D4 dual battery isolators - what options

[aquanaught]

Hi all, newbie here just about to take delivery of a D4 SDV6 SE and very excited about it too I may say!

I have been trawling for all I can find on the forum regarding brake controllers and duel batteries management (there is a fair bit) which has been quite useful, particularly for the brake control setup.

Regarding the duel battery install, my basic requirements are to run a fridge in the back of the D4 and to charge the camper trailer batteries when towing.

I am aware that Traxide supply a good bit of kit for the dual battery setup and I may well go with this option BUT I have a Redarc SBI12 (voltage controlled solenoid) carry over from my previous vehicle and a Projecta DBC100 (voltage sensitive relay) from a friend at hand to use.

Despite my investigations I haven't found anything specific about the D4 battery management system and what isolators / chargers may or may not work. As such I would happily take advice as to why these two or for that matter any other types of isolators may or may not work with the D4 alternator.

Looking forward to further enlightenment.

Thanks in advance.

Gary

---------------------------------------------------
Have now: A kitted out but old Pajero
Soon to have: A bog standard D4 SDV6 SE :cool:

[apachefreak]

Great question!
what he said :)
Im in the same boat, looking for a dual battery system for a D4
any suggestions for any dual battery system recommendations?
cheers

[Stuart02]

Redarc and Projecta are both good brands and I reckon there's forum members here running both of them. But the Traxide is more than just an isolator. If you use an Optima for your second battery under bonnet as most here do, its higher resting voltage when charged will actually condition the cranking battery. Our car starts way better since we put in the Traxide/optima.

Have fun with your new toy :)

[l00kin4]

As to aquanaught's original question (the dual battery system part) , can't give too much advice on which way to go with your current gear. Can however say that there are many very happy Traxide customers on here. From my perspective:


- brilliant kit with everything pre-cut and ready to go;
- straightforward DIY installation;
- if you do need help Tim (drivesafe on here) will help you;
- works like a dream


David


p.s. it's well worth having a read of the D3/D4/RRS FAQ sticky at the top of this section

[Canaussie]

Yep traxide is the way to go

[LandyAndy]

Having fitted Traxide gear to 4 previous Landys I wouldnt go with any other.
The latest was my brand new D4.
Instructions so easy to follow,everything made to fit and it fits perfect.
There are specific wiring needs for these vehicles make sure you get it right before fitting the dual battery system and especially the trailer brake controler.Most of us here have fitted the Redarc Tow Pro,as there isnt much room to instal conventional controlers.Make sure you read the sticky up top as its the only way you can wire controlers in these vehicles.IMPORTANT
ENJOY:):):):)
Andrew

[Oztourer]

eBay/Gumtree the Redarc and Projecta and put the proceeds towards a Traxide!!

[irondoc]

I use a Redarc - the 200 amp one (SB212 ????), not the 100 amp one as I found them to be more reliable/last longer when I ran them in my previous landcruisers.

The main reason is that it cuts out at 12.5V. Tim/Drivesafe's Traxide kit. as I understand, cuts out at 12.0V, and there are some very good reasons for this to occur given the nuances of the Disco electric system. However, I have the 2.7L engine, and, as I understand, this engine runs a slightly different electrical/alternator system to the 3.0L.

Happy to stand corrected....

Cheers
Lucas

[Meken]

Another happy Traxide customer - is truly a straight forward diy kit. You definitely want to use the optima for the 2nd as it accepts charge at a faster rate so gets to a higher soc faster & then tops up the cranking battery

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and thanks for all the thumbs up.

Hi Gary, and those two isolators will work in a D4.

BUT. if you are yet to buy cabling and everything else to be able to carryout the installation a full dual battery system in your D4, then, as suggested by Oztourer, flog the two isolators off on Ebay and one of my kit would most likely work out a cheaper proposition.

They are definitely easier to fit as well giving you a number of serious advantages over any other type of dual battery system for the D4s.

Hi Lucas, your 2.7L D4 has very similar electrics and alternator operation to a D3.

The earlier versions of the 3L D4 have a different operating system to the D3 and the latest D4s have now got another operating system.

My isolators not only work in all versions of the D3 and D4 without any adverse effects, they also improve the condition and operational life span of the cranking battery in every vehicle fitted with my isolators.

Gary, if you do decide to fit one of my kits, please be advised, while this is supposed to be the quietest time of the year for us, I am flat out supplying all the orders I have and there is a 3 week turnaround time from ordering to shipping.

[LandyAndy]

Bloody hell Tim.
No rest for the wicked:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

[scomac]

Fitted the Traxide D3 kit to the D4 on Sunday. All went well and done in a leisurely 5 hours. Works a treat and great instructions.

[aquanaught]

Many thanks for the feedback. I get to pick up the permagrin tomorrow [emoji3].
My first job is to get a tow pro installed. Got all the goods ready to go in, just need to get the diode from jaycar. I may well be pulling apart a car less than a day old[emoji30][emoji50][emoji26].

Tim, I will pm you about the basic Traxide install with isolator as I have all the other wires and bits and pieces for the Anderson plug and fridge in the back which I will install at the same time as the tow pro.

Gary

[Meken]

Tim's kits are very very very well done with beautiful workmanship

[LandyAndy]

Gary.
Before you do a custom wiring job,be aware these vehicles are designed for a body off for certain repairs.If you dont have wiring the way Tims kit is you will be up for extra expenses into the future to remove/re-install the wiring.
Tims kit is all in the body.
Andrew

[aquanaught]

Hi Andrew,
I am not sure what you mean by body off repairs. How would this impact on wires running down the drivers side to the back?
You have me concerned.
Gary

[LandyAndy]

As long as you are aware the wires need to be body mounted not chassis mounted there wont be an issue.
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

As long as you are aware the wires need to be body mounted not chassis mounted there wont be an issue.
Andrew

Later in life some of the belt replacements require a body off to complete.Its OK the vehicle was designed this way;););)
If you have a self designed battery system that involves running the power down the chassis for a trailer or van you could eventually end up in strife!!!!
Andrew

[aquanaught]

Cheers, assume it is good to run the wires down to the rear inside the car.

[LandyAndy]

Sounds like you are onto the issue:cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

[DI5CO]

How did you go aquanaut? Smiling??!! Lol[emoji2][emoji2]
I got my tow pro and LED load box thing installed on Thursday. The load box is installed in the car and I have a switch next to the 12v power to turn it on if I'm towing something with LED lights. Neat install too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/804.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/805.jpg
Dave.

[JamesAdelaide]

Hi Guys,

Perfect timing for this thread, just picked up my new MY2015 D4 SE on friday, loving it.

I am a little dubious about the whole traxide concept, i.e. I have always had traditional voltage sensing relays and always kept my cranking battery setup to cut out around 12.6/12.7 volts.

Is it really safe to let your cranking battery run down to 12.0 when camped in one spot for a a few days?

My auto-electrician is steering me towards using a RedArc BCDC charger/isolator instead. My concern is though it seems we are very limited with size of the second battery in the D4?

Can you swap the position of the cranking and aux batteries, i.e. fitting a bigger 100/120 amp hour AGM into the original cranking battery position?
This ios what I ahve now in my Pajero and my aux battery is 130amp hour agm.

I am only considering this as we camp in the nullarbor (cave diving) and in our old 4wd we run a 130 amp hour battery running 2 x 50 Litre fridges.
I am a little worried the traxide setup with an optima might struggle with this.

I do have a yellow top optima already, so I ghuess I could buy one more, run 2 x optima's and with the traxide setup, this gives me 65% of 180 amp hours I think.

We of course run a solar panel for trickle charge and generally run our genny and fully charge every day or two, but knowing I have 130amp hour capcity is comforting.

Feedback greatly welcomed on any of this.

[DI5CO]

Hi JamesAdelaide
I'm in the same situation too, about to setup my dual battery, I was going to get traxide system, but 2 autoelecs have steered me to Redarc too. They probably don't understand how it works. They were concerned how the isolator would fully charge the 2nd battery fully. But everyone here has glowing reports of the traxide system.

[drivesafe]

I am a little dubious about the whole traxide concept, i.e. I have always had traditional voltage sensing relays and always kept my cranking battery setup to cut out around 12.6/12.7 volts.

Is it really safe to let your cranking battery run down to 12.0 when camped in one spot for a a few days?

Hi James and if you want, I can run through all the advantages my isolators offer over every other type of dual battery system, but some basic facts may help you.

The SC80 has been in production in it's present form for more than 25 years and there are more than 4,000 D3s and D4, world wide, fitted with my gear.

You can find my isolators in D3s and D4s throughout Australia, Asia, the Middle East, Europe, North America and that includes up in the Arctic Circle and no one has problems.

[aquanaught]

Hi Dave

We've been grinning all day [emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji41]. It goes like a dream and am very much looking forward to our trip to Arkaroola next month in it.

Your install looks great and will put the tow-pro controller in the same place. I decided not to pull the car apart on day one so will install it tomorrow.

I haven't made my mind up about the aux battery install yet as I will run the fridge in the Tvan for the upcoming trip and deal with it later, so no need to rush.

I also had reservations about a low voltage cutout but it would appear by all accounts to be working well on a number of D4s so perhaps the OEM starter battery can handle the cycling down to 12v with no loss of life.

Gary

[drivesafe]

I also had reservations about a low voltage cutout but it would appear by all accounts to be working well on a number of D4s so perhaps the OEM starter battery can handle the cycling down to 12v with no loss of life.

Gary

Hi Gary and the opposite is the case. Because of the way my isolators work, they extend the operating life of both the auxiliary battery and the cranking battery.

The reason for this is that while you are camping, yes you are drawing from both the auxiliary battery and the cranking battery, so this lessens the load on the auxiliary battery over what it would have to do in any other setup.

Again, because of the way my isolators work, in normal daily use, the batteries work the other way round.

Because both batteries will normally be connected at all times, when you start your motor, the bulk of the energy used to start the motor will come from the cranking battery but a good portion will also come from the auxiliary battery.

This has a number of advantages.

First, the obvious is that the cranking battery does not have to be worked as hard as it would in any other D4.

Next, because less energy is drawn from the cranking battery while you start your motor, the cranking battery will be fully charged in a shorter driving time.

But you also have the major benefit of the auxiliary battery always being in a higher state of charge, so it continually back discharges into the cranking battery, keeping it in a higher state of charge as compared to any other vehicle's cranking battery.

So while you get the benefit of more usable battery capacity while off camping, around town my system helps to improve your cranking battery's condition and life span.

No other dual battery system offers these benefits.

[Silenceisgolden]

Hi Guys,


I am a little dubious about the whole traxide concept, i.e. I have always had traditional voltage sensing relays and always kept my cranking battery setup to cut out around 12.6/12.7 volts.

Is it really safe to let your cranking battery run down to 12.0 when camped in one spot for a a few days?

My auto-electrician is steering me towards using a RedArc BCDC charger/isolator instead. My concern is though it seems we are very limited with size of the second battery in the D4?

Can you swap the position of the cranking and aux batteries, i.e. fitting a bigger 100/120 amp hour AGM into the original cranking battery position?
This ios what I ahve now in my Pajero and my aux battery is 130amp hour agm.

I am only considering this as we camp in the nullarbor (cave diving) and in our old 4wd we run a 130 amp hour battery running 2 x 50 Litre fridges.
I am a little worried the traxide setup with an optima might struggle with this.

I do have a yellow top optima already, so I ghuess I could buy one more, run 2 x optima's and with the traxide setup, this gives me 65% of 180 amp hours I think.



Have you considered LiFePO4 batteries? Half the size and weight per usable amp/hours. Redarc do a BCDC set up for LiFePO4's which also accepts solar input. This would be the Rolls Royce of DBS's.

[drivesafe]

Have you considered LiFePO4 batteries? Half the size and weight per usable amp/hours. Redarc do a BCDC set up for LiFePO4's which also accepts solar input.

Hi Silence and that is not the case.

While you would thing you would save on weight, you do not and you will loose because of the huge cost difference of setting up for lithium batteries, and yet you still end up with less usable battery capacity available.

I have set up a number of D4s with lithium batteries and unless you have a specific need or use, they are just not worth the cost, again, because one of my systems still gives you far more usable battery capacity for a fraction of the cost, and for around the same weight per Ah available.

BTW if anybody does have a need for setting up a lithium battery system, I have 60 amp DC/DC devices, for a lot less than the 40 amp Redarc and the Redarc unit can only be used with lithium batteries.

Whereas my 60 amp units can be set to be used with any type of lead acid battery or lithium batteries.

My 60 amp Universal DC/DC units are about $200 cheaper than the dedicated 40 amp Redarc units.

The only difference is that the Redarc has a solar input, but like all DC/DC devices, with solar, the input is useless when only one input source at a time can be used.

[RobA]

Have you considered LiFePO4 batteries? Half the size and weight per usable amp/hours. Redarc do a BCDC set up for LiFePO4's which also accepts solar input. This would be the Rolls Royce of DBS's.

Putting every thing else aside the key issues with LifePO4 at the moment is their price which is around 3 times that of any other battery and given the average user will not get the longevity benefits from this type of battery I suggest there is plenty of life left in the current range of normal (AGM, SLA & Calcium) batteries yet.

We have a dual LifePO4 system in our Ultimate which is a necessity for me as it runs the inverter and my CPAP machine perfectly so happy we can camp remotely for extended periods and rely mainly on the amorphous panels to keep the batteries topped up

In regard to our D4 we have been using the Traxide system over the last year since we purchased the car and our duty cycle on battery use is significantly higher than the average owner as we operate a tag along and training business so cars, campers and fridges are on the go all the time

So far the Traxide system has worked as described and a key issue is keeping the batteries conditioned on a regular basis. I have no issues with the reserve capacity of the yellow top thus far powering a 50L Waeco CFX. It gives us a few days if not topped up by the alternator but as the car is used daily that is not really an issue. As well we can plug the panels in if required

It is all about how you approach your needs in a systemic way

Rob

[Silenceisgolden]

Hi Silence and that is not the case.

While you would thing you would save on weight, you do not and you will loose because of the huge cost difference of setting up for lithium batteries, and yet you still end up with less usable battery capacity available.

Sorry Tim, I think you are mistaken there. Look at any of the many data sheets and you will see the LiFePO4 batteries DO save on weight and size, to the tune of 50% or better. I agree, LiFePO4/Redarc are not as cheap as AGM's/Traxide etc, which is why I described them as the Rolls Royce system. But for anyone short on space for their required energy needs, they may be the only answer.

[strangy]

While the Li Po batteries are the current "hero" of the battery world.
I have reservations using them in any circumstance fitted to the vehicle.

When these things let go you can wave goodbye to your rig and they let go at a surprising frequency over all manner of equipment.
On top of the "normal" failures through wiring faults etc. LiPo batteries are prone to violent flames/ venting from all manner of influences which conventional cells are not typically known for.

Our company now has procedures and equipment in place to help protect us from the multitudes of equipment fitted with LiPo failing.
In the last 12 months we have had 4 events. Prior to LiPo equipment we had none.

I'm sure many are happy campers. But for now, wouldn't be my choice for additional power.

[Silenceisgolden]

While the Li Po batteries are the current "hero" of the battery world.
I have reservations using them in any circumstance fitted to the vehicle.

When these things let go you can wave goodbye to your rig and they let go at a surprising frequency over all manner of equipment.
On top of the "normal" failures through wiring faults etc. LiPo batteries are prone to violent flames/ venting from all manner of influences which conventional cells are not typically known for.

Our company now has procedures and equipment in place to help protect us from the multitudes of equipment fitted with LiPo failing.
In the last 12 months we have had 4 events. Prior to LiPo equipment we had none.

I'm sure many are happy campers. But for now, wouldn't be my choice for additional power.

That may be true for Lithium-ion cells, but the LiFePO4 cells are considered very safe. Economically AGM's etc still do stack up better if life-time is not taken into account. But for anyone space or weight challenged, LiFePO4 are the answer. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery

Besides, there are lots of Tesla cars running around safely, and lots of mobility scooters, and lots of electric boosted push-bikes etc etc.

[RobA]

While the Li Po batteries are the current "hero" of the battery world.
I have reservations using them in any circumstance fitted to the vehicle.

When these things let go you can wave goodbye to your rig and they let go at a surprising frequency over all manner of equipment.
On top of the "normal" failures through wiring faults etc. LiPo batteries are prone to violent flames/ venting from all manner of influences which conventional cells are not typically known for.

Our company now has procedures and equipment in place to help protect us from the multitudes of equipment fitted with LiPo failing.
In the last 12 months we have had 4 events. Prior to LiPo equipment we had none.

I'm sure many are happy campers. But for now, wouldn't be my choice for additional power.

Your comments are interesting and point to the need to clearly understand the difference between Lithium Iron (LifePO4) and Lithium Ion (LiCoO2) the latter of which is the dangerous one. Recollect 2013 and a Boeing 777 to start with.

The chemistry and technology around the LifePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) is considerable different from the Lithium Cobalt Oxide of the LiCoO2 batteries and there remains a considerably need to help users of both types understand how to manage them.

To understand this I suggest going to this link http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/files/colriversfeb.pdf and reading Collyn Rivers informative article on the subject.

The failures you have described sound more like LiCoO2 battery issues as I am not aware of any in the LifePO4 area apart from where home builders have put together cells to make a battery without understanding the specifics required to correctly engineer, charge and maintain them

I am completely comfortable with the safety of the LifePO4 battery and charging systems that are commercially available. What we are continually finding with this subject is the need for the industry to actually put some decent information out to help potential purchasers sort out the chaff from the wheat.

Rob

[drivesafe]

Sorry Tim, I think you are mistaken there.

Hi again Silence, with one of my systems fitted, you have 90Ah available, but to get that same usable capacity, you need to fit a 110Ah LiFePO4 battery, which would be way, WAY to big to fit in the auxiliary battery compartment.

So you would have to fit it in the rear cargo area.

This will now give you a lose of space, additional weight, a huge additional expense and all you have done is equaled the usable capacity of what one of my standard DBS kits can already do, for a fraction of the cost.

Furthermore, you will NOT be getting any benefit for your cranking battery.

[Silenceisgolden]

Hi again Silence, with one of my systems fitted, you have 90Ah available, but to get that same usable capacity, you need to fit a 110Ah LiFePO4 battery, which would be way, WAY to big to fit in the auxiliary battery compartment.

So you would have to fit it in the rear cargo area.

This will now give you a lose of space, additional weight, a huge additional expense and all you have done is equaled the usable capacity of what one of my standard DBS kits can already do, for a fraction of the cost.

Furthermore, you will NOT be getting any benefit for your cranking battery.

Hi Tim, a Winston 100Ah (3.6 volt) battery is 218x179x62 and weighs 3.6 kilograms. Four are strapped together giving a battery 218x179x248 weighing 14.4 kilograms with a usable capacity of 80 Ah, equal to 160 Ah of AGM batteries. See EV-Power | WB-LYP100AHA LiFeYPO4 (3.2V/100Ah WIDE) (http://www.ev-power.eu/Winston-40Ah-200Ah/WB-LYP100AHA-LiFeYPO4-3-2V-100Ah-WIDE.html)

Tim, I am not a great fan of these batteries, they are still a bit new, while AGM's are fully known mature technology. But they DO have more usable energy per unit weight and size than AGM's.

[drivesafe]

For a starter, the instant I see Lithium battery suppliers making statements like "a lithium battery's 60Ah = 160Ah of AGMs" as it is pure bolox, I do not trust another thing they make claim to.

A 100Ah lithium battery has 80Ah of usable capacity, just as a 100Ah STANDARD AGM battery has 80Ah of usable capacity.

Next, your specialised lithium battery setup still falls 10Ah short of the 90Ah my Off-The-Shelf setup can provide and as far as weight saving goes, you haven't added the cost, weight, and space required for the special charging needed when using lithium batteries in any motor vehicle!

And your setup has none of the other benefits my systems offer!

Your math just does not add up!

[Silenceisgolden]

For a starter, the instant I see Lithium battery suppliers making statements like "a lithium battery's 60Ah = 160Ah of AGMs" as it is pure bolox, I do not trust another thing they make claim to.

A 100Ah lithium battery has 80Ah of usable capacity, just as a 100Ah STANDARD AGM battery has 80Ah of usable capacity.

Next, your specialised lithium battery setup still falls 10Ah short of the 90Ah my Off-The-Shelf setup can provide and as far as weight saving goes, you haven't added the cost, weight, and space required for the special charging needed when using lithium batteries in any motor vehicle!

And your setup has none of the other benefits my systems offer!

Your math just does not add up!


Tim, JamesAdelaide was concerned about space and there is no doubt at all that LiFePO4 batteries give more energy per unit size. Just look at a few websites, it is true and un-arguable.

Also, on ANY battery website you will see that taking 80Ah from 100Ah AGM's or similar 100Ah batteries will hugely shorten their lives. 80Ah CAN be safely taken from 100Ah LiFePO4's - others can not be done safely. This is absolutely common knowledge I would expect you to know - check ANY battery manufacturers website.

Tim, one size does not fit all. I am sure your system is fine, and no doubt the simplest of all to install with your excellent kit, but it is not for everyone. Some users will need a bit more and they have the right to know what the alternatives are. LiFePO4 with Redarc is no doubt more expensive, but for those who want more it may be justifiable. After all, the D4 itself is pretty high tech! Cheers Tim, keep smiling!

[drivesafe]

LiFePO4 with Redarc is no doubt more expensive, but for those who want more it may be justifiable.

My last post on this subject.

Not once have you shown how anybody gets more than a bigger bill.

People actually get less with your suggested setup but pay a huge amount more to get less.

I'm all for new things that improve what ever we are doing or trying to do.

But Lithium battery setups in D4s are not a step forward, and are only relevant, as I stated much earlier in this thread, if you have a specific need for them.

Everybody else just looses heaps of money unnecessarily if they go down that road.

[p38arover]

For a starter, the instant I see Lithium battery suppliers making statements like "a lithium battery's 60Ah = 160Ah of AGMs" as it is pure bolox, I do not trust another thing they make claim to.

Tim, I think you misread this (my bolding of the text):


But they DO have more usable energy per unit weight and size than AGM's.

That was my understanding - for the same Ah rating, the lithium is a smaller package than the AGM.

Is that not correct?

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron and no the claim put forward by many of the Lithium battery sellers is that for an AGM to be able to supply similar Ah for the same number of cycles that a lithium battery can, the AGM must not be discharged below 75% SoC or the cycles will reduce.

So you therefore need more AGMs than lithiums, to be able to supply the same amount of Ah.

This is correct, but like most seller's hype, the full facts are slightly different.

These sellers of lithiums neglect to point out that AGMs can be bought for a hell of a lot less than comparable sized lithium batteries.

So if you cycle the AGMs down to 20% SoC, the AGM is not going to give you anywhere near the same number of cycles as a lithium, but because AGMs can be a fraction of the cost, you can still get similar usable Ah per dollars spent, but spread over a number of batteries, and your cost is spread over a long time period as well.

Here is another fact most people are unaware of. Just like lead acid batteries, most lithium batteries suffer from reduced life span if you cycle them continually down to 20%. You only find this type of data if you know where to source it from.

Furthermore, I have been working with a number of different brands of lithium batteries for around 5 years now, and there is still a lot of misinformation out there and a lot of crappy lithium batteries ( just like some crappy lead acid batteries ) so again, you need to know where to get correct info.

To get honest info about lithium batteries, you should source the info from US lithium battery manufacturer's web sites and take little notice of what sellers claim.

[apachefreak]

Sounds to me traxide is the way to go,
hey Drivesafe,
what system would you recommend if I have a 9000lb winch on my D4?
and what battery capacity should i be looking for?
cheers in advance
Ray

[drivesafe]

Hi Ray, battery capacity while winching is dependant on the output capacity of your alternator and whether you are competition winching.

The D4 has a huge output capacity so it's fine, the only other consideration is how you plan to you your winch.

For now I will work on the premise that your use is recreational and not competition ( correct me if otherwise ).

As best practice while winching is to have your motor on high idle and winch for 60 second and then rest for 90. Repeat until winching is completed.

With the 180 amp D4 alternator, you can keep auxiliary battery size down, particularly if you use a high current charging battery like an Optima.

With exception to running your winch into stall, where the current demands are very high, most of the time you are unlikely to draw more than 300 amps, peaking to under 400.

But you can go well over 400 amps and still be with in the operating limits of your D4.

You would also tolerate a stall current of up to 600+ amps, for a short time.

These sorts of currents are easily maintained when one of my USI-160 isolators is use to like the auxiliary battery to the cranking battery during winching.

Ray there are three D4 Dual Battery kits designed around the USI-160 isolator, and if you want additional battery capacity, either to assist with winching and/or for additional accessories battery capacity, there are there Triple Battery kits that will fit "MOST" D4s.

[apachefreak]

Thats fantastic,
thanks heaps Drivesafe!
yeah only rec winching here and hoping to put a fridge/freezer in the rear for camp out trips when fishing etc

Have been checking out the optima batteries,
whats the typical Ah people install for dual battery systems?
i see the 55Ah seems to be an affordable price, but i dont know if this would be enough for a 60ltr fridge?

looks like the USI-160 is the one for me :)

[gghaggis]

Thats fantastic,
thanks heaps Drivesafe!
yeah only rec winching here and hoping to put a fridge/freezer in the rear for camp out trips when fishing etc

Have been checking out the optima batteries,
whats the typical Ah people install for dual battery systems?
i see the 55Ah seems to be an affordable price, but i dont know if this would be enough for a 60ltr fridge?

looks like the USI-160 is the one for me :)

The 55AH Yellow Top will be fine. Remember you're also scavenging some reserve out of the primary with the USI-160, so in reality it's closer to a standard system with a 90AH second battery.

Cheers

Gordon

[RickO]

.....These sorts of currents are easily maintained when one of my USI-160 isolators is use to like the auxiliary battery to the cranking battery during winching.

....


Hi Tim,

Is the SC80 also able to tolerate these amps while winching or should I be thinking of upgrading?

Cheers,
RickO

[drivesafe]

Hi Rick and sorry, the SC80 is not designed for use with winches.

BUT, there are two options, and one is to replace the SC80 with a USI-160.

Or a cheaper operation is to keep the SC80 and add a bypass switch, a 250 amp ( or higher ) marine battery switch. See the diagram below.

Either way, don't forget to upgrade the cabling between the batteries from the standard 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) to at least 3B&S ( 25mm2 ).

Again, there are two cable upgrading options.

You can either replace the 6B&S with 3B&S.

Or you can run another length of 6B&S in parallel with the existing 6B&S and this will give you roughly 27mm2 cabling.

NOTE, remember you have to upgrade all negative ( - ) cables as well as the positive ( + ) cables.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/651.jpg

[ytt105]

Hi Drivesafe

Just saw this post about NOT running a winch through the SC80 that I have installed.

My car has a winch and I've had no problems winching, admittedly I've only ever used it to pull the van into position

What would be first to fail?

Also, the diagram you posted doesn't actually explain what I connect to the switch. I assume its the main positive cable from the main battery to the SC80.

[drivesafe]

Hi ytt105, and that is an old diagram, but whether you have the SC80 ( as in the diagram ) or an SC80-CB, in both cases, the circuit breaker will do as it is intended to do and nothing should fail.

You will just loose the advantage of having the second battery while winching.

When I get some spare time, ( don't know when that will be ) I will draw up a new diagram for the SC80-CB.

In the mean time, the RED coming from the SC80-CB goes to the cranking battery side of the Marine Battery Switch.

The RED coming from the Circuit Breaker on the side of the SC80-CB goes to the Auxiliary Battery side of the Marine Battery Switch.