Problem fitting short roof rails to D4

[IndusD4]

I got a set of short roof rails which didn't look that hard to install. The one on the driver side went on ok but the passenger side I don't seem to be able to tighten up the bolts so the rail doesn't move. The result of trying to get it tighter is now a T30 head came off and of course the rest of the bolt is stuck very tight (photo 1).

Firstly, at least it sticks out a bit but any idea how to get it out?

Also the LR instructions made me think something had to be removed from the holes where the bolts fit in (photo 2), but I don't see what would need to be removed - if anything?

I didn't remove anything from these other than what seemed to be a bit of glue and the driver side seems to have been attached ok, straight and it is not moving at all (photo 3)

And any ideas how to get these bolts in tight enough so the roof rail doesn't move?

Thanks
Ron

[LRD414]

For removal have a look at something like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/471.jpg
Grabit Pro Industrial Series Broken Bolt & Damaged Screw Remover : Grabit Pro Bolt & Damaged Screw Remover #1 (http://www.excaliburtools.com/index.php/products/screw-bolt-nut-remover/pro-grabit-industrial-series-broken-bolt-damaged-screw-remover-510278a5b931d/8401p-510278a92c9fe-detail)

Or this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/472.jpg
Xtraktor Damaged Nut, Bolt & Stud Remover : XTRAKTOR 100M 5-piece Set 6-12mm (1/4"-1/2") (http://www.excaliburtools.com/index.php/products/screw-bolt-nut-remover/xtraktor-damaged-nut-bolt-stud-remover-510278a584752/xsb100ma-510278a7e1450-detail)

There are similar products available from Bunnings and Supercheap.
I purchased from Excalibur on a recommendation for quality.

Not sure what would be wrong with your rail fitting.
Once you get the broken bolt out have a close look in the hole.
Perhaps something was preventing it from getting to the bottom.

Scott

[letherm]

I got a set of short roof rails which didn't look that hard to install. The one on the driver side went on ok but the passenger side I don't seem to be able to tighten up the bolts so the rail doesn't move. The result of trying to get it tighter is now a T30 head came off and of course the rest of the bolt is stuck very tight (photo 1).

Firstly, at least it sticks out a bit but any idea how to get it out?

Also the LR instructions made me think something had to be removed from the holes where the bolts fit in (photo 2), but I don't see what would need to be removed - if anything?

I didn't remove anything from these other than what seemed to be a bit of glue and the driver side seems to have been attached ok, straight and it is not moving at all (photo 3)

And any ideas how to get these bolts in tight enough so the roof rail doesn't move?

Thanks
Ron

Here's a link that may help.

How to Remove a Broken Bolt: 10 Steps (with Pictures) (http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Broken-Bolt)

Sounds to me that the bolt concerned was too long or there was some garbage in the bottom of the hole and that has prevented the bolt from going in to its full length.

You obviously know how to do it correctly as the other side went on ok.

Martin

[IndusD4]

Thanks Scott and Martin, looks like an extractor bit is the way to go.

I'm not sure what would be in the hole stopping the bolt from going down any further but maybe another washer under the screw head could cure the issue.

Ron

[Basil135]

I take it you had to remove the plastic plugs, to install the roof rails. When I did mine, all bar 1 of the retaining plugs broke off.

I had a hell of a time getting the bits out, and had much the same issue as you, with the bolt feeling like it is bottoming out too soon.

At this stage, I have left it, but I will be removing the offending bolts, and introducing them to the angle grinder, to lose about 5mm.

Oh, and because hindsight is a wonderful thing, don't try to over tighten the bolts. They will snap off in the hole. :D

[IndusD4]

I take it you had to remove the plastic plugs, to install the roof rails. When I did mine, all bar 1 of the retaining plugs broke off.


I did say the driver side went ok but had one of the plastic retaining plugs snapped off on that side. I took a tiny drill bit to it and managed to get that out.

I'll probably do the same and take 5mm off the bolts, or get shorter ones as I need to get at least one replacement.

Ron

[kenl]

I would not be keen to use the extractor bit unless there is nothing poking out to grab hold of, for my part I would file a slight square edge on two sides and use a GOOD pair of vise grips to turn it out. Some heat would help but the risk is too high I think, unless you had a really heavy soldering iron you could place on the broken stud for a minute before removal so as to loosen the locktite.

I hate broken bolts, they always turn a 2 minute job into a 2 hour job...

[TuffRR]

I've never had much success with ezy-outs or other extractors. More often they not, they break as well and this just makes the problem worse. I would be inclined to pay someone to remove it given the location and the consequences of not getting it right.

[l00kin4]

Sounds to me that the bolt concerned was too long or there was some garbage in the bottom of the hole and that has prevented the bolt from going in to its full length.

Martin


I found when I installed the long rails that I needed to run a tap through the holes to get the bolts in cleanly - as Martin said there were a few 'dags' in some of the threads which stopped the bolts going all the way in.

I did actually turn the head off one too and had to drill it out - with quite some trepidation. Good luck.

David

[Grentarc]

I have had great success in the past using a dremel to cut a deep slot in the top of the bolt, sliding a thin piece of steel plate or a washer, and using a pair of vise grips or multi grips on the bolt/stud. the washer/plate gives excellent leverage through the centre of the stud, and stops slipping around the thread.

[BMKal]

Is it a steel bolt (as opposed to aluminium) ???

With the amount of thread still protruding, I'd be tempted to simply wind a nut onto it finger tight, then weld the centre of the bolt / nut together, and use a socket on the nut to wind the lot out of the hole. The heat that you would impart through welding will help free up the thread and allow it to come out easily enough, provided you attempt to remove it while still hot.

(Clamp your welding earth lead onto the outside of the nut and weld through the centre - a Mig would be best if you have access to one).

Make sure you disconnect your battery/s before attempting this though. ;)

[eddomak]

I have had great success in the past using a dremel to cut a deep slot in the top of the bolt, sliding a thin piece of steel plate or a washer, and using a pair of vise grips or multi grips on the bolt/stud. the washer/plate gives excellent leverage through the centre of the stud, and stops slipping around the thread.

I second this idea too! If you have one, using a Dremel with a metal cutting disc you can put a big flat head screwdriver in there. I have done this multiple times, with more success than Ezy-outs.

[IndusD4]

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. They are on the car now :)

As I tried vise grips first there wasn't much thread left to screw a nut to, then weld that on which probably would have been the easiest way. I bumped into a friend today with more tools in his shed than your average hardware store, we tried easy-outs first but the bolts were in too tight. We ended up drilling the bolt out, then put a tap through the thread to clean it out.

The reason for the bolts getting stuck in the thread is that there was rust in the holes. Seems water gets everywhere. I would recommend that if anyone fits these as an aftermarket item to run a tap through the thread first - for a size M6 bolt.

Ron