2A light and ignition switch

[crispy]

I have a 63 2a. Rats have eaten a bit of the wiring behind the dash and there was no ignition switch. Ive bought a new switch but i think my model had the bakelight type switch like a series one. Have looked at different pictures and the later series 2A have small light switch separate to the ignition. Any idea what mine should have. The hole in the dash is to big for the switch that I bought.

[crispy]

Chassie and engine numbers 24305903b 25167031F

[JDNSW]

The ignition/light switch was replaced by separate ignition and toggle light switch after chassis number suffix 'C'. So yours is the earlier setup, and yes, it is the same as Series 1 (although there were a couple of variants).

John

[crispy]

When I turn the key in some position the lights do come on. Will have to try and get the other bit of the switch.

[JDNSW]

Can I suggest you get a parts manual? Perhaps the easiest is to get a "Rave CD' from the AULRO shop.

John

[russellrovers]

I have a 63 2a. Rats have eaten a bit of the wiring behind the dash and there was no ignition switch. Ive bought a new switch but i think my model had the bakelight type switch like a series one. Have looked at different pictures and the later series 2A have small light switch separate to the ignition. Any idea what mine should have. The hole in the dash is to big for the switch that I bought.hi send me photos of what you have and i will see what i have jim

[Pezwa83]

On a similar line of questioning, How can I get a key cut/ pick the ignition barrel?

There were no keys when I bought it, so can't find out if it will turn over. - No crank handle either. :(

Any help is much appreciated.

[JDNSW]

Mostly the key number is on the barrel. If it is, go to a competent locksmith, who will cut you a key. (One that has been in business a long time will be likely to have the right blank in stock).

If there is no number, remove the switch and take it to the locksmith.

(Neither will probably be real cheap)

John

[Pezwa83]

Any tips on how to remove the barrel? or do you mean just remove the whole switch/barrel assy from the panel?

[S3ute]

Hello from Brisbane.

If the barrel has a number it will more than likely be a Union key - take that number to a competent locksmith and get a key cut.

If there is no number it is probably easiest to take the whole switch.

I took a door lock assembly and had a set of door keys cut for about $9 at my neighbourhood locksmith. Forget Mr Minit etc just find someone who understands older car keys.

Cheers,

[JDNSW]

Hello from Brisbane.

If the barrel has a number it will more than likely be a Union key - take that number to a competent locksmith and get a key cut.

If there is no number it is probably easiest to take the whole switch.

I took a door lock assembly and had a set of door keys cut for about $9 at my neighbourhood locksmith. Forget Mr Minit etc just find someone who understands older car keys.

Cheers,

I'm surprised it was that cheap (I recently got a couple of filing cabinet keys cut by number), but you are spot on about "Forget Mr Minit etc" - you need a proper locksmith, preferably one that's been around since these keys were commonplace. I found that I was unable to get similar duplicates cut for a 1986 Landrover at a locksmith because they did not have the blanks.

John

[S3ute]

Hello again.

I am pretty sure that was the price for the two keys - maybe a couple of dollars more.


The truck is a 75 model and the particular locksmith had plenty of appropriate blanks - cut them straightaway and they worked fine.

I also has some filing cabinet keys cut to a set of numbers and they did cost about $50.

Cheers,

[chaybra]

Land Rover Parts - BARREL+KEY - IGNITION - L/ROVER 2A+3+DEF (PETROL)(does not include switch R551508) (http://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/4728)

new barrel and key