Series 1 SWB

[JamesM]

A few newbie/dumb questions about my series 1 SWB.
1. It's very noisy (whining sound) in reverse and a mechanic has reassured me that this is to be expected because it has straight cut gears. Seems awfully noisy to me, so I wonder if this is anything to worry about?
2. When I got it the handbrake was stuck and I've heard this might be due to oil leaking from the box. I'll make sure the oil level is OK and see if the seal is leaking but might be posting further on this if it's dodgy.
3. The steering box is shot so will need to be repaired. Is there anyone recommended to repair this, or should I look for a replacement (where?)
4. The generator isn't charging so I plan to put an alternator in rather than repairing it, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Other than that it's a great little machine and I'm looking forward to trundling around the hills in it!
Cheers
James

[incisor]

there is a mob in england that do replacement screws and nuts for 80" steering boxes (or you can slightly mod it and fit a series ii swb box i believe)

i used a generic bosch alternator and had the pulley machined so it lined up

there is a mob in england that do an alternator in a generator case. don't recall their names, sorry

best of british with it....

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Steering Services
Unit 1A, Chapel Lane
Westcott, Dorking, Surrey
RH4 3PJ
UK

New phone number is UK +44 1306 640483

They will do Burman worm and nut boxes used on 48 to 55 models but they required the box and column shipped to the UK for overhaul. You should give them a call because they don't do internet.

80 inch steering columns are shorter than the later s1 steering columns.

From memory the trick in the UK for 80" was to use a LHD SIII box turned upside-down, but LHD boxes are rare as in Australia.

[JDNSW]

1. Noisy reverse. Yes, straight cut gears on first, reverse, and low range will be noisy. If the noise is uniform, probably nothing to worry about, but if reverse is a lot noisier than first, it could indicate a worn bush on the reverse idler, but even in this case it will probably run for a long time making a lot of noise.

2. Handbrake may have been stuck either due to oil leaking from the transfer case, or due to the expander being seized. At the least, I would pull the drum off and look at the situation.

3. Others have pretty much covered the steering box.

4. Repairing the generator will be simpler than fitting an alternator, and has the advantage of keeping originality. But there is no doubt that from a practical use point of view, the alternator is better. Up to you.

John

[russellrovers]

A few newbie/dumb questions about my series 1 SWB.
1. It's very noisy (whining sound) in reverse and a mechanic has reassured me that this is to be expected because it has straight cut gears. Seems awfully noisy to me, so I wonder if this is anything to worry about?
2. When I got it the handbrake was stuck and I've heard this might be due to oil leaking from the box. I'll make sure the oil level is OK and see if the seal is leaking but might be posting further on this if it's dodgy.
3. The steering box is shot so will need to be repaired. Is there anyone recommended to repair this, or should I look for a replacement (where?)
4. The generator isn't charging so I plan to put an alternator in rather than repairing it, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Other than that it's a great little machine and I'm looking forward to trundling around the hills in it!
Cheers
James hi james keep original i will check my 80 inch steering boxes for you regards jim

[Dark61]

Have we seen a picture of it yet James? we like pictures.
cheers,
D

[gromit]

I think most of your questions have been answered but....

Is the Series I an 80" or 86" (or 88" )?

What exactly is wrong with the steering box ?

As John suggested, repairing a dynamo can sometimes be a fairly simple job. Replace a bush, re-machine the commutator & replace brushes.
Is it the dynamo, the regulator box or a wiring issue though ?

Handbrake drum can be removed from underneath and slid over the propshaft. You'll need a Whitworth spanner (5/16" from memory) to remove the nuts holding the drum, slacken off the adjuster, remove the drum and see what horrors lurk inside....

Best of luck,

Colin

[russellrovers]

A few newbie/dumb questions about my series 1 SWB.
1. It's very noisy (whining sound) in reverse and a mechanic has reassured me that this is to be expected because it has straight cut gears. Seems awfully noisy to me, so I wonder if this is anything to worry about?
2. When I got it the handbrake was stuck and I've heard this might be due to oil leaking from the box. I'll make sure the oil level is OK and see if the seal is leaking but might be posting further on this if it's dodgy.
3. The steering box is shot so will need to be repaired. Is there anyone recommended to repair this, or should I look for a replacement (where?)
4. The generator isn't charging so I plan to put an alternator in rather than repairing it, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Other than that it's a great little machine and I'm looking forward to trundling around the hills in it!
Cheers
Jameshi checked steering boxs one cast iron box left jim

[JamesM]

Thanks for the very helpful info. It's an 80" and the steering is so slack that there seemed close to 180 degrees of free play, so driving on the freeway had me looking as if I was having some sort of convulsion (according to the missus). I'll have a closer look at the brake - so far I've just slackened it off. I'll also get the regulator and wiring checked to see exactly what's wrong with the charging, so lots to do! I'll be driving it on road as well as around the hills so am putting indicators on - it won't look 100% original but will be safer. Think I also might need to put seat belts on to carry little grandkids? Have also replaced the exhaust.
I don't think photos really do the cute little thing justice. It's something I remember from my childhood at uncle ("Big") Anthony's farm (a very long time ago). "Little Anthony" called it the "Oggin" when he was aroung 3 years old, for reasons that are unclear, so this one will get the same title.
I think there's a few pics attached...
James

[Tomo]

That looks in great condition!!!
I wish mine looked like that!
Have you just purchased it?

[Tomo]

I would love to see more pics in out in the open......

[Aaron IIA]

That is a nice '50. It deserves to keep it's original generator and regulator. These are date stamped and compliment the vehicle.

Aaron

[digger]

Looking like that you need to keep it as original as you possibly can

Yeah looks excellent I'm very jealous

[1950landy]

What is the chassis number , if it is a 1950 it has the wrong front guards & motor :confused: but still a nice looking S1,:cool:

[russellrovers]

[QUOTE=JamesM;2516285]Thanks for the very helpful info. It's an 80" and the steering is so slack that there seemed close to 180 degrees of free play, so driving on the freeway had me looking as if I was having some sort of convulsion (according to the missus). I'll have a closer look at the brake - so far I've just slackened it off. I'll also get the regulator and wiring checked to see exactly what's wrong with the charging, so lots to do! I'll be driving it on road as well as around the hills so am putting indicators on - it won't look 100% original but will be safer. Think I also might need to put seat belts on to carry little grandkids? Have also replaced the exhaust.
I don't think photos really do the cute little thing justice. It's something I remember from my childhood at uncle ("Big") Anthony's farm (a very long time ago). "Little Anthony" called it the "Oggin" when he was aroung 3 years old, for reasons that are unclear, so this one will get the same title.
I think the hi james i would not be too concerned on in correct engine the number should start 061-------------- can source ji

[russellrovers]

[QUOTE=JamesM;2516285]Thanks for the very helpful info. It's an 80" and the steering is so slack that there seemed close to 180 degrees of free play, so driving on the freeway had me looking as if I was having some sort of convulsion (according to the missus). I'll have a closer look at the brake - so far I've just slackened it off. I'll also get the regulator and wiring checked to see exactly what's wrong with the charging, so lots to do! I'll be driving it on road as well as around the hills so am putting indicators on - it won't look 100% original but will be safer. Think I also might need to put seat belts on to carry little grandkids? Have also replaced the exhaust.
I don't think photos really do the cute little thing justice. It's something I remember from my childhood at uncle ("Big") Anthony's farm (a very long time ago). "Little Anthony" called it the "Oggin" when he was aroung 3 years old, for reasons that are unclear, so this one will get the same title.
I think the hi james i would not be too concerned on in correct engine the number should start 061-------------- can source ji ps the guards are from a 53 jim

[Dark61]

Thanks for posting the pictures.
Nice looking thing. Well done.
cheers,
D

[JamesM]

Chassis no R06105... and Engine 06105... (last 3 numbers aren't the same)
At present it's is in mechanics yard but will post better pics when I get it home.
Not sure what ji means Jim?
Cheers
James

[russellrovers]

Chassis no R06105... and Engine 06105... (last 3 numbers aren't the same)
At present it's is in mechanics yard but will post better pics when I get it home.
Not sure what ji means Jim?
Cheers
James for got the m your engine is original the engine i have is 06113583

[1950landy]

must have a 2L side plate fitted to the motor . Should have an aluminium filler tube with alum cap on a 1595cc motor, that's what made me think it was incorrect motor. Jim is correct on the guards.

[Reddirtbandit]

Usually just the regulator,

the generator is usually only a problem is bearing/bush, or the brushes,

The starters get issue with poling

If you change the bush,s in the steering box makes big improvement, also turn the nut around while its out, you can get the thread sprayed not sure how well it lasts

Will have mine out in few weeks,

[JamesM]

Some progress: have delivered a heap of stuff to the mechanic (brake drums, shoes, water pump, gaskets, bushes, steering box, hoses, etc). Now all he has to do is put it all in... probably should have done it myself but I'm too busy trying to fix a Saladin (good excuse, anyway!). Will keep all the stuff replaced and hopefully at least some of it will be fixable or useful for spares. The drums were oversize but not sure that they are u/s - think there's a fair bit of latitude but couldn't be bothered arguing the toss. He hasn't got around to checking the regulator but did suggest that this was probably all that is wrong. Time will tell!
Thanks to all involved. James

[Defender Mike]

Is that the Series 1 from up near Dubbo way. Its still advertised for sale on a few sites.
Mike:)

[JamesM]

Hi Mike
No, not from anywhere around there, so it must be another one.
Cheers James

[Defender Mike]

Hi James
I checked that add out again & it certainly looks like your vehicle advertised in Bodengora NSW. So i sent an email a few days ago. This morning i got one of those dodgy Nigerian scam letters back telling me it was still for sale but he is traveling to the UK in A few days &'it must be sold urgently!.
Land Rover Series 1 1950 80 Rare Rare Very C FOR SALE from Bodangora New South Wales @ Adpost.com Classifieds > Australia > #16301 Land Rover Series 1 1950 80 Rare Rare Very C FOR SALE from Bodangora New South Wales ,free,australian,classified ad,cla (http://www.adpost.com/au/vehicles/16301/)
Thats the add above.
Heres the email
Hello,

I still have the Land Rover 88 Series for sale and I am ready to let it go. The car is in perfect condition, no mechanical problems, no leaks, no rust, everything is in very good order. Rego is clean and clear, no accidents. I have to sell this car as fast as I can because in two weeks I will be deployed in United Kingdom and I'll stay there for awhile, that's why I'm selling it so cheap. Currently I'm in a military base and the car is here with me.I will appreciate if you let me know your decision as soon as possible, I must sell the car in the next two weeks, before my deployment.
Let me know if you're interested so I can send you more photos and work out the details. I'm responsible for shipping, delivery and handling to your location in any city of Australia.Of course you can choose not to buy the car if you do not like it. If is not as presented, would be within your rights to refuse the deal.
Thank you
Sean Clifton
Just goes to show you have to be careful these scammers are into everything these days.
Mike:o

[JamesM]

Holy Hell!
I bought mine sight-unseen off the web, and even the phone calls I made wouldn't have protected me if it was a scammer. Thank goodness it wasn't, but this really is food for thought. We should make sure that we actually view the item before parting with any money.
Thanks!
James

[67hardtop]

Maybe a suggestion would be to ask a member on here for help to look at it and get "proof of existance". if ur unable to view the said purchase due to distance or other limitations. Im sure u wouldnt be the first to ask or the last to do so.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Defender Mike]

This guy is still trying sent me another email today with 6 photos including one showing the red vent on the air cleaner. I reported the scam to the feds on line. Scam Report.
Mike:)

[JamesM]

Got a water pump but need a thermostat housing, thermostat and inlet manifold. Mine is horribly corroded and, to my surprise, hollow - would've thought there'd be an actual thermostat in it somewhere.

(Tried to insert pic here but failed - it should be below I think)


The mechanic also managed to break off the horn button while he was removing the steering wheel (to replace the steering box). Not sure if I need to replace the whole housing (or God forbid the whole wheel)

Otherwise pretty much sorted but he recommended getting new points and ignition cables. Found some at seriesone shop but they look a bit different - mine have knobs and flat washers on the dizzy ends and different plug connectors.

The main thing that's stopping progress is the thermostat stuff, so I'd be really grateful for any pointers as to where I could try?

The other thing is that with the pump off I can see an awful lot of rusty muck inside the block. Will a high pressure hose do or is there a better way to clean it out?

Cheers
James

[Aaron IIA]

The mechanic also managed to break off the horn button while he was removing the steering wheel (to replace the steering box). Not sure if I need to replace the whole housing (or God forbid the whole wheel)

Cheers
James

Did the mechanic not not know that the horn button and steering wheel centre is released from the bottom of the steering box? They are made from a substance similiar to unobtainium. I once aquired an entire Land Rover because it had a good steering wheel centre. The steering wheel will be much cheaper and easier to find.

Aaron

[jerryd]

Hi James
I checked that add out again & it certainly looks like your vehicle advertised in Bodengora NSW. So i sent an email a few days ago. This morning i got one of those dodgy Nigerian scam letters back telling me it was still for sale but he is traveling to the UK in A few days &'it must be sold urgently!.
Land Rover Series 1 1950 80 Rare Rare Very C FOR SALE from Bodangora New South Wales @ Adpost.com Classifieds > Australia > #16301 Land Rover Series 1 1950 80 Rare Rare Very C FOR SALE from Bodangora New South Wales ,free,australian,classified ad,cla (http://www.adpost.com/au/vehicles/16301/)
Thats the add above.
Heres the email
Hello,

I still have the Land Rover 88 Series for sale and I am ready to let it go. The car is in perfect condition, no mechanical problems, no leaks, no rust, everything is in very good order. Rego is clean and clear, no accidents. I have to sell this car as fast as I can because in two weeks I will be deployed in United Kingdom and I'll stay there for awhile, that's why I'm selling it so cheap. Currently I'm in a military base and the car is here with me.I will appreciate if you let me know your decision as soon as possible, I must sell the car in the next two weeks, before my deployment.
Let me know if you're interested so I can send you more photos and work out the details. I'm responsible for shipping, delivery and handling to your location in any city of Australia.Of course you can choose not to buy the car if you do not like it. If is not as presented, would be within your rights to refuse the deal.
Thank you
Sean Clifton
Just goes to show you have to be careful these scammers are into everything these days.
Mike:o

:D:D The very same Sean Clifton just tried to sell me a $40k MGA for $12k

The original owner of the car was not amused !!

[groucho]

There is a alloy thermostat housing on eBay at the moment. UK I think not cheap but new....

[JamesM]

Found a second hand thermostat housing that shows pitting where the other one rotted out. Decided to spray it with high temp exhaust enamel after cleaning. I think that will stop it corroding further in that spot (well I hope so, anyway!). Been threatened with banishment from the kitchen but the paint needed baking in the oven to cure it, so what else could I do? Got a new thermostat but the one in it looks as if it probably still works so I'll keep that for a backup. Also repaired the horn button and surround and steering wheel - will post pics of that later.
Cheers James

[Dark61]

I washed through an old oil bath air filter and stuck that in the oven to thoroughly dry it. The resulting smell took me back 40 years to the metal shop at school. Lovely. The Mrs didn't quite see it that way though and I have to admit , there was a distinct tang to the oven fries for the next few days.
cheers,
D

[Graz]

Got a water pump but need a thermostat housing, thermostat and inlet manifold. Mine is horribly corroded and, to my surprise, hollow - would've thought there'd be an actual thermostat in it somewhere.

(Tried to insert pic here but failed - it should be below I think)


The mechanic also managed to break off the horn button while he was removing the steering wheel (to replace the steering box). Not sure if I need to replace the whole housing (or God forbid the whole wheel)

Otherwise pretty much sorted but he recommended getting new points and ignition cables. Found some at seriesone shop but they look a bit different - mine have knobs and flat washers on the dizzy ends and different plug connectors.

The main thing that's stopping progress is the thermostat stuff, so I'd be really grateful for any pointers as to where I could try?

The other thing is that with the pump off I can see an awful lot of rusty muck inside the block. Will a high pressure hose do or is there a better way to clean it out?

Cheers
James

I think someone here in the west was casting S1 thermostat housings. I think it was LandyAndy that mentioned it.

Cheers

Graham

[Dark61]

Was it Chazza?
Cheers,
D

[JamesM]

It was/is. That was my Plan B.

[JamesM]

Fixing the steering wheel isn't hard so this might be boring, but might help someone and it's quite therapeutic. A new wheel from UK was silly money.
Cut out the rot and cracks with a dremel cutting bit, down to the the underlying metal, with a bit of an outer bevel to help as a key for the putty. Ground the rusty bits (dremel again). Then washed (washing detergent followed by a bit of acetone - not sure that's needed). Then packed in POR 15 putty, trying to make sure that there were no air pockets. Then sanded, sprayed with an adhesion coat then primer; more sanding then black enamel, with aluminium paint for the hub, and job's done! Time will tell how it lasts.

[JamesM]

And the horn button and surround that was broken by an "expert" taking off the wheel! You can get new buttons from the UK which are threaded for a bolt (for a price) but mine was busted off with a hollow stub. So the dremel cutting bit was used to cut a slot down the "shaft" then at 90 degrees at the base. Then ground a bolt down to leave a "key" so the bolt could be slid down the shaft and then turned to lock it in. Then superglue to stop it coming undone - took a couple of days for that to cure (hanging upside down to make sure it stayed vertical).

[JamesM]

Last one! The button surround was also cracked so fibreglassed the back (out of sight). Then adhesion spray, primer, sanding and enamel. Putting it all back together isn't hard but photos help remind which wire goes where.

[JamesM]

Everything pretty much fixed now - just the windscreen motor to sort out. Pulled it apart and cleaned it. Only problem was the switch, which just had to be bent a little to make contact. Problem is, it works perfectly running off a battery off the car but doesn't work when put back on. Very little voltage on the -ve (active) lead so need to hunt around and find what bit of the wiring is dodgy. Generator is fine - was just the regulator.
Put indicators on for RWC - not "authentic" but easily removed later if I change my mind (not likely).
Replacement steering column needs to be painted (currently blue) but don't plan to repaint the body - I like the "weathered" look! Promised some photos outdoors so here they are (minus doors and roof that are in the shed). Last one was after driving down the valley to see if I could bog it - went beautifully but needed a hose down.
Thanks for everyone's help with my questions. Much appreciated.
Cheers, James

[JamesM]

I'm back with another dumb question.
Got the Oggin registered (club plates) but don't see where to fix the plates. Have looked at lots of pics and the front plate seems to be on right mudguard, left mudguard, grill or bumper bar. Think the back one goes on the tail gate tho not so many rear views.
I can drill holes easily enough but just wonder if there is a "correct" spot to put the plates? Apologies is this query is totally naff!
James

[Dinty]

NSW Historic plates are much smaller than Victorian, my front is mounted on the grille, the rear is mounted on the right side under the brake/taillight cheers Dennis:)

[1950landy]

Queenslands old special interest plates were square & could be mounted on the front guard & under the D lamp, but the new ones are the same size as a std no plate . The front just fits on the front guard but the rear are at least 50mm too long to fit under the D lamp & it ilegal to cut them down. From what I can see the only plate PPQ have that fits on the rear is around 2,500
dollars, a bit much for this little black duck. Have mounted on one side of tailgate without a no plate light at the moment.

[JamesM]

Thanks guys.
Figured they just go where they can. Vic plates are same as standard rego so the rear fits on the back tail gate and put the front on the grill, off-set a bit to not block airflow to radiator too much - might change to central later if it doesn't look right. Now off to the supermarket!
Cheers
James

[gromit]

Remember that the rear one needs illumination.

The UK plates were square and fitted under the taillight, there was a clear section in the light to illuminate the plate.
Some Australian ones have a plate carrier that fits to the central rib as below (Series III). Not sure when these were first used.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/424.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3197_zpsb22926ef.jpg.html)

I fitted one to my Series I in the same place you've chosen. Made a backplate that also hold the light and pivots so that you can run with the tailboard open & still (sort of) see the rego plate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/425.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%201%20with%20Welder/DSCF4239.jpg.html)


Colin

[JDNSW]

The one you show from a Series 3 was fitted to my 86", and remained the same to the end of S3 production. Not sure they were fitted to 80" though.

John

[67hardtop]

Gee theres a lot happening on the back of that s1 Colin. Cool.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[JDNSW]

Colin's Series 1 is absolutely fascinating! The back is the least of it! John

[QRS40]

Queenslands old special interest plates were square & could be mounted on the front guard & under the D lamp, but the new ones are the same size as a std no plate . The front just fits on the front guard but the rear are at least 50mm too long to fit under the D lamp & it ilegal to cut them down. From what I can see the only plate PPQ have that fits on the rear is around 2,500
dollars, a bit much for this little black duck. Have mounted on one side of tailgate without a no plate light at the moment.





For regular rego, PPQ's '2x2 flexi' ($1095) should fit on the side of the rear tray, under the light- 134mm x 291mm (vs regular plate size 134mm x 372mm)


This wont help anyone outside Qld though...

[Dinty]

I like what I can see in the background of your images JamesM, ? yours or a private collection cheers Dennis

[1950landy]

For regular rego, PPQ's '2x2 flexi' ($1095) should fit on the side of the rear tray, under the light- 134mm x 291mm (vs regular plate size 134mm x 372mm)


This wont help anyone outside Qld though...

Thanks but still too expensive . Don't know why they couldn't have stuck with the original sq plates.

[grazza53]

PPQ also have new American size plates which are 291 x 134. Not sure if they will fit the rear and they are available in very limited combinations. Start at $469.00 depending on what you want.

[JamesM]

Sorry Dinty. Didn't see your post re the junk in the background.
Totally off topic but I'm doing the worlds slowest restoration of a Saladin and have a few other old bits of UK stuff - Centurion, Ferret, Saracen, Bofors. Not sure what brain snap got me going on all that but it's fun in the shed if the weather is good.
If you're interested in seeing how an old man who should have more sense wastes his time... there's a web site HMVF.co.uk scroll to 'Blogs of Restorations' then scroll through that list to Ozzie Saladin for a laugh!
Oggin still going well
Cheers
James

[Don 130]

Sorry Dinty. Didn't see your post re the junk in the background.
Totally off topic but I'm doing the worlds slowest restoration of a Saladin and have a few other old bits of UK stuff - Centurion, Ferret, Saracen, Bofors. Not sure what brain snap got me going on all that but it's fun in the shed if the weather is good.
If you're interested in seeing how an old man who should have more sense wastes his time... there's a web site HMVF.co.uk scroll to 'Blogs of Restorations' then scroll through that list to Ozzie Saladin for a laugh!
Oggin still going well
Cheers
James
James, I just had a look through your blog over at HMVF. You're doing fine work, and documenting it all as you have is of great value to many. keep it up.
Don.

[JamesM]

Fired up the barbie and discovered that the tarp on top of it is the canvas for the Ogg'n! Had long given up trying to remember where I put it. Anyway, I know Landies are simple machines that anyone can fix, but putting the hood on is doing my head in, and it obviously needs some attention.
I have two tubular hoops that fit front and back of the rear tub, with another hoop bracketed on rods that join the other hoops together. However there are also brackets on the sides of the windscreen, so I gather I need to make a couple of rods to join the hoops at the back to the windscreen?

134220

There are also two long straps at the back and another two at the front and I have no idea what to do with those.
There are a couple of brackets on the top of the windscreen (possibly "shark's teeth, looking at other posts on the subject) and I assume the front long straps are supposed to hook onto those somehow?

134221

There are no tears in the canvas and the right side looks OK, although it dips over the front seats since there's no support there yet.

134222

However it's actually pretty tatty, with frayed or missing beading and a few broken straps. Could probably do with a wash as well.

134223

134224

I'd like to fix the beading and straps and a few fraying bits of stitching but wonder if there's someone (preferably around Melbourne) that does that sort of thing for a reasonable price. Might be cheaper to get a new hood but I'd prefer to restore this one. Would also really appreciate advice on how to actually fit the hood on properly!

Cheers and Happy New Year to All
James

[JamesM]

On fiddling with the hood I discovered a couple of brackets that I hadn't noticed before (not that they aren't obvious!). The lower one I'm guessing is for rear vision mirrors, and if that is correct I'd be grateful for pointers to get brackets and mirrors for both sides. I suppose I could make brackets if all else fails. The top brackets have two threaded holes and I've no idea what they're for..?

134225

134226
Cheers
James

[JDNSW]

I think you are correct - the bottom ones are for mirrors (later models went to mirrors on top of the mudguard, but with bulkhead sidelights, this is not useful.

The upper bracket is, I believe, a mouting point for the optional trafficators.

[Tins]

I'd like to fix the beading and straps and a few fraying bits of stitching but wonder if there's someone (preferably around Melbourne) that does that sort of thing for a reasonable price.
Cheers and Happy New Year to All
James

Find someone who repairs horse blankets. There used to be someone in Upper Fern Tree Gully. Not sure if they're still there.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

On fiddling with the hood I discovered a couple of brackets that I hadn't noticed before (not that they aren't obvious!). The lower one I'm guessing is for rear vision mirrors, and if that is correct I'd be grateful for pointers to get brackets and mirrors for both sides. I suppose I could make brackets if all else fails. The top brackets have two threaded holes and I've no idea what they're for..?

134225

134226
Cheers
JamesIts a bit difficult to see, but the attached image is a British Army 80 inch during the Korean War which shows the trafficator assemblies fitted to the screen (the little black boxes). They were very vulnerable to damage and weren't a common fitting to 80 inch Landies in Australia.

134251

The above image is sourced from the AWM with barcode: HOL146851 dated September 1951

Note, you can also see the mirror fitted to the windscreen brackets.

[JamesM]

Thanks for the help. I have a much better idea of what goes where now.
The trafficators look cute but won't bother with them.
The rear straps just connect to the back of the tub and the front straps do connect to the "shark's teeth" brackets on the top of the windscreen,
I'm not sure what the hook for the front "shark's teeth" bracket looks like and if anyone knows where to get them that would be great. Otherwise I'll bodge up a fitting somehow.
Also, an idea of where I could get the mirrors and brackets from would help. Suspect I'll have to get them from UK but maybe they're the same as one of the later models?
Cheers
James

[1950landy]

134366 Trafficators mounted on blocks on W/S Frame .134367 Guard mirrors & arms mounted on W/S Frame brackets . I have been looking for 30 years for correct arms to mount here. They are like hens teeth. 134368 This is the way Exmore Trim attach the tilt to the lugs on the frame 134369 And the way they attach the strap to the inner lug.
The bags in the tilt is to stop the birds nesting in my garage pooing on the tilt:(

[JamesM]

Thanks for that. Very useful.
I've decided at this stage to use the clips on dog leads to hook the straps to the windscreen brackets, until I can get the proper ones, and the pics give me a very good idea of what I need for the mirrors.
Thanks again.

[1950landy]

134393 This is what the hook looks like , I think you would get it from some one who works with canvas Or do tent repairs. Your dog lead clip may be too thick & rub a hole in the tilt. [bigsad]

The mirrors I used are readily available on Ebay & can be bought with longer arms if needed. I also used some motor bike mirrors I found at a swap meet for many years .

[B.S.F.]

Most, if not all mirror arms, part no. 262658 sold today and advertised as 'fits L/R 48-84' have got 3/8" threads.
You have to enlarge the hole (or fit an extra bracket) on your windscreen frame to fit them.
48-53 windscreen mounted mirrors need a 5/16" thread . The part no for a 48-53 mirror arm is 262679.
.W.

[JamesM]

Thanks for all the info.
Have ordered mirrors and arms - they didn't specify shaft size so might need to enlarge the holes. Found a canvas repair place that will give me a quote on fixing the tarp when they get back from holidays... Hopefully they'll have suitable hooks for the front straps, otherwise I might bodge something up (think you're probably right re the dog lead clip idea).

[gromit]

The hooks seem to be called a J-Hook.

Found a few suppliers is Australia plus one in India but you probably have to buy a container load !

Not quite the exact profile but similar 25mm Double J Hook - JustStraps2go (http://www.juststraps2go.com.au/25mm-double-j-hook/)

This one is in stainless so might be expensive but correct profile.......worth a phonecall http://www.prorig.com.au/stainless-steel-j-hook-shade-sail-prorig-S326

Stainless ones here also https://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=15&ved=0ahUKEwjAgYLe9sbYAhUFnZQKHcv7BcsQFghtMA4&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sewingtradeequipment.com.au%2 Fpdf%2Fcatalogue.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1CPP6SAE8zccla1tniv2ur

Colin

[JamesM]

Hi All
Resurrecting an ancient thread but I'm looking for a tail light lens for the Oggin (Series one Landy). It fell off and my plan B is to get longer routing bolts with a couple of washers, but obviously new lenses would be better. They are Hella, 100mm dial with 2 mounting holes. If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd be most grateful. (Other than that the Oggin is alive and well!)

[B.S.F.]

I believe the Hella part number is 2375. Good luck.W.

[5380]

Thanks for the very helpful info. It's an 80" and the steering is so slack that there seemed close to 180 degrees of free play, so driving on the freeway had me looking as if I was having some sort of convulsion (according to the missus). I'll have a closer look at the brake - so far I've just slackened it off. I'll also get the regulator and wiring checked to see exactly what's wrong with the charging, so lots to do! I'll be driving it on road as well as around the hills so am putting indicators on - it won't look 100% original but will be safer. Think I also might need to put seat belts on to carry little grandkids? Have also replaced the exhaust.
I don't think photos really do the cute little thing justice. It's something I remember from my childhood at uncle ("Big") Anthony's farm (a very long time ago). "Little Anthony" called it the "Oggin" when he was aroung 3 years old, for reasons that are unclear, so this one will get the same title.
I think there's a few pics attached...
James

James,

A nice tidy little truck! Try to keep it as original as possible!!!!
If you are going to put indicators on it, don't drill any holes in your nice front wings (mudguards) or rear panels. You can modify the original Lucas L489 parking lamps as follows: Get onto Auto Electrical Supplies in the UK etc. and buy a pair of Lucas L488 dual contact (stop/tail lamp) bulb holders and 2 x L488 rubber bodies and 2 x 12V LED soft white 5W park/21W amber 15mm (BAY15D base) indicator bulbs - (Classic Car LEDS UK). Scrounge up a couple of scrap L489 bulb holder/bodies and remove the 9mm central tube from the mounting plate. Fit the L489 plate inside the L488 bulb holder flange and use it to locate the L489 lens rim. Use some nice sharp scissors to neatly trim the the outer rubber lip off the L488 rubber bodies (the L489 chrome rim fits neatly inside the L488 inner rubber lip). I know this sounds complicated, but once you lay it out on the bench, it gets easier. At the rear use some flush mount indicators on a flat bracket mounted to your outer lifting handle bolts. Using LED bulbs will require an electronic flasher relay.
Be very wary of your 70 year old wiring! The insulation around the wires is disintergrating creating a real fire risk .A new wiring harness is cheap insurance agaist a burnt out wreck. Most 80s have a central trafficator switch mounting bracket at the bottom centre of the windscreen frame if you don't want to fit a modern stalk on your column.
Good luck 5380

[JamesM]

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the advice and pointers. James