Td5 injector seals

[d2dave]

I am about to do my injector seals. Is there any consensus on genuine v non genuine seals?

[bsperka]

Genuine and replace the bolts as well. Even though I paid someone else to do it, the cost of parts isn't that big.

[fellipe]

Do you know the part number for these bolts?

[d2dave]

Why do I need to change the bolts?
I have just finished reading the procedure in RAVE and there is no mention of renewing the bolts.

[sierrafery]

IMO it's about the 6 rocker shaft bolts, these are recommended to be renewed once removed exactly like the head bolts... and that's stated in the manual
.....
3. Fit rocker shaft ensuring it is located on dowel.
4. Fit and progressively tighten new rocker shaft
bolts to 33 Nm (24 lbf.ft).
.....

[steve_a]

Also check your torque wrench to see if it does the setting for the injector bolts and the rocker bolts.

I have 2 and it was in between them... don't tell anyone but I went to the 28nm on the lower and then a bit further to what I estimated to be right. Keep it quiet, I reused the bolts too. I read the replace bit, but none of these are high stress values...

I reckon a good quality O ring, whether genuine or not, is the go. But the difference between genuine and non is about $10 or something... so why bother.
Ditto copper sealing washers, not a lot of difference.

Do you have the actual LR tool to pull the injectors? I did buy one and it made it very easy to do the job and no leaks or issues afterwards.
If you are doing it without, be careful, this is the same kind of 'feature' as the 4JX1 in the Jackaroo, a damaged injector sleeve could make your year miserable.
I can post a bunch of pictures of the real tool if you need so you can figure out how to make a stand in. The basic part is a slide hammer, but it basically holds onto the flats of the injectors and naturally sits perpendicular to the head face. Note that the injectors head face is about 10 degrees off vertical in the engine.

[d2dave]

IMO it's about the 6 rocker shaft bolts, these are recommended to be renewed once removed exactly like the head bolts... and that's stated in the manual


I didn't read that bit. I only read the section on just removing the injectors.

[d2dave]

Also check your torque wrench to see if it does the setting for the injector bolts and the rocker bolts.



Do you have the actual LR tool to pull the injectors? I did buy one and it made it very easy to do the job and no leaks or issues afterwards.
If you are doing it without, be careful, this is the same kind of 'feature' as the 4JX1 in the Jackaroo, a damaged injector sleeve could make your year miserable.
I can post a bunch of pictures of the real tool if you need so you can figure out how to make a stand in. The basic part is a slide hammer, but it basically holds onto the flats of the injectors and naturally sits perpendicular to the head face. Note that the injectors head face is about 10 degrees off vertical in the engine.

Thanks Steve. Pic not needed though as this arrived in yesterdays mail.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/234.jpg

As for the tension wrench. I never use one for this type of job. I just do the bolts up tight.

[strangy]

I wouldn't be concerned about the bolts.
They are not torqued to yield like head bolts and will be fine to re use.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Go The Genuine, they do cost more but don't tend to leak like the aftermarket ones. If you examine a Genuine one against an aftermarket one closely the stamp out of the after market ones are inferior.
Cheers, Mario

[d2dave]

Thanks Mario. Hearing this from someone who sells these, definitely reinforces the use genuine only.

[robbotd5]

D2Dave
Can I ask where you got the removal tool and how much?
Regards
Robbo

[d2dave]

Robbo.
I got it from here.

Land Rover Spares, Land Rover Parts, Landrover Parts, Landrover Spares (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/)

Here is the link to the page.

Engine Tools - Part2 Page 2 (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=tool%20injector%20td5&PN=Engine_Tools2-p2.html#aLRT_2d12_2d154_2d1)

It cost 93.26 pound.
Freight to Vic 27.06 pound.

Which cost me a total of Au$230

[peter51]

Could you please post more pictures - E.G a view of how the tool engages with the injector.
I think a slide hammer with the standard 2 or 3 puller fingers might do the job - or is there some special design feature on the tool. I can't tell from the picture you posted
Thanks
Peter

[d2dave]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/191.jpg

Looking at the pictures it looks like there is limited space around the injector to be able to use a universal puller.

[steve_a]

They must have had a run on them, I ordered through Dingocroft too.

There is limited space, you need to rotate the crank to get clearance as you go. You might get two straight legged pullers on the injector flats, however you'd probably want to ensure you are pulling in line, that whole encasement means that the tool aligns along the injector and you pull straight.

Might be better seeing if anyone local has one, even posting to and back I reckon you'd be about $60 in after one use.