"New" perentie miscellaneous questions

[Jonnooh]

Hi, just got my perentie delivered today and after having driven it I have a few questions:

It has had a keyed ignition installed, however the only way of turning it is with the key which is difficult - it is very tight. Are they meant to have 'wings' on the lock to help with this?

It will not start immediately, turning the key to start doesn't turn the motor over until after quite a few tries, even when hot. The ignition, brake light comes on and the 'throttle light (right hand light) comes on dimly when turned to start. I know with diesels you usually need to wait til a light goes out before trying to start, after the glow plugs have warmed up. From the wiring diagram I can't see anything to prevent it from starting. I am not sure what a stop/start motor is on the diagram but something certainly stops and starts when I turn the ignition on and off.

Is there an owners manual available for these things to tell me what all the lights mean?!

It leaks some oil from the front diff, transfer case but seems to be only a few drips. I appreciate that these cars are old. Would it be worthwhile getting it checked out?

Is there a good place in Adelaide to get land rover parts from? At present I only need the bottom steering shroud cove, and possibly rubber body seals etc.

Thanks everyone.

Jon

[Blknight.aus]

if the key is tight it may not have the lock mechanisim installed correctly.

assuming by not starting you mean its not cranking over.

if the key mech isnt in right the start switch in the ignition might not be making contact, if its not that it might be the aux start relay or the solenoid on the starter sticking.

the glow plugs are key activated and not on a timer you hold it in the mid position between on and start and an orange choke symbol should light up.

so long as it makes a winding noise when you goto the ignition on position and the same again when you turn the ignition off then the starting circuit is your problem.

[Jonnooh]

Yes, not cranking over. There only seems to be three positions (off/on/start) but I'll look into this tomorrow. Thanks Dave.
Jon

[Blknight.aus]

the glow plug position is not detented, its half way between on and start and your only indication you have hit the position is the light that looks a little like this

|/|

[juddy]

Hi, just got my perentie delivered today and after having driven it I have a few questions:

It has had a keyed ignition installed, however the only way of turning it is with the key which is difficult - it is very tight. Are they meant to have 'wings' on the lock to help with this?

It will not start immediately, turning the key to start doesn't turn the motor over until after quite a few tries, even when hot. The ignition, brake light comes on and the 'throttle light (right hand light) comes on dimly when turned to start. I know with diesels you usually need to wait til a light goes out before trying to start, after the glow plugs have warmed up. From the wiring diagram I can't see anything to prevent it from starting. I am not sure what a stop/start motor is on the diagram but something certainly stops and starts when I turn the ignition on and off.

Is there an owners manual available for these things to tell me what all the lights mean?!

It leaks some oil from the front diff, transfer case but seems to be only a few drips. I appreciate that these cars are old. Would it be worthwhile getting it checked out?

Is there a good place in Adelaide to get land rover parts from? At present I only need the bottom steering shroud cove, and possibly rubber body seals etc.

Thanks everyone.

Jon

Most people changed to a keyed barrel, that does not have the finger nut turner, as per the original one without key, it can be a pain in the arse trying to turn the key with the standard barrel set up. Fit the keyed finger turn barrel and you will have no issues after that, I done this on the RFSV and the 6x6 works very well.

[Jonnooh]

Yes, I will look into the keyed barrel with the wings, but apparently it means it can't be keyed the same as the doors....

[juddy]

Yes, I will look into the keyed barrel with the wings, but apparently it means it can't be keyed the same as the doors....

I think that may be the case.

[Blknight.aus]

Yes, I will look into the keyed barrel with the wings, but apparently it means it can't be keyed the same as the doors....

depends on how much you want to pay to get it done.

the series key barrels for the doors can be matched to the ignition barrel for the perentie that takes the key and has the wings. BUT IMHO...

deal with 2 seperate keys, keep the ignition key on a QD connection (preferably one of the rare earth magnet type ones so you can pop it easily) doing so prolongs the life of the ignition barrel, and lets face it with the vibes coming off a 4bd1 every component needs every advantage it can get to having a long life.

[Carzee]

Humans included. Once you factor in the gym session savings you make, it cuts the running costs a fair bit. Its a wonder they don't attract FB tax. :)

[Jonnooh]

Dave, what's a QD connection? Quick disconnect? Anyway, pulled the ignition switch out and looks like it was faulty, cleaned it up and put the original blank winged thing back in. I guess theres a lot of ways to do this, I was considering an immobiliser and doing away with an ignition key. In the meantime the dash toggle switches have seized up so will look into getting new...

Thanks
Jon

[Blknight.aus]

yep.

almost no point in fitting an imobbiliser...

I can have any perentie I want in under a minute with just an 8/10mm ratcheting ringy.

[Carzee]

I fitted a battery off switch.
I have OCD about this because of a fire many years ago. Especially older vehicles.
I also want to guard against accidentally flattening the battery, a 4BD1 is not going to be easy to start with low battery out in the scrub (another good reason to travel with friends and carry a good made-in-australia jumper leads, eg
Jumper Leads - sheasta (http://www.sheasta.com.au/jumper-leads.html) )

[Blknight.aus]

very very easy to start....

2/3 walking pace, first gear (or second low) and a minute with the spanner.

90% of the alternators will have enough residual in them to fire up at 1500 Rpm peg it and then turn the ignition on...

Done.


4 blokes can shove start one with it in gear on the flat from a standing start.

[Carzee]

Sounds easy. We'll have to get experience trying that at an event. Very cool.

[Carzee]

As for preventing or at least minimising electrical fire in these 25yrs+ vehicles, see Chris078's post (tonight), in this thread:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/233697-my91-ffr-fuse-behind-hour-meter.html

[Blknight.aus]

As for preventing or at least minimising electrical fire in these 25yrs+ vehicles, see Chris078's post (tonight), in this thread:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/233697-my91-ffr-fuse-behind-hour-meter.html

yeah, never happens in jeeps or toyoats or nissans or mitsis or any vehicle thats less than 5 years old :)

Of course then theres the argument about how inadequately rated master switches get hot, melt and catch fire themselves.

you could just goto air start :) and fit a generator in place of the alternator.

[slickrok]

I had similar starting problems when I got my Perentie.

Battery terminals were corroded so cleaned them up - helped for a while. The battery was old(ish) so bought a new one - worked a treat until my starter motor finally gave up. Replaced that and now starts first time every time. Will be good to see if it stays this way as the weather gets colder.


I did fit an immobiliser (thought it would be a good idea) but considering the doors and bonnet don't lock then it's a bit pointless. Would slow someone down but not for long. But i'm sure the flashing red LED puts some people off ;)

[slickrok]

Also you asked about Adelaide parts. I'm in Adelaide too.

I use either British 4x4 in Windsor Gardens or PCB in North Plymton.

Both very good. British 4x4 is easier for me as I'm in the north.

For the parts you're looking for (steering wheel shroud) I'd look online too. Most of my stuff I get from Landybitz. The heavy stuff (starter motor, replacement diff ) I got to PCB or British 4x4.

[Jonnooh]

Thanks all. I'm not sure that your average car thief would know how to start a diesel. I might try PCB as I live south..

Jon

[Carzee]

yeah, never happens in jeeps or toyoats or nissans or mitsis or any vehicle thats less than 5 years old :)

Of course then theres the argument about how inadequately rated master switches get hot, melt and catch fire themselves.

you could just goto air start :) and fit a generator in place of the alternator.

My experience was with TLC wagons which have a loom to the rear which, if it goes, goes bad along the inner roof down to the rear doors and tail lights from memory.

I stay away from SCA sort of batt switches and stick with the Cole-Hersee 175A continous (2484-A) type used by drag racing fraternity.

[Chris078]

As for preventing or at least minimising electrical fire in these 25yrs+ vehicles, see Chris078's post (tonight), in this thread:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/233697-my91-ffr-fuse-behind-hour-meter.html

yup. A job everyone should do is buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and pull all the fuses, clean out the contacts and replace with new fuses.

Also check if, like mine, they left the resistors in the wiring harness (they were supposed to be removed)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/233493-what-these.html

Not an issue if you don't leave the ignition in the 'ON' position as they only get hot when the battery light is illuminated. If, like me, you've wired up a secondary fuse box to run radio/fans etc that is triggered by a relay running off the ignition (so it's not always live) then it's a very big safety issue as they get too hot to touch after about 1 minute.

[Chris078]

Here are some useful things to download and print out.

full parts list - Repair Parts Schedule (RPS) -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/rps.html)
scroll down till you find the file: PUBR001 - Land Rover Perentie 4x4 Combined Parts Book V1.01
and download that.

(don't print this, but keep it handy to find part numbers)

this link Land Rover 4?4 | (http://afmsafety.com.au/safety/landrover4x4/)
from AFM
has the workshop manuals and service instructions. 3 workshop manuals (light, medium, heavy) and the service instruction, tech details and safety stuff.
you can take those to office works and for less than $80, get them printed and buy 3 binders and a box of plastic sleeves. Then just spend an hour putting them together.
(you're mechanic will love you)

this page Vehicle Wiring Diagrams - REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/wiring.html)

has the wiring charts (3 of them) These are definitely worth getting blown up to A2 or A1 size if you intend to work on the wiring.

<edited for better links>

[Jonnooh]

Thanks Chris. Yes, I've seen these but have yet to sort through them. The service summary is quite useful....

Jon

[BrabantDJ]

Hi All,

I am a relatively new Perentie owner and this is an old thread, so hopefully someone can help.

I took it off road for the first time on the weekend and loved it! See attached pics.

I ran into a problem when on the beach... the engine wouldn't start. I was about 1km from the entry/exit onto the beach, so stressing out a bit!

When I turn the ignition the dash lights would come on but I would only hear a tick. I tried several times over a few minutes and then it came back to life.

After some further trial and error, it seems that the engine will go to turn over when I try to start it in gear.

Any ideas on what might be happening here?

166149166150166151

[JDNSW]

Almost certainly an earthing issue, apparently one that is affected by having it in gear, or more likely with the clutch disengaged, as it would be presumably when starting in gear. This suggests it is affected by slight engine movement and points to the chassis/engine earth. I'm not sure where this is on the Perentie, but on my 110 of similar age with the Isuzu engine, it is a flat braided strap across the LH engine mount. I also ran a separate heavy earth strap between the gearbox and the chassis.

[Blknight.aus]

there is also an obscure fault that ties into reverse gear but if you get that one the vehicle will only start in an obscure combination and one of them is you need to have your foot on the brakes to start the engine. Stopping can be achieved with either your foot on the brake, reverse gear selected or the primary lights on.

If you're a new school driver from a vehicle that needs you to have your foot on the brake and clutch to start it, you may be inadvertently doing this when you try to start in gear.

if so and IIRC its a fault in one of the multi connectors from the ign relay