Top Radiator Hose Bleed Screw

[rapserv]

Have once again got an issue with the bleed screw moulded nut coming loose in the top radiator hose of the 2001 TD5. I replaced this hose a couple of years ago because of the same problem. I now have a small leakage problem (with the bleed screw that is :p ) and will have a go at trying to glue the nut back in place. Just wondering if anyone else has done this successfully, and, if so, how?
My intention is to clean around the rubber/nut as well as possible using contact cleaner then use some loctite super glue between the rubber/nut and finish of with a bit of JB Weld over and around the union. If anyone can suggest something better (other than another new top hose) I'm all ears. :)

[CU55TM Disco]

Had mine dislodge during a coolant changeout, ended up in the thermostat, spent hours locating it, **** idea.

Gonna look at silicon hoses from Roose Motorsport which don't have the bleed screw in them as an alternative.

[sierrafery]

I addapted one of these Cast Iron Radiator Steel Radiator Bleed Valve Screw Vent 1 8" Chrome Auto | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321883427047?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) into the top hose using loctite rubber to metal bonding adhesive, this kind Loctite ? 380 (http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802639052801&msdsLanguage=EN_AU&selectedTab=technical) it's been so for almost two years without probs

[rapserv]

Had mine dislodge during a coolant changeout, ended up in the thermostat, spent hours locating it, **** idea.

Gonna look at silicon hoses from Roose Motorsport which don't have the bleed screw in them as an alternative.

I changed all my intercooler line hoses over to silicon a couple of years ago but did not do the coolant side because I need to use the bleed screw fitting.

[rapserv]

I addapted one of these Cast Iron Radiator Steel Radiator Bleed Valve Screw Vent 1 8" Chrome Auto | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321883427047?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) into the top hose using loctite rubber to metal bonding adhesive, this kind Loctite ? 380 (http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802639052801&msdsLanguage=EN_AU&selectedTab=technical) it's been so for almost two years without probs

thanks sierrafery, sounds like Loctite 380 is the way to go.
neat bleed screw replacement in your link... don't have to completely remove the screw to bleed.:) unfortunately, I have an 'engine saver' sensor fitted in place of the original screw so I can't use one of these or use a replacement silicon hose as suggested above.:(

[ozscott]

Mate is the top hose a genuine one? Cheers

[Dhickm]

Have you thought about a brass replacement? searching for BMW unit is cheaper than Land Rover on EBay

[rapserv]

Mate is the top hose a genuine one? Cheers
I don't recall where I bought the hose but I vaguely remember there being a LR sticker on it initially.... why do you ask? :o

[ozscott]

Ok I have just not experienced the problem with my hoses and I have the engine saver screw in too. Cheers

[rapserv]

Have you thought about a brass replacement? searching for BMW unit is cheaper than Land Rover on EBay

hi Dhickm, are you referring to a BMW hose or brass bleed valve screw?
as I mentioned above, I need the bleed screw nut (moulded into the hose) to fit my 'engine saver' sensor.

[rapserv]

Ok I have just not experienced the problem with my hoses and I have the engine saver screw in too. Cheers
hopefully you wont have the same problem.... I think I may have nicked it up a little too tight :(

[ozscott]

Thanks mate. I have had it in for years. Cheers

[schuy1]

hopefully you wont have the same problem.... I think I may have nicked it up a little too tight :(


Use fingers only,thumb and middle finger is good. The screwdriver slot is for REMOVAL ONLY!
Cheers Scott

[rapserv]

Use fingers only,thumb and middle finger is good. The screwdriver slot is for REMOVAL ONLY!
Cheers Scott

I normally do, however, when I replaced the radiator a couple of days ago I did not fully screw the sensor into the bleed hole and did not notice until I was towing the van up the hills on the way out of Geraldton and the low water alarm came on. I pulled over straight away and found quite a lot of coolant sprayed all over the place under the bonnet, and because it was scalding hot I did not use my fingers and elected to use a pair of pliers. I did not use excessive force as I know it is fairly delicate, however it must have been a bit too much. I think that the fact that the whole area around bleed screw being so hot must soften the rubber somewhat and may have assisted in seperating the screw and embedded nut.:o

[schuy1]

Ah, yep, that will do it!

[d2dave]

I had mine fail on a weekend and as I needed the vehicle I had to do a temporary repair. I found a bolt with a very course thread.

Can't remember the size, but it was a whitworth/national coarse thread.

I cut it very short, drilled and tapped a hole to suit the bleed screw and then screwed the bolt into the hose, cutting a thread in the rubber.

The following Monday I ordered a new hose, but I had so much confidence in the repair that I left it. I do carry the new hose in the vehicle though.

This was two and a half years ago. However February just gone,
I noticed(whilst on holidays) that it was starting to leak. I noticed that it had lifted a little and when I tried to screw it back into the hose it would not tighten

I suspect that this is due to the rubber getting a bit softer with age.

Another temp repair that is still holding out. I screwed it back flush with the hose and then put a cable tie around the hose and over the top of the screw so it can't lift. I then stuck a heap of silicone around to seal it and let it dry.

This was about 5 weeks ago and there are no leaks.

I am very tempted to try this loctite metal to rubber, a product that until this thread I had not heard of

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/256.jpg

[sierrafery]

Just use that Loctite as in the instructions and have patience 24 hours to consolidate... i've used it in various soft/medium duty metal to rubber even metal to metal applications and it has never failed

[Road Stone]

Brass replacement is the way to go off e-bay. It was on of the first things you did on the 200/300TDi and probably should be the same on the TD5.


Proper Araldite is good in emergencies!


Cheers, Jerry

[d2dave]

Proper Araldite is good in emergencies!


Cheers, Jerry

I remember reading a thread about different methods for trying to stop oil in the injector harness. Someone suggested Araldite, but it was pointed out that it is not rated to the temperature that the engine gets to.

If this being the case, it would also be no good for a radiator hose.