Newbie needs a Classic

[iluvbrownale]

Hi all,

At risk of eliciting groans by asking the same stuff as every other newbie, here goes...

I want, no need, no want, a Classic. It'll do a 40km round trip 5 times a week, country roads. I really need something that is on the market now.

I am talking to a seller who has sold a few RR's and currently has a mint 4 door mid 80's blue one for $25k on gumtree. I am after the 95 Classic with about 220km on the clock. Looks good, negative is price which seems fair at $12k, and it's in Sydney( I'm Tassie spa. Flight,1100km drive, boat). I was going to get Graeme Cooper to do an inspection and buy based on that.

There is a local car. Bloke is a retiree and battling a bit so maintenance may have slipped but he's had it 12 years. Has towed a boat. Drove beautifully and the gears shifted like silk. Needs new muffler and a bonnet respray. Air suspension is lowered and raised by way of a manual pair of valves under the bonnet (seemed to do the job). 1993, terry towelling interior, Rock Hard dash.
$5k, 220kms also

Option 3, the Sherwood I'm sure you all have seen on carsales. Soft dash money for a hard dash. High kms is off putting, even if it's condition over Kay's.

Finally, if anyone here wants to sell, I'm ready to go!!

Would love some feedback on which way to fall.

Cheers

Mike

[superquag]

WHY exactly do you want/need/desire a CLASSIC ? Correct me if I'm wrong, but all of those you've listed are the shrt, 'standard' 100" wheelbase.
Knowing what I know now, the only Classic worth buying would be an LSE, the 108" version. Those extra 8" make a world of a difference, not only for the back-seat passengers, (Human or Corgi...) but the ride/handling on the open road is superior. (to my - 100" - Vogue SE)

The shrter Classic is very agile when off-road, but you've indicated that this isn't top of your list...

Yes, the Classic has a certain 'look' that no other RR equals, but to be frank, unless you want to sit and gaze adoringly at a parked car.... keep in mind that you will spend more time driving it... so "how" it drives (ride, handling, feel, co$t etc) is far more important than it's unique silhouette.

If you are going to have an AIR suspended Classic, then do it properly... repair.re-furbish/replace the system... which may not be cheap, or economically sensible. The Satisfaction-quotient is ...priceless.

Or you could put it onto springs and eliminate a recurring overhaul expense...

Either way, for highway commuting the Classic prefers Pirelli or Michelin tyres, or similar. - Going 'fashionably' too w i d e is usually problematical.

Have you seriously thought about a well-sorted P38 ?
- I've been advised by a dealer/workshop to... "NEVER test-drive one..... because you'll buy it..." They're also air-suspended, newer and better engines, less thirsty, more power... the Classic's 3.9 is relatively 'delicate' regarding overheating....and IMHO, too thirsty for the.... "power" it reluctantly produces.

Welcome to our Insanity... Because you ARE going to buy one... eventually... :)

James in Gosnells (WA)

The Lady Sarah, '95 Classic Softdash Vogue SE with working Air Suspension and Cruise-Control...

[Grumbles]

Superquad is on the money with his recommendation of an LSE and I will add to it by saying don't buy a modded example. Factory original with a solid maintenance history is essential for any RR model. These LSEs' are a bit rare but occasionally a good one turns up for sale.

Air suspended Rangies are great drives but be aware we are talking about cars which at best are now over 20 years old so there will be some wear on components. There are plenty of RRs for sale and it is a buyers market so don't rush in. Buy with your head and not your heart.

I'd be wary of any RR which towed a boat. The back end may have had repeated dunkings in salt water and not be in good shape.

As for buying a P38. I wouldn't touch one until the supply of transmission Viscous Couplings is re-established by some one taking on the task of building them because Landrover have ceased making them. The VCs' are a critical component of the drive train and failure will likely see the car off the road due to lack of parts supply.

Good luck in your hunt mate.:D

[iluvbrownale]

Thanks for feedback. My problem, of many, is I need a car this week or next. I've just sold my F30 BMW 328i and am looking for something different.
If an LSE was available now, I'd take it. I'm prepared to suffer for my fashion so the SWB is still okay for me. I thoroughly enjoyed having a VW Transporter van and took that for drives over some of my other 'better cars' - handling isn't a biggie as I enjoy getting to grips (pun intended) with any vehicles unique characteristics.
The boat tower one is clean as a whistle underneath which made me feel better but the owner is somewhat tricky to deal with. The history file is about two shoeboxes of receipts.
Might post a 'wanted' to see if any members are looking to offload.

[gavinwibrow]

Try this. $9K negotiable but in Perth. Make it worth my while and I'll drive it to Melb for you :angel:
Range Rover Classic LSE 1994 Soft Dash | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Perth City - Northbridge | 1110288361 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/northbridge/cars-vans-utes/range-rover-classic-lse-1994-soft-dash/1110288361)

[superquag]

.. and on your way through South Australia you could drop in and pick up a tD5 / transmission... and our newbie can entertain himself by installing it ! :eek::twisted::eek:
At least it's on (non-leaking...) SPRINGS.

Oh, and don't forget an LT 230 transfer case... to replace the BW abomination which, it seems, is now extinct... Ashcroft are'nt advertising VC units anymore... From memory, they were around $800

[Rextheute]

I'll throw my 2c in ......
Really wanted a series 11 Land Rover , a bit expensive ( in my opinion ) for a sorted one .
Looked at RR classics as the shape is timeless , but again pricey for a good one .

Ended up with a p38 , everything still works , comfortable and capable - I've done approx 10,000 kms in 12 months .

For the small investment - it's a ripper .

I have have 5 other cars ranging from 50 yrs old to 5 this is prob my favourite - we use it for touring , towing our camper and taking our pushys to the scrub .
Will be doing a short loop into the SA deserts in July .

So I'm about to do the cooling system , less than $500 plus labour should see it right .

Still want a series 11 , but this is far better to use every day .

Good luck with your search !!

[superquag]

The best value P38 was the one over here some years ago.. left on a freeway Breakdown Lane with a sign saying 'FREE' - and a phone number. Owner had had enough... unending problems etc.
Turned out to be genuine.... saw it there but wasn't allowed to pursue it. But someone else from here did....

Jolly Good Luck to them. :D:D:D

Dunno if you can retrofit an LT 230 to them, so you would be safer with an older, 'pre-BorgWarner' Classic model.:eek:

[iluvbrownale]

Well chaps, I went for the local one today. The price was too enticing. Had a friend who is a red hot mechanic check it out and there's nothing wrong with it. New brakes, new brand name tyres, everything works (except the air suspension which is manual). Saved me a big trip to the mainland too.

So....

If every you've driven at night in Tasmania you will know it's like a zoo. And the headlights on these things are pretty weak. I've seen two credible options. One is a crystal glass replacement which is still halogen (and gives a near original look), the other is the Truck Lite Phase 7 units which are a bit more aftermarket looking. What's the consensus? The left field is to get a grille with the driving light cut outs and install something in there (what size?).

The other stuff on the list is : repaint bonnet, redo the headlining (who'd have thought), install a new 'radio' with Bluetooth, upgrade the speakers and source a couple of vents for the dash (eBay or is there a local supplier people use?)

Cheers, pics to come

[Rextheute]

The crystal will be an improvement - and bigger / higher wattage bulbs . Have done this on my old Valiant and it works well .

Are the truck lite ones the led version ?
They are rippers but pricey .

And Goodonya for jumping in to the LandRover land .

[Rick1970]

Mine has Narva 7" H4 inserts, Tungsram (spelling???) 80/100 globes and upgraded wiring/relays. Lights are quite good.


Low voltage at the globe is the big light output killer.....

[Lockee]

As others have said upgrade headlight loom and a quality insert. I run the britax X-ray polycarbonate inserts with Good globes 55/60.

Have some Led lights like the truck litres coming to try

[PLR]

G`day ,

higher wattage globes and relays or just relays nothing wrong with the normal reflectors .

They have what i consider good lights and if you think not i`d suggest something may be wrong , check how many volts your getting at the globes .

Relays are also good for longevity of the high/low switch .

[superquag]

Amen and Amen to building in RELAYS to the headlights... both beams. The dipper switch is otherwise a consumable item... like the HVAC fan speed switch is... only worse.

I would suggest TRAXIDE who does (still ?) a nice big relay and KIT, - for neatness... or roll your own as I did...in which case we won't look in my engine room or discuss 'wiring standards'.:angel: You can pick up cheap BOSCH or HELLA relays at a wrecker. Use quality terminals, not the usual servo-station rubbish, and you can incorporate wiring for future spotties at the same time.

Buying the kit is easier if you're not confident.

When you buy 'Plus 250%' globes or whatever figure you can afford... bear in mind that the higher the advertised % the shorter is the life.
Steer clear (sorry, pun slipped out..) of blue/dark blue "Daylight" dyed globes for a couple of reasons...

One, they merely subtract some/most-of the 'red' end of the spectrum, so the BALANCE -obviously- shifts toward 'blue-ishness'...and the light appears more 'Day-lighty'.... You are NOT emitting ALL the light the filament generates..

The other reason is... a less 'blue' light does not over-illuminate the 'grey' of the road surface. And it picks up more detail in the leaves.

Think of how the black-top appears during the DAY light...It's darker than the foliage on either side.
But, with 'DAYlight / BLUE, ( 150Watt Flammenwerfers) this is reversed...the road is now brighter than the bushes... making it harder to spot brown or dark fur lurking therein, which also... because of the 'blue' colour balance, is less contrasty..as is the greenery...which now is more 'flat'.

You need Contrast to see the Critters, more than you need to wear sunnies at night.. :cool:

By all means add lightbars and Searchlights to come one with High beam. Just don't blind yourself with Low beam that is so bright that the tar melts...

Lastly, spend a bit of time and effort in aligning your new lights... and remember... the human eye responds on a non-linear, logarithmic scale, so wiping off that light film of dirt/dust will DOUBLE the light output.

[superquag]

G`day ,

higher wattage globes and relays or just relays nothing wrong with the normal reflectors .

They have what I consider good lights and if you think not i`d suggest something may be wrong , check how many volts your getting at the globes .

MUST be the same - digital meter - as the battery terminals...

Relays are also good for longevity of the high/low switch .

I'd second both. Yes, the 'shape' of the high beam takes a bit of getting used to...as it puts the light only where it will benefit... not filling in "everything" else for Effect.

A suggestion is... remove the reflectors, and if ok, use a microfibre cloth and poke it INside, use a chopstick or wood rod to wriggle it around to wipe the 'film' on the glass inside surface/reflector surface.

Fit the Kit, new globes (BRAND name...) clean the glass, add some wide angle driving lights of LED bar...and be happy

Do anything... but don't fit HID 'evilbay' retrofit kits... Save your money for fuel and fixing...

[Rick1970]

Agree the std reflectors are prob quite good, if in decent shape. Mine were very dull and tarnished, hence replaced them. Globe voltage with std wiring and 55/60 globe failed to reach 11.5v with car running. 13.5v+ makes a huge difference.

[iluvbrownale]

Reflectors poor, so plumped with the clear glass jobbies from powerful.co.uk
The bulbs are about 3000k I think, so no fully sick mayte blue tint ;)
Will put some relays on too - thanks for the tip!

Let's move on to another question seeing as we're on a roll....

The chrome strips down the side in the rubbers - where do you get these? I assume they are fixed in with adhesive and can be prised out? I know you can buy rolls of the stuff on eBay - what's the best course of action here?

A weeks worth of rain here in Tassie and I'm desperate to get into some body resto!