weeds
7th September 2005, 01:48 PM
I have just installed a solar panel on the defender and thought I would share my works.
I picked up a 80w Unisolar panel rated 3.6amp, slightly damaged (aluminium frame small bend, and a couple of scratches on the panel) out of the trading post. I was originally going to buy a BP 80w but the Unisolar has worked out better as it is larger than the BP 80w which suited the main reason for the install being a wind break, the second reason for the install was to help batteries out on extended stops with no driving and the third reason I believe the solar panel will fully charge the batteries and conditions them for longer life (not sure if that totally correct).
I happy with the output of the 65w panel, it’s rated at 3.6amp output I think however in full sun it gets up to 4.5 - 5amp output, I think the BP 80w puts out about between 5-6amps. A 6amp regulator cost $60-$70, I decided not to get the regulator that fits in the box on the back of the solar panel so that I could install an amp meter to see what the output of the panel is. If I did it again I would have brought the regulator that fits in the box on the solar panel and put the amp meter between the regulator and batteries so I could see how much charge the batteries are taking i.e. if the amp meter is only showing 0.5amp or zero amps in full sun the batteries would be fully charged.
I already had two aux batteries in the cargo area behind the fridge slide, see photos page six in the gallery. I have a manual isolation switch, (idiot switch I think would be a good name as me being the idiot has forgot to either isolate or un-isolate. I have the option of selecting which battery or batteries are being charged i.e. both or start or aux. As the manual switch was already in the car I kept it instead of buying an electronic one. The regulator stops the panel sending charge to the batteries when the motor is running which I thought would not be the case as if it continued to charge it would reduce the load on the alternator. I do have the option that if I’m driving along with full sun on the panel I can isolate the aux batteries from the alternator and let the solar panel kick in to look after the aux batteries although the idiot switch comes into play again as I’m bound to forget that I have isolated the aux when the sun is going down or I’m driving at night. I’m yet to use this option.
It seems to be doing the job, a mate of mine is about to do the same sought of set up only he is going the 80w panel.http://www.aulro.com/albums/album271/Solar_panel_on_vehicle.thumb.jpg
There are some more photos on the link below.
I picked up a 80w Unisolar panel rated 3.6amp, slightly damaged (aluminium frame small bend, and a couple of scratches on the panel) out of the trading post. I was originally going to buy a BP 80w but the Unisolar has worked out better as it is larger than the BP 80w which suited the main reason for the install being a wind break, the second reason for the install was to help batteries out on extended stops with no driving and the third reason I believe the solar panel will fully charge the batteries and conditions them for longer life (not sure if that totally correct).
I happy with the output of the 65w panel, it’s rated at 3.6amp output I think however in full sun it gets up to 4.5 - 5amp output, I think the BP 80w puts out about between 5-6amps. A 6amp regulator cost $60-$70, I decided not to get the regulator that fits in the box on the back of the solar panel so that I could install an amp meter to see what the output of the panel is. If I did it again I would have brought the regulator that fits in the box on the solar panel and put the amp meter between the regulator and batteries so I could see how much charge the batteries are taking i.e. if the amp meter is only showing 0.5amp or zero amps in full sun the batteries would be fully charged.
I already had two aux batteries in the cargo area behind the fridge slide, see photos page six in the gallery. I have a manual isolation switch, (idiot switch I think would be a good name as me being the idiot has forgot to either isolate or un-isolate. I have the option of selecting which battery or batteries are being charged i.e. both or start or aux. As the manual switch was already in the car I kept it instead of buying an electronic one. The regulator stops the panel sending charge to the batteries when the motor is running which I thought would not be the case as if it continued to charge it would reduce the load on the alternator. I do have the option that if I’m driving along with full sun on the panel I can isolate the aux batteries from the alternator and let the solar panel kick in to look after the aux batteries although the idiot switch comes into play again as I’m bound to forget that I have isolated the aux when the sun is going down or I’m driving at night. I’m yet to use this option.
It seems to be doing the job, a mate of mine is about to do the same sought of set up only he is going the 80w panel.http://www.aulro.com/albums/album271/Solar_panel_on_vehicle.thumb.jpg
There are some more photos on the link below.