Optima Red/Blue/Yellow Batteries

[blackrangie]

Has anyone fitted optimas to their RRC if so what is the biggest you can fit and was any trimming needed?

If anyone has pics it would be unreal, farely urgent, cheers

[Eevo]

d31, d34 both fit

[incisor]

D34 red and yellow under my 88's bonnet

red on the drivers side yellow on the passenger side for all the accessories etc etc

[Vern]

1 d34 red and 2 d34 yellows in mine

[blackrangie]

1 d34 red and 2 d34 yellows in mine

1 yellow in back or 2 yellows on passenger side, pics? :D

[Vern]

Red and yellow up front, yellow in back

[blackrangie]

Red and yellow up front, yellow in back

Very nice! :cool:

[Mercguy]

Curious as to how you achieved the fitment of a D31 to the engine bay. I could not fit one in my RRC.

[Eevo]

Curious as to how you achieved the fitment of a D31 to the engine bay. I could not fit one in my RRC.
it wasnt my car
i dont know how it was done.
i just recall seeing it fit where the battery normally goes.

[Mercguy]

OK.
I run a Deka intimidator 9A31PH in my SL. Had it in there since 2009.
It's 925CCA marine starting rated.
Suitable for deep cycle as well.
31KG
LxWxH = 330x171x241mm

I bought another for the RRC as an aux battery, simply because I couldn't get a decent unit with more than 620CCA in the original battery space when I needed one...

It's an interesting comparison with the Optima yellow top.
Dimensionally, they are almost identical. The Optima is only rated at 75Ah, the deka is 100Ah. reserve on the optima is 155, 190 on the deka. The Optima is almost half the mass of the deka and it shows in the unit specification.

9A31PH (http://www.federalbatteries.com.au/9A31PH/)

D31T (http://www.federalbatteries.com.au/D31T/)

D34 (http://www.federalbatteries.com.au/D34/)

While weight is a consideration, there is one thing I prefer to have in the same physical package, and that is more stored energy.
I have used a number of other AGM batteries before and found some of them to be worthless, especially where shock loading and vibration is a concern. In a marine environment where it is a constant issue, my last 2 batteries in the Merc's were odyssey and optima. I have to admit, the optima wasn't bad, but it didn't last 2 months beyond warranty. the Odyssey PC1500 was a PITA to fit, and I ended up putting it in the boat, where it failed from vibration & shock loading. It was replaced under warranty twice. Second time I was offered a Deka as the replacement, and I haven't looked back.

If you want a robust starting battery, the heavy duty Amaron battery is very good. Unfortunately for me, I was not able to obtain one when the battery in my RRC (NRMA) failed not long after I purchased the vehicle. I ended up with a Century Marine heavy duty, which was the only thing that was available in the area I was 'stranded' and would fit in the space without modification. I'm still looking for a better solution for such a physically small starting battery.

[blackrangie]

Anyone found a solid way to tie down thier optimas other than the usual supercreap specifically looking for RRC applications, but any help apprecited

[Homestar]

Curious as to how you achieved the fitment of a D31 to the engine bay. I could not fit one in my RRC.

They will fit - same as an N86 will fit (just) if you move the wiring out the way that sits on the inside of the guard to the top (quite a big job), trim the radiator support panel down and move a couple of small brackets down where the bottom of the battery sits. I used to run 2 x N86's in my RRC - I only run 2 x N70's now. I can take some pics tomorrow arvo of my RRC and how I did it. The D31 is slightly shorter in length than the N86 so would fit fine with these mods done, but wouldn't fit without getting a grinder out. :)

[blackrangie]

They will fit - same as an N86 will fit (just) if you move the wiring out the way that sits on the inside of the guard to the top (quite a big job), trim the radiator support panel down and move a couple of small brackets down where the bottom of the battery sits. I used to run 2 x N86's in my RRC - I only run 2 x N70's now. I can take some pics tomorrow arvo of my RRC and how I did it. The D31 is slightly shorter in length than the N86 so would fit fine with these mods done, but wouldn't fit without getting a grinder out. :)

Cheers, more interested in the physical tying/clamping down of them, supercreap stuff just doesnt cut it in the rough stuff ;)

[Homestar]

Not much help there sorry, when I had the N86's in there, there was only enough room for gravity to be used to hold them there...:D

I run standard N70ZZ's now - clamps are just bits of angle iron screwed down with bolts welded to rods that hook under the tray.

[rrturboD]

I currently run a 34 red top as starter and D27F yellow top as deep cycle.
Because I had mounted my winch relays beside radiator on left side, D27 would not fit there, so swapped roles. I shortened the existing battery-starter cable to suit.
Re clamps ... welded my own using angle and square tube.
Photo to follow when I get home and can take pic.

[PhilipA]

You can buy a restraint at Supercheap which has a reinforced Nylon bridge and two bolts with "Us" on the end.

You have to shorten one bolt and rebend the U but the rear bolt will fit as is into a hole in the guard. The front will fit into a hole in the radiator panel when bent correctly.
Regards Philip A

[DiscoMick]

Anyone found a solid way to tie down thier optimas other than the usual supercreap specifically looking for RRC applications, but any help apprecited

Used lengths of angle iron and normal battery poles when I had to lay the Kickass AGM flat to fit in the limited height of the space in the rear of the drawer set in the Defender because nothing off the shelf would do the job. Can't see why it wouldn't work with an Optima. Just cut to required length.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[blackrangie]

You can buy a restraint at Supercheap which has a reinforced Nylon bridge and two bolts with "Us" on the end.

You have to shorten one bolt and rebend the U but the rear bolt will fit as is into a hole in the guard. The front will fit into a hole in the radiator panel when bent correctly.
Regards Philip A

They dont last where the washer and plastic meet :thumbdown:

[blackrangie]

I currently run a 34 red top as starter and D27F yellow top as deep cycle.
Because I had mounted my winch relays beside radiator on left side, D27 would not fit there, so swapped roles. I shortened the existing battery-starter cable to suit.
Re clamps ... welded my own using angle and square tube.
Photo to follow when I get home and can take pic.

Pics??

[PhilipA]

They dont last where the washer and plastic meet :thumbdown:
Mine did for 8 years and lots of Off road.
Maybe you have mechanic's sump plug disease.
Regards Philip A

[blackrangie]

Mine did for 8 years and lots of Off road.
Maybe you have mechanic's sump plug disease.
Regards Philip A

Bats only been in and out once or twice, have a feeling it was due to optimas being a little small for RRC battery hole and being allowed to potentially move left,right, forward and back.

Need something tuffer, looks like uts a custom job if nothing off the shelf

[rrturboD]

Pics, Yellow on drivers side, just fits and clears the oil cooler lines.
Red on passenger side.
You can see the clamps too.

[Mercguy]

I guess one of the advantages of the 300tdi install is that you appear to not have the HVAC condenser hardlines between the radiator and main starting battery, your Header tank is relocated and your aircleaner barrel is also.

with the 3.9 under there, the HVAC compressor is pretty much where your header tank is, the lines from the condenser core run next to the radiator, effectively reducing the ability to fit a longer unit in there.

Looks like you are Lucky!

[blackrangie]

Pics, Yellow on drivers side, just fits and clears the oil cooler lines.
Red on passenger side.
You can see the clamps too.

Very nice..love the nice and simple clamps