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john@
9th February 2016, 09:29 PM
My 1998 P38 has been behaving erratically for quite some time, a couple of times going into fault mode and dropping to the bump stops. I replaced all air springs about 12 months ago, and it was ok for a while. Then it played up again, so I fitted new "O" rings in the valve block a couple of times, but this never solved the problems. Then a new valve block 6 months ago, and a new compressor about a month ago. I check regularly for leaks and have none. Now it decided that when I start it, it levels off at standard height perfectly, and after 5 seconds or so it decides to raise itself to a couple of centimetres above high level without any prompting from me. There it stays, and no amount of coaxing will persuade it to lower.
I just read Boblofty's post (15 July, 2015) about his dodgy eas system, and his description of his problems sounds similar to my own. His solution was to replace the driver unit. I think it could solve my problems, too.
Has anybody any other suggestions to offer before I follow this path? :confused:

Keithy P38
10th February 2016, 12:22 AM
Replace the driver unit.

I just put a P38 up here on coils because the owner didn't want to spend any more $$ diagnosing and repairing the EAS. The only part not replaced was the driver unit.

P38's are getting to that age where things like this are starting to go!

Good luck and please let us know if it solves your issue!

Cheers
Keithy

john@
11th February 2016, 02:31 PM
Hi Keithy P38, Thanks for your comments - I find every suggestion is helpful.
I decided to check for leaks once again before diving in boots and all and replacing the eas driver unit. I got out the soapy water spray can and thoroughly checked all air hoses and connections a couple of times. Definitely no air leaks, so I'll proceed to the next step.
I'll check the timer relay first because it is the least complicated job.

Eevo
11th February 2016, 02:37 PM
do you have access to a nanocom?
makes everything much easier

john@
11th February 2016, 03:55 PM
Well, I tested the timer delay relay by applying 12 volt across terminals 2and 6, and the contacts closed giving me 12 volts at terminal 8. But I have no way to test the operation of the electronic delay circuit.
Has anyone got any suggestions? Or do I have to have a dealer test the delay circuitry with his tester? Might be cheaper to by a new delay timer relay! I guess the same thing applies to testing the driver unit on the valve block??
Struggling now, John

john@
11th February 2016, 04:20 PM
Hi Eevo, Thanks for your suggestion. .No access to a nanocom.
A friend has a Scantool "Launch". He is checking to see if it's loaded with range rover files. He tried it once before and it wouldn't access the ecu's on my rangie, but he has loaded a heap of new files on it. If the files are there I'll take it up to Morrisset Saturday. If that fails, will a dealer's test machine read the condition of the driver unit?
Thanks again, John

daf11e
11th February 2016, 07:14 PM
John I lent Boblofty my spare driver unit which sorted his problem...he purchased one and sent it to me as a replacement.....if you like I'd be happy to send you my spare to try.

Jim

john@
16th February 2016, 11:56 AM
Update. Jim loaned me his spare driver which I fitted yesterday afternoon. I tested it in the garage and it performed like a new one - no more raising itself to excessive heights without any prompting from me. Up and down just as it should. Only one glitch when I turned off the car and then restarted it, the access level light was blinking but it immediately settled at standard height when the up arrow was pressed.
I then tested it on the M3 highway and again it performed to the book, lowering to hwy level after speeding above 80 km for a few minutes, and lowering again to std level upon reducing speed below 80.
This morning I'll test again the glitch of the access leve light blinking when first started. I'll keep you posted after further tests.

John

TheTree
16th February 2016, 03:40 PM
This morning I'll test again the glitch of the access leve light blinking when first started. I'll keep you posted after further tests.

John

In my experience the light will blink until the compressor gets the system up to pressure

Steve

flathead steve
28th February 2016, 06:02 PM
Could have a slight leak on the return mine still does it haven't got round to rebuilding it again yet blinks on next setting down for a few seconds then all good.

banarcus
14th March 2016, 07:32 AM
I had a persistent error relating to high pressure in my EAS. The error always had a tendency to come on when the wife was in the vehicle but always at an inconvenient time and resulted in a hard fault. I tested the pressure sensor and checked for leaks and nothing was found to be faulty. It was driving me mad!!

I started digging around on google to see what others did. The driver pack failure was a common cause where owners replaced the driver pack and the problem then disappeared.

I looked at mine on the weekend and found that the rubber membrane that seals the driver pack's PCB was damaged from heat. I dug it the membrane out with my hobby knife and found a capacitor underneath. I bought a replacement capacitor and soldered it back in and covered the area in silastic. Time will tell whether this was the issue with mine all along.

banarcus
14th March 2016, 07:35 AM
I got sick of driving on bump stops and plugging in my laptop to reset the EAS so I attacked my driver pack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/543.jpg (http://s469.photobucket.com/user/banarcus/media/20160312_150552.jpg.html)

Here's the replacement capacitor from Jaycar. 95 cent part:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/544.jpg (http://s469.photobucket.com/user/banarcus/media/20160312_153028.jpg.html)

Now it's wait and see time.

TheTree
14th March 2016, 08:32 AM
Mate

I have a couple of those driver packs which look to be in better shape than yours !

I'm happy to send you one so you can try it out

Steve

Keithy P38
14th March 2016, 12:53 PM
If your 95c fix works, I'll send you heaps of driver units you can de-capacitate for me too ;-)

I rekon you're onto something there mate! Good work.

Cheers
Keithy

banarcus
16th March 2016, 10:37 PM
Cheers fellas. I have to give this time, I suppose 1000 to 2000 km, before I'm certain this was the problem. Again the only hard fault that I ever get is the excessive high pressure in the system. If it doesn't pop up again, then I will declare victory over the EAS!!

Of course I'll try to update this thread.

TheTree
17th March 2016, 08:19 AM
Good stuff mate !

Sadly though my experience with electronics indicates that if one capacitor is bad then the others will not be far behind :(

Steve

banarcus
14th May 2016, 10:43 PM
Well I've just come back from some camping up Dungog way. After some months and plenty of kms, I haven't had any EAS errors come up! So, so far so good!

BTW, the 5.0 under the bonnet loafed up hills with bugger all throttle input. Just love the torque!!