1993 EAS fuse??

[roverv8]

My dad was driving his 93 RRC with EAS.
the suspension lowered itself whilst driving & now wont pump up.
Anyone know where the fuse is for the air pump/cmpressor as it doesn't seem to run anymore.
Cheers

[superquag]

Under driver's seat, outer trim panel.

BIG fuse... you can't miss it.

But, how do you know the EAS computer is not having internal conniptions... ?

- Dropping to lowest height is a give-away that it fears a fatal fault... you need an EAS Kicker to fault-find.

https://blackbox-solutions.com/products.html

[roverv8]

well, its been working fine,
check the easy things first, and i cant hear the compressor going anymore

[superquag]

Don't quote me... but from Ancient Memories... there's a normal sized fuse in with the rest of the car's fuses. This powers the EAS - ECU.

IF the main and other fuses are OK, then the reason the pump is stopped is.... it ain't being told to GO.

Check with RAVE ( CD is available here on Dave's Shop) for the wiring of the pump, so that you can 'manually' power it up.
They did have a problem around the brush-holder assembly and a modification to this bit is usually done at overhaul time.

IF your pump has never been re-furbished, then.... . . . :o

By all means do the Simple Stuff first... but bottom-line is.... "Is the pump being commanded to operate ?"

[PLR]

well, its been working fine,
check the easy things first, and i cant hear the compressor going anymore

G`day ,

The other is B4 but the ignition relay also uses it so if it`s running it`s probably not .

The main maxi fuse is under the drive seat .

I`d have to find it but somewhere i have the ecu pin numbers and which ones to bridge to run the pump , fill each bag ETC .

If you try to hard wire the pump to run it be aware you have to pick the right 2 wires because if you power the 3rd wrong one the overload no longer works nor will the pump without earthing the 3rd wire but as said no overload , i forget the wire colours .

Let me know if you want the ecu pins and ask your dad if it has 3 solid lights on the switches .

[roverv8]

thanks for the replies, ive only, (my dad too) had RRC's with springs....
The guy he bought it off said all the air suspension had been refurbished & has worked perfect since he bought it 6/7 months ago

[PLR]

thanks for the replies, ive only, (my dad too) had RRC's with springs....
The guy he bought it off said all the air suspension had been refurbished & has worked perfect since he bought it 6/7 months ago

G`day ,

can`t tell you what`s wrong but if the pump works and it will hold air , we can get it off the bump stops by using the ecu plug pins and set it to a single height so he can use it or drive it to some software .

[roverv8]

ok, thanks, might take me a while to get to look at it.
maybe later in the week, i'll post anything i find
Cheers

[superquag]

YESTERDAY was the best time to invest in or make an "EAS-Rescue" kit.

Second - best time is today.

Basically, it is an inline air-tap, Schraeder valve and a T-piece, all joined with suitable lengths of air-hose.

There is one for each of the air-bags, and it 'allows' the bag to choose it's preferred air-supplier.... Through the (open) air tap from the EAS system, or -CLOSED tap - direct from any air pump / servo / manual air pump etc, through the Schraeder valve.

On the Lady Sarah, the front two live next to the PAS reservoir/above the horns, and the rear pair - sad to say - are hanging under the chassis at the rear, in front of the bumper...
But I can get to them easily, and turn off (Isolate) each wheel.

The 'cheap & cheerful' setup is... a schraeder valve in a hose fitting, and a length of hose. Again, one for each corner.... you remove the system-hose going INto each one, and replace with the above, and manually fill with air.... but good luck in fitting it to the rears when they're deflated !:o

P38 owners have the advantage, with the EAS system resident in the Engine Room... so it's easy to access the 4 air-hoses at the source.

[roverv8]

Ok had a bit of look
Maxi fuse ok, light flashes on the up button, center button lights up when pressed.
there is a clicking noise coming from the steel box under the drivers door which i think houses the valve block.
Im hoping for something simple..
how do I access the stuff inside, does that steel box drop down?

[PLR]

Ok had a bit of look
Maxi fuse ok, light flashes on the up button, center button lights up when pressed.
there is a clicking noise coming from the steel box under the drivers door which i think houses the valve block.
Im hoping for something simple..
how do I access the stuff inside, does that steel box drop down?

G`day ,

the click may be a solenoid or the pump .

If they are still flashing and working when pushed , that`s a good thing because it hasn`t hard faulted as yet . When hard faulted the lights go solid .

Yes , valve block and driver ( which will be one unit on yours most likely , next model is 2 seperate units like a P38a ) also the compressor is there .

The box unbolts ( 4 bolts ) and will hang down but the wiring and air hoses will have pressure put on them if you don`t have something the right height to sit the box on .

First though , i`d suggest you try jumping the ECU .

If you look under the drive seat you`ll find 2 ECUs the top 1 closest to the seat base is the EAS ECU . There is a panel where you heals would be if sitting in the seat and you moved your feet to the seat base ( unclips )

A piece of wire , with 2 bare ends , house power , single strand is good , black .

With the key out of the ignition unplug the ECU ( key in and on will hard fault )

Jump pin 1 and 8 and the compressor should run .
Pin 1 is power . ( try with a test light )

You`ll see there are 2 rows of pins in the plug , one is longer than the other

The longer row is Pins 1 to 18 .

The shorter row is Pins 19 to 35 .

Pin 1 is closest to where the wires enter the plug in the longer row .

Pin 19 is closest to where the wires enter the plug in the short row .

The plug unclips from the ECU the side the wires are .

Let me know if the pump runs , if it does i`ll give you the pins to put air into and out of each Bag/corner ETC and that way you can check what the valve block is doing , if you like .

[roverv8]

ok, with the key out, i dont have any power to pin 1...
checked all the fuses i can find, they all look good.
should I have power at pin 1 without the ignition on?? as i dont want to hard fault it
Thanks

also- does it matter if doors/bonnet is open doing this?

[PLR]

ok, with the key out, i dont have any power to pin 1...
checked all the fuses i can find, they all look good.
should I have power at pin 1 without the ignition on?? as i dont want to hard fault it
Thanks

also- does it matter if doors/bonnet is open doing this?

G`day ,

it should have power on it for 2 minutes when the door is open .

Yes , you need the ignition on II which will give constant power .

[roverv8]

ok, i cant seem to get power to pin 1, no volts at all
Fuse B4 all good, maxi all good, all the fuses under passenger seat look good, as all the other fuses i can see.
wiring looks good, hasn't been tampered with:confused:

[PLR]

ok, i cant seem to get power to pin 1, no volts at all
Fuse B4 all good, maxi all good, all the fuses under passenger seat look good, as all the other fuses i can see.
wiring looks good, hasn't been tampered with:confused:

G`day ,

wife`s out in the eas car so , just had a look at another of ours it`s a 93 on coils but most the eas is there .

It also had no power on pin 1

Have a look under the Maxi fuse and see if there is another fuse under it length ways closest to the floor .

I wasn`t aware of this fuse as our softdash EAS doesn`t have it .

[roverv8]

thanks, it will b tomorrow now, off to work
Cheers

[roverv8]

ok, no fuse there,
but pin 3 has power with ignition on, but not pin 1
wasn't game to jump anything from pin 3 as im now not sure what pin the compressor is???

[PLR]

ok, no fuse there,
but pin 3 has power with ignition on, but not pin 1
wasn't game to jump anything from pin 3 as im now not sure what pin the compressor is???

Compressor is Pin 8

If you remove the small philips head screw in the plug end , it slides apart and the numbers and wires relating to can be seen .

Pin 3 is orange/black and goes to one of the height sensors ( left front ). (This one doesn`t have sensors nor power on pin3 )

Pin 1 is grey with a red trace if you follow it back it goes to the bigger white relay , at the relay this one has power on the grey/red and purple white .

You need to find why Pin 1 has no power .

Never tried this 93 before , jumping 1 and 8 and i have a spare pump

[roverv8]

ok, some progress
Helps if 1 looks at the correct plug.....
jumping pin 1 & 8 makes the clicking noise from the steel box, like it does when car is running & doors shut
obviously there's a compressor issue, but what im yet to find out.
Is it easy to remove & are they expensive??

[PLR]

ok, some progress
Helps if 1 looks at the correct plug.....
jumping pin 1 & 8 makes the clicking noise from the steel box, like it does when car is running & doors shut
obviously there's a compressor issue, but what im yet to find out.
Is it easy to remove & are they expensive??

G`day ,

easy enough to remove the pump , mounts are a bit fiddly .

The manual will say to remove the whole box and disconnect everything but if the dryer is undone and moved out the pump can be removed .

First you could try jumping the relay wires , the yellow relay near the maxi fuse , pin 30 and 87 and see if the pump runs , doing this bypasses the thermal cut out so if left to run too long the pump will cook .

As is , no need to plug the ECU back in .

2nd Ed ....... And this Bit is getting Ahead of where your up to .

If you remove the pump and want to test it check for continuity between the black and green wires and only put positive 12v on the green wire and negative for the black .

Don`t put power on the orange wire or you will loose the thermal cutout .

The pumps are rebuild able so are the motors if the parts can be got .

The actual pump is unlikely to stop the motor .

The motor is like most , it uses brushes , it has a roller/ball bearing on the pump end and a bush mounted in a tin holder on the other end .

If the reason is no rotation of the motor it may be that the brush holder has fallen to bits or the brushes are worn out ETC .

To take motor apart , the 3 small rivets at the bush end need to be drilled out ( to be replaced by small self tappers or similar ) if not and forced apart the bush holder will be stretched and won`t hold properly .

If you find it beyond service and you can`t locate a classic pump , even though they are slightly different a P38a pump can be used but because they have a motor that is a little longer there is a need to make one new mount the other mount is the same , also the classic has 4 mounts and the p38 has 3 mounts .

The cylinder heads also need to be swapped because of the different uses of filters and their connections ETC .

3 ......... if you don`t know , to disconnect the air pipes just push the metal collar in and pull the pipe out .

[roverv8]

Thanks again for all your info.
Haven't had time to tackle it yet, as the car isn't here with me.(it's at my dads)
Got next week off so will sort it out then, will post my findings.
Cheers

[roverv8]

ok, had it to bits, got the compressor going.
When you push the button to raise the suspension, it just makes a continual clicking noise from the valve body, can't feel which solenoid it is or what is actually making the noise :confused:

[PLR]

ok, had it to bits, got the compressor going.
When you push the button to raise the suspension, it just makes a continual clicking noise from the valve body, can't feel which solenoid it is or what is actually making the noise :confused:

G`day ,

how have you got the pump to run ?

Does the pump keep running until it reaches cutout pressure ? ( as in normally )

Edit ..........

Without software i guess you`ll need to try manually to try to find what working and not .

You`ll need three lengths of wire , bare on each end .

Join three ends together so`s it`s one ( for power ), make one bare longer and join the other two to it . This is so the pin socket in the plug isn`t stretched as you`ll only be putting one thickness of wire in .

The other end will be three bare wires .

Remove the plug from the ECU as before with the ignition off . ( but turn ignition on when jumping )

Plug the single end into pin 1 .

To run the pump as needed jump one of the three ends in pin 8 ( there`s no need to run it all the time and you`ll hear what the solenoids are doing if it`s not )

Use another wire to jump pin 10 ( left front spring valve ) and another to pin 26 ( air inlet ) .

After you connect pin 26 the left front should start to rise .

Pin 11 and pin 26 will raise left rear .

Pin 27 and pin 26 will raise right front .

Pin 28 and pin 26 will raise right rear .

After you have it sitting around normal height ( not even , just up ) .

Use Pin 9 ( exhaust valve ) in place of pin 26 and it should lower on each corner you select .

If you do that much it will check some of the workings of the valve block and if one won`t go up or down ETC look there i guess .

[roverv8]

i removed the pump & hooked it to the battery.
It ran fine, after plugging it all back together it runs off the car as is it should.
back to where i started with the clicking coming from the valve body

[PLR]

i removed the pump & hooked it to the battery.
It ran fine, after plugging it all back together it runs off the car as is it should.
back to where i started with the clicking coming from the valve body

You could try above (edit ) if you like , it may show something .

[roverv8]

ready to throw a grenade in it and run....

[superquag]

Before the explosion ....

The clicking/clacking sound you hear is an air valve being triggered, so "something" appears to be working...

Air leaks, no matter how slow, WILL eventually kill a Range Rover's suspension...
Start at the 'bags, then the hose connectors...all the way back to the valve body. - Spray around each of the black round thingies...

Soapy water is fine, as is WINDEX, or go hi-tech and use bubble-mix... y'know, the stuff kids use to blow bubbles with.

I'd start by manually inflating all 4 bags... - You have built up a 'Rescue Set' of air fillers/Schraeder valves.. have'nt you....?

The other Sad News is... unless it's been done by a previous owner, the Valve Body will need an overhaul... new O rings etc throughout.
Detailed instructions -with pictures - are here,
somewhere....;)

Frustrating YES, however the sense of Satisfaction, afterwards,,,,, is priceless

[roverv8]

problem solved....
fitted a set of springs...my dad feels alot better about them too, he doesn't have to worry about the eas letting him down. no pun intended...lol:D

[PLR]

problem solved....
fitted a set of springs...my dad feels alot better about them too, he doesn't have to worry about the eas letting him down. no pun intended...lol:D

Yep , that will keep it up for a long time .

Which springs were decided on ?

Has he noticed much difference in ride quality ?

Have you just replaced the air springs with coils or have you removed it all ?

[superquag]

Understand perfectly... given my time over again I would have done exactly that... with 'Firestone' (internal spring) bags in the rear, for manual load-levelling / headlight adjustment. :)

You could... if desperate, go to full manual height control by adding the same type of internal-spring helpers to the FRONT coily thingies.

IF...the pump is working OK, AND filling up the air-tank in acceptable time, I'd be inclined to leave it in...and use it as 'on-board air' - You would need it for the helper-bags.

IMHO, the olde 89 Rover on coily thingies rode softer and nicer then my '95 EAS abomination.

[roverv8]

Yep , that will keep it up for a long time .

Which springs were decided on ?

Has he noticed much difference in ride quality ?

Have you just replaced the air springs with coils or have you removed it all ?

We have an 86 wreck, both the 86 & 93 have twin lpg under the rear, it was obvious the rears were heavier
neither has a bullbar, so the front springs looked fairly standard, I removed the 4 airbags, which look fairly new...blocked of the airlines to stop crap getting in them, pulled the compressor fuse.
fitted the springs, left the original, shocks in. seems to ride & handle the bumps very well, we took it out on a rough road we know of with some decent bends.. no probs.

[PLR]

G`day ,

i have noticed there is a difference in ride in certain situations between coils and air springs .

One of ours on coils with the load leveler still functioning sits at same height all the time as the EAS one when at raised height .

The coiled one never feels unstable ( even without sway bars ) on the road but i know if it hits something it is more likely to get roofed , where as the eas is much lower at speed .

Another one on coils with the eas removed sits around the same height as std height for eas and it doesn`t seem to drag itself on things much , it has sway bars and drives as with eas at speed .

They all have LPG and twin tanks , as long as loaded evenly the coiled ones sit level the eas doesn`t care how it`s loaded as it compensates .

The reason i asked how much of the eas was removed is because i keep an ear out for bits and if you Dad decides to remove it i may be interested .

The only eas car we have at present ( LSE was written off ) is the later one and the ride is smoother and speed humps at slow pace seem to be swallowed by it but part may be the longer wheel base but its not that much longer than a LSE .

It doesn`t lower as far as the LSE and to get to highway height you have to break to speed limit in places because it requires over 100 kph , LSE is 80 kph which makes more sense for our use .

Cheers

[roverv8]

no worries, atm i want to hang onto all the bits.
i don't think there was a real lot wrong with the EAS, when i removed the air bags, the front ones were firm with air, but the back ones were deflated, it was like the front was waiting for the back ones to rise, & that constant clicking noise from the valve block, anyway, something for another day..
Cheers Luke

[PLR]

That would make good sense .

In years to come it will be worth more than the average one .

EAS will only add to it , working or not .

Our LSE cost $139 for comp insurance ( one of the few advantaged of age ) and the payout fig was near $9K ( Market ) .

Couldn`t have sold it for that , maybe around half , i`d think but did make buying the L322 less painful .

Cheers