGlym Polish on it. And I should look to do a coat maybe each weekend for the first month? After that it's maintenance.

We get a really nasty, sticky sap that falls from the Jacaranda tree, so I want to get it well coated before then. Crap gets everywhere :mad:

[jonesy63]

I use Bowdens Wheely Clean for the rims. It was recommended from this forum. Works well with the excessive brake dust.

Martin

+ agree with this.. the best wheel cleaning product I've ever used.

Of course, change to Akebono pads and you have to use the cleaner less often! :cool:

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Hi

I'm a bit of a novice at "looking after" the paintwork.
When I got my original Disco 1, I polished it (probably Turtle Wax or something like that) after every offroad trip - there were lots of places to get scratches in Arnhem Land! That lasted for about 6mths, before I tired of that - my arms just about fell off!

When I got the Disco 4 (2nd hand), it was in pretty good nick, so I thought I'd better try again...

I use Meguirs Gold Class 'shampoo' (the suds in the bucket), with a microfibre mit. I do this as often as I can, which probably ends up every couple of months.

Then I use Meguirs Canuba Wax to 'protect' the paint. It does an awesome job of keeping stains/heavy marks off the paint. Any marks (from birds, trees, bugs etc) just wash off with the next wash, and don't leave any stains.
The wax smells great when you're applying it too!
I'd like to do this more often, but it's at least every 6mths between waxes (so probably gets a wax every 3 or 4 cleans)...

No science, but it works well for a 'small' amount of effort - car still looks ok (IMHO)!! :D

Rob

[eddomak]

I switched from the regular brands (Kitten, Shelleys, Turtle etc) to Meguiars many years ago, and haven't looked back. The suds are so much more slippery, and you need so much less of the product.

Each line of products seem progressively better than the next, from Soft Wash Gel (pink), to Gold Class (yellow), to the new NXT (purple) series, but the price in dollar value is only marginal, so go for the NXT. Usually the cheapest place to get this is Supercheap Auto when they go on 20% sale, or when they are on sale on SCA's eBay site and sometimes you can combine an extra 20% discount from an eBay promo code. (I have just bought 2.5L of AutoGlym premium that has RRP $31 for $12.50 on such a deal recently but haven't had a chance to try it).

There are lots of hints and tips on the Meguiars website as to how to wash a car "properly" to help avoid scratches & swirl marks (2 bucket method, lambswool/noodle mit, bucket grates, separate sponge/bucket for wheels/greasy areas, etc etc). Then, as others have said, there is the polish/protect phases.

[RobA]

That's awesome info, thanks Rob. Looks like I have a buys weekend coming up !!

So clean it first, then use Meguirs or AutoGlym Polish on it. And I should look to do a coat maybe each weekend for the first month? After that it's maintenance.

We get a really nasty, sticky sap that falls from the Jacaranda tree, so I want to get it well coated before then. Crap gets everywhere :mad:

Smocky check your auto stores for specials as you can really get some good discounts off retail at the moment. The list of meguirs stuff we have is based around their X20 car wash and cleaner and the wax. Latter is extremely easy to wipe on using a special applicator to ensure you only use a very small amount at a time. When applying to virgin paintwork you need to apply a couple of coats to fill the voids in the paintwork. But you don't need to spend a weekend doing it. To clean and wax our D4 takes me around 2 hours. You need to purchase with the wax a yellow and red set of special cloths which work really well to in the first instance remove the dry wax and secondly to then lightly polish the car. You know when you have got the paintwork right when you touch it and it feels very slippery. Also use their wheel cleaner, leather cleaner and restorer as well

I would not apply coats over four weekends life is too short. Do one each fortnight in the first month that should be all you need

Rob

[rar110]

I buy car wash gear from carcareproducts.com.au.

For a regular wash I use a pressure cleaner to clean the wheels then the body to remove dirk and grit. I then use Perls shampoo (microfibre mitt & 2 bucket method). If the paint feels reasonably grit free (use plastic bag as glove and wipe hand over the paint to see if feels gritty) I'll spray on wax Gyeon Wetcoat which protects the paint. I then dry the car with a microfibre towel.

If the paint feels gritty (looks clean but has contaminates) I also use Mint clay bar and lube juice. A new car should be clean but plastic bag method will tell you. Clay bar makes the paint feel so smooth and clean. Removing contaminants extends the paint life. I do this twice a year as our cars live outside.

[cafe latte]

What do you guys use to get splattered bugs off paint and glass? My Landy is a Defender so its brick shape pics up quite a few splattered bugs.
Cheers
Chris

[RobA]

What do you guys use to get splattered bugs off paint and glass? My Landy is a Defender so its brick shape pics up quite a few splattered bugs.
Cheers
Chris

Any decent tar and bug remover will do the job. Just don't leave them too long as the contents of their gut actually etches paint

Rob

[cafe latte]

Are those products safe for paint themselves or do you need to apply carefully?
Cheers
Chris

[LandyAndy]

What do you guys use to get splattered bugs off paint and glass? My Landy is a Defender so its brick shape pics up quite a few splattered bugs.
Cheers
Chris

I find windex works really good,1 spray if they are light,wash with the truckwash/carwash if still there the second spray will get whats left.
Andrew

[RobA]

Are those products safe for paint themselves or do you need to apply carefully?
Cheers
Chris

I would be very surprised if any of the products on the market from reputable brands were not safe for paintwork. We use the meguirs one for compatibility I guess but if you have black plastic stuff one thing is for sure do not get this stuff on it as it does put a white stain on the plastic surface which can be removed with another product but better to tape it over or try and avoid contact

Rob

[Smocky]

Is there a wax or polish or whatever that you can use across all surfaces? Meaning paint, rubber, plastic, glass? Or do you need to be careful applying only to paint?

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[LandyAndy]

Keep your polish away from plastics,it stains white.It isnt a problem on glass.
Andrew

[jon3950]

Mine gets a liberal dose of rainwater every now and then. When it goes in for a service I think they must use some sort of detergenty thing on it because it comes back white.

Hmm, maybe I'm not the right person to answer this question....

[Jimlr]

I buy car wash gear from carcareproducts.com.au.

For a regular wash I use a pressure cleaner to clean the wheels then the body to remove dirk and grit. I then use Perls shampoo (microfibre mitt & 2 bucket method). If the paint feels reasonably grit free (use plastic bag as glove and wipe hand over the paint to see if feels gritty) I'll spray on wax Gyeon Wetcoat which protects the paint. I then dry the car with a microfibre towel.

If the paint feels gritty (looks clean but has contaminates) I also use Mint clay bar and lube juice. A new car should be clean but plastic bag method will tell you. Clay bar makes the paint feel so smooth and clean. Removing contaminants extends the paint life. I do this twice a year as our cars live outside.


+1

Read the guide on their website, lays out the process perfectly.

[EastFreo]

I have been converted to Autoglym. Read about it in here and Defendernet. Really good products.

Also recommend windex for removing bugs.

[Smocky]

Damn it it's raining. Suits you Jon :D

I guess I'm not getting to wash and wax my car today after all. Or get the Pajero ready for sale :/

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[1950landy]

What do you guys use to get splattered bugs off paint and glass? My Landy is a Defender so its brick shape pics up quite a few splattered bugs.
Cheers
Chris
When I was traveling for work all over Qld , when I got back to Brisbane I sprayed the bugs with Windex ,even the on paint then washed the vehicle with truck wash.

[BenD4]

I just purchased snow foam and a lance so will be interested in giving that a go.

For me my washing technique depends of how dirty the car is. The only difference being I don't get the Karcher out if I haven't been off road.



Pressure wash the underside using Karcher Underbody cleaner (http://www.karcher.com.au/aus/Products/Home__Garden/Pressure_washers/Premium_class/11671530.htm?&sdp=ac&pid=26425610&accessoriesGroupName=&pn=Underbody+cleaner&title=Underbody+cleaner)
Pressure wash the entire vehicle (this will now change to snow foam then pressure wash)
Wash sections of the vehicle at a time (I break the car up into 10 sections, roof, windows right, windows left, windscreen, bonnet, back of vehicle, left then right sides, front bumper/grill and then swap sponges and do wheels and wheel archers), rinsing thoroughly between each section. I use Supercheap car wash and a supercheap microfibre noodle sponge (truck wash is a big no no for me as most of them are harsh enough to strip wax from the paintwork check the label, kitchen divergent is also a big no no for me as most contain salt)
This is when I get funny looks from the neighbors. Once all washed and rinse I get the petrol leaf blower out and brow all the excess water off the car I can before using a Supercheap microfiber towel to dry the car. On a sunny day I do this in sections to avoid water spots, on a cloudy cool day I can blow the excess water from most of the car before using the towel.
I then grab an old microfiber towel and open and wipe down all the door jams and rubbers. Depending on how dirty she was this towel may get hosed off then put in the wash or thrown out.
Grabbing another microfiber towel I wipe down the dash and seats, console etc
Next is cleaning the windows if required, good old Windex the non-tinted windows/outside and just a microfiber towel or chamois on the window tint
Finally vacuum and tuck her away ready to play another day.

I am yet to clay bar her (only 750km on the clock) and polish and wax but that will come after our first trip next month. For this I have Meguairs gear to use up before I look at the Autoglym products.

[Smocky]

Soooo many products to choose from it's ridiculous. So it seems is 1. Clean, 2. Polish 3. Protect.

So much to choose from. I guess i just pick one and go with it.

Meguiars Ultimate was and wax is half price so going that way. I think. Lol

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[RobA]

Yep so focus on the cleaning, application and polishing process which means you need these things;
1. a wash/cleaner that matches the wax/polish you will use
2. something to wash with and we use a wool and mesh mitten the mesh helps remove small solids without scratching the surface
2a. a decent chamois to remove the water and it really makes a difference getting a decent one
3. a polish or wax and they are different. A question was asked if there is a polish that does not leave a white stain and I am sure other makers have them but in the meguirs range ultimate liquid wax and ultimate quik wax. We use the former on the town car and it does work
3a. To remove the white wax build up use gold class trim detailer
4. cloth to remove the polish/wax. we have a set of two that have different characteristics
5. glass cleaner and wheel cleaner come into play now

So yes around a $100 investment in all of that should see you set for at least a year

Enjoy the chase

Rob

[scomac]

I use Maguires "Soft Wash", it does not take off so much of the wax you have previously put on, therefore you can apply the wax less often.

[Smocky]

OK I'm set to go. :D

Will use this until it runs out and see how i go. I got the wash and wax instead of just ultimate wash because knowing how lazy i am i hope it will be better between waxes. Now to enjoy my day.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Hopefully it helps others too.

Smocky

PS in the picture is Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax, Ultimate Liquid Wax, Bowden's Wheely Clean.

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[BMKal]

I use Chemtech CT20 to wash our cars (it's basically CT18 Truckwash with a wax added). For polishing and paint protection, see comments in this thread.

http://http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/230468-paintwork-stains-mud-bird-poo.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/230468-paintwork-stains-mud-bird-poo.html)

I use the same products on the wheels as on the paintwork - brake dust is not an issue for me, as I replaced the pads on all four wheels with Akebono some time back, and have not seen black brake dust since. ;)

[Meken]

I washed mine with meguiars today - was just finishing off the wheels & Huey sent it down!! Had to go over the whole car with the chamois again [emoji24]

[Smocky]

All pretty again. Now for a wax. :)

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[Pickles2]

What do you guys use to get splattered bugs off paint and glass? My Landy is a Defender so its brick shape pics up quite a few splattered bugs.
Cheers
Chris
This subject is like oils,...everybody's got an opinion,.....and some of them are even good ones!
Anyway, for me, I keep a VERY wet rag in a plastic bag in Gracie's cubby, so that if I get a bird poo "hit" whilst on the road I can very quickly wipe it off,...bird poo on a hot day or on a hot bonnet can very quickly have devastating consequences.
Insects etc?....when I get home I simply use cold water, & I gently soak the offending bugs until I can wipe them off,....works for me,...if I feel I need to put some polish over where they've been, I'll give the spot a little polish.
Gracie is garaged whilst not in use, & apart from getting rid of bird poo etc hits, she gets a polish once a year on her birthday, and her paint is good.
Don't go overboard, Pickles.

[eddomak]

I have just bought 2.5L of AutoGlym premium that has RRP $31 for $12.50 on such a deal recently but haven't had a chance to try it

OK, all this talk about washing cars and finally a nice weekend with some time got me out there washing the D4 with Autogylm for the first time. In comparison to Meguiars I found Autoglym to be not as viscous, so I used a little more, and the suds and liquid was not as slippery. Seeing as the point of the suds is lubrication, this might not be as good?

Anyway, the performance of the cleaning was absolutely fine, with no additional effort needed. Long term I think I will stick to Meguiars NXT though.

As for foam cannons - I bought one and if you have enough people to work with you, it is a lot faster to do it that way, and easier to get suds everywhere you need it. I think I use more product though.

[Smocky]

Nice work. It was a lovely day to wash a car.

After washing and waxing the car looks better than when i picked it up from the dealer. Will apply another wax coat next week after another wash.

Also do you guys rain-x all the windows? I do all glass and side mirrors but i don't do the headlights. Do you guys rain-x the headlights?

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[RobA]

Nice work. It was a lovely day to wash a car.

After washing and waxing the car looks better than when i picked it up from the dealer. Will apply another wax coat next week after another wash.

Also do you guys rain-x all the windows? I do all glass and side mirrors but i don't do the headlights. Do you guys rain-x the headlights?

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Smocky we use rain-x on the exterior rear view mirrors and rear window only. We don't bother with front window as if you are continually cleaning the window the washer tank detergent removes the protection quite quickly so a waste of time. BTW it is great on the rear window in dusty conditions as it makes it easier to clean off the build up

The headlight covers are not glass and so do not use rain-x on them, see warning on the package.

Rob

[BMKal]

Also do you guys rain-x all the windows? I do all glass and side mirrors but i don't do the headlights. Do you guys rain-x the headlights?

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I used to use rain-X on all windows & mirrors, until I found "Nanokote". Have since done all external glass with this product. Does the same job, but lasts much, much longer between applications. It is also safe to use detergents / window washer additives with this product - they will not remove it.

http://http://www.nanokotewa.com.au/product/nanokote-diy-auto-glass/ (http://www.nanokotewa.com.au/product/nanokote-diy-auto-glass/)

As Rob said, all light lenses including headlights are polycarbonate - don't use any of these products on them. ;)

[Russrobe]

When applying the wax I put some in my hands, warm it up by rubbing together a bit then kind of slap it on gently. Working your way from top to bottom. Meant to be the best way, less waste and warming up helps it absorb into the paint. Wipe of an hour later with microfibre.
This guy is applying Swissvax, jaw dropping prices but great results.

I used to swirl wax in with pads but found this way more effective.

[LRD414]

....start with clean undamaged paintwork and put a couple of coats of polish on it over a month or so to build up the protection ....
One other issue is to not "cut" scratches rather fill them with polish as cutting back removes layers of paint.
I have read both wax & polish mentioned in this thread as what people use for the protection stage. What I haven't yet understood is what the difference is between wax and polish, ie why you might use one or the other.

And regarding polish "filling" scratches. I am guessing that the polish can reduce the visibility of lighter scratches and even make most of them effectively invisible. Is this correct and would this be a difference between polish and wax?

Scott

[Disco-tastic]

They are very different, but commonly misunderstood:

http://www.performancemotorcare.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-car-wax-and-car-polish-and-why-it-matters/

Cheers

Dan

[LandyAndy]

I used to use rain-X on all windows & mirrors, until I found "Nanokote". Have since done all external glass with this product. Does the same job, but lasts much, much longer between applications. It is also safe to use detergents / window washer additives with this product - they will not remove it.

http://http://www.nanokotewa.com.au/product/nanokote-diy-auto-glass/ (http://www.nanokotewa.com.au/product/nanokote-diy-auto-glass/)

As Rob said, all light lenses including headlights are polycarbonate - don't use any of these products on them. ;)

The link says 50% off at the moment people.
Andrew

[RHS58]

What do you guys use to get splattered bugs off paint and glass? My Landy is a Defender so its brick shape pics up quite a few splattered bugs.
Cheers
Chris

Baby / nappy wipes are great for this.
Gentle on a baby's bum, so should be ok on the D4.

I keep a dispenser pack in the D4 - fits nicely in the bottle holder in the front door,and is useful for getting the diesel off the hands at refuel time.

[rar110]

Baby / nappy wipes are great for this. Gentle on a baby's bum, so should be ok on the D4. I keep a dispenser pack in the D4 - fits nicely in the bottle holder in the front door,and is useful for getting the diesel off the hands at refuel time.

Budget baby wipes are also really good for wiping over leather seats.

[Smocky]

I have read both wax & polish mentioned in this thread as what people use for the protection stage. What I haven't yet understood is what the difference is between wax and polish, ie why you might use one or the other.

And regarding polish "filling" scratches. I am guessing that the polish can reduce the visibility of lighter scratches and even make most of them effectively invisible. Is this correct and would this be a difference between polish and wax?

Scott

Hey Scott, what I worked out (and keeping it simple) is wax is a protective coat that you put over the top of a good surface. Polish is something you use on a damaged/dirty surface to restore it, THEN you would apply the wax protective layer.

Now what I don't know enough about yet, is some polishes are harsher than others. I would avoid a cutting type unless absolutely necessary. Can't recommend a polish, I don't need one yet so I didn't look too much in to that.

For a good surface it is good clean, then wax.

hope this helps.

Jason.

[theresanothersteve]

A lot of the products available today are silicon based. They have the advantage of creating a low tension covering (great for water beading) without the abrasive effect of polishes.

I am a fan of fireglaze. I get it applied to all new cars within a week or so of purchase. Its the same stuff the dealers charge $$$ for as paint treatment. When we bought the second hand D3 I had the paintwork clayed and then fireglazed.

Then I use Meguires for paintwork, RainX for exterior glass, and Oakwood (from supermarkets) for leather. The Meguires speed detail stuff is great for a quick touch up between waxing/ polishing. Finally convinced the wife to use it on her D3 and now can't keep her away from the stuff. In the same time as it takes to chamois the car comes up shinier than new.

I am, however, looking at the AutoGlym range. It, too, has a good name...

[rar110]

A lot of the products available today are silicon based. They have the advantage of creating a low tension covering (great for water beading) without the abrasive effect of polishes. I am a fan of fireglaze. I get it applied to all new cars within a week or so of purchase. Its the same stuff the dealers charge $$$ for as paint treatment. When we bought the second hand D3 I had the paintwork clayed and then fireglazed. Then I use Meguires for paintwork, RainX for exterior glass, and Oakwood (from supermarkets) for leather. The Meguires speed detail stuff is great for a quick touch up between waxing/ polishing. Finally convinced the wife to use it on her D3 and now can't keep her away from the stuff. In the same time as it takes to chamois the car comes up shinier than new. I am, however, looking at the AutoGlym range. It, too, has a good name...

Is Fireglaze & Glare Plus Paint sealant the same thing?

[Redback]

I use CT18 to clean the car, then give it a light polish, if it has scratches, and most of the time it does, every 3 to 6mths I take it to the local panel beater and get the scratches buffed out:cool:

[theresanothersteve]

Is Fireglaze & Glare Plus Paint sealant the same thing?I'm not familiar with Glare Plus, but I know the bloke who details the cars at work also applies the paint treatment on behalf of several high end dealers in SA and uses Fireglaze.

Looking at the Glare Plus website I found the following claim: 'We use 22nd century technology in every aspect of our operation', so I'm a bit dubious on anything else they say.

[RobA]

A lot of the products available today are silicon based. They have the advantage of creating a low tension covering (great for water beading) without the abrasive effect of polishes.

I am a fan of fireglaze. I get it applied to all new cars within a week or so of purchase. Its the same stuff the dealers charge $$$ for as paint treatment. When we bought the second hand D3 I had the paintwork clayed and then fireglazed.

Then I use Meguires for paintwork, RainX for exterior glass, and Oakwood (from supermarkets) for leather. The Meguires speed detail stuff is great for a quick touch up between waxing/ polishing. Finally convinced the wife to use it on her D3 and now can't keep her away from the stuff. In the same time as it takes to chamois the car comes up shinier than new.

I am, however, looking at the AutoGlym range. It, too, has a good name...

Just to point out there are two categories of Meguirs cleaning systems. The "speed detail" as mentioned is not what we use or recommend for 4WD as it is more for cars with nice clean paintwork that doesn't necessarily need the protection a 4WD does. They classify it as wash and maintain which assumes you already have a layer of paint protection below this

We use the Tech Wax wash and polish which they classify as polish and protect.

Rob

Rob

[theresanothersteve]

Agreed, as I said between between waxing and polishing. Helps maintain a 'better than new' appearance and water beading but doesn't replace the real thing.

[LandyAndy]

I got a tube of Oakwood Hydrating Cream today whilst at Coles.Does it work as good as it reads on 49 year old sun damaged Ranga leather?????
Andrew

[theresanothersteve]

Unfortunately you can look after leather and then neglect it; it will respond to care later. It doesn't work the other way around.

(Based on experience with saddles)

[Smocky]

So what are the recommended products for PROTECTING the new leather interior? The outside is getting wax protection regularly what should i do to the inside?

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[BMKal]

I got a tube of Oakwood Hydrating Cream today whilst at Coles.Does it work as good as it reads on 49 year old sun damaged Ranga leather?????
Andrew

I don't think there's a product on the market that would be capable of restoring that, unfortunately. :p:p:p

[RobA]

So what are the recommended products for PROTECTING the new leather interior? The outside is getting wax protection regularly what should i do to the inside?

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We use the Meguirs gold class cleaner & conditioner on our black leather interior and dash. Never really thought I had dirty seats as used to wipe them with a damp chamois but this stuff is great. But there are a lot of very good leather conditioners and cleaners out there

As well it works really well on the leather steering wheel, cleaning and treating but with no slippery surface at the end

Never use something for humans! It contains quite different chemicals which can cause issues such as clogging and buildup of creme as well as damaging the leather surface itself. Leather is tuff for sure but still needs to be maintained correctly for longevity

Rob

[BMKal]

Thanks Rob. I was going to ask if anyone could recommend a decent product for the steering wheel. Mine needs a bit of TLC. ;)

I learnt the hard way on a previous vehicle NOT to use Armorall. :eek:

[FatBoy]

I'm a bit late to this thread, but with my other car when it needs a good clean and polish I use Meguiars products.

Step 1: Wash the car with NXT Car Wash. To really care for the paint it was recommended to me to use Baby Shampoo (pH neutral).

Step 2: Don't dry the car, but keep it wet so that you can "Clay Bar" it. I use Meguiars Quick Detailer to keep it moist. Once finished, dry off the remainder with a terry towelling cloth. This removes any oxidation and other contaminants (bird poo, exhaust stains, etc).

Step 3: Paint Cleaner. Cleans and repairs the paint. Apply as per directions on the bottle. Can hide and/or repair any swirl marks.

Step 4: Polish. Again, follow the directions on the bottle.

Step 5: Wax. To protect the stuff you have just done.

I generally do this once every six months or so. Wax once a month, and wash once a week. With a normal wash I use a good chamois to dry, then follow it with a terry towelling cloth to get it totally dry.

Inside on the leather I have used Oakwood Leather Care products, they seem to do a good job.

[LandyAndy]

So what are the recommended products for PROTECTING the new leather interior? The outside is getting wax protection regularly what should i do to the inside?

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The Oakwood stuff has been mentioned before.I saw it whilst shopping last nite so I got a tube to try.They have the wipes too.
Andrew

[rar110]

Maguires leather cleanser kit took the cream colour out of my RRV seats. You could see the dye all over the cloth.

[Meken]

Maguires leather cleanser kit took the cream colour out of my RRV seats. You could see the dye all over the cloth.


You sure that wasn't dirt?

[Smocky]

I don't want to clean the leather, it's new. I want to protect it to make it easier to clean later and to protect it from damage and drying out.When I bought the car, obviously they offered to sell me interior protection.

I'll look at the Oakwood product range and look for a protector. Maybe that's conditioner, not sure.

This is a good thread I think for others looking to learn how to look after their car, so it's never too late to add to it :D

[Smocky]

I think I might get some Bowden's Leather Love and Leather Guard tomorrow and give the seats a going over with that.

[EastFreo]

I have been using Autoglym leather cleaner and protector. Seems pretty good.

[shanegtr]

I think I might get some Bowden's Leather Love and Leather Guard tomorrow and give the seats a going over with that.
Im a fan of Bowdens Own products. I use the vinyl care on the interior trim with good results. Plus its an aussie product and keeps the bowdens buying more classic race cars

[apom]

I just did a 1000km test on the Autoglym Wheel Protector. The 1000km included a trip over the weekend to Fraser for the GOE training. Its magic!!! Not only does it stop brake dust but it also stops sand and mud sticking to the rims. Those on the course noticed the difference.

To test it I just coated one front alloy with it and left the other uncoated. The photo below is after 300km and there is already a clear difference. Sadly I forget to photo it at 1000km just before the after Fraser Body wash (woops) but suffice to say... I will be using it from now on.

[LRD414]

Has anyone successfully cleaned marks off the upper pillar trim that is some type of fabric, similar to the roof lining?
Marks are dirt, cargo barrier mounting foot, etc.

Cheers,
Scott

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1144.jpg

[l00kin4]

Hi Scott,
I'm sure there are probably better options, but I used some Armor All Orange cleaning wipes on this trim the other day with good result - much better than I was expecting. Mostly dirty finger marks but they were pretty ingrained and came off completely.
David

[BMKal]

Has anyone successfully cleaned marks off the upper pillar trim that is some type of fabric, similar to the roof lining?
Marks are dirt, cargo barrier mounting foot, etc.

Cheers,
Scott

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1144.jpg

SWMBO bought me a Bissell Spot Clean Auto for Christmas. It's one of those gifts she bought me so that I could clean her car - the D4 is still pretty clean inside. It works well, both on carpet and other upholstery. We've also used it to clean the lounge furniture inside - a handy bit of kit to have if you need to clean the interior of cars occasionally.

[DI5CO]

I used to work in a dealership and sometimes the mechanics would put nice grease marks on the pillars. I used Prepsol and it would come up spotless and dry perfectly. Just make sure you use a clean white cloth.
It may depend on the type of dirty marks and how long they have been there too as to weather they come off or not. I have since bought Prepsol and have it at home and also use it to clear tar and sap etc.

[Pickles2]

What about good old "Dissol"?....Cleans just about anything,..been around longer than me I reckon!
Pickles.