View Full Version : Horn beeps when locking
Mowy
22nd April 2016, 12:35 AM
Just in the last day my horn decides to beep when locking the car. Didnt previously do this and not sure why. All doors are shut as are windows and bonnet. Any tricks ?
sierrafery
22nd April 2016, 05:37 AM
One of the door switches or bonnet switch or wiring to them is the problem, first unplug the bonnet switch and try so, if it stops there it is, if you still get the misslock with unplugged bonnet switch leave the driver's window open lock with key and open the door through the window, if the alarm goes off the problem is in one of the other 3 doors or tail door cos these are all together on the same input to BCU so you'll have to make measurements with multimeter to see which one is closed circuit, if the alarm doesnt go out this way the problem is at the driver's door
keep the fob in hand to disarm the alarm if it goes off, you have to lock with key to not trigger the volumetric alarm when you reach to the interior handle, the switches are part of the actuators and they all must be open with closed doors, when a door is opened the switch closes to earth so as long as the BCU gets an earth input from one of the switches it triggers the alarm/misslock warning if you see what i mean
Outback 1
22nd April 2016, 06:50 AM
Check the switch mount under the bonnet it may be bent over and if so the switch will not contact the bonnet correctly
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Mowy
22nd April 2016, 02:19 PM
One of the door switches or bonnet switch or wiring to them is the problem, first unplug the bonnet switch and try so, if it stops there it is, if you still get the misslock with unplugged bonnet switch leave the driver's window open lock with key and open the door through the window, if the alarm goes off the problem is in one of the other 3 doors or tail door cos these are all together on the same input to BCU so you'll have to make measurements with multimeter to see which one is closed circuit, if the alarm doesnt go out this way the problem is at the driver's door
keep the fob in hand to disarm the alarm if it goes off, you have to lock with key to not trigger the volumetric alarm when you reach to the interior handle, the switches are part of the actuators and they all must be open with closed doors, when a door is opened the switch closes to earth so as long as the BCU gets an earth input from one of the switches it triggers the alarm/misslock warning if you see what i mean
Alright the problem is now down too one of the three doors or the boot. What is the best way to go about testing for a circuit. In other words where should I be sticking the multimeter exactly I have a feeling it's the passenger door or lhr as I had a sticky situation in some salt water the other day on that side. Could it be a simple case of a wire out or a corodded wire ?
sierrafery
22nd April 2016, 03:32 PM
It's not about wire out or corroded cos then it should be open circuit to earth and no misslock, in your case on one of those switch circuits it's a closed to earth input to BCU(they are all joined) the simplest but a bit laborious is to remove the door cards one by one and unplug each actuator at a time, close doors then lock with fob... when you dont get the misslock after unplugging one there it is the problem(maybe you are lucky to find it from first attempt)...if the misslock will persist with all disconnected then it's a short to earth somewhere and we'll speak then cos it becomes complicated
Mowy
22nd April 2016, 09:34 PM
It's not about wire out or corroded cos then it should be open circuit to earth and no misslock, in your case on one of those switch circuits it's a closed to earth input to BCU(they are all joined) the simplest but a bit laborious is to remove the door cards one by one and unplug each actuator at a time, close doors then lock with fob... when you dont get the misslock after unplugging one there it is the problem(maybe you are lucky to find it from first attempt)...if the misslock will persist with all disconnected then it's a short to earth somewhere and we'll speak then cos it becomes complicated
So is it the actuator that would cause the miss lock in the end of the day or is there an easier fix. Im still a little bit confused.
sierrafery
22nd April 2016, 09:59 PM
It's or the actuator(the door switch is part of it) or a wiring issue as the BCU gets an earth input on the port which is for the passengers and tail door surveillance(re-read all my statements cos IMO it should be relevant enough)
Mowy
22nd April 2016, 11:03 PM
It's or the actuator(the door switch is part of it) or a wiring issue as the BCU gets an earth input on the port which is for the passengers and tail door surveillance(re-read all my statements cos IMO it should be relevant enough)
I will have a look tomorrow a little loud right now for the neighbors.. I know my driver door actuator is buggered as it doesn't unlock I actually have one being shipped to me as we speak so was planning an install soon. But now this problem has occurred.
I will try unplug the actuators left side first as I feel it potentially may be caused by some ocean water on the left hand side of the car. Is there just a direct switch to pull the actuator out or do I have to do the full uninstall (torx screwdrivers) ect..
The water may of shorted something as well but will run the tests. (possibly in those 3 holes at the base of the passenger door)
Mowy
22nd April 2016, 11:13 PM
I read elsewhere that potentially there is a sequence of which unlocking and locking through a mixture of the fob and door lock the mislock can be revesed?Can anyone confirm this ?
Eevo
22nd April 2016, 11:23 PM
Just in the last day my horn decides to beep when locking the car.
your car is just saying goodbye and that it loves you and is going to miss you.
Slunnie
22nd April 2016, 11:41 PM
I had this problem temporarily also.
If you have or can access a Nanocom, it will tell you which door is reading as open. It can differentiate between doors.
sierrafery
22nd April 2016, 11:58 PM
I will have a look tomorrow a little loud right now for the neighbors.. I know my driver door actuator is buggered as it doesn't unlock I actually have one being shipped to me as we speak so was planning an install soon. But now this problem has occurred.
I will try unplug the actuators left side first as I feel it potentially may be caused by some ocean water on the left hand side of the car. Is there just a direct switch to pull the actuator out or do I have to do the full uninstall (torx screwdrivers) ect..
The water may of shorted something as well but will run the tests. (possibly in those 3 holes at the base of the passenger door)
You don't have to remove anything just unplug the electric connector, first of all inspect on each door where the loom enters the door cos it used to get chaffed there and short to earth is possible there too... the misslock warning can be disabled only with tester, any other "trick" is boll*x IMO
If you have or can access a Nanocom, it will tell you which door is reading as open. It can differentiate between doors.
i have serious doubts that any tester can recognise which door is open other than the driver's or the rest all together as long as the input for all the other doors is common on a single pin to BCU cos the switches are all in parallel connection
Input/Output
The input from the door latch switches to the BCU is either zero volts or an open circuit. Zero volts indicates the door
is open. An open circuit indicates that the door is closed. When the BCU sees an open circuit, it pulls the input high
internally.
The driver's door latch switch has a dedicated signal input to the BCU. This allows the BCU to identify the driver's
door position.
The BCU use a common signal input for the remaining door latch switches.
TestBook provides the ability to monitor the real time state of the door latch switches. Remember that the driver's
door is always in a known state. The remaining doors are combined into a single state. The BCU cannot distinguish
the state of the individual doors, other than the driver's door.
Slunnie
23rd April 2016, 02:02 AM
My apologies you are correct. I just had a quick check on the Disco2. The Nanocom just registers Passengers door, Drivers door and bonnet.
northiam
23rd April 2016, 11:01 AM
The door lock switch activate the interior lights and other locking/alarm and door closing events. See if the interior lights work and dim with all doors including tailgate:)
DiscoMick
23rd April 2016, 11:01 AM
I notice the interior lights are not coming on when I open the rear door of the 110, but they come on when the other doors are opened. Could that be related or a separate issue, I wonder?
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Mowy
23rd April 2016, 11:23 AM
The door lock switch activate the interior lights and other locking/alarm and door closing events. See if the interior lights work and dim with all doors including tailgate:)
It was interesting the entire drive lastnight the interior light was on and even pushing the button it would not shut off. Then eventually after I parked up two hours later when I got back to me car it was off.
Mowy
23rd April 2016, 11:38 AM
UPDATE: LH passenger door first try and got results ! Unplugged the actuator and locked and no beep this is positive I suppose. I inspected the wiring and it seems like it's in pretty good condition and that no water has made it that far into the door. Am I looking at a replacement actuator for that side or should I test with a multimeter one of the circuits. If so how should I go about this.
Mowy
23rd April 2016, 12:02 PM
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sierrafery
24th April 2016, 04:35 AM
if no misslock with that latch unplugged replace it...simple as that;) but if you want to check measure resistance across the purple/white and black wires cos there's where the closed circuit to ground should be which triggers the misslock... if you are confident that nobody forces that door to steel something and the latch closes well you can simply just cut the purple/white wire anmd that's it.... just that particular door will be uncovered by the alarm
Mowy
24th April 2016, 10:24 PM
if no misslock with that latch unplugged replace it...simple as that;) but if you want to check measure resistance across the purple/white and black wires cos there's where the closed circuit to ground should be which triggers the misslock... if you are confident that nobody forces that door to steel something and the latch closes well you can simply just cut the purple/white wire anmd that's it.... just that particular door will be uncovered by the alarm
So just to confirm I should replace my lhf door latch actuator and that should do the trick ?
sierrafery
24th April 2016, 10:58 PM
So just to confirm I should replace my lhf door latch actuator and that should do the trick ?
Yes
schuy1
24th April 2016, 10:59 PM
If that is the 1 that you disconnected and no misslock beep happened then yes, replace it. It is the latch that plays up. It may pay to check the others too though, ie replug that 1 and then test the others just to be sure.
cheers Scott
sierrafery
24th April 2016, 11:02 PM
If that is the 1 that you disconnected and no misslock beep happened then yes, replace it. It is the latch that plays up. It may pay to check the others too though, ie replug that 1 and then test the others just to be sure.
cheers Scott
With that one replugged the misslock will come back so nothing else is testable on that common circuit
DiscoMick
25th April 2016, 08:24 AM
I'm no sparky so this may be a dumb question, but if a wire was broken could that be causing the problem, not the actuator? I ask because this happened to my driver's side rear door. The actuator was replaced and it still didn't lock. Turned out to be the wire in the grommet in the door having been crushed. Lot cheaper to fix a wire than to replace an actuator. Just a thought.
Mowy
25th April 2016, 12:06 PM
I'm no sparky so this may be a dumb question, but if a wire was broken could that be causing the problem, not the actuator? I ask because this happened to my driver's side rear door. The actuator was replaced and it still didn't lock. Turned out to be the wire in the grommet in the door having been crushed. Lot cheaper to fix a wire than to replace an actuator. Just a thought.
It's a fair point hence why I'm asking for confirmation ! Just going to have to bite the bullet rather than go to an auto electrician. I'm inspected the wires and they seem in pretty good knick so I'm going to just go for it.
DiscoMick
26th April 2016, 12:25 PM
It's a fair point hence why I'm asking for confirmation ! Just going to have to bite the bullet rather than go to an auto electrician. I'm inspected the wires and they seem in pretty good knick so I'm going to just go for it.
Fair enough. Think I'm going to a sparky next week to get three issues, including this one, sorted on the Defender and the camper trailer all in one go.
schuy1
26th April 2016, 10:11 PM
With that one replugged the misslock will come back so nothing else is testable on that common circuit
OK, Did not understand that they are on a common circuit.
Mowy
9th May 2016, 12:34 AM
UPDATE: Today I successfully finished a double door lock actuator install and could not be happier.
The door frame was a little stubborn and the power windows but in the end it is all in working order. The key learnings I can take for both the driver door and passenger door are as follows.
1. Be patient when removing the actuator itself as it is very challenging to get out and place back in.
2. Lift the door frame higher than the inner brace on the door it helps you slide the actuator straight in
3. Don't do the latch side t40 torx bolt up too tight as it can create too much friction with the electronic Windows.
The guide I used I printed out from
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-changing-the-door-lock-actuators.156079/
Lastly I would like to thank everyone who helped allong the way as it all started with my mislock diagnosis. Special mention goes to sierrafery you are a wizard.
sierrafery
9th May 2016, 12:47 AM
Wellcome and well done, i'm glad it's sorted:cool:
Outback 1
9th May 2016, 11:24 AM
3. Don't do the latch side t40 torx bolt up too tight as it can create too much friction with the electronic Windows.
Make sure you have the correct one in here as it is shorter than the others so that you can tighten it properly
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DiscoMick
9th May 2016, 12:56 PM
My horn problem is also fixed. It turned out to be the switch under the bonnet in front of the driver, which was faulty. When the bonnet is lowered it presses the switch down and tells the ECU the bonnet is closed, as part of the locking system. As soon as it was disconnected the tooting stopped. Had a new switch fitted for $109. All good now.
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