jumping out of high range

[mattmac]

Been getting this annoying/occasional "jumping out of high-range" issue- no problems with any of the other gears.Hopefully it's a simple fix? It's actually a bit dangerous if it happens when pulling out onto a main road and pops out.

[Bearman]

Been getting this annoying/occasional "jumping out of high-range" issue- no problems with any of the other gears.Hopefully it's a simple fix? It's actually a bit dangerous if it happens when pulling out onto a main road and pops out.

Hi Matt, Lots of issues of this happening. Can be as simple as the insulation under the trannie tunnel interfering with the hi/lo lever linkages, to adjustment of the selector forks or wear on the engaging dogs on the gear itself. Another issue that's starting to manifest itself is incorrect torqueing of the intermediate shaft bolt. I have seen 3 in the last 6 months that have a loose bolt - finger tight only. The bolt should be torqued to 125ft/lb. One owner even told me that the land rover service centre told him that it should be finger tight only!!!! Shows how much some of them know.:(This causes the gears to float or tilt and wears out the engaging dogs and the bearings can rotate and wear out the end cap on the shaft. Make sure this bolt is torqued correctly.! If the bolt is ok I would suggest firstly getting under the vehicle and looking at the linkages on the passenger side and ensuring nothing is touching the linkages, also under the rubber boot for the gearsticks there is a foam cushion - make sure that the lever doesn't contact this when hi or lo is selected, if it is cut a piece out of the foam. If all good there you will have to lift the top cover off the drivers side top of the transfer case and with the transfer in neutral, check the gap behind the rear fork of the hi/lo selector and the selector gear ( the middle one). It should be in the range of .005" to 010" . You can adjust this by undoing the 1/2" bolt on the selector finger. While you are in there have a look at the engaging dogs on the hi and lo gears for wear. If they are bad you will need to replace the gear Hi gear and possibly the selector gear as well.

[mattmac]

Hi Brian- thanks for info/advice-will try check it out in the next few days.

[Chris078]

I had this for a bit. Turns out I just was getting the crusher washers engaged properly.

find a flat piece of ground. put transfer box in neutral. give it a small rev to make sure things settle.

put clutch pedal to floor, put gearbox into first and transfer box in high range.
Now the important part.
whilst keeping pressure on the high/low lever, gently engage the clutch to get the car rolling; keep pressure on the high/low lever.
once you're rolling, use about 3/4 throttle (still hold that high/low lever) and let the revs build almost to the redline.
Only release the pressure on the high/low lever when you need to change to second.

I have found using this method - pretty much the same as they recommend except keeping the pressure on the lever and revving it right out - the 9 times out of 10 it will not pop out of High. If it does, I just do it again and make sure I rev it right out. Never had to do it more than twice.

[Chris078]

Hi Matt, Lots of issues of this happening. Can be as simple as the insulation under the trannie tunnel interfering with the hi/lo lever linkages, to adjustment of the selector forks or wear on the engaging dogs on the gear itself. Another issue that's starting to manifest itself is incorrect torqueing of the intermediate shaft bolt. I have seen 3 in the last 6 months that have a loose bolt - finger tight only. The bolt should be torqued to 125ft/lb. .

for future reference, where is this bolt located?
testing - just put a torque wrench on it or is there something more complicated that than?

certainly agree about checking the insulation. that piece of foam just sits there on top of the box, nothing to hold it in place.
The linkages are pretty exposed as well. If they get muddy it could stop them from moving fully.

[Bearman]

for future reference, where is this bolt located?
testing - just put a torque wrench on it or is there something more complicated that than?

certainly agree about checking the insulation. that piece of foam just sits there on top of the box, nothing to hold it in place.
The linkages are pretty exposed as well. If they get muddy it could stop them from moving fully.

Have a look on the rear of the transfer case Chris. You will see a large bolt with a lock retainer on it roughly in the centre of the rear (near where the speedo cable goes into the output housing). Take the retainer off and check it with a torque wrench.

[BadCo.]

I had this happen a few months ago, three times in one weekend. By the third time I got ****ed off and attacked the foam under the gearstick boot with a knife.

Never had the problem since.

[mattmac]

Hi Brian, i assume this is the bolt you're talking about? Does it need to be in neutral/gear before torqueing?
Have a look on the rear of the transfer case Chris. You will see a large bolt with a lock retainer on it roughly in the centre of the rear (near where the speedo cable goes into the output housing). Take the retainer off and check it with a torque wrench.

[Bearman]

That's the one Matt. Doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.

[Chris078]

How does that lock retainer work?

[Bearman]

How does that lock retainer work?

Just to stop the bolt from loosening Chris.

[rathgar]

Hi Brian, i assume this is the bolt you're talking about? Does it need to be in neutral/gear before torqueing?

Is that bolt actually seating in the retainer? Or has it been torqued up on top of the retainer?

[Bearman]

It's a locking tab, the bolt is torqued up and then the lock tab/retainer goes over the head of the bolt and is bolted down itself. That way the bolt cannot undo!

[rathgar]

It's a locking tab, the bolt is torqued up and then the lock tab/retainer goes over the head of the bolt and is bolted down itself. That way the bolt cannot undo!

Yes I understand what the retainer is supposed to do. If you look at the photo the flats of the bolt dont line up with the hole in the retainer. It looks like the retainer has been put on first and then the bolt torqued up. Therefore the retainer is not doing its job.

[Bearman]

Yes I understand what the retainer is supposed to do. If you look at the photo the flats of the bolt dont line up with the hole in the retainer. It looks like the retainer has been put on first and then the bolt torqued up. Therefore the retainer is not doing its job.

You must be looking at a different photo to me. It looks normal to me. The retainer is like a 12 point socket and is sitting over the head of the bolt.

[rathgar]

You must be looking at a different photo to me. It looks normal to me. The retainer is like a 12 point socket and is sitting over the head of the bolt.

Didn't realise it was 12 point. Now it looks good!

[Bearman]

Didn't realise it was 12 point. Now it looks good!

I will post up a pic of a retainer tomorrow so you can see it a bit clearer.

[Chris078]

Didn't realise it was 12 point. Now it looks good!

I had the same impression as you originally. That photo is a bit tricky!

[BadCo.]

It got me too haha

[Bearman]

This should make it a bit clearer to understand. It locks on the bolt points not on the flats.