Betsy, my 67 s2a build. [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

67hardtop

16th February 2016, 05:17 PM

Ok its about time i started a build thread on Betsy (named by my late father). Betsy is/was a 1967 s2a hardtop. She was originally delivered in Rockhampton by Annand and Thompson as a grey truck cab ute. I know nothing of her history until my dad bought her in 2003 in Mackay in Qld. When he seen her she had a capstan winch fitted. She was painted olive drab and had a Athol Hedges steel full length roof fitted, a fairey overdrive was also fitted. After he had saved up to buy her, he went to pick her up and found the capstan winch was missing. The owner said it wasnt included in the sale. My old man went off at him but no joy. He had already sold it for what my old man had bought the landy for. So after a year of working on her to get the old girl roadworthy, it was done and he was driving her around, loving every minute of it. My dad was getting on a bit and soon found it hard to drive everyday. He called me up one day and asked if i wanted to have her. Well i saved up some money and flew up to Mackay and drove her home to Adelaide. I had to fix a couple things before i drove it back. Like there was no crank pulley bolt. Tappets were noisy so adjusted them. Topped up the oils and greased everything. Drove her home on the inland road through Bourke etc down to Broken Hill then to Adelaide. She started running a bit rough at Yamba but as i had no tools i just kept on going. Well that was in 2006. Now its 2016 and its time to start the rebuild.
A couple of pics before i started working on her.

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67hardtop

16th February 2016, 05:24 PM

So, last year i started stripping Betsy down due to encroaching rust in the bulkhead and a couple spots in the chassis.

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67hardtop

16th February 2016, 06:12 PM

I was able to strip the old girl completely back to the chassis. I wire brushed as much of the chassis as i could and found a few rusty bits which i cut out and welded up. I spent a lot of time thinking about what i wanted to do to her and i decided to fit 4 wheel disc brakes. I found a replacement bulkhead. I had it sand blasted and primed. I found a tiny spot of rust about the size of a 50 cent piece under the brake master cylinder. I cut out both pieces of panel and welded a new strip of steel into it.
I cut the pedal box longer to accept the booster and pedal assy. I painted the new to me bulkhead. Also sprayed lots of fisholene into all the box sections and crevices. I hung it upside down so it got into everything. Its amazing how that stuff works. It gets into everything. It was still seeping out of joints weeks after. Its now being stored for reassembly. Sorry no pics. They dont post here from the tab2. Unfortunatly i took most of the pics with the tab2.

I sent the chassis to the sand blasters 4 weeks ago and picked it up today.

So thats a quick catch up to where i am now. I have been posting some updates in the past in the "what did you do to your landy today" thread.

I hope my thread gets some interest. I will explain things as im going along. It will not be finished in a couple weeks so it will be a long build.
For the rivet counters, This is NOT a full concourse resto or even a resto as such, just a rebuild and repair as best as i can afford it. Im not a professional panel beateror spray painter, just a retired (due to injury) motor mechanic, having worked for about 30 years at Holden dealers around W A & S A.

My plans are...

1. Reassemble chassis including cleaning and rebuilding as many parts as i can.

2. Fitting a Paul Heystee disc brake conversion on the front with defender ventilated discs and defender discs on the salisbury rear using Paul Heystee hubs.

3. Fit double diaphragm booster to brake pedal, all new brake lines and stainless steel braided brake hoses.

4. Fit the engine and gbox etc back into chassis including refitting the fairey overdrive which ill have to look into as its bloody noisy.

5. Fit exhaust extractors and a new stainless system through holes in the chassis (military style).

6. Repair or replace the rear tub and fit it to chassis first before the bulkhead. My old bulkhead had a lot of spacers between it and the outriggers and the drivers door was a bugger to close and had no adjustment left.

7. Fit the bulkhead and adjust it so the doors close as they should.

8. Fit dash and rewire the old girl completly with fuses and relays for the lights and other things.

9. Fit front panels and radiator etc.

10. Convert the Land Rover to a soft top.

11. Register and drive around the "block" towing my no5 trailer.
Camp everywhere.
Live rest of life in a happy frame of mind travelling around our wonderful country in my Land Rover called Betsy😆

Is this too much to dream about??

Cheers Rod

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Ben_Burdett

16th February 2016, 07:30 PM

Hi Rod, yes you needed a thread of your own☺

Chassis is looking great. Bet you are glad to have it back and can't wait to start throwing parts at it. So much more enjoyable working on nice new clean stuff.

Look forward to seeing more

SG1 Bones

16th February 2016, 09:27 PM

Thanks for starting a thread. I look forward to seeing your progress.

Nathan.

Chops

16th February 2016, 09:37 PM

Interested :D

67hardtop

17th February 2016, 12:58 PM

Well I got the chassis home yesterday and with the help of a sorta mate I removed it from the trailer and mounted it back onto the rotisserie. Turned it over a few times and buckets of sand came out the holes in the chassis. Bugger. More cleaning and painting. The sand blasters missed a few bits. I think ill have to give it another coat before I fisholene it on the inside. I got called into work today (to do a clutch on a n15. I do some cashies for extra $$. I put up with the pain after for a few days.). So im just resting for a while then out with the compressor and try to blow out some of the sand. See what happens after that.

Cheers Rod

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grey_ghost

17th February 2016, 01:04 PM

Hi Mate,

I think that your dream on restoring your Landy and driving around in it is great.

As for the level of your restoration - I think do what you want to do. As long as the vehicle is safe and reliable - who cares!! :wasntme:

"To each his own I say" :angel:

I look forward to reading your thread as your project progresses!

67hardtop

17th February 2016, 04:50 PM

Ok couple panadol and outside I went. Fired up the compressor and blew as much pink sand out as I could.

Ok a question for all you land rover gurus,

Will it be ok if I drilled out some of the holes that are in the chassis to a larger diameter, say to 9/16 to help drain out the water when I flush it through and if I drill a hole in the lower box section of the rear x member to drain that out as well?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers Rod

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Chops

17th February 2016, 07:46 PM

G'day Rod, not sure on the hole resizing, but I wouldn't think it matters that much though, if your only going up say one size (?).

As for getting water and stuff out of your chassis, at work when cleaning long tubes etc, I use a peice of 6/8mm air line which you can make as long as you want, (in your case, chassis length). Just drag it back through a few times, everything will come out/dry as required.
To check how dry it is, use a "pull through", same as used in gun cleaning,,, just a bit of wire with a bit of rag tied at the end.

67hardtop

17th February 2016, 08:29 PM

Thanks chops. Ill try it.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

20th February 2016, 08:33 PM

Ok today i lowered the chassis to the ground at the rear, and lifted the front right up high and used compressed air to blow as much pink sand out as i could. Then drilled a couple holes in the lower section of the rear x member. Wow. The dirt was packed in there. I had to get a hammer and screwdriver in the hole just to loosen the dirt. Then out with the blower and about an hour later the dirt was out. That was the left side. Same on the right side but not as much crap. Then out with the hose and flushed out as much dirt and sand as i could get out from all the outriggers and x members. Then flushed out the chassis rails. I thought id gotten most of the dirt out before i took it for sand blasting. Nope. With the front right up high, i put the hose into the front dumb iron holes underneath, and man, so much crap came out the two drain holes in the rear of the chassis. I left the hose running and used an old electric aerial mast top (very strong and stiff) to break up the chunks and wash them out on both sides. You should have seen the amount of crud. And i thought id gotten most of it out b4. Well i can say the chassis is definatly clean now. Raised it and put it back on the rotisserie frame. Drained as much water out as i could. Now we have a couple hot days coming so it should dry out pretty well. Then out with the fish oil after i coat it with paint again. Then i spose ill have to find some plugs for the extra holes i drilled. Gotta try n keep some dirt out in the future.
I got a bit sunburned today lying under the rear x member.
Ahh well. "Such is life".
All good fun.

Cherrs Rod

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67hardtop

27th February 2016, 12:27 PM

Well today after reading a post by another member, and replying to it, i got a bit motivated, and, taking my own advice, i extracted my digit.
I finished painting the chassis. Its now fully coated in white knight satin black one step paint. Finally.
Now i will have to work out how to coat the inside with copious amounts of fisholene.
Then the plan is to clean up the springs and hangers and paint some more. Then hang the springs. Then the diffs and disc brakes f&r. See how that goes 😆😆

Cherrs Rod.

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67hardtop

27th February 2016, 03:55 PM

Well its a warmish day and the paint is dry. So i thought i might get my fishoil gun thingy and spray inside the outriggers and x members. Ohh boy does that stuff stink. And its "deodorised". 😵
That went so well that i got out the other gun thingy with a loooong probe tube and sprayed inside the chassis rails. That seemed to work really well. I was already smelly from the outriggers so i thought what the hell. Ohh i think hell would smell better than that stuff😈. My poor neighbours. Its gonna stink for ages.😷😷😷.
The chassis is in my front driveway.
I hope the cats stay away.
Well now to get cleaned up n go for a drive in the s3. It stinks too much at my house😎😎😎😎

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

26th March 2016, 11:45 AM

Ok i did a trip to Mildura to pick up another tub for my 2a. Its a s3 tub but it will fit. Its in heaps better condition than my 2a tub, which is full of bog and steel strips and plates and brackets pop riveted and bolted all over the place. What a mess it is. Anyway as space is severly limited at home, ive started stripping the old 2a tub. See some pics below. The galvinised steel strengthening straps underneath the tub are rusted out and still full of dirt and crap from 49 yrs of aussie dirt roads. Also the alloy longitudinal straps are corroded thru as is the floor where the steel straps were. The old girl was probably carrying 300 kgs of dirt around for years in the chassis and under the tub😠. She wont know whats going on when i get her going again. What an ordeal im going thru at the moment😯. Its all good tho, its Land Rovering at its best or worst which ever way u lean too😆. I hope everyone is enjoying Melrose show this weekend my club is putting on.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

26th March 2016, 02:34 PM

Ok a bit later now and this is whats left of the well used and abused s2a tub of betsy 😓😓😓
Im gonna have to modify the s3 tub to accept a tailgate coz it had a wagon door fitted. Not too hard i hope.😉

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

17th April 2016, 12:26 PM

Ive been pondering about this build for a few weeks as ive been slowly sinking into depression again about it. Then last night while sleeping and dreaming about it i had to remind myself that im not doing a full rebuild to better than new, (Id like to), but im just trying to remove the rusty bits and make it look better and obviously last longer. So this morning i got stuck into it again.

So i got out some mixed petrol and diesel that i obtained from some smart person a long time ago who put 60 litres of petrol in HER diesel kia van. I had 20L drum of it, and cleaned up all the spring shackles and U bolts and plates. I then mixed up 2L molasses to 18L hot water, (it seems to dissolve better in hot water) and put all the (dried by now) parts in it. Ive never used molasses b4 so i spose ill see how it works.
I noticed that one unthreaded shackle plate is badly worn where the spring had been rubbing up against it. Trouble is its been worn on both sides so someone has turned it around some time in the past. Ill have to source another one from somewhere.
A couple of the shackle bolts are also worn away on the threaded bits but not where the nuts are so ill get a couple new bolts from the local supplier.

Just on this spring shackle topic, im wondering if someone found the bolts loose and has tightened the nuts up not knowing the plates are threaded thus giving false sense of having tightened the bushes up when they have only locked the nut tighter to the shackle plate.😕

Also found that both front shocks are still working good but the rubbers are stuffed and the lower mounts have only one washer. That will also need to be rectified.
The search for rubbers starts now.
Gee that molasses smells. Hope the ants dont like it😆

Cheers Rod

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Pezwa83

17th April 2016, 05:08 PM

Im really enjoying your "refresh" build. Similar to what I hope to achieve also.

Ive never used fresh molasses, only distilled, as it becomes quite acidic after making rum, and removes rust in a flash!

Do you plan on an engine rebuild?

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67hardtop

17th April 2016, 06:34 PM

No the engine is good. I had the head done a few years ago. Was fitted with hardened seats and blue holden 6 cyl exhaust valves and bronze guides. Will replace a couple gaskets tho coz theyre leaking. Will go through the gbox and transfer coz i got a bearing kit. Would like to go through the fairey overdrive coz its noisy as hell, but i think money might be the issue with that.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

20th April 2016, 09:12 AM

Today i donned some latex gloves and carefully removed the lid of the molasses tub. What i found amased me. The top of the solution had outlines of what was below and i could see little bubbles coming to the surface. WOW. Thats outstanding. So i removed a couple of parts and the metal is getting cleaned up and the rusty bits are dissapearing fast. I am truly amased at this. I look forward to getting all the bits out and painting them ready for installation. Not sure how long i should leave the bits in the solution. I mixed it up at 2l molasses to about 18l of water. Any clues anyone?
So happy with whats happening.

Cheers Rod😆😆😆

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JDNSW

20th April 2016, 02:44 PM

How long depends on the molasses, the temperature, and how rusty the parts are, so it is impossible to say how long it will take. Typically of the order of days rather than hours or weeks. Take bits out each day to check how they are going.

John

gromit

20th April 2016, 06:41 PM

I noticed that one unthreaded shackle plate is badly worn where the spring had been rubbing up against it. Trouble is its been worn on both sides so someone has turned it around some time in the past. Ill have to source another one from somewhere.
A couple of the shackle bolts are also worn away on the threaded bits but not where the nuts are so ill get a couple new bolts from the local supplier.

Also found that both front shocks are still working good but the rubbers are stuffed and the lower mounts have only one washer. That will also need to be rectified.
The search for rubbers starts now.

All the parts you need are here :-
Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 Suspension Parts - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/suspension/suspension-parts.html)

and here :-
Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 Shock Absorbers - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/suspension/shock-absorbers.html)

The index on the Paddocks site is helpful but there are a lot of other parts that don't show in the index. Just type in the LR part number in the search box.

Typically even with freight added it's about 2/3 the local price.
You order online & pay then they pick & pack and get back to you with a couple of freight options and you then pay for freight.

Lots of other UK companies you could also source from.

Colin

67hardtop

21st April 2016, 08:31 AM

Lionelgee

23rd April 2016, 10:10 AM

Here's a pic i took this morning. You can see outlines of some of the parts. Incredible.

Cheers Rod

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Hello Rod,

This link was posted on another restoration forum I belong to that has a thread about Molasses Rust Removal. Tony Wheeler from Victoria found the link that explains what is responsible for what occurs to rust within the molasses bog. You have to scroll down a long way before provides an example of Siderophores in rust removal

The research was done by R. Balagurunathan & M. Radhakrishnan, Post Graduate Department of Microbiology, Sri Sankara Arts & Science College, Kanchipuram - 631 561. Tamilnadu. Accessed 23rd April 2016 from, Microorganisms - ENVIS Centre (http://www.envismadrasuniv.org/nl20007articles%20sidephore.html).

If you want to start reading the practical approach of other restorers the thread starts at MLU FORUM - View Single Post - Molasses Rust Removal (http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showpost.php?p=221348&postcount=1).
Accessed 23rd April 2016.

With a very quick search of the AULRO threads here are some about molasses rust removal. There were more ...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/223464-molasses-bath-trick.html#post2402922
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/115028-rust-removal-molasses.html#post2312394
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/185933-molasses-mix-rust-removal.html#post2030385
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/23680-rust-removal-technique.html#post739379 (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/23680-rust-removal-technique.html#post739379)

I am a researcher - that is what I do. Sometimes I think it is as addictive as Series Land Rovers :cool:

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

23rd April 2016, 11:34 AM

Thanks for that Lionel. U have certainly given me some reading to do now. I am amazed at how the steel comes up so clean and bright after u wash the solution off.
Today i removed all the parts from the molasses mix and washed it all off with my pressure washer and straight away dried everything off with compressed air.
After inspection i put both the front and rear u bolt plates back in and a couple of the body stays.
Ive put up a frame thingy with some old computer table frames on my bench, and hung the u bolts and shackle plates on some wire and put some rustkill primer on. I will coat them with paint when the primer is dry.
Ive ordered one new rear shackle plate from DLS in england. That and the shocky rubbers should be here next week.
I need to get 3 new shackle bolts and I will probably replace all the nylock nuts for the shackle bolts and the u bolts.
All the other bolts seem to be in very good shape.
I will be cleaning up the threads before i fit them. A friend has a very comprehensive set of taps and dies.
Im not going to paint the bolts but i will paint the heads of them after ive fitted them.
Thats it for today i think.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

23rd April 2016, 12:27 PM

Lionelgee

23rd April 2016, 01:25 PM

G'day Rod,

It is because of these "siderophores" Accessed April 23rd 2016 from, Universit't T?bingen - Home (http://www.siderophore.com/) that provide the environment for bacteria and fungi to "collect iron" = eat away the rust. That is about the limit of how far my Year 12 Biology class from 1980 gets me :)

Here is an Aussie YouTube clip about Molasses Treatment of Rust - Accessed April 23rd 2016 from, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq5IUiYMhRM

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionelgee

23rd April 2016, 01:47 PM

Just reading some of that research u did Lionel, its a lot of big scientific words. Too much for me to understand much of it. All i know is that rusty stuff goes in and almost clean stuff comes out after time has elapsed. I dont know who makes up those big names for such small things but its a great job for them to do all that stuff so we can understand how stuff works.
Thanks for the effort. Uve done well.

Cheers Rod

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Hello Rod,

I was just looking for an article to link one part of my research to another before I can wrap up one section. I came across exactly what you refer to about "big names for small things".

The process is called "Obfuscation" which according to the FreeDictionary.com means ... "To make so confused or opaque as to be difficult to perceive or understand". Accessed April 23, 2016 from, Obfuscate - definition of obfuscate by The Free Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/obfuscate).

Some academics seem set out to make obfuscation an art form.

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

23rd April 2016, 04:15 PM

Gday Lionel, i can tell u they are very good at it.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

23rd April 2016, 04:29 PM

Ok so its later in the day and i decided to paint the bits i took out of the molasses this morning.
First i primed, see previous post.
Now ive painted the bits black. Looking good.
Time for rest now...lol

Cheers Rod

Bloody supervisor asleep on duty again...

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Homestar

23rd April 2016, 04:56 PM

Geez, Snoopy's got the good life. :)

67hardtop

25th April 2016, 12:45 PM

Here is todays effort. Ive fitted the front springs. Ive left the bolts loose so i can tighten them once the weight is back on them and i painted them too just to make them look presentable, no other reason. I did have some trouble tho with the left front spring bush. I tapped the bolt in and it jammed inside the bush. So i gave it a hit and it got really jammed in tight. So i put a spanner on the bolt and tried to turn it a bit and the inner sleeve of the bush broke away from the rubber. Ive never had that happen before on a new bush. So i grabbed the vise grips and fitted them to the head of the bolt then used a balljoint splitter to bash the bolt out from the inner part of the bush. It came out eventually after i fitted a second pair of vise grips as the bolt was drifted out. The bolt was ok but the bush was stuffed. I drifted the bush out of the front spring and checked it out. The inner was ovaled and so was never going to work properly. Luckily i hadn't fitted the bushes to the rear springs yet so i used one of those to refit to the front spring. I refitted the spring and all was good. Quick squirt of cheap black paint and it looks the part. Just gotta get 4 new bolts when i can and a new bush for the rear springs.
When Betsy was still together she used to lean down on the drivers side so ive swapped the front springs over left to right. When shes back together ill see if shes still lazy on one side then. I dont know the history of Betsy but i know shes been apart before as shes had some major chassis repairs in the past and i wondered if they've fitted the springs incorrectly. I know that the rear springs are not the originals as there arent enough leaves (only 7) and they are a lot thicker than the front ones.

Time for rest and thoughts of our brave soldiers who paid the ultimate price for us to be free to work on land rovers.

Thanks Boys and girls.

Cheers Rod

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Loubrey

29th April 2016, 08:50 AM

Hi Rod,

Hope you've got some well muscled assistance threading the axle back in there...:eek: I work mostly on my own and the axles are blooming heavy once rebuilt!

Ignore me if the plan was to drop them again to refit the axle! :D

Cheers,

Lou

67hardtop

29th April 2016, 09:06 AM

67hardtop

30th April 2016, 03:00 PM

So today i fitted new bushes to the LHR spring and then tried the bolts this time b4 i fitted it to the chassis. Found that 1 bolt went in half way then stopped. Out with the round file and a few swipes later bolt fitted good. Checked the chassis bushes and bolt fitted one but not the other. Same thing with the file. All good. Plenty locktite anti sieze and fitted all the bolts and plates and nuts. Left them all loose. Then cleaned up the leaf spring with the angle grinder and a wire wheel. Then i put a liberal coat of gloss black cheap crap spraycan paint and its drying as i write this post.
Waiting for parts for RHR spring now.
See pics⬇

Cheers Rod

Ps. Just got a call from my nice niece. Her rodeo diesel wont start. Starter is just clicking. Batterys good😕. At the Elizabeth centre with all the shopping. Guess whos going to push start the thing with his trusty old Magna....hmmmm😕😕

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Loubrey

2nd May 2016, 01:15 PM

Hi Lou, i do have a plan whether it works or not ill find out when the time comes. I am planning to fit the axle housing with the diff first and then build up the disc brake setup after so it shouldnt be that heavy i hope. Im just waiting for parts from England so i can fit the rear springs next.

Cheers Rod

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Aaah... Significantly lighter without the hubs, although the off centre weight of the diffs make them awkward regardless. 6 of one and half dozen of the other concerning fitting the diffs I suppose...

So much easier on exposed axles, but reasonably hard work moving the axles about with them fitted.

Cheers,

Lou

67hardtop

4th May 2016, 10:54 AM

Ok today i fitted the last 2 bushes to the RHR leaf spring. Was waiting for a replacement for a damaged bush. Still waiting for a parcel from England with a couple other bits. Its been a while but patience is a virtue. Will clean up the spring later and paint it with cheapy paint. Its bloody cold today and wet.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

10th May 2016, 01:52 PM

Ok parts arrived fron England. Seems they dont know the difference between front and rear shocky rubbers. They sent me two front sets but the numbers on the packaging were front and rear. Dont matter. Rear lower bushes are easy to get. The top rear and front ones are harder to get due to the internal diameter of the bush. Got my colder thermostat now as well and two new wiper arm hubs. Also got the spring shackle plate i was waiting for.

So i wire brushed the spring and fitted it to the chassis with the new shackle plate and bolts and plenty anti sieze grease. Left the bolts loose. Painted the spring. Now it matches the rest.

Time to relax till i get the diffs sorted and fitted.
The u bolt plates are still in the molasses so they will be clean by now😆.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

10th May 2016, 01:54 PM

Forgot the pics⬇

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

15th May 2016, 11:56 AM

Bit the bullet today and removed the u bolt plates and tub stays from the molasses solution. Washed them off and dried them with compressed air. Then it struck me. I have a perfect drying booth just outside my back door. My bbq. So i fired it up, put the parts inside and closed the hood. Couple mins later i turned it off and removed the parts and hung them up and undercoated them while they were still warm. I thought it was a good idea as i dont use the grille plates much for cooking. Worked out great. Will leave the paint to dry and go out later and paint them black satin with white knight rust guard.😆😆

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

15th May 2016, 11:58 AM

Forgot the pics again. Trying too hard.⬇⬇

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

15th May 2016, 01:14 PM

Painted the parts. Looking good.

Cheers Rod

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Ben_Burdett

15th May 2016, 01:35 PM

Looking good rod. Love the bbq drier too[emoji106] [emoji106]

67hardtop

29th June 2016, 08:52 PM

Ok bit of an update, i got the parts today, that i didnt think i needed, from heystee conversions via british off road, for the rear disc conversion. 2 nice new caliper mount plates. They came with bolts and a small crescent shaped spacer plate. I mounted the plate on the diff to see how it fitted up. Bloody fantastic. I dont need the spacer plate. Must be for an earlier type series conversion. Looks good. Still need to clean up the calipers and some other stuff. Couple pics below. ⬇

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

1st September 2016, 08:24 PM

Ok been a while, ive been running a service station for 7 weeks while the owner was away in Europe so nothing got done at all. Today i made up the brake pipes for the rear calipers modeled on the ones that were fitted to the defender calipers that i have. The original pipes were too long and werent made to go around u bolts. So i made up new pipes and routed them about where the originals went behind the protection plates on the back of the diff and up to the defender tee piece and then to a new longer braided hose which will fit to the chassis bracket. Still need to clean up the calipers and then paint the diff satin black then install it to the chassis and springs. I hand bent the pipe bends and double flared the pipe ends.

Couple pics⏬

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

6th September 2016, 01:48 PM

Did a bit of painting today with satin black. Now i gotta get some caliper paint and do them and the hubs...maybe😆😆

Cheers Rod

Couple pics ⤵

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67hardtop

9th September 2016, 02:03 PM

On Wednesday i decided that the **itpart hub seals i got with the bearing kits were not really up to the job of keeping in the grease/oil and the road grime out seeing as they are only a single lip seal with a part number of RTC 3510 on them. Ive had problems before with this brand of seals. I was told that this is the seal i should be using. I was thinking that these seals would be ok if i was using drum brakes as the brake drum would offer protection to the seal, but because i will be running disc brakes there would be no protection from road hazards and grime. So i was looking into getting double lip seals, but no one could tell me if thier seals were double lip or not. I would have to order one in and pay for it just to see. I went to our local CBC and they told me the same thing, and at $15.00 each, l wasn't going to order one in (from Sydney) to look at it. So i went to my local Repco store and the very knowlegable, fully qualified mechanic, Gabrielle, helped me out. Instead of ordering the hub seal to suit a series 2a land rover, she ordered a seal by measurements only and found that they had over 150 in stock at the warehouse. She rang a buddy there and got him to look at one of the seals, and found out that they were indeed double lipped seals. So i ordered 4 seals at $5.00 each. Picked them up today and was very happy. I checked them on a stub axle and in a hub. Perfect. The part number for the repco bought seals is rs207 or kelpro 97207. The seal quality is heaps better than the **itpart ones i've got.
Couple pics below. (I hope they worked out).

Cheers Rod

Pic 2 and 3 is kelpro
Pic 1 and 4 is **itpart

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67hardtop

9th September 2016, 02:16 PM

Couple more pics below.

No1 left seal kelpro right seal **itpart
No2 and 3 **itpart seal

Cheers Rod

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Homestar

9th September 2016, 07:50 PM

Good work mate. Yes, the Britpart rubber products leave a bit to be desired, but some of thier other stuff is ok.

whitehillbilly64

10th September 2016, 05:13 AM

russellrovers

10th September 2016, 05:56 AM

67hardtop

10th September 2016, 08:48 AM

Hi Rod,
Drum brake conversion looks great.
Is it common to only do the fronts ?
Would the seals be the same on my mid 70's series 3 swb with drum brakes ?
If so I will drop down to repco and get 4. Maybe they also do the wheel bearings.
Thanks

Whitehillbilly

Hi Whitehillbilly, it seems that a lot of conversions are front only. I opted to do front and rear. The hub seals will fit series 3 as well tho im not sure about stage 1 v8. The seals are the same size as land rover rtc 3510. The conversion hubs i have are based on s3 specs for bigger wheel studs and more meat around the wheel flange area for added strength for mounting the disc. If u buy seals etc from repco, bear in mind that because im in the trade I get better prices from them as well. Im quite happy with the quality of the seals too. Have fun with ur swb.

Cheers Rod

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JDNSW

10th September 2016, 12:26 PM

Hi Whitehillbilly, it seems that a lot of conversions are front only. I opted to do front and rear. The hub seals will fit series 3 as well tho im not sure about stage 1 v8. The seals are the same size as land rover rtc 3510. The conversion hubs i have are based on s3 specs for bigger wheel studs and more meat around the wheel flange area for added strength for mounting the disc. If u buy seals etc from repco, bear in mind that because im in the trade I get better prices from them as well. Im quite happy with the quality of the seals too. Have fun with ur swb.

Cheers Rod

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Hub seals (and bearings) changed in September 1980 from RTC3510 to RTC 3511 for all Series 3 except stage 1, which used RTC 3511 from the start. (Information from the parts book - don't blame me if yours are different, not only are the parts books not gospel, but the stub axles & hubs, or even the whole axle, may have been changed in service.)

John

whitehillbilly64

10th September 2016, 01:19 PM

Thanks for the info.
Boys at my local Repco give me a real good price :)

whitehillbilly

67hardtop

10th September 2016, 01:31 PM

Did a bit more painting today. Painted the rear hubs and disc rotors and the calipers with VHT caliper paint in satin black. Wanted to paint the calipers in that goldy zinc look paint but its not available. The gold they had was very gold and the silver was too silver for my liking so black it is. Looking good i think. Just waiting for my APT diff cover from debruiser to arrive and i'll be fitting the diff shortly. Funny coincibence...the s2a is from Mackay and thats where the diff cover is coming from. My old man would be pleased.

Cheers Rod

Just a thought...maybe i should have painted the calipers red like the diff cover......naaaahh
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67hardtop

10th September 2016, 01:32 PM

Hub seals (and bearings) changed in September 1980 from RTC3510 to RTC 3511 for all Series 3 except stage 1, which used RTC 3511 from the start. (Information from the parts book - don't blame me if yours are different, not only are the parts books not gospel, but the stub axles & hubs, or even the whole axle, may have been changed in service.)

John

I wonder what the differance is between the seals??

Cheers Rod

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JDNSW

10th September 2016, 05:13 PM

The later stub axles (and hubs) have a different bearing, same inner and outer from memory, and I assume the diameter is different.

John

67hardtop

27th September 2016, 09:42 PM

Yesterday while i was lowering the salisbury diff from the bench to the floor so i could put it on the saw horses so i could fit the APT diff cover i got of Debruiser. The diff slipped and took a chunk of my wrist skin with it and fell to the floor with a huge thump. Luckily for me i jumped up as it fell coz i only had chinese safety boots on, (thongs), the short end stub axle hit first and then the diff landed on the rear cover plate, denting it good. A bit of luck was on my side, (for once), i had stuffed a rag into the stub axle ends and fitted the flange hub caps over them. The cap got damaged but the stub axle and thread was undamaged, thank goodness, coz i dont have a spare rear stub axle. So i lifted the diff up 💪 onto the saw horses and removed the cover. No damage to crown wheel. Fitted the APT cover and the supplied bolts wouldnt go all the way in. So i got a thread tap and cleaned out the threads and refitted the cover. Then i painted the cover satin black coz white is too lairy.

Couple pics below⤵

Cheers Rod

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Homestar

28th September 2016, 05:14 AM

Lucky your reactions are still sharp mate or that could have been very nasty.

Looks great, next step is to bolt it back in where it belongs. :)

67hardtop

28th September 2016, 07:11 AM

Lucky your reactions are still sharp mate or that could have been very nasty.

Looks great, next step is to bolt it back in where it belongs. :)

Yeah was a wakeup call. Nearly lost some toes. Will wait for my mate to come over next time. I like my toes where they are😆

Cheers Rod

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JohnboyLandy

28th September 2016, 10:05 PM

mick88

29th September 2016, 09:52 AM

Rod you might need to get some steel capped socks to wear with your Chinese safety bootz!
Maybe a hi-viz shirt would help too!

Cheers, Mick.

Homestar

29th September 2016, 11:41 AM

Nice work Rod !!. I'll be following your thread when I "do" my 109 ex-army 71 2a, starting in Christmas Holidays. You make some interesting points, like the seals etc, all good knowledge and the use of Molasses too.

Can I ask why you chose the disc brake conversion kit you did, and not another brand such as Zeus ?

Cheers,
John

Hi John, I'm not sure what kit Rod is using, but there are plenty of options out there for disk brake conversions on a series LR. Be careful as some of them don't allow the standard steel wheels to be used afterwards but there are 2 kits that do, one of which is Aussie designed and made. Check Cookies thread out here - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/169784-series-disc-brake-conversion-i-did-my-way-4.html

It's a fully engineered system that includes (if you want) a dual diaphragm booster, new master cylinder to suit the disk brakes and if you just go for the front disks like I did on mine, new read wheel cylinders that make the front and rear bias correct.

I'm not saying don't use anyone else's though - I've never seen anyone disappointed with any disk brake kit they've fitted, so it comes down to budget, research and your personal choice in the end.

Personally I don't rate Zeus as a supplier because their service is terrible. I tried to order a disk brake conversion off them for my 101, but it all got too hard - they don't do email, so you have to call them during UK office hours and the 2 times I spoke to them, they wanted the full 800 quid up front even though they didn't have a kit ready to ship, then when they did, the said they would send it in seperate packages at different times as the components were ready and I'd have to pay more in freight than what I was originally quoted, so I gave up and put it in the 'too hard' basket.

Sorry to hijack your thread Rod, you can get back to your normal broadcast now. :)

67hardtop

29th September 2016, 04:25 PM

Hi, i used the Heystee kit as you can still use original steel wheels as you can with cookeys kit. Forbyn bros in the usa also do a kit which allows you to use dual calipers if you want. They also do a kit for fitting a gen 3 v8 and auto but their transfer case is very expensive. The zeus kit dosent allow u to run original series rims. Cookeys kit wasnt ready when i bought my kit from the netherlands. The heystee kit is now available in Australia from British Off Road. Dont know what the price difference is from when i bought mine but with freight it cost me just over 3k for the four wheel kit. It fits very good. Ive only trial fitted the fronts but its good. As Homestar said there are a few different kits available but they are pricy. I really like cookeys kit. I wont be getting mine engineered unless i have to.

Land Rover...living the series dream.

Cheers Rod

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JohnboyLandy

29th September 2016, 06:33 PM

67hardtop

2nd October 2016, 08:08 PM

Thanks for the info guys. I have 7.50 x 16 wheels, and Zeus state wheels must be 16inch 6j, which I assumed were the same, but I guess I don't know much about wheel sizes yet !!

Actually when I look at the Zeus website they are more expensive than I thought, so I will definitely compare them all before I go ahead.

Good to know about their level of "service" too, that's an important consideration.

Having an ex military vehicle, I'm interested in a kit that is completely reversible if need be, that's why the Zeus originally got my attention.

Cheers,
John

the problems with the zeus kit is, im led to believe, that the parts are not available in the aftermarket areas and wearing items, such as the discs, are available only through zeus. With the kit im using I can use all commonly available aftermarket defender parts, discs and pads ETC. When it comes time to do so it will be easy to get these bits anywhere Australia wide should the need arise. Say if I have a caliper fault then I just ring a wrecker and get a defender one sent to me. I thought about this,(unusual for me), when I ordered the kit. I will also be fitting braided brake hoses for durability and long life and better brake pedal feel. Just make sure to do you're research before u lash out the cash. I reckon ive chosen what suits me best. My plan is to get the s2a built and head off into the sunset with my No. 5 trailer in tow and just keep driving till ive satisfied my wander lust and seen even more of this wide brown land than ive already seen. I wont forget about Tassie either :wasntme:

Cheers Rod

JohnboyLandy

3rd October 2016, 09:20 PM

Thanks Rod, I appreciate your insight from your research, you comment about parts availability makes complete sense to me.

I start dismantling my '71 2a at Christmas, then I can get a better idea of how the drums brakes are and the booster.

Cheers,
John

67hardtop

13th October 2016, 03:51 PM

Ok, another day, another $1.50, plus bonuses. Today the weather was good, so whilst i waited, yet again,for my awning tent to be delivered, I decided to pack the new wheel bearings for the rear disc hubs. I packed them and fitted the seals and then fitted the hubs to the stubs. Tightened them up and fitted new lock washers. Then i fitted the calipers and brake lines, axles and new flanges and hubcaps. I test fitted a stock rim and it was great. Plenty of clearance. Finally the rear end is ready for fitting to the chassis. That will be for some other day. Next will be the front diff and disc conversion.
Finally got some motivation.
Need lots more now😆😆.

Couple pics⤵

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

19th October 2016, 09:58 AM

I went into the carport shed thingy today intent on starting to rebuild the l/h swivel hub and fit it out for the disc conversion, but my heart wasn't in it today. I began by wire buffing the swivel hub seal retainer plate clean. The wire wheel caught it and tore it out of my hand and made the blood leak out of my thumb. That was enough for me. I put a band aid on and then went inside and thats where i'm staying today. It all seems to be overwhelming for me atm.
No, i'm not OK.

Cheers Rod

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Chops

19th October 2016, 06:30 PM

If you wear a pair of riggers gloves,, you'll not bleed ;)
Although,,, don't get caught in the machine :o

67hardtop

19th October 2016, 07:10 PM

Thanks for the advice Chops👍. I actually know, like so many others, the proper safety precautions i'm supposed to take, but like so many others, i didn't. I think its one of those "it'll never happen to me", things.
After i had a sook😢, and was feeling depressed😔, i thought a lot about how stupid i was😡, and also silly, not to take precautions, like i know i should, i got into doing some actual work on Betsy.
I cleaned up the swivel housing and stub axle and all the bits for it and started assembly of the left side. As i was fitting the swivel hub seal i broke a bolt that holds the seal plate on. I drilled the bolt out, and for once, i actually got the hole straight. I got the broken bit out and proceded to find a tap to clean the thread up. The thread was contaminated with some swarf from manufacturing.
Guess what i discovered?
The bolts are 1/4 BSF. Different thread than 1/4 UNF.
Looks the same but its not.
So i went to a local bolt joint, ( they were the ones who told me about the bolt thread), and they had, in stock, a 1/4 BSF plug tap. $8.40 later and i was heading home with the saviour in my hand. I know i've got some spare 1/4 BSF bolts somewhere, from another pair of swivel hubs i've pulled apart, some time or another. Just gotta find it. I used one from the r/h side for now. So i got it together and splashed a bit of paint around and took a couple pics. Still gotta pack the wheel bearings and clean and fit the caliper and brake pipe. Thats tomorrows job, as will be finding the spare bolts.
Couple pics⤵

Cheers Rod

Feeling better now😎.

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Chops

19th October 2016, 07:19 PM

Looking pretty spiffy there Rod.

67hardtop

22nd October 2016, 11:44 AM

Ok, yesterday i removed the disc and hub assy and packed the wheel bearings and fitted the seal, then fitted the hub and adjusted the preload on the bearings.
Yes, preload!
I then found out the flange mount threads were full of swarf from the machineing so i had to find something to protect the fresh grease and bearings, so i got a redarc stubby holder, i found that it fitted perfectly, so i used it to protect the work already done, fired up the compressor, cleaned out the holes, then ran a 3/8 BSF bottoming tap through the threads, (glad i did this as the threads were very dirty), then i checked the bearing grease, free from contaminants. All good.
Thanks for the free stubby holder, (given to me when our club, LRRegSA, visited the factory in Lonsdale a while ago) redarc, (everything else they sell is way over priced).
Then i located and cleaned up and regreased the old warn free wheeling hub for the left side.
Those FWH are very well made and i can see why they are called the strongest FWH for series vehicles.
They don't make 'em like that any more.
Just thinking they would look really good all polished up, the alloy and the brass centre bit. Hmmm...
Painted the caliper with satin caliper paint and hung it to dry.

This morning i trial fitted the caliper and brake pipe, then i re-fitted it after i was satisfied with the pipe location and security.
I loctited the caliper bolts, as they were originally on the defender, as they wont be coming off again. The only hard part about this whole conversion is fitting the front caliper bolts. Very fiddley.
If, in the future, i have to repair the wheel bearings or replace the disc, i will be seperating the caliper halves. Way easier.
I can even overhaul the calipers if i have to without having to remove the actual rear part of the caliper.
I re-fitted the brake pipes and flexible hose.
The pipe that connects from the caliper to the flexible hose is the original defender item so easily replaced.
The caliper is original defender as is the disc and of course the brake pads, so all parts are commercially available almost anywhere.
Thats what i like about this conversion.

Thats the left front done now. Just the right front to go now, then fit the front diff, then the hub assys, run new brake pipes to the s3 proportioning valve. I'll have a complete split braking system fitted.
Safety first.
Hmmm gotta fit a "brake fail" light to the dash when i re-do all the wiring. The switch is already in the prop. valve.
Few pics⤵

Cheers Rod

Continued⤵
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67hardtop

22nd October 2016, 11:51 AM

Couple more pics below.
Note the supervisor sneaking around checking up on me...cheeky little bugger...hehe
Then i had breakfast....yum yum. (I got a feeling thats why the supervisor was hanging around).

Love my best mate 💕

Cheers Rod

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Chops

22nd October 2016, 10:46 PM

Ahhhh,, breakfast of champions :cool:

67hardtop

23rd October 2016, 01:11 PM

Today i put a plastic bag over the left hand drive assy and stored it away.
Then i put the right hand swivel ball and hub into the vice and got all the bolts ready for final assy.
I had to replace the bolt that i borrowed, to replace the broken bolt, on the other hub.
Well, as luck would have it, i found all the bolts from the other s3 hubs, that i pulled apart as spares, in a plastic marg tub. Great.
So i sorted out what bits i wanted and cleaned them all up in petrol.
Stored the other bolts nuts and washers away again for spares. Never know when i'll need em. Tomorrow, depending on how im feeling, i'll start putting the drivers side swivel hub and brakes together.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

23rd October 2016, 08:32 PM

Well, i got bored watching the gold coast 300?2 days, so i went out and started to rebuild the r/h swivel hub.
This time i tapped all the threads out and cleaned them before i assembled it.
Re checked the swivel hub preload and adjusted it to 13 lbs pull.
I fitted the axle shaft and fitted the stub axle.
I loctited the bolts and sealed it with silastic coz i didn't have a gasket. Same as the left side.
I tapped out the flange bolt threads which were full of swarf like on the other one.
I cleaned up the hub and disc. Repacked the wheel bearings, fitted the new seal and fitted the hub and adjusted the preload on the bearings.
Fitted a new lock tab and lock nut.
Cleaned up and painted the lot. Ran out of light so will clean up the caliper and FWH tomorrow and fit them too.

Cheers Rod

Couple pics⤵

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67hardtop

24th October 2016, 10:52 AM

Today i finished off the r/h swivel hub assy. It's now ready to bolt to the diff housing as is the l/h one.
I cleaned up the r/h brake caliper and painted it.
I cleaned up and re greased the FWH and fitted it to the hub. Tested the FWH operation and its working as it should.
I learned to position the split pin differently this time.
Then i trial fitted the caliper. Fits good. Caliper bolts are close to the disc on the inside but a "mm" is as good as a "cm".
So i removed the caliper and loctited the bolts and refitted it. I have ground down a 13mm sidchrome (old sidchrome ) ring open ender specificly to tighten these bolts. They are the original defender multi hex bolts. I fitted the brake pads and clips and fitted a new braided brake flex line (+50mm), same as the other side. I then fitted the ball seal and touched up the paint here and there.
Im pleased with the outcome of this.
I said before i like this conversion.
Well worth the $$ i paid i think. But i'll only find out when Betsy's all back together.

I got one year left.

She HAS to be finished b4 17/11/17. 10 yr anniversary of my fathers passing.

As usual a couple pics⤵

Cheers Rod

Ps. I think im gonna have to change snoopy's job to "Chief of covert land rover operations"😅😅. See last pic.

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Ben_Burdett

24th October 2016, 12:06 PM

Great work rod

67hardtop

26th October 2016, 12:00 PM

Yesterday i had a clean up of the work bench as all the disc brake stuff, wheel bearings and swivel housings and bits were on it, now it's all gone from there, so a tidy up was in order. Did that. Amazing amount of crap surrounding all those bits. Had a couple of "ahhh is that where that was" moments. Then i unearthed the front diff housing and diff. Cleaned it up a bit and sprayed inox on the 9 nuts holding the diff in. Yes 9! One bolt broken off. A long one at the top. And its UNF not BSF as the book says. Seems i have been looking at an old book. I do have a newer book but it WAS clean. Hmmm. Anyway now i need to source a replacement long UNF "special bolt" and "special locking nut". The bolt is splined at the head end to lock into the diff housing. I also found stuck in the diff the remnants of a spring from the back of a seal. I pulled it out. I suppose i'll have to replace the pinion seal now. It's not leaking but you can guarantee it will if i dont replace it. I will also need to replace the axle seals at the ends of the housing as one was damaged and had allowed grease to escape into the diff from the swivel housing. I had filled them with some oil, some moly grease and a full shot of swivel grease so it was over full. Probably why the axles and uni's are in great shape. Well i've made a parts list for PCB Land Rovers so i better call Pete. A couple of pics below⤵

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

26th October 2016, 03:15 PM

Went and seen Pete at PCB Land Rovers and he had all the parts i needed in stock. He even gave me a special bolt and nut for the diff housing. Hes a good bloke is Pete. I picked his brain while i was there as well and found out a couple things i needed to know. I might go outside now and do some more work.....maybe🐢

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

26th October 2016, 03:16 PM

Forgot the pic⤵

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67hardtop

26th October 2016, 05:40 PM

I cleaned up the diff housing. Couldn't find a serial number anywhere, jyst some random number stamped into the diff carrier. I wiped the housing over with prepsol and dried it. Hung it up in the garage. Then i painted it with satin black spray can paint. Then i changed the pinion oil seal over on the diff. Man was that nut tight. I centre punch marked the nut, flange and the pinion so i get the preload back right. I fitted the seal and retightened the nut and secured it with a new split pin. Checked the preload. Feels right. Still have about 8th backlash and virtually no slop in the spider gears. There is a tiny bit of surface rust on one of the pinion gears but thats ok. I wiped over the diff carrier with prepsol and painted it too. Looking good. Couple pics⤵

Cheers Rod.

Did you spot the 'Land Rover Covert Operations Manager' (AKA Snoopy), spying on me??😅😅

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67hardtop

28th October 2016, 11:49 AM

I fitted the diff to the housing today. As i lifted the diff to put it in the housing a small piece of seal tension spring fell out. It must be the rest of the bit i pulled out the other day. I glued both sides of the new gasket with loctite no3 sealant. I painted the nuts over and fitted the side seals. Then i used a pair of orange nitrile mechanics gloves to stretch over the ends and keep crap out. Might fit it soon....maybe. gotta keep an eye on my besty for now while he recovers...

Cheers Rod

Couple pics⤵

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67hardtop

5th November 2016, 06:17 PM

Today i fitted the front diff and housing. I lifted it up sideways then turned it around and dropped it onto the front springs. Then i fitted the front u bolts and plates. I called in a favour from my friend Wayne with the vs clubby, and as luck would have it, he brought his tennant with him. Just as well. The front axle and hub assys were very difficult and heavy with the discs and calipers fitted. I greased the axle up and the seal so as to minnimise any damage, and slipped the axle in and fitted a couple of bolts to temporarily secure it. Then did the same to the r/h side. The axle was shorter (a small mercy), and although i had some trouble with the gasket turning, it fitted up good. Always gonna have trouble getting help from non mechanically minded ppl. Then came the big job. Fitting the salisbury with the discs. That was very heavy and lucky there was 3 of us. I dropped the r/h/r spring down at the back and lifted the diff into place under the chassis. Then we lifted the diff with a couple slings on the engine crane and lifted it through the chassis onto the left spring, then lifted it right up, and refitted the r/h/r spring onto it's hanger, and lowered the diff into place. I fitted the protector plates for the brake pipes and fitted the u bolts and plates. Secured the brake flex hoses. Wrapped it all up with plastic again and punched a couple holes underneath to drain any water that may get in. Put away my tools and took some panamax coz i've hurt my back...again. See how i go now with some rest. Trying to make some potato bake in my hooded barbi. See how that goes too....hope it works out. Im hungry...😆

Pics below⤵

Cheers Rod.

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67hardtop

5th November 2016, 06:20 PM

Continued⤵

Couple more pics⤵

Cheers Rod

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Ben_Burdett

5th November 2016, 06:44 PM

Looks great rod. I'm loving that there is a few of us on the forum rebuilding these series . It's really interesting to see how other people do things and also really helpful with all the photos for when your not sure about home somethings go back together.

67hardtop

5th November 2016, 07:12 PM

Potato bake worked well. Very yummy.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

5th November 2016, 07:16 PM

I suppose ill have to do the steering rods now and the dredded steering relay. Mine has a grease nipple on top. Was out of an ex military swb. My original is long gone now unfortunatly...

Cheers Rod

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Homestar

5th November 2016, 07:40 PM

67hardtop

8th November 2016, 03:25 PM

Today i decided to have a go at the brake piping. Some time ago i was at U pull it and they had a s3 in there with a siezed ford motor in it. It also had a cabstar box in it that had destroyed 5th gear. I deduced that as the motor siezed at speed it was what destroyed the gearbox. I could tell by the flat spots in the rear tyres. So i removed the dual circuit master cyl and had the foresight to take the brake pipes and the proportioning valve at the same time, along with the transfer case adaptor plate from the back of the box. I also got the front swivel s and axles and the rear axles as spares. I also got all the hubs as i needed to have studs for the heystee hubs. Ok back to the brakes. I eyeballed the s3 master cyl's position on my s3, (single circuit), to find where to locate the prop. valve. Its in the same spot as the original tee piece joiner for the brake switch and pipes. So i then used the original rear brake pipe as a guide and made up a new pipe. I left the end very long so i could bend the piping to suit the prop. valve position. I then secured the pipe with the original clamps but new screws. Then i bent up a new r/h/f pipe and secured it as well, leaving it longer for fitting to the prop. valve. They were the easy ones. The l/h/f was a lot more difficult as where the pipe was originally located i thought wasn't very good. It goes back to the x member under the engine and follows it around and then back up forwards to the joiner, like a big "U" shape. I didn't quite have enough pipe left, so i routed it across the front x member and then down the drivers side to the prop. valve. Perfect. I secured the pipe. I then mounted the prop. valve and then bent the ends of the pipes and cut and flared the ends and fitted them. Looks good. I painted the pipe clamps and i also put a protective coating on the pipe ends, where the flare tool grabs the pipe and damages the coating on it, so as to stop rust. Some pics below⤵

Cheers Rod.

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67hardtop

10th November 2016, 07:05 PM

Got stuck into it again this arvo. Cleaned up and painted the shockys. Cleaned up the bolts and washers. Fitted the fronts. Had to use a ratchet strap to lift up the front spring so i could fit the bottom of the shocks with new rubbers all round. I used another ratchet strap between the 2 front shocks to compress the bottom rubbers so i could fit the washers and split pins.
Then i fitted the rear shocks to the diff first. Used a ratchet strap again to fit the top of the shocks to the chassis. New rubbers here too. Antisieze grease on all the long bolts. Rubber grease on the new rubbers. All good. Painted the ends of the bolts and split pins and washers.
Getting there slowly.

I have some axle straps for the rear but i think they might be a bit short. They came with a job lot of parts i bought once upon a time. Does anyone know the proper length of the straps for a standard 109 soft top??

Cheers Rod

Pics⤵

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68s2alwb

10th November 2016, 08:41 PM

Hi Rod,

I bought straps for my 109" new from the Four Wheel Drives catalogue years ago - "AW11 Rear axle rebound straps suit 1954 to 1981 LWB".

They measure 37".

67hardtop

12th November 2016, 04:07 PM

Hi Rod,

I bought straps for my 109" new from the Four Wheel Drives catalogue years ago - "AW11 Rear axle rebound straps suit 1954 to 1981 LWB".

They measure 37".

Yep, just checked the two straps ive got. They are 35 1/2" long. They are about 2" too short, must be for an 88". I think i need the 37" ones, as the other alternative is 38 1/2", they will be too long. Does anyone wanna swap the shorter ones for longer ones? Must be new not used. Will pay one way postage...

Cheers Rod

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Lionelgee

12th November 2016, 04:57 PM

Hello Rod,

Does your vehicle have a military chassis/suspension? Or just the optional longer shackle hanger plates? People did install them for just that wee bit more clearance If so the straps will be even longer. One of my civilian Series 3 has the longer shackle hanger plates fitted while its other civilian stable mate has the stock standard ones. Military Extended Shackle plate - Part number: 537778
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1154/537778-MILITARY-EXTENDED-SHACKLE-PLATE.html

Sorry I cannot help you with the length because all I have is the metal tab ends and a nice bit of old webbing sticking out.

There is an old thread which goes over two pages that questions the need to have the check straps anyway - Accessed November 12th 2016 from http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/58058-axle-check-straps-question-2.html#post760551

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

12th November 2016, 06:52 PM

No Lionel, it's not an ex military, though it's the same colour. I wouldnt mind getting one extended shackle plate setup for my r/h/f spring to combat the sag it has. I cannot afford to get the springs reset now after spending over $6000 on Snoopy in the last couple of years. The standard parts book says there are actually 4 different length diff straps, 1 for 88" and 3 for 109", being one, for standard rover axle at 37", one, for ENV type axle at 38 1/2", and one, for salisbury type rear axle, listed in the back of a later parts book, but without a specified length. I would think that there would be a fifth one as well, specified, as you have said, for military 109" with the extended shackles. I dont have any parts book or schedule for military fitted series equipment. I wish i did coz i've got a funny looking wiring thing mounted next to and connected to the wiper motor on my replacement bulkhead which was of a series 2a ex military FFR. I suspect its a filter of some sort to stop radio interferance from the wiper motor.

Cheers Rod

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JDNSW

12th November 2016, 07:09 PM

67hardtop

12th November 2016, 07:31 PM

This afternoon i decided to tackle the dreaded steering relay. I pulled the top and bottom bolts out and took the ends off. I had already removed both arms. I found the seals in these end caps. The bottom seal fell off when i took the arm off. The top seal was removed easily as well. I wrapped an old tee shirt around the bottom of the relay and gently, (not), tapped the shaft out with my copper 3lb hammer. It came out easily. That spring is huge! And very strong. I then cleaned everything with petrol except the split bushes. I just wiped them clean. I wire brushed 45 yrs of crap of the relay housing. Then i cleaned up all the bolts and the arms. I'm amazed at how this actually works. It cannot fail unless a bush disintergrates or the shaft breaks. Good design. PITA but a good design. With everything cleaned up i inspected the shaft for wear on the seal surfaces. There is a slight groove but i can't do much about it. I cleaned up the seal surfaces, first with 120 grit, then 240 grit wet 'n' dry paper. It cleaned up fairly well...see pic. Ive laid all the bits out and taken a couple pics. Then i've undercoated the housing and it's now drying on a hook. Will have to cut a couple gaskets and source some seals on Monday.

I noticed that my relay had a grease nipple fitted at the top of it and in pic 5 you can see the holes where the grease comes out and into the relay. It also has a bolt on the side of the housing, (you can see in the pics), that goes into a groove that's on the inside of the housing, where, i suppose, the grease is retained. I don't think its standard fitment, but,
as i had said, it was of an ex military s2. Is this standard for s2 military vehicles?

Not sure how i'm gonna collapse that spring yet but i'll work it out. I've seen many "how to's" on u tube, using hose clamps and things.

Cheers Rod

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Lionelgee

12th November 2016, 10:51 PM

You need to bear in mind that the longer shackle plates on the front will change the caster angle of the steering - the military chassis withthe longer shackle also has a longer dumb iron on the front of the chassis.

Whether this will result in significant steering issues will depend a a number of other issues.

John

Hello John & Rod,

Yes, there is a cautionary note on the bottom of the Expedition Land Rover webpage about how the steering can be effected by the longer military shackle plates Accessed November 12, 2016 from, Optimizing Series Land Rover suspension (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/leafSprings.htm).

It is quickest if you scroll down until the photograph and find the second sentence below the photograph which starts with "...The Land Rover military shackle is two inches longer..."

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

13th November 2016, 04:04 PM

So a little update. I've reassembled the steering relay without any press or any other method of mechanically compressing that huge spring. What I did was i fitted a hose clamp to the bottom split bush. I then fitted the bottom plate and bolts and sealed it with silastic. Then i dropped the brass washer in. I then put the steel washer onto the shaft, located the spring on the shaft and set about thinking how i could compress it. I grabbed a steel tubular spacer out of a series g/box and put it into the vice. I then put the top retainer plate on top and sat the split bushes on top of the plate. Then i put the washer on top of the bushes and had a hose clamp squashed slightly into an oval shape at the ready. I put the spring and shaft on top of the washer and bushes and while holding the loose clamp, i pushed down on the spring, until it was passed the point where the bushes would lock into the shaft. I dropped the clamp down tapped the bushes together with a pair of pliers, (i couldnt reach the hammer), then i pushed the hose clamp down and it held the bushes together. I relaxed for a moment. Then i pushed down on the spring again and tightened up the clamp so the bush would be closed together. Then i centralised the spring and fitted the assembled shaft to the housing. See pics. Loosened the bottom clamp a little then tapped the shaft in. I unscrewed the clamp and removed it and tapped the shaft all the way down till the top bushes were in the housing. I loosened the clamp right off and drove the shaft home. I dropped the brass washer in and sealed and fitted the top plate. Sweet. I can't believe i did it without a press. Where there's a will there's a way. It took me a few goes to get the spring and bushes clamped on but i got there eventually. I had to wear a glove on my left hand to push the shaft down coz it was hurting my hand.
I touched up the paint and its now drying on the hook. Tomorrow i'll get the seals, i hope, and then fit it to the chassis. Job done...

Cheers Rod

Some pics⤵

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mick88

13th November 2016, 06:19 PM

Rod,
do you know if the nipple on top was for injecting grease or oil into the relay?

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

13th November 2016, 07:32 PM

Im not sure Mick but i filled it with grease about 6 yrs ago coz it was so stiff at the time. It worked coz water came out when i put the grease in.

Cheers Rod

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JDNSW

14th November 2016, 06:46 AM

They are supposed to be filled with oil. Grease is better than water or nothing, but the problem with grease is that it does not soak into the fibre bushes, so they eventually will be running dry, wearing more rapidly.

John

67hardtop

14th November 2016, 03:09 PM

Todays effort was to fit the new seals to the steering relay. I sourced these from CBC bearings, part number
TC12043.
They were a tight fit on the shaft, as i would want, and fitted correctly into the top and bottom plates. Great. Now to fill with oil. What a miserable job that is. In the end i had removed two top bolts, opposite each other, put the relay in the vice, at an angle, so one hole was higher than the other. This was in an effort to get the air to come out as the oil went in. Hmmm. In the end i got a nozzle of a sealant cartridge and cut about 8mm of the end. I screwed it into the bolt thread hole in the relay, and using a Nulon gearbox additive tube filled with gear oil, i slowly added oil into the nozzle, till it drained into the relay. Oil bubbles were coming out the other hole, as all the while, i was moving the lever around, and getting the air to come out. Cool. When there was no more bubbles and oil was coming out the top hole, i removed the nozzle, and let the oil settle to the lower bolt's level, so as to keep some air inside the relay, to allow for heat expansion. I then fitted the relay to the chassis. I put inti sieze grease on the two top bolts and tightened them up. I had trouble getting the four lower bolts to start coz of the paint in the threads. I tapped the threads clean, put anti sieze onto the bolts and fitted them. I then fitted both the arms to the relay at 90 deg. from each other as the s2a is supposed to be. I noted that s3 are different in that the arms are about 80 ish deg. I touched up the paint and that was it, done!

I then checked out my steering tubes.
I need to get 4 new tie rod ends.
I removed the old ones and noted that the thread inside the tubes, dont start for about an inch inside them.
The part where the clamp is has no thread.
Is this the later type of tie rod end that i need to get?
The thread on the old ends have a shoulder, (see pics), but the clamps were still clamping the threaded part of the ends.
Ive read that there were changes made to these ends and steering tubes.
I would like to make sure i get the right ones.
I have the tubes soaking in molasses atm to clean them up. I will have to find where i can source the correct tie rod ends.

Cheers Rod

NOTE;
Pic 4, shows the threaded end of the tie tod. This is actually the original tie rod, fitted from the factory, with its undercoat and top coat, in the vehicles original colour, light grey. So the steering tubes are still original.

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JDNSW

14th November 2016, 07:17 PM

The later type has both the tube and the TRE threaded all the way, but the earlier type has the unthreaded part of the tube much longer than the unthreaded part of the TRE. Although the clamp is not right at the end of the tube, because the bit beyond it will be bent in further, the bit that closes the most will be right at the end. The longer unthreaded bit in the tube is actually so it doesn't clamp on the thread - it has, or should have, clearance from the thread, even when the clamp is tightened.

John

67hardtop

26th November 2016, 10:53 PM

Well during the week i ordered 2x l/h and 2x r/h threaded tie rod ends from for Betsy from England. At least i'll get the right ones.

Today i fitted 4 ex military series 2a wheels to the chassis. They fitted beautifully over the disc brake setup. So, to all the nay sayers, series wheels DO fit on the heysyee disc conversion. I will have to adjust the steering stops in a bit as there is still a lot of room between the chassis and the tyres. Im really happy with the fit of the conversion setup and especially being able to run stock series wheels. See the pics.

Now the chassis is back on wheels and off the rotisserie. I spose i should fill the diffs and swivel housings with oil now before i forget. I might use half oil and a whole shot of swivel grease as well in the fronts. Not sure atm. It's what i had before in the 2a swivels. I also have breathers on the swivel housings as well. That will stop them sucking in water when tyey are hot, i hope.

I feel that i've finally acomplished something now with my rebuild.

Im pleased with myself.

Cheers Rod
⤵⤵⤵

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67hardtop

26th November 2016, 10:54 PM

Couple more pics⤵

Cheers Rod

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mick88

27th November 2016, 06:21 AM

It's going together well Rod.
Well done!

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

27th November 2016, 03:38 PM

Hi Mick, i just remembered that you wanted some pics of the marks cabstar transfer case adaptor i have so i dug it out and snapped a few. I hope they turn out ok.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

30th November 2016, 03:21 PM

Another job done for Betsy. I got a pintle hook adaptor for the tow receiver i have on Betsy. This way i can tow my No.5 trailer or any other trailer. It will also fit in the front receiver i will use as a recovery point for towing out discos and toyotas and nissans...lol.
Just gotta make the lunette ring turn now.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

8th December 2016, 05:25 PM

Another little job done today. I fitted the 4 new tierod ends and assembled the main steering rod with the steering damper loop thingy and painted the rod ends and clamps. I also painted the steering damper as well. Will fit them tomorrow. No pics taken today so will take some tomorrow after assembly. Hope the steering box overhaul kit hurries up and gets here. Thats the next job to be done.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

9th December 2016, 11:21 AM

As promised, (to myself), i fitted the steering rods and steering damper. I put new rubbers on the damper that i had in my toolbox, that i saved from when i fitted one new rear sway bar tie bar to a commodore that had a broken one. They come in a kit of two bars etc. Had them in the toolbox for years. Saved me buying 4 new rubbers. I checked the toe setting and found it to be toeing in 3mm. I adjusted it to 1 mm toe in, 1/2 a turn on the track rod. I touched up the paint and took a couple happy snaps.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

15th December 2016, 09:31 PM

A couple days ago, i got some bits from old blighty. Unfortunatly they were in blue bags. The fuel tank mount bolt kits, and the two steering box overhaul kits, (i need one for the s3 as well). After searching through various books i found out how the single bolts at the rear of the tanks are supposed to be fitted. So i checked my parts and found the large flat washer doesnt fit on the stepped bolt like it should. They supplied a 5/16 washer instead of a 3/8 washer. So i drilled the 2 washers out to 3/8. Then i found that only one of the two fuel tanks had the centre rear hole drilled to 5/8, and as the rubber insulators are stepped, I had to go buy a 5/8 stepped shank drill bit, ($47.00), just for one hole. I spose u never know when u might wanna drill another 5/8 hole somewhere. So i drilled the hole, painted it, made up the two brackets for the top of the chassis to strengthen the mount points, see pics, and painted them too. The pics dont show the other 6 bolts and washers etc. Maybe tomorrow i might have a go at fitting the fuel tanks.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

16th December 2016, 03:26 PM

So after a visit from 68s2alwb, i decided to try to fit the fuel tanks. Now i have had these two fuel tanks in the chassis before it was sandblasted and painted to trial fit them and check them. Was all good. Not so this time. The drivers side tank was good. Went straight in, bolted up perfectly, even with the single bolt at the rear of it. Now the passengers side. The fuel tank just didnt want to fit. It was almost like one of the outriggers had been bent inward about 2mm. So after some jacking under the tank and aligning the bolt holes with a couple of screwdrivers and forcing with the 3lb leather faced hammer, i got the front bolts in. The rear single bolt was another story. I had to force the tank downward to insert the rubber mounting bush, try to align it with the hole and at the same time, align the hole up and then fit the stepped bolt. All done. Lots of cursing later and i managed to fit the strengthening plate and the washer and nut. I tightened all the bolts and nuts. Got the penetrol spray out and gave all the bolts a squirt. Will paint later. Couple pics⤵

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

16th December 2016, 06:20 PM

Dunno where my pics went. But here they are again

Cheers Rod

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Chops

16th December 2016, 07:08 PM

Looking good Rod. Two tanks will certainly take you a long way. :D

68s2alwb

16th December 2016, 11:20 PM

Hey Rod, it looks like I might take you up on those S3 hubs you've got as one of my original hubs is knackered. A can't remember if you said or not, but do you have studs for those hubs as well?

67hardtop

17th December 2016, 08:47 AM

The s3 hubs have no studs. The s2a hubs are complete with bearings as well. I have 4 of each.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

17th December 2016, 09:43 PM

This afternoon i dug out both steering boxes i have for the s2a. Both are late build boxes. I checked out both boxes and decided to do up my original box. So i cleaned up the outside and about 49 years of dirt and crap came off. Then i stripped the box as per the instructions in the workshop manual. Then i cleaned all the inside stuff. I even stripped the top column bearing apart and cleaned it up too. I regreased the top bearing and put together again. I cleaned the outer housing of about 5 coates of paint. Cleaned the inside of the tube. Then i cleaned up all the other bits that needed painting. Painted them satin black. Then i cleaned up the box itself. Loverly. I then started re assembling the box. It all went together well. No wear to speak off. Not bad for a 49yr old box. It still had some oil in it when i pulled it apart. I discovered that i shouldnt have pulled the seal retaining washer out as its staked in at assembly. So i had to refit it with the new seal and stake the washer again. Next time i'll just hook out the old seal, which is just an 'o' ring, and replace it that way. Anyway i put it all together and reset the end float. I needed one less shim. I fitted new gaskets to both sides of the shims as the manual says. Put it all together and reset the sector shaft end float. Checked everything. All good. I gave the outer housing another coat of paint. Took a couple pics. And it was 9.30pm. Time to relax. Im happy with todays effort.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

18th December 2016, 09:50 AM

I think i overdid it yesterday. Woke up this morning with a sore back and feet. Im finding it hard to walk atm. I should have done the rebuild today but i was impatient. Ahh well i can spend the day in front of the tele now resting...

Cheers Rod

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Johnno1969

18th December 2016, 10:34 PM

Ahh well i can spend the day in front of the tele now resting...

The cricket's been on, too!

I hope you're feeling better soon.

67hardtop

19th December 2016, 05:41 PM

The cricket's been on, too!

I hope you're feeling better soon.

Feeling a lot better today. Back into it maybe tomorrow...

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

23rd December 2016, 11:07 PM

I got an early Christmas pressie today...thanks Mick88. Might try fit it tomorrow if its not too hot too early. I would really like to go away for a couple days but the s3 is making funny noises in the transfer case. That will be another job for another day...to disgnose and fix

Cheers Rod.

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mick88

24th December 2016, 07:54 AM

Good to hear it arrived Rod, only three days and at a very hectic time of the year too! Good old Australia Post have done well.

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

24th December 2016, 08:18 AM

I was very surprised it arrived so soon actually. Ive had parcels take 2 weeks from NSW and 2 days from NZ. Strange at times.
So bloody hot here atm. I think i may have a kidney stone in my left kidney. Its hurting like hell atm. Im drinking gallons of water now to flush it through.

Merry Christmas to you Mick, and to all who read my posts.

Cheers Rod 🎅🎅🎅

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67hardtop

2nd January 2017, 01:09 PM

I have slowed down a bit as the kidney stones have resulted in the re appearance of my depression. I do struggle with it a bit but I find solace in food. I cant eat much due to gastric bypass surgery back in 2003. I really wish I could channel my want, or need, for food into motivation to finish off my land rover. Since the kidney stone ive put 6 kgs on. More triggers for my depression. Its a catch 22 situation. This morning I have spent the last 3 hours reading through the Klonk thread. I am amazed at some ppls motivation, and quality of their work. I have no such aspirations as my expertise doesnt extend to these heights. I am merely trying to get this old girl to be as rust free as possible and to stop when I push the brake pedal after going through water. Id also like to get the paint work to be a bit nicer. Im only working in my open driveway here as i dont have a flash shed or workshop. I have all the body panels sitting on a pallet in my back yard and the s3 tub sitting up on its end against a wall in the driveway. I've got the other bits in a shed which I have to keep a clear access through as its the only way to get into my dwelling. I cant call it a home coz it doesn't feel like one. I live in the rear part of a house thats been divided into 2 units. I now have to contend with my 2 trailers blocking my driveway as the new tennant wants to use the space I had them parked in behind my bedroom, which is actually on his part of the property. The trailers have been there for 5 yrs. Now withthe rolling chassis and 2 trailers and the s3 parked in the driveway, my car parked in the street, ive got no room to work. So I have to move the s3 onto the street and the trailers as well, they are parked with the no.5 drawbar under the s2a chassis and the other under the no.5. The driveway is sloped downwards as well, just enough to make life more difficult for me to move the trailers around. It sux. Ill have to sell my trailer now I think. No, not the no.5. I'll have to fix the rust in the front of the tray first. I have the repair patches of steel but need to decide if I cut the rust patches out or weld on top. The tray is of an old HQ 1 tonner so its very heavily built and the floor is 3mm thick steel. Decisions decisions. I need to make one pretty quickly. I need room. Well. Time for lunch. My rebuild will be what its going to be I spose. I'll try my best to do my best, if only I could get moving again.

Ive had my rant at myself now. I might feel better after food.

Cheers Rod

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JohnboyLandy

3rd January 2017, 07:27 PM

Hey Rod, I hope you feel better soon.

With my 2a "refresh" I'm still in disassembly phase, so I am some way behind your progress. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the tub off, then the fun begins.

I don't call my work a restoration, I think refresh is a better word for it, and it sounds along the lines of yours. I am aiming for rust free chassis and firewall etc, new paint and rebuilt brakes. I will also refurbish the steering, and make the wipers work as best they can, all for safety. I will also redo wheels bearings, seals and swivel ball seals too. I'll do some electrical work too, like halogen headlights, and probably re-wire a fair bit of it, if not all of it.

I hope you manage to get back on to your project soon.

Cheers,
John

Ben_Burdett

3rd January 2017, 08:25 PM

Hi Rod. Hope you are feeling better. I find that sometimes if I have a rest from working on my land rover for a week or two I then get keen about it again and can't stay out of the shed.

All the best mate. I look forward to reading your next update

67hardtop

11th January 2017, 06:36 PM

Today i got into Betsy's heart. I started pulling the motor apart. Now just a bit of background, the motor was running great, believe it or not the motor only had one little oil leak, coming from the plate on the rear of the camshaft thats held on with 3 bolts. So im thinking it only needs a bit of a look at and some gaskets replaced. She doesn't blow smoke or even use abnormal amounts of oil. Maybe a pint in 6000 miles. Pretty good aye? Hmmmm.... Well i got the manifolds off without any trouble. Pulled all the accessories off. Pulled the electronic dizzy off. Still no probs. Then i pulled the oil filler tube off. All good. Pulled the fuel pump off and the plate its bolted to. I gazed into the camshaft. Number 4 inlet cam lobe and roller follower have worn through the hardened surface. Bugger. Need a new cam and followers.
I haven't pulled the block apart yet.
So i pulled the head off. No surprises there. I had the head done up in 2008 by a mate. He fitted holden black 6cyl exhaust valves coz he couldnt get original ones. Bronze guides. Hardened seats and reground the inlets. Machined the head. All good....except when i went to pull the choke light thermo switch out i broke one bolt off and destroyed the thermo switch. Bugger x2.
So then i checked the crank end float.
It almost fell out.
I have got 2.85mm end float. My heart sank. 😭.
I was hoping for a little freshen up but now i'm prob up for a crank regrind and oversize thrust bearings. Bugger x3. This is starting to suck. I'll have to drill out and re thread the broken bolt, which means i gotta buy a couple taps. No probs there. But i'm not sure what to do about the cam and followers. I have another engine here out of a s3 but its condition is unknown. I don't have room to pull apart another motor let alone this motor.

I knew there was a reason i didn't want to start this phase of the freshen up on Betsy 😢.

This is gonna cost me money i don't have...

Cheers Rod

Edit..i know why ppl put holden motors in these things. So easy to fix if they stuff up...grrr

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chazza

12th January 2017, 08:16 AM

Hard luck!

Just think how beautifully it will run when it has been reconditioned :D

Cheers Charlie

67hardtop

12th January 2017, 01:50 PM

Sooo... rang trs today. They wanted $395 for a matched second hand cam and followers out of a 200 or 300 tdi. I told them that i could get new for less than that price, so he came back with a figure of $275. Genuine parts etc etc not aftermarket chinese he said. Hmmm. I might get some more information first. Im only on disability pension so money is extremly tight. I pay half my pension just in rent so i gotta be very careful. Anyway, search begins.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

13th January 2017, 06:05 PM

Ok the good news....there isn't any. I pulled the rest of the engine apart starting with the camshaft. Well no3 inlet and no4 exhaust lobes and rollers are stuffed. Worn thru the hardening. No3 inlet roller was particularily bad. Thats the least of my problems. I took of the sump and found these thrust bearings in there, pic 1. This explains the 2.85mm end float. Its supposed to be 0.004 to 0.006th 😯.

So i continued disassembly and found this, the middle crank cap, pic2 😕.

So continuing on i removed the rear main seal caps and rear crank cap. Marked and undid the conrod caps. Removed the front cap and removed the crank. The crank has been reground. Mains are 010 under. Big ends are 040 under😯. I haven't removed the pistons and i probably won't. The engine block is totally buggered. The crank has ground itself into the block, pic3.

The crankshaft has ground itself away also, with the rear thrust bearing surface totally worn away on the crankshaft, see pic4. More than 1.0mm of material is missing from the crank thrust surface going by the other side of the crank, see pic5. So the crank is stuffed. Beyond reclaiming, as is the engine block.

I need my happy pills back. How depressing. And the motor ran so sweet and quietly. No sign at all of the problems i've found. It sux. Gotta find another motor now.

Hmmmm...that's why they fit holden motors.

Cheers Rod

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Chops

13th January 2017, 06:28 PM

Damn, thats a bugger Rod.
I hope you can find another motor for to fit. Are they hard or easy to find,,, I'm guessing pretty hard :(

bee utey

13th January 2017, 06:35 PM

Many years ago I had a Falcon motor with similar wear. I just had the thrust face cleaned up on the crank and hand made packing pieces to support the new thrust segments away from the block face out of suitable sheet steel. That motor ran well for years like that.

Disco-tastic

13th January 2017, 07:06 PM

Hmmm that sucks. As they say, ignorance is bliss!

I know very little about motors, but if it was running sweetly with all those problems, like bee utey suggests, could you not fit oversized bearings ground to suit, with a new(er) cam and crank?

67hardtop

13th January 2017, 07:13 PM

I spoke to a friend of mine who used to recondition engines for years and he said it was basicly scrap. The crank especially as the big ends are maxed out at 40th under and need regrinding again and also the thrust surface could be repaired but the cost would be way too much. The block could be machined and a thicker thrust bearing could be made but again cost is very high. If it was a one of a kind motor very rare etc then id get it fixed but its not. Id like to do a 200tdi conversion but thats out of budget too unless someone wants to donate one (complete) to me. In the end its still a 50yr old land rover that will never be worth what ive spent on her so far...

Cheers Rod

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chazza

13th January 2017, 07:31 PM

...
Hmmmm...that's why they fit holden motors.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

Hard luck Rod, I am sure you will find a better engine somewhere; if you lived closer to me you could have one of mine.

Don't be too hard on Rover, these are very good engines when they are looked after and will last much longer than a red-motor. I can't for the life of me think what caused wear like that, unless someone sabotaged it with abrasive!

Advertise in the Markets and someone will have one. I agree with your cobber; it is not worth keeping,

Cheers Charlie

Homestar

14th January 2017, 08:02 AM

Yeah, look around for a complete runner in known good condition - they are out there. Put a wanted ad up in the markets section and maybe a PM to the Ho Hars to see if they have one?

Even finding a complete vehicle for sale cheap that's only good for parts with a rusted chassis, etc may yield a decent engine. It's not hard to get one running in situ to check it - take your carby, fuel pump, battery and some fresh fuel and maybe a container of cheap oil and that's about all you'll need to get one running that's been sitting for yonks to see what it runs like.

All the best.

mick88

14th January 2017, 08:17 AM

Considering how much wear it has, it is incredible that it was running so sweet. They are a well built, tough little donk.
You should pick one up, they are about.

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

14th January 2017, 08:35 AM

Got my eye on a s3 109 diesel van complete less gbox and fairey overdrive. Owner bought it for the overdrive and will prob put the box in his s2a. Hes done his 2a up. Looks very good from pics ive seen. Id like to see it in the flesh so to speak.
I havent seen the s3 so I dont know its overall condition, I just know it does run. Im only interested in the motor really anyway.
Im hoping he makes up his mind soon and doesnt want too much coz I aint got much nowadays what with Snoopy having an operation 3 months ago and im now paying it off for 12 months. That took the last of my savings, and my part time work is very part time as well atm. I hate being injured, and old, and.....

Ahh well....the song comes to mind...."always look on the bright side of life....."

Cheers Rod :p

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67hardtop

14th January 2017, 01:15 PM

Ok diesel van can be bought. Need to return gbox and transfer when removed. Will have to swap it over to diesel now. Its what i really wanted in the first place as water wont stop it as long as the intake is hi n dry. Water crossings in a petrol are a nightmare. Lots of prep work and one little drop in the right place and its stuck there. This is great. Now i just need a car trailer to pick it up. Anyone here in SA got one. I need to get it tomorrow morning as its the only time that is available to pick it up, coz my s3 rego runs out monday night and i wont be able to pay it for a couple months now.

Woohoo im happy again😆

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

15th January 2017, 04:25 PM

Ok dokey. Today with the help of a fellow LRRegSA member, Robert, i picked up the s3 diesel van. I fashioned a fan belt out of an ockey strap by undoing the clamp wire at both ends and removing the hooks. Then joined them together using the same clamp wires and, voila, a fan belt between the crank and fan as there is no alt. fitted. Then bolted and insulated the two wires from the alt. together and she cranked over. Squirt of "start ya bastard" and off she went. Noisy bugger of a thing. So we let her idle for a while and warm up a bit. Then came the job of removing it from the back yard from under a huge walnut tree. Not a job for the faint hearted. Not much manoevering room. 15 point turn and we got her out from under the tree and then she stalled. It would NOT restart. So the diagnostics began. Now I'm not a diesel mechanic, but i know a little bit about old school diesels. No fuel. So the search began. Plenty fuel in the tank. Nothing at the injector pump. So hand pumped the lift pump. Nothing. So the search continued. Cracked the outlet line. Zip. Searching the fuel line and i found another filter under the floor in front of the tank. I pressurised the fuel tank by blowing in the broken breather hose. Still nothing, but i noticed a drop of fuel in the middle of the plastic, (another great pommy idea), fuel lines. The fuel line had cracked just where it joins onto the steel pipe next to the joiner on the inlet of the filter in front of the tank. Sucking air. So i detatched the plastic line and fitted a piece of 1/4 rubber fuel hose over the break, and then started blowing in the tank again and finally i'm getting fuel to come thru. So i blow the fuel thru to the lift pump and then i prime the whole system and bleed the air out of the system. Its funny how ppl dont understand that a diesel wont run with air in its fuel lines. I cracked what looked like 2 bleed screws on the injector pump and bled the air out with the hand primer on the fuel pump. Then i got Robert to crank her over while i cracked the injector lines. She sprung into life and was running better than before. Great. Finally got the old girl on the trailer. Then we secured the roof and tub onto the chassis with a ratchet strap and did the same with the rear tailgate and doors, coz no latches and tailgate locks, with another ratchet strap. I secured the van onto the trailer with 2 more ratchet straps and a chain for Justin (case). Didn't get any pics coz left the phone at home, (i thought). Almost uneventful trip home, except for one of our new country men driving a new camry who thought it a good thing to scream up beside me while pulling up to a red light and cut in front of me and expect my s3 with loaded car trailer to stop on a dime. Reckon there was about 50thou clearance between my roo bar and his rear bumper. Dick head! And i let him know it too!! Where are those train horns when u need em, (certain 101 owner who shall remain nameless). Anyway got her home and in the driveway. Now the job starts. Gotta strip her down and part her out. Tub is stuffed. Roof and sides are good. Chassis seems ok. Couple repairs at the back. Gotta check the rear diff ratio as it was going a bit fast in low range first gear. Maybe it's got a 3.54 salisbury in the back?? Hope so :D. Straight to the (pool room) s2a. It has lower profile tyres fitted so who knows. I'll keep u all informed as to what i find out over the coming (years, weeks) days.

Cheers Rod

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67hardtop

15th January 2017, 04:26 PM

SAVIOUR For ALL DIESEL ENGINES...

Cheers Rod
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67hardtop

15th January 2017, 08:12 PM

Ok checked the diff...10x47...bugga. i had hoped, but not to be. Chassis is rusted where rear x member welded to rear rails. Bugga no.2.
Removed a whole heap of bits out the rear including a '71 ser2a rear bulkhead to suit tray top that had seat belt mounting brackets fitted. Also a couple doors with really rust free frames. Guess where they're going. Lots of galv tub cappings and rubbing strips. Got a couple reversing lampsin Good nick and the protector plates. And a truck cab roof in reasonable condition with holes where the tropical roof was fitted. Got floor plates and toolbox lids and catches. And a set of seats that a couple need recovering. I need them so i can get rid of the commodore front seats in my s3. Its a pity he wants the gbox back. Feels really good. No speedo so i dont know how many kms the motor may have done. Im happy with my purchase. Very broke now.

Cheers Rod

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Homestar

15th January 2017, 08:28 PM

But at least you've sorted the engine issue quickly. There's always a bright side. :)

Sell on what you don't want as quickly as you can to get a few dollars back.

67hardtop

26th January 2017, 03:38 PM

Today i started stripping the s3 diesel i got for the engine replacement for Betsy. I removed the roof and sides. Removed the damaged rear tub. Gotta strip that first coz got nowhere to put it. Gonna have heaps of clean alloy for the scrap yard. Next will be the doors and front wings. Couple pics. Oh i slashed my hand on some sharpened up panel. I reckon they pay someone specially, to go around when they are making the vehicle, to sharpen up the bloody edges on these things.

Cheers Rodhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/236.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/237.jpg

67hardtop

26th January 2017, 10:18 PM

Hmmm a thought just occurred to me, how am i going to supply vacuum to my brake booster? Diesels dont have vacuum in the inlet manifold for such things. Can anyone tell me does the 200 tdi run a vac pump of the engine or the back of the alternator, and if the engine, where is it driven from? Also the diesel engine i have runs the exhaust out from the side of the manifold and exits through the lhf wing. Can i still run the petrol motor extractors or not? Its starting to stress me out now. Maybe i can run a turbo setup of a 200 or 300tdi? Anyone tried or done this yet? Please let me know.

Cheers Rodhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/216.jpg

Lionelgee

26th January 2017, 11:05 PM

Hello Rod,

Having a Series 3 diesel that I wanted to upgrade to a dual circuit system with a booster I have been down this road myself. You have two options. 1) buying a Peugeot vacuum pump that drives off a pulley from the fan belt. or 2) get a 4DBI or similar Isuzu alternator with a vacuum pump fitted to it.

There is a member here who wrote a thread on the Peugeot option - the part is also the same as an English car.

I decided to go the Isuzu way - then the clutch died more than just the hydraulics and I bought another Land Rover that was in better condition.

I will try to find the thread. It might have been a blue camper from memory. Just checked it was a member by the name of "Phin" I replied to him in 2014 and that is the last time Phin posted .....

The thread is under the subject Series III Dutch Camper and the part about the Peugeot pump starts at this link https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/166379-new-project-1974-dutch-camper-conversion-6.html#post1838007

I found it was a cheaper option to go for the Isuzu alternator with the vacuum pump.

Oh BTW the later Series III diesel - a bit after 1976 did have a butterfly valve integrated into the system that provided vacuum for the booster. However, they wore out and become unreliable. Now it would be extremely hard to buy parts for.

Kind Regards
Lionel

rangieman

27th January 2017, 05:45 AM

Lionelgee

27th January 2017, 09:33 AM

Just on a side note Phin was last on 25/1/17;)

Hello Rangieman,

That is good to know. :)

It must have just been the end of the thread then. It would be great to have an update of the completion of the work and any adventures experienced - since it is a camper!

Hint Hint Phin :p

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

27th January 2017, 01:20 PM

Well i found out today that s3 tubs are put together a lot stronger than s2a tubs. They use rivets in places where s2a just had spot welds. Especially where the front section of the tub joins the floor and where the tool box sections are joined to the front. Probably got something to do with where the inertia reel seatbelts are mounted. Very strong and hard to break apart. In the end i had to use an angle grinder to cut the section apart so i could put it in the trailer for the scrappy one day. The rivets that hold the ends of the galv stiffener plates under the tub were the same material. Very hard to even cut off with the cold chisel. I ended up grinding them off too. When i pulled my s2a tub apart i just gave it a few hits with the hammer and it fell to bits. They were just aluminium rivets. The s3 rivets were steel. Anyway its done. Just got a cab chassis now. More to pull apart yet. Gonna ring around the scrappies and get the best price for the clean alloy. Hope i get a few hundred$$.

Cheers Rod

Lionelgee

27th January 2017, 02:17 PM

Hello Rod,

Here are some more details about the later production Series III diesels that had the brake booster and a source for vacuum. I sourced the information in the Land Rover Series III Repair and Operation Manual Edition 4, Published by Land Rover in 1984.

The system includes a butterfly valve feeding into a reservoir tank then to the booster. Good luck finding these parts if you wanted to go original. They would be rare as rocking horse poo.

There is also an eBay link of all things written about the French vehicle's vacuum pump option in 2006 Accessed January 27, 2917 from, http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/IMPROVING-THE-BRAKES-ON-A-SERIES-LANDROVER-/10000000002360304/g.html

Plus a discussion on the Land Rover Forum UK about it ... Accessed January 27, 2917 from http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/178080-Brake-Vacuum-Pump

Phin sourced a vacuum pump from overseas. I also found that the same pump was fitted to Rovers so it is not just a French idea.

From memory Dinty also looked down the road to providing vacuum to a diesel engine he once fitted to a Long Range Desert Patrol Vehicle via a Chinese clone of a 4BD1 Isuzu's Hitachi alternator. Eventually Dinty reinstalled a petrol motor into the vehicle so the need to find vacuum for a diesel engine no longer applied.

I had intended to use Baldrick my Series III vehicle as my main towing vehicle. To assist in this while I was tapping in for the vacuum pump by fitting a universal oil cooler adaptor 10 AN sandwich http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL-OIL-COOLER-ADAPTOR-10AN-/222266080301?hash=item33c0173c2d:g:wTIAAOSwQYZWy77 q. Then a couple of tees on the inlet and outlet lines to run the vacuum and incorporate a Serck oil cooler 25 Row 115mm Wide Core 8AN Fittings PNARO1663 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Serck-Oil-Cooler-25-Row-115mm-Wide-Core-8AN-Fittings-P-N-ARO1663-/161311742159?hash=item258eedd8cf:g:u1IAAOxykUZTets 7

The added benefit of this universal adaptor sandwich system is that it allowed a spin on oil filter :)

Then at the time Baldrick's engine that had previously been blowing smoke since prior to my buying it made some awful noises and shut down while I was giving its weekly warm up. Meanwhile the clutch being frozen turned to be more than the need of a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I have since picked up another diesel engine for Baldrick. However, he has lost his place as number one priority and been moved down to number Three.

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

27th January 2017, 03:56 PM

Thanks Lionel. Keep looking as im no good at it. I appreciate ur efforts, i really do. Im absolutly no good at researching things. I always get the wrong info or i find porno sites which then distracts me even more😉. Im not sure what im gonna do as yet but when i get the engine out and have a look through it ill fit it and go from there. The belt driven vac pump looks the go as it doesnt look like it needs an oil supply. Early grey motor holdens had a combination vac and fuel pump fitted for the wipers. Im not sure it would supply enough vac to work a booster as the wipers were marginal at best except when ur going down hill. I didnt know there was an electric vac pump available, i might look into that too. Thanks again Lionel for ur help. Its been great.

Cheers mate,
Rod

Lionelgee

27th January 2017, 05:21 PM

G'day Rod,

I did a fair bit of research two years ago and wound up not needing to have a tow vehicle as urgently as I thought. At least someone may benefit from my research.

If you click on the link there are a lot of American sites on eBay that have the electric Vacuum pumps. Surely the Australian hot rod suppliers would know about them here and would be able to supply one?

As long as the electrics keep working they would not have to be fed an oil line or run off an extra pulley drawing off the fan belt. This could also make the initial expense of getting an electric pump cheaper as it does not need any additional parts or trail and error positioning to get things aligned. Looks like it only requires some type of joiner to fit into the booster.

Brake Booster Vacuum Pump | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/brake-booster-vacuum-pump). Looks like some of them even do international shipping to Australia!

Who knows you could act as a guinea pig for me and other people with Series III diesels!

Kind Regards
Lionel

67hardtop

30th January 2017, 11:50 PM

Gday everyone, i may have solved my suck problem. I found an electric vac pump from of all places, a late ve vf v6 commodore. Seems they suffer from lack of vacuum so they have an electric vacuum pump fitted to the front of the engine plumbed into what may be an intergrated vacuum tank on the plastic inlet manifold and a tee piece to the brake booster. Hopefully it can be had for not too much money. I will obviously fit a remote vac tank as well.

I removed the rusty doors from the donor s3 today. I was expecting the screws to be siezed etc but they all screwed straight out with the screwdriver. Brilliant. Tomorrow its supposed to be cooler so might remove seat box and dash plastics from firewall. Maybe even get the front wings off. We'll see. Got a dentist appt tomorrow. Another filling or 2.

Cheers Rodhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/35.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/36.jpg

67hardtop

31st January 2017, 05:35 PM

Ok today i continued with the donor vehicle stripdown. I removed the dash upper and lower panels. I pushed the windscreen forwards and found thishttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/14.jpg
Lots of broken glass. Also evidence of windscreen leakage. It seems that these faults are engineered into the vehicle. I spose they dont want them to last forever. Ive started removing the wiring harness carefully. Im hoping to get the harness off tomorrow as well as the front wings. On a better note ive procured an electric vac pump. I hope im able to make it work as i need it too.

Does anyone know if the extractors of the petrol motor will fit the diesel engine?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/15.jpg

Cheers Rod

Ben_Burdett

31st January 2017, 07:01 PM

67hardtop

31st January 2017, 07:46 PM

Hi Rod good to see that you're back into it.

I bought some petrol extractors off gumtree hoping they would fit my diesel. The other day when I was dismantling my engine I tried to fit them up but it looks like it's not going to work. It appears to hit on the intake manifold as well as some of the studs not lining up.

I didn't spend heaps of time investigating if they could be modified to fit though as I was only doing a quick check.
Bugger. I bought a brand new set of extractors for the petrol engine but coz its stuffed ive now got myself a $400 pile of tubing. Ah well. I can sell em i spose. Thanks Ben. More planning and thinking about stuff.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

1st February 2017, 04:51 PM

Continued...from yesterday...

So today i pulled off the front bumper, apron, both front wings and the wiring harness. I wish when ppl pull things apart they put them back together properly. There were washers missing from lots of places. Mainly the bolt heads. The bolts had been tightened so much that the bolt heads had sunken into the metal, making it very difficult to get a socket onto them let alone a spanner. I ended up grinding the champher of an 11mm single hex socket and hammering it onto the offending bolts. I managed to get them all but one. Of course it was the hardest one to get to. The top bolt on the r/h wing that also holds the bonnet stay rod bracket. I had to actually split the bolt with a 2lb hammer and cold chisel. Got it with 2 hits coz i "USED A BIGGER HAMMER". Hehe.
Anyway i was wondering what these things were? They appear to be some sort of oil switches?? https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/727.jpg there are three of them. One is for the oil pressure light, the small one. There was a wire connected to the larger one but it went no where, and the lower one wasnt connected to anything. Any ideas??

And a couple of obligatory pics belowhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/728.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/729.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/730.jpg

And this is where the fuel line was broken the other dayhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/731.jpg

Also found this...broken main leaf on left fronthttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/732.jpg

Astounding that both front dumb irons are in perfect order
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/733.jpg

Seems the chassis is in very good order except for where the rear crossmember is welded to the two rails. Even the crossmember under the engine is undamaged. Almost a pity to cut it up. If anyone wants to buy it, pm me. Done for the day.

Cheers Rod[emoji1]

Ben_Burdett

1st February 2017, 07:38 PM

My S3 has the same oil sensor/switch setup. Small one is the standard switch for the oil pressure warning light. The next larger one with 1 wire is the sender for the oil pressure gauge. The other one with 2 wires is another switch that completes the reverse light circuit of all things!!

When engine is running oil pressure closes the switch and allows the reverse lights to illuminate. The reverse lights will not work without engine running. This like this because of australian design rules. the standard wiring diagram in the service manual does not show this.

It took me ages to work this out😀

67hardtop

1st February 2017, 08:02 PM

Well thats a bit weird. Wonder why its like that. Some stupid polly trying to justify his job i expect.

Cheers Rod

Phil B

1st February 2017, 08:23 PM

Ex ADF Perenties are the same.
Strange.

Ben_Burdett

1st February 2017, 08:55 PM

Well thats a bit weird. Wonder why its like that. Some stupid polly trying to justify his job i expect.

Cheers Rod
I think being able to use the extra brightness from the reverse lights when shutting a gate at night by yourself would be quite helpful. I'm going to bypass the switch in mine.

67hardtop

1st February 2017, 10:24 PM

I'll prob remove them as i dont have an oil gauge and my s2a doesnt need reverse lights. I'll put my spin on filter adaptor on too. All good.

Cheers Rod

JDNSW

2nd February 2017, 06:19 AM

.........

When engine is running oil pressure closes the switch and allows the reverse lights to illuminate. The reverse lights will not work without engine running. This like this because of australian design rules. the standard wiring diagram in the service manual does not show this.

It took me ages to work this out😀

The Australian Supplement to the Owners Manual for the pre-Defender 110 has a wiring diagram that shows this on the Isuzu installation. I think that it is because the ignition switch does not have an 'accessories' position, and is so that you cannot have the reverse light on when, for example, listening to the radio.

I was not aware that late Series 3 were wired like this, but I am not surprised.

John

67hardtop

3rd February 2017, 12:28 PM

Seeing as AULRO was broken for about 15 hours yesterday, ill do my post now. Yesterday i removed both tail shafts and disconnected the handbrake linkage. Note that both ends of the rear tailshaft the bolts and nuts were loose. The front were tight. That is all.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

6th February 2017, 12:42 PM

Ok on Saturday i removed the radiator and front panel. Original 4 core radiator still fitted but the front fins are a little fragile. The front panel is still pretty good but showing small signs of rust in the bottom. Might get the rad cleaned and the loose strap resoldered. When the money is available. Thats it for now.

Cheers Rodhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/531.jpg

67hardtop

7th February 2017, 02:30 PM

So today i had my 3 monthly house inspection. All good as usual. Mowed the lawn coz green waste bin tomorrow. I then decided to take out the g/box from the donor s3. With all the nuts off the bellhousing and mounts undone and hand brake lever out, i tried to remove the gearbox. It wouldn't budge. So i pushed down on the clutch pedal and of it came. I removed the slave cyl and lifted it clear and its now in my crowded shed waiting for the owner to come get it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/514.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/515.jpg

Ive got a feeling that the rear main seal is possibly leaking a tiny bit. I hate working on diesels. Black sticky oily heaps of junk. But i love it...[emoji6]

Cheers Rod

mick88

7th February 2017, 09:01 PM

Hand throttle on it too Rod! ;)

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

7th February 2017, 09:27 PM

Hand throttle on it too Rod! ;)

Cheers, Mick.
Yeah ive got a diesel s2a one to go on it Mick. Just not sure how im gonna adapt the s2a linkages coz the s3 is a cable operated thing. Ive gotta get a proper stop cable too. The proper cable is very flexable tho its steel wound like a choke cable. Not ready for that yet. But i did find a bit of "gold" on the gearbox when i undone it. A little bracket on the bottom left bolt of the box....a wading plug on the proper bracket. I didnt have one till now. Woo hoo [emoji2]. Gonna be way too hot next few days to work on it.

Cheers Rod

mick88

8th February 2017, 12:28 PM

I have a hand throttle the same as that on my series 3. I purchased it new and it is a linkage set up. It just has an arm that controls the throttle rod that runs across the bulkhead. I will take a few pic of the mechanism for you. Yes it's a scorcher here today too, almost forty by lunch time, I was sweltering in the shed. Good win with the wading plug, they are scarcer than the jack deflector brackets. Cheers

67hardtop

8th February 2017, 02:36 PM

Hi Mick, the hand throttle is complete and all the appropriate linkages are there on the s3. Im just not sure how ill adapt the s2a linkages for a petrol motor to the s3 diesel motor linkages as the s3 has a cable to the injector pump. Ill have to see how the linksges meet up to the s2a hand throttle. Yeah im stoked about the wading plug and bracket just as i am about the jack bracket. I like to have those little touches on my s2a, like the hand throttle. I dont need it but its good that its there[emoji6].
Try to stay cool...

Cheers Rod.

67hardtop

11th February 2017, 04:39 PM

Today while trolling through gumtree ads i found someone looking for a salisbury diff locally here in Adelaide. So i gave him a call and ive sold the salisbury out of the s3 donor car. Woo hoo. But that meant i had to pull it out. Bugger. Hot outside. So i put up the gazeeeeeboooo and commenced pulling the diff out. Everything came out and off ok. No trouble with anything. One front spring hanger bolt was a little troublesome but came out ok in the end. One of the rear spring hangers was almost rubbed through by the second "military curved" leaf. Wow. All bolts and u bolts came off easily. No pics. Couldnt be bothered. Too hot! Diff is out and ready for pickup. Now to sell the rest of it.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

12th February 2017, 07:58 PM

I found the new engine for Betsy today. Here she is...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/314.jpg
Sounds awesome running.

Cheers Rod

mick88

12th February 2017, 08:13 PM

Imagine what the 9 litre V16 sounds like and how it performs, in the Rolls Royce Phantom! :)

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

23rd February 2017, 08:45 AM

Well as everyone knows the forum has been a little different lately and a few posts have gone to LA LA Land. Anyway today i got some parts from all4x4 for my diesel landy motor today. A vrs gasket set and a set of diesel engine mounts. I noticed the mounts have different threads. I presume they are metric. Doesent matter to me tho. Yesterday i cleaned the engine down and will be pulling it out shortly. That is all.

Cheers Rod

harry

23rd February 2017, 05:05 PM

67hardtop

23rd February 2017, 05:15 PM

these guy are mad if they are running that thing without a prop load of some sort.
just having the prop hub on the end of it will not stop the reduction gears from chattering and they will destroy the reduction gearbox
They only start it up and let it idle for a couple mins and turn it off. The motor "hunts" for a couple moments then smoothes out and idles very nicely and noisily. I thought they were supercharged when they were fitted in the spits but i couldnt see one fitted to this engine.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

23rd February 2017, 05:18 PM

So today i drained about 35 litres of diesel out of the tank on the donor s3. Tank seems to be in very good condition. Will remove it tomorrow maybe, b4 the weather gets too warm. It has the single bolt fitted to the rear and three in the front. I will have to undo the lines etc ready to remove the engine soon. All for today.

Cheers Rod

gromit

23rd February 2017, 06:38 PM

Back to Merlin engines for a moment.
I remember John Dodd running a Merlin powered car in the UK back in the 70's, Rolls Royce took him to court over using a RR Grille & Flying Lady on it.

Here is a very, very old Top Gear article John Dodd's Beast on Top Gear - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxMxFE37Sxw)

Search John Dodd to see more videos & info.

Colin

67hardtop

26th February 2017, 07:01 PM

Today i removed the donor engine from the s3 wreck. Wow is that engine heavy. I might fit it without the cyl head and fit that later. Its just too heavy to lug around on my dirt driveway on the engine crane. I will start pulling it apart soon. I have to fix the very leaky rear main seal and take the head off to check the precombustion chambers arent loose. Good time to check the bore condition as well. I will check the crank bearings as well coz it has a little too much end float, prob about 25th instead of 002 to 006th. Anyway its just time at this stage. Money doesnt come into it...coz i aint got any...lol. we'll see what happens. Ill keep everyone who's interested posted on my progress.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/90.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/91.jpg

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

14th March 2017, 06:32 PM

Does anyone know what a $500 paper weight looks like? Well here is a pic...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/394.jpg

I put the diesel motor on the engine stand today. I pulled the rocker cover off and fuel injector pipes. I pulled 3 injectors out. I couldnt budge no 4 injector. I sprayed around the base where it goes into the head. I tried to move it. No way it was coming out easy. So i sprayed it some more then using a brass drift and a small hammer i tried to turn it in the head after removing the 2 studs. It moved a tiny bit. I suspected it was starting to screw itself apart inside the head. So i moved it back and forth spraying it as i went. Still not coming out. So i got a bit rough. I got the ball joint splitter and started forcing it under the sides of the injector. It finally started it upward journey. When i reached the end of the wedge i grabbed a BIG spanner and added it under the splitter as a spacer. Got a bit more out of it. Then got the 18" shifter and put that under the splitter and out she came. Man was that tight. I even tried a slide hammer but that injector wasnt coming out. With all the injectors out and filed away in clean plastic bags i pulled the head off. I wasnt prepared for what i found. Something has been bouncing around on top of no 1 and 4 pistons. Nos 2 and 3 are not too bad. There is no damage to the head but i noticed that all 4 precombustion chambers are loose fitting in the head. It had a composit gasket fitted where the new gasket kit i have has a copper one. I suspect that the PO before the guy i bought it from had the head replaced when the pistons were damaged, and just reused the pistons instead of replacing them. See attatched pics of pistons and head...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/395.jpg
No1
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/396.jpg
No2
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/397.jpg
No3
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/398.jpg
No4
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/399.jpg
Cyl head.

Im almost over this rebuild [emoji30] [emoji30] [emoji35]

Im getting really peed off with it...

Cheers Rod

Ben_Burdett

14th March 2017, 09:12 PM

67hardtop

15th March 2017, 08:08 AM

Hi rod i feel your pain mate I'm in a similar situation with my engine. I think the damage to the top of the pistons is caused from the pig tail type glow plug breaking off. The newer style probe type doesn't have this problem as well as the other benefits of still working even if one fails.
Well that makes sense Ben, it had new glow plugs in it. Pig tail type as you stated.

I will pull the sump off today and check the bottom end. It has a bit too much end float on the crank. Prob about 15th instead of 2 to 6th. Replacing the thrust washers should be pretty easy if i can get them. Ill check big ends and mains as well. Bores look ok. Not too much ridge up top. No evidence of broken top rings and it wasnt blowing blue smoke either when it was running. Bit of black when it was worked hard getting it on the trailer, not abnormal for an old skool diesel. Ill give it a clean up today and see whats going on.

On a side note, the colour on the engine block is a light greeny colour not duck egg blue like others have painted them. This is the colour i found behind the flywheel housing when i removed it. Nice and clean and not faded like on the rest of the engine block. I wonder if i can replicate it.

Cheers Rod

Phil B

15th March 2017, 12:24 PM

mick88

17th March 2017, 11:26 AM

I agree with you Phil.
Actually the indents don't really look much different to the "V's" which i assume are to indicate the direction the pistons should face. They look like they were made by a rough hit with an angle grinder.

Cheers, Mick.

JDNSW

17th March 2017, 11:36 AM

I think you will find the 'V's are more to control the turbulence in the combustion chamber.

67hardtop

17th March 2017, 05:17 PM

I think you will find the 'V's are more to control the turbulence in the combustion chamber.
The V's in the pistons are the combustion chamber. What i was worried about is the foreign body that has imprinted its self onto the top of no 1 and 4 pistons. On closer inspection the cyl head has been damaged. But as suggested the damage is mi imal and was prob caused by the glow plugs falli g apart. I spose ill have to get the valve seats checked. The pistons will b ok ive since found out. Just gotta check the valve seats and the precombustion chambers as they seem loose.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

18th March 2017, 08:26 PM

Well i pulled the sump of Betsy's new to her diesel engine. When i turned it upside down i heard some funny tinkling noise. I was immediatly worried. It means something is in the bottom of the sump. So i removed said sump and found some bits of metal and some non metallic stuff in the bottom, stuck in a tiny bit of sludgy stuff. Hmmm. So i ran around the upturned motor with a magnet. This is what i found...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/317.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/318.jpg
Looks like someone has put a longer than needed bolt in somewhere and broke the bottom out of something. The two bits dont fit together at all so there must be two broken out bolt holes somewhere. I havent found them yet. Dont know where the lock tab comes from. Or the two small cylindrical pieces of hardened steel either. I havent pulled the front cover off yet but i suspect thats where they are from.

Now, for the life of me, i cant understand why some ppl think they are mechanics or some mechanic somewhere would neglect to do a job properly. Follow this story. I removed a conrod cap to check the condition of the shells. The big end shells were new. ACL standard bearings. Great. I thought about not bothering to check the mains. But i decided to check anyway coz i like to try to do a job properly. So i pulled the main bearing centre cap to check the shells. Honestly its beyond belief what i found. The main bearings were shot. Original rover std bearings worn right thru the white metal and down into the copper backing. Unbelievable. What person in their right mind goes to the trouble of putting new bigends on and not new mains. Bloody idiot. See below
No3 big end..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/319.jpg
Its new.

Mains and thrusts..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/320.jpg
No1 lower
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/321.jpg
No2 lower
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/322.jpg
No3 lower
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/323.jpg
3 uppers
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/324.jpg

Im so glad i checked them[emoji15] . Its an expense i can ill afford but i will be putting new main bearings in it and new thrusts. I will probably pull the pistons out now and re ring it too.

I wonder if i can get the crank journals polished and get a set of 001 mains for it. Ill have to check.

Have to pull the front cover off now as well coz ive got a new chain for it and i need to find where those bits of metal came from.

Its still a $500 paper weight.

Well gotta save my $$ now for parts. I was just gonna drop the motor in coz it sounded fine. I wonder what the oil pump looks like inside. I shudder to think....

Thats all for now...

Cheers Rod

OneOff

19th March 2017, 06:03 PM

Those little hardened steel bittys look like the wedges that fit on a valve stem to hold the spring in place.

whitehillbilly64

19th March 2017, 08:47 PM

The washer locks the oil pump pick up filter to the pump.
large nut, right hand side of the horizontal tube.

whitehillbilly

JDNSW

19th March 2017, 08:51 PM

Yes, definitely valve cotters. Someone lost them down the pushrod holes I expect.

I don't recognise the other bits though.

67hardtop

20th March 2017, 07:18 PM

Ok bit more to the story...this evening i pulled no2 piston out, the one i had removed the bigend shells on. Well.... the not such a good mechanic saga continues. Check this pic of the piston...note the position of the ring gaps.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/279.jpg

All 4 pistons i've pulled out are like this. The top ring was slightly off set on all of them but the ring gaps were lined up very nicely. I worky great on ingins [emoji50]

Hmmm...so glad i pulled it apart now for sure.

Check out these other pics...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/280.jpg
Found out where the two bits of painted cast iron came from and i know why they broke off. See the middle is cracked as well. The holes broke out coz some dipstick filled the holes with silastic and the resulting hydraulic lock up from screwing the bolts in, broke the housing on 2 holes and cracked the middle hole. I hope the petrol timing cover is the same.[emoji15]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/281.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/282.jpg
This dropped out when the timing cover came off. Broken through both bolt holes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/283.jpg

This is where to cylindrical hardened steel bits came from. I suspected as much when i found them so thats why i looked at the chain after the cover came off.

Still dont know where the lock tab came from yet. Its a bit dark now.

Well i suppose the camshaft will be pulled out in the next couple days. I hope that is ok but im not holding my breath.

I havent found out if i can get 001 mains yet or where and how much $$ to get the crank polished.

At least the rings are ok and might be used again. The ring grooves in the pistons are still clean so it hasnt done much since the bigend bearings and rings were done. Maybe a small win??

That is all for now...

Cheers Rod

mick88

21st March 2017, 07:04 AM

Gee, some rough work has been done on that engine!
He probably spent ages lining the ring gaps up?

Is that a second oil ring at the base of the skirt?

Good luck with it Rod.

Cheers, Mick.

1950landy

21st March 2017, 08:01 AM

Ring gaps should be set at 180 deg to one another.

67hardtop

21st March 2017, 08:31 AM

Gee, some rough work has been done on that engine!
He probably spent ages lining the ring gaps up?

Is that a second oil ring at the base of the skirt?

Good luck with it Rod.

Cheers, Mick.

Yes it is Mick. This engine has 5 rings on each piston. 3 compression rings and 2 oil control rings. A bit unusual i would have thought as there are no piston crown oil squirters usually used to cool down the underneath of the crown. I dont know very much about diesel engines just hate getting black from the oil in them. So messy.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

21st March 2017, 01:50 PM

Having read thru the genuine s3 and s2a diesel engine workshop manuals, it turns out that the lower oil control ring was NOT fitted at the factory. The workshop manual says to leave the lower ring groove empty. Now im wondering why they leave it empty. It says NOT to fit the 3 piece type oil ring to the lower groove, just the one piece type. Why would they say that if ur supposed to leave the groove empty. Got me stuffed. Do i fit the lower ring if i get one or not??

The next thing is the chain tensioner is different to both the books. WTF?
The engine is 1975 the book is 1978. Surely the upgrades would be in the later book. Its so frustrating. Things are supposed to be right. Why cant they even get a workshop manual right. Is the parts manual right? No wonder so many ppl get frustrated and cant fix things right if the information isnt right. How has land rover lasted so long. I know im ranting but i dont like things to be wrong when they arent supposed to be[emoji35] [emoji35] [emoji35] .

Cheers Rod

Cap

5th July 2017, 12:13 PM

67hardtop

5th July 2017, 07:04 PM

Thanks very much for ur comments and prasise for the work ive done. I would like to do more but at present im busy helping a friend with his service station as hes just had major surgery and hes recovering well. I know petrol motors very well but diesel engines are definatly a different kettle of fish to me. Im not sure how to time the pump so ive not taken it off yet. I still need to get some parts for the engine but its getting the time at the moment. I was gonna take it into work when theres quiet times and work on it but theres not much free space there and no parts washer[emoji22]. Anyway ill get by. Thanks again for ur kind comments. Good luck with ur build. Ill be watching urs and others with lots of interest.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

5th July 2017, 07:23 PM

Hi Rod - read through your thread and must say you are doing an outstanding job given your financial circumstances and working conditions. Great work so far! With the chassis prep, I was smiling as I was thinking of doing the same thing, that is standing the chassis on its end and hosing from the top (dumb irons). Then fish oil the inside...

Your 'refresh' is spot on with mine, just getting it up and running safely without taking out a second mortgage! Its also much more doable for me as it keeps the size/cost of the project to a reasonable level.

I am also putting in a diesel in place of the original petrol, so the issues you spoke about with throttle cables and stop cables are also on my mind. I have the original throttle cable, all I need it the lever that bolts onto the throttle rod (bulkhead). For the engine stop cable, I may see if I can retrofit the petrol choke cable, but realistically its a small expense to get one and you may have the one from the donor vehicle.

The motor issues you had would have me going mad also, but I suppose they are 30+ years old with many hands trying to fix over time. Given the issues you had and me in the same situations with my unknown motor, I think I will have a closer look inside too. However, you seem to be much knowledge about motors than I do... anything below the head is very much new territory for me so I will read with interest your progress and learn from you and others posting on here.

Cheers,

Hi Cap, regards the stop cable, the cable wasnt there as it had broken sk it was just a piece of wire hooked up. I believe the stop cable is located in the same posi as the choke cable. Im yet to get one. There are 2 different types as one type is used if a steering lock is fitted in a s3. The steering lock actually locks the stop cable in the stop position when the key is off. But i wont be fitting that coz the key is on the dash on my s2a. Still got to get the right one. I got heaps of crud out of the chassis by tipping it up and washing it out. This is the main reason that galvinisers dont like to galvinise old chassis coz it contaminates the tanks. Ive fish oiled the chassis and will be doing it again in summertime this year. Anyway im rambling on. Have fun with ur freshen up as i will as well.
If i can help you or anyone else with advice or anything else i will do my best.

Cheers Rod

Cap

5th July 2017, 07:56 PM

Hi Cap, regards the stop cable, the cable wasnt there as it had broken sk it was just a piece of wire hooked up.

Cheers Rod

Damn, would you believe i had exactly the same, i wire wrapped around the screw fitting. Must of been the done thing back in the day??

Luckily I also have a 2a, so the choke cable may be useable as a stop cable, but ill see. If i come up with some solution ill sure let you know seeing we are looking at the same issue.

All the best with helping your mate out, life gets in the way of a Landy project sometimes :)

Cheers,

67hardtop

23rd July 2017, 07:23 PM

Well not Betsy but my other s3 ol yeller....https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/658.jpg

Should be on "conditional" rego by the end of the week. Thats the updated historic rego here in SA. Should save me about $1000 on rego now. And allowed to have the 186 as well as its called a period correct conversion. Ive found out that the conversion was actually done in 1979 when the original rover 6 blew up. They put the 5 speed in at the same time aparently for more go. It has plenty of go BTW.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

19th November 2017, 05:13 PM

Ok so its been a while but i got some enthusiasm this afternoon to do a bit to Betsy, but it all turned to crap quickly. I removed the nicely lined up rings from the 2.25 diesel's pistons and when i got the last of the 5 rings of the last piston, i removed it from the vice and heard something drop. Hmmm. Looked at the piston and seen this👇

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/591.jpg
[emoji22] [emoji22]

Of course it happened to be the last piston i was de ringing and also the piston that was damaged the most by a glowplug losing its pigtail at some time in its now, obviously, hard life. NOT HAPPY JAN. Now do i get a rebore and new o/s pistons etc, or do i get another standard sized s/h 5 ring piston? I know what i should do, but could be expensive. Then how far do i go? Regring the crank etc, new cam and followers, injector pump overhaul at $1600? Hmmm. Nope!

Anyone got a standard sized 5 ring piston??

Anyone???

Cheers Rod

It seems like im kicked in the guts everytime i get to doing anything on this rebuild[emoji25]

bemm52

19th November 2017, 06:25 PM

That's bloody bad luck Rod[bigsad]

Murphy's law always the last one hopefully someone has what you need

Cheers Paul

67hardtop

21st November 2017, 08:25 PM

Tonight i got onto Paddock spares and ordered 4 new standard diesel pistons with rings. Just gotta wait for the freight quote i spose. I dont know how that works but i'll muddle through. All up just over £101 Gbp. Got a quote today from an aussie supplier and it was $100 per piston, plus freight, not including rings. Hmmm. I wonder how long it'll take em to get back to me and how long b4 i get them.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=78345)

Dgd69

21st November 2017, 09:51 PM

Usually takes 2/3 days on average to get back to you I have found

mick88

22nd November 2017, 07:04 AM

What year is your series 3 Rod and was it originally a six, or a four cylinder?
Any idea how many kays it had on the clock when the conversion was done?
It's fantastic that you can now get historic rego on something that has had
an engine conversion, maybe Victoria will eventually follow suite, although t
hey have introduced an "M" plate (for modified vehicles on club permit plates),
but it still requires an Engineers Certificate.
As a general rule of thumb with purchases from Paddocks the "shipping" costs
are about the same again as the purchase price, unless the item/s are extremely
heavy or bulky, in which case the shipping is even more expensive.

Cheers, Mick.

67hardtop

22nd November 2017, 07:21 AM

Hi Mick my s3 is 1976 and originally a six. No idea what the mileage was when conversion was done, just know it was done in aprox 1979, when original rover 6 blew up. I hope that paddocks dont hit me too hard with postage. Ive ordered 4 diesel pistons, a fuel pump and an inlet hose. Around 160 AUD for the whole order and a local supplier wanted 100 per piston +GST, and extra for the ring set plus freight. Stupid prices. Historic or conditional rego is only available for engine conversions that were done a long time ago from what ive been told.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

1st December 2017, 10:55 PM

Pistons and rings arrived today from paddocks. Will have to check proper fitment soon. They look good. Nice and shiney....mmmm.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

3rd July 2018, 09:15 PM

Well its been a while. Ive been busy with the bush pig. Ive had a s3 tub resting against the wall outside the front of the house for a while. Today i took it down and rested it on some milk crates and gave it a really good clean. I need to patch up some holes in the floor and make the rear accept a tailgate as it used to have a door. Looks like its been repainted at some stage. Its yellow now but it used to be red. Maybe it was of an ex fire brigade vehicle. It would explain the holes in the floor. Anyway im just waiting for my next pension to buy some liquid nails to put patches on the underside of the floor and repair the holes. Maybe ill use paint stripper to get the body back to clean metal and paint it again. Hopefully i wont be taking this long again for my next update.

Cheers Rod

Cap

4th July 2018, 06:04 AM

67hardtop

4th July 2018, 03:37 PM

Just on liquid nails, its crap. I sets and hardens, eventually cracking. Was a pain to remove from my caravan. I would suggest using marine grade sika, sets flexible to allow for vibrations and super strong bond. Its also uv resistant...Thanks Cap. Ive just bought some sika 291 marine adhesive sealant. Now to cut some patches and attatch them if the rain holds off.

Cheers Rod

Cap

9th July 2018, 06:28 AM

not sure if you seen this, but excellent vid of the pump strip down

https://youtu.be/h26p78YZIr4

67hardtop

11th July 2018, 07:36 PM

So today i got stuck into patching the holes in this s3 tub. I fitted and sealed the patches on Tuesday and today i sprayed body schultz on the underside seams and patches to seal them better from dirt and water ingress. I also ran the wiring through the chassis to the back. Just gotta find the fuel tank insulators where the tank passes through the body behind the seats and then i can place the tub onto the chassis, i hope.

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/c32ab258f2fd8412aa7be642b4f7f30f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/83630f23166dbfea1fb7aee90a77159b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/1a0968885e09a2c22503ec9a7c7efc85.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/b514acc398e8d35ab8f0c0b8fe01d3f2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/8a37a5b36ddcfa32c179ed834256a178.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180711/0dd247e07fac70978c93cc44e312ee40.jpg

67hardtop

15th July 2018, 12:31 PM

Made this today so i can push my s3 stage 1 3.9 tray top up the driveway.

All ready to put the tub on the chassis now that ive found the top fuel tank insulators for under the tub. Ive turned the tub over now and sitting on milk crates. Just need more bodies here to help lift it on....any takers??

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/130f8f7ec87abf912d54a17b979bcb36.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/f89e2eb6bd71636dfbe38ebea0c42283.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/af968695aad1ada73c171c0b411d7f81.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/6e55b2fd73459eb8204c48a0598d3746.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/63bdc79522f14f76346cf56ecfa4853d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/9e8832ea951a0e7903408b56200a0c85.jpg

Homestar

15th July 2018, 01:10 PM

I'd be around in a flash mate if I was closer. I will be over your way but not for a couple of months yet - hopefully some local Adelaidians can pop over and give you a hand. 👍😊

67hardtop

15th July 2018, 03:18 PM

Thanks Gav. I managed to get 3 bodies to help. Its not heavy just awkward when ur by urself. So ive got the tub on but not fitting well coz the holes for the fuel tanks dont line up very well. I lifted the front up and got the die grinder out and made the holes larger towards the rear. The tub dropped nicely into place. What ive noticed is if i fit the bolts into the rear plates i have to lift the tub up and so the rubber rest strips underneath arent touching the uprights. There would be about 8mm gap. So the tub would be supported by the bolts and not the cross supports. That would put unneccesary strain on the alloy frome mounts. Do i just re drill the holes into the tub while its resting on the supports or lift it up and bolt it with no underneath support? Also looks like i have to pull the fuel tanks out to access the front tub mount bolts. My hands arent little like an 8yr olds...lol. well thats it for now. Need to find the tub bolts and spacers.

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/01d843c43993590ece5a42a05f81a7c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/2689c28099d477cb5783e5c97e8d1b9a.jpg

JDNSW

15th July 2018, 04:12 PM

The weight must be taken by the pads on the crossbraces under the tub. I assume the rear crossmember has been replaced or repaired? I see no issues with redrilling the tub to match the brackets on the crossmember.

Note that the position of the tub dictates the rest of the body location. The positioning of the firewall (or bulkhead as it is called) is adjusted so the doors fit the tub, and the front panels are adjusted to it.

67hardtop

15th July 2018, 08:03 PM

Thanks John, ive just remembered that the original tub had a rubber strip about half inch thick under it and on top of the lands running lengthwise front to rear. Yes the rear x member has been replaced with one of an 88" some time in the past b4 my father owned it. It still has the spring hangers on it and it had 2 chassis numbers. Ive since ground away the 88" chassis number. I was sure that the tub had to be fitted first. It only makes sense as the rear is fixed to the chassis and everything is adjusted to fit from that datem point forwards. Your knowledge is amasing John. Thanks again.

Cheers Rod.
Ps. Off to clark rubber in tbe morning as i cant find the ones i took off...

67hardtop

16th July 2018, 10:20 PM

Ok i bought some 40mm x 8mm x 4metres of insertion rubber. I raised the tub and after cutting around the shock bolts i fitted the rubber strip. Great. All the holes line up now. Im glad. Will have to clean up the bolts now that ive found them and fit the spacers to the front. Soonish probably...lol.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

18th July 2018, 03:23 PM

The other day whilst looking at the pistons on my 2.25 diesel motor i noticed the new gudgeon pin was a little loose in the no.1 conrod. Checked the rest and they are fine. I cant find any reason for the no.1 little end bush to be more worn than the rest. Searched ebay. No good. Plenty petrol motor bushes but no diesel bushes. So i consulted the s2a parts book and got a part number. Seems the part number is still good. Ordered 4 new bushes. Seems the bushes are the same for 200 and 300 tdi. $2.80 each. Not bad. Should be here next week. Bushes are from a local source. Happy with that.

Cheers Rod

Lionelgee

19th July 2018, 05:58 PM

Note that the position of the tub dictates the rest of the body location. The positioning of the firewall (or bulkhead as it is called) is adjusted so the doors fit the tub, and the front panels are adjusted to it.

Hello John,

Now that is a handy bit of information about everything lining up after the tub is fitted. It probably applies to ex-army ambulances too that needs a new firewall.

Would the same rule apply for tray back utes with drop-down sides since there is clearance between the trays and the rear of the ute's cabin?

Kind regards
Lionel

JDNSW

20th July 2018, 05:54 AM

Hello John,

Now that is a handy bit of information about everything lining up after the tub is fitted. It probably applies to ex-army ambulances too that needs a new firewall.

Would the same rule apply for tray back utes with drop-down sides since there is clearance between the trays and the rear of the ute's cabin?

Kind regards
Lionel

The cab lower back on these is effectively a truncated tub and is the same - it has no provision for adjustment. The trayback is completely independent of the rest of the bodywork, and is usually fitted after all the rest of the bodywork is fully fitted.

67hardtop

31st July 2018, 09:34 AM

Well I got some news on friday at our club meeting about the gudgeon pin bushes I ordered. Not good news. It seems the only small end bushes in Australia were on a transport truck along with the only series 2a 6 cyl top hose in existence, were involved in an incident. The bloody trailer caught fire and burned to the ground on the way to Adelaide. They saved the prime mover tho. Could have saved my bushes. Bugger. Now the hunt is on for more bushes. Finished bushes of course. Why does this always happen to me? I was just starting to get back in the mood to get this diesel motor done. Another step backwards. Also found out that the 4 hot spots now have to be replaced as the head has been machined with them fitted. They should be removed before machining as they are supposed to be proud of the head surface when fitted as the head gasket is what holds them from coming loose and a small pin stops them from rotating in place. They arent cheap and not available in Australia so far. Big BUGGER. Grrr.
The pleasures and pains of rebuilding a Land Rover continues.....

Cheers Rod

Cap

31st July 2018, 10:01 AM

Cant believe that, what are the chances of that happening! All the best mate, yes these projects can test patience!!!

gromit

31st July 2018, 02:20 PM

67hardtop

1st August 2018, 07:31 AM

gromit

1st August 2018, 08:07 PM

Not yet Colin. Money is too short now. I wish i could get work. Unfortunatly my body is letting me down. I need a job that pays well, starts at midday and ends at 1pm. with a half hour lunch break...lol.
Seriously id love a job driving a truck or such where i dont have to actually do any lifting etc. coz my back isnt good and my knees are stuffed. Ill check them out when ive got some funds

If I get time next week I'll call in and see what they've got.
Over a couple of changes of ownership a lot of the old parts (and virtually all the secondhand parts) have been dumped !!

Colin

67hardtop

1st August 2018, 08:33 PM

Ive got a phone number now. I will prob call tomorrow if i remember...lol. Thanks Colin

67hardtop

3rd August 2018, 10:30 PM

So today i ordered 4 gudgeon pin bushes and 4 hot spots and locating pins from PCB Land Rovers. They are coming from England on a stock order so i hope i dont get hit too hard with freight. Parts should be here end of next week or mid week after next. Hope its not gonna burn the bloody plane down this time...lol.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

29th September 2018, 07:54 PM

Ok update. Got the gudgeon pin bushes and new hot spots n pins. That was a while ago. 2 weeks ago i removed the old small end bushes and fitted the new bushes to the rods. I had rung a few engine "reconditioners" to find out how much to fit and reamer the new bushes out. Now a short story. An engine reconditioner should have the needed tooling to recondition an engine. Only 2 out of the 5 I contacted actually had the tool needed to reamer the bushes out. They have to be perfectly aligned and reamered. ( I dont know why the correct term is reamered. I would say reamed but alas its not the correct term in this case.) Anyway they wanted $180.00 & $187.00 respectivly. So i fitted the new unfinished bushes myself with a hammer and socket and vise. All good. Aligned the oil hole etc. Then i saved up some money and took the conrods to the first reconditioner and asked for a quote. With a receipt was $150. Without said receipt $100 contribution to beer fund. Done! So i got the rods back and then fitted the new pistons. That was 2 days ago. Today I marked and removed the timing chain and sprocket. As i dont have the super dooper special tool to align and time the injector pump, i havent removed it from the camshaft. I removed the crank and found the rear main seal hard as a rock and it broke into bits as i removed it. The little spring couldnt even be removed from the seal it was that badly deformed and hard. It was leaking really badly before i removed the engine from the s3 donor. I have a new complete rear main seal kit to fit to it. Then i cleaned out the block as best possible as a starting point. Then i got my ball deglazing hone out and deglased the bores. Then i got my die grinder out and buffed off all the gasket surfaces. Gave the block another clean. I found a stripped thread in one of the water pump bolt holes. I will have to fix it when i can afford a helicoil kit. I think its 5/16 unf. Next i plan to clean the crank and give the journals a polish up with some 800 wet n dry. Then ill fit it with the new seal and main bearings. Then install pistons and bigends. New timing chain and tensioner. Tomorrow I hope...

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

30th September 2018, 01:57 PM

Well today i got a late start. Couldnt get motivated. So im cleaning out threads. The thread i found yesterday that i thought was stripped wasnt. It was just a bit damaged by the bolt that was in there. Cleaned tbe bolt up and the thread...all good. Ran the thread tap through all the threads on the front of the motor with the tap in the drill set on a low clutch setting. All cleaned out. Then i went through my parts for the timing set. Hmmm. Found the new chain i have is longer by one complete link, one inner and one outer link, than the one that came off the engine. Now my engine came out of a s3 1975 diesel. It also had a block type tensioner not the chain wheel one it says in the manual. So im thinking the block type chain must be shorter coz of this. To the parts manual. Will have to sort it out on tuesday now. More expense. Hmmm. Thats as far as ive gotten today so far. Im clearing the bench so i can clean some parts and the crank.
Bugger.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

30th September 2018, 06:37 PM

So i cleaned the crank and gave the journals a little polish with 1200. I temporarily fitted the crank and thrusts. I checked the end float. 0.006th. Just on the max limit. That will do me. I removed the crank and cleaned the rear main cap with 240 wet n dry. Then i put the block up on the bench so i had better access to the rear main seal area. I then cleaned up the rear main bearing journal and T seal areas. Tomorrow i have to get some silicone grease and loktite 515 to seal the rear seal caps and silastic for the rear T seals. I wont be fitting the T seals i'll just be using silastic coz it wont leak. Then ill tighten down the crank etc. Maybe fit pistons and rods. Not sure about that just yet. See what happens tomorrow.

Cheers Rod
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180930/afc29b7a9675c1adf2c3fa5bd23c1851.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180930/f180d5a0992686e4dd283152762906ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180930/319d957795e1fb23cc52a239394447da.jpg

Couple missing pics from previous post...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180930/c08eddba9b450d945ab1bf1b453aae92.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180930/08b57d37da5f80ba2b81ce613ac0ccfb.jpg

67hardtop

1st October 2018, 06:29 PM

Today i bit the bullet and fitted the crank shaft. Fitted the new rear seal kit. Bugger of a job trying to get my big hands in to hook the garter spring together. Got it in the end. New seal retainers as well. Sealed the T seal slots with silastic instead of using the cork seals. Worked a treat. Then came time to fit the new pistons. So i fitted the new pistons after setting the ring gaps up. All fitted and working great. Just got to get new conrod nuts. Didnt know i had to replace them. Im still tossing up getting new thrusts coz they are just in tolerance. Might get the 0.0025 th ones coz im paranoid now that the ones in the petrol motor i had dropped into the sump destroying the block n crank. Grrr. Anyway im over that. I wrapped the motor up in glad wrap to keep it clean. I went thru the oil pump. All good there. I fitted a new o ring to the filter screen. I cleaned up the old petrol motor timing cover coz the diesel one is buggered.

Tomorrow i need to get welch plugs coz theyre stuffed after i knocked them out to check. Im always wondering why some ppl replace only the leaking one or 2 instead of replacing all of them. The rest are gonna rust through shortly anyway.
Where was I? Oh yes tomorrow need welch plugs, shorter timing chain, new conrod nuts. Sure theres something else.

Pretty busy day today. All good

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/ef2704162ed3a1ac89c30e4e9d803639.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/8a4c05194007313598aa62bd6796f214.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/9ccdb5b404a1bf042d4e2bd4307cda4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/6d0715d94ac72ce01e533964c27529c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/7cb45d1e8c491ce9f3cb31d6052147ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181001/83035a6f1374be7987982dc0a2d9b51a.jpg

cjc_td5

2nd October 2018, 08:39 AM

Hi Rod.
What's the theory with using wet & dry on the journal surfaces? Are you looking to take glaze off?
Chris.

67hardtop

2nd October 2018, 08:50 AM

Hi Rod.
What's the theory with using wet & dry on the journal surfaces? Are you looking to take glaze off?
Chris.I did it to just polish them up just incase there was any minor damage and it helped me to see if the journals were ok. Ive seen them done like that before so ive always done it. No other reason than that.

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

6th October 2018, 12:44 PM

Well last night at the LRRSA meeting i discovered that the shorter timing chain had a master link. Im disapointed in myself for not finding it sooner. I just laid out $60.00 for a new chain thats already in the mail. I have a new chain here thats the correct length if the engine is fitted with the original type sprocket and ratchet tensioner. So i ground off 4 pins and fitted the master link to the new (was longer) chain and it fits perfectly. The valve timing is now set and the injector pump hasnt been moved so it should still be good. Ive located the timing cover bolts and water pump bolts and they are soaking in petrol to get the sillyastic off them. I will clean up the bolts on the wire wheel and run the die down them to clean the threads up. So today i will have the timing cover and water pump fitted. Just have to wait for the new conrod nuts then i can fit the oil pump and sump.

Supervisor keeping an eye on me again...[emoji190]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/e61e42b5a85fc2293fca5324a98f49d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/240ef3ee7ae32f2e33fdcc8ce9c67f87.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/3a10f4bb446109556c5ea82013ff1e62.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/f920ef3ab2ddd404b1e3ffd8e78ec88b.jpg

Cheers Rod

67hardtop

6th October 2018, 12:47 PM

Quick pic of where the older type tensioner was fitted some time in the past. Block has damage but is superfishal. (Bad spelling?).

Cheers Rod

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/b000203e63b3b097791e5f1a29d30de4.jpg

67hardtop

6th October 2018, 01:41 PM

Timing cover and water pump on and tight.
Now need to find a paint code for "duck egg blue".

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/27458f18bd50800015340f6c96c1e567.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/003ea7c9f8d3a6e543446d3532176b19.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/56213c27e9585b590e55ecb786145c70.jpg

67hardtop

21st October 2018, 05:51 PM

Today i did stuff. I torqued up the conrods. Cant believe they are only 25 foot pounds. I fitted the oil pump and drive. Checked everything over then started on the block.

I had found a replacement for duck bumnut blue. Called smoky blue from Protec. I removed the oil fill tube and fuel pump and mount plates. Took off the engine mount brackets too. Cleaned off old gaskets. I reckon the gaskets were asbestos based. So i cleaned up the parts and painted the bits black. Then i taped up the top of the block and knocked in the new welch plugs. Wish i could have gotten brass ones but steel lasted till now so steel it is.

Cleaned the block and then painted it.

Looks pretty good. Then i bolted on the other bits i had painted. New gaskets etc. I painted the sump after i knocked the dents out. I fitted the sump. I also fitted a new fuel pump too. Cleaned up and took pics.

Maybe if i get some time ill start working on getting the cylinder head back together again and fitted.

Cheers Rod.

Ps...plenty pain from standing all day...[emoji30] [emoji30] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/cc55248b98136a4a118580887c67cfcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/8ab70151c45b7c89f383163ddbaa3756.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/4f78ae61557833e77385d363fe9e6ccb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/e2b83d5bebdfffd9082363bc0b5eae0c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/098e1b295f2025f392fe0488b9281e98.jpg

grey_ghost

21st October 2018, 06:04 PM

Looking great Rod [emoji1303]

Homestar

21st October 2018, 06:13 PM

Nice work mate. 👍

OneOff

22nd October 2018, 09:04 PM

Looks the goods Rod, very good! Bumnut Blue it is. [thumbsupbig]

Not so good for your back though...

67hardtop

23rd October 2018, 07:10 AM

The colour is actually smoky blue from protec paint. A close match for duckegg blue, (duck bumnuts).[emoji38] [emoji38] [emoji38]

67hardtop

29th October 2018, 07:14 PM

Well this morning i got stuck into the cylinder head. I knocked the hot plugs out, removed the locking pins. I had bought a couple wire brushes that fit into the impact driver drill thingy, then i cleaned out the injector holes and glow plug holes as well. Lots of carbon. I remember when i removed the injectors i had lots of trouble removing no 4 injector bcoz of carbon build up on the body of it. I found out why. Some incompetant IDIOT put 2 copper washers on the body of the injector and didnt fit the smaller copper sealing washer to the nozzle. So it filled up the gap with carbon deposits till the leak stopped i presume. The other 3 injectors were ok. Copper sealing washers in the right spots. So i cleaned up the head and cleaned out all the threads and holes. I fitted 6 new brass welch plugs to the top of the head. There were already brass welch plugs fitted to the rest of the head. I knocked in the new hot spots and pins with my leather 3lb hammer and finally got them close as possible to specs above the head face with a block of pine and said 3lb copper side of the hammer. Bit agricultural but thats what the book says. The hotspots have to sit about 1thou above the face. Then i cleaned up all the head bolts, rocker gear and pushrods. Located the position of the 2 studs and nuts. I screwed the studs in with loktite 243. I also removed and sealed the injector studs coz they are screwed into the oily area in the rocker cover. Ok. Then i coated the head gasket with hylomar and fitted it. Then i fitted the head. Oiled the bolts and torqued it down. Then i set the tappets. Taped up the bits i didnt want painted and painted the head. Removed the tape. Looking good. Ran out of paint so i gotta get another can. Few touchups. All good. Took some pics.

Got sore feet now.

A busy day for a change.

Cheers Rod https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/3dfb7629820226c69793d1f7e46c3e30.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/c66fc0ae1df689d2aeb90131e04f75b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/c6148501fa4ba9af85de5671800de72c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/dd09d7fcc7baef7e2ba154887c8b733c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/62ba29b7a952768240d206ccb82a1d4d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/af946199a61848a4faf348be0258eb37.jpg