Fitting a PTO winch to a Perentie

[Dervish]

I have recently finished amassing the parts required to fit a PTO winch to 48-010. Since there's nothing really out there on the subject I thought I'd create a thread covering the process. It may come in handy for someone; for everyone else at least there'll be interesting pictures to look at.

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First step is to trim the grille surround panel to fit the winch. As it happens I have a few Perenties with winches around to use as a template.

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The horizontal cut is ~27mm from the base of the grille cutout. This horizontal cut meets with a radius at either end to meet the vertical bulge at either side. The curve is a radius of about 60mm. Where this radius meets the bulge, the panel is cut horizontally. None of the measurements are exact as none of the Perenties I had to reference were the same, all of the cuts had been made by hand and some were quite poorly executed.

Next the crank handle hole has to be ground flat from the rear, as a reinforcing bar will have to be installed across the now weakened panel. That will be the next instalment.

The finished (for now) article will look something like this.

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Until next time!

[Dervish]

Today's job was reinforcing the grille surround. I used 20 x 20 x 1.5 mm aluminium L-channel, not exactly the same as JRA used but close enough. The channel is cut to the same length as the distance between the bulges.

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The reinforcement is riveted to the grille surround. Mark out a centre line through the 27mm section of the panel. Then mark out and centre punch the centre, then either side at 15mm from the bulges. Evenly space the remaining marks for rivets. As always when riveting, start at the centre and work out - that's both drilling and riveting. If you drill all the holes first, as you rivet you'll pull the holes on the two pieces out of alignment.

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Another note on rivets. I use these rivets for all Land Rover body work; blind aluminium rivets, 4.8mm diameter, 6.4mm grip. So far as I can tell, they are identical to the original rivets.

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After the riveting, smooth out any rough edges, spray a bit of etch primer followed by paint. Oh, and sweep up before SWMBO gets back :D

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Now it has to sit aside while we get the winch itself ready and mount it... but that's for next time.

[Chris078]

Looks good Dervish.
on the rivets, I thought the factory rivets had a steel mandrel instead of an aluminium one.

Also note, as I found out, if you have a PTO winch, you cannot have a RTC steering damper as the spring will foul on the winch driveshaft.

[BadCo.]

This is going to be a good thread and thanks for the tip on the rivets. I have a few that need replacing...

[Dervish]

This time we'll focus on mounting the winch. This seems like quite a simple put-bolts-in-holes exercise but it can be quite a headache if you don't know what you're doing.

To prepare - you should already have the grille surround off - remove the folded metal centre section of the bullbar and the front two bolts of the steering guard. Pivot the steering guard down 100mm or so.

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Your winch should already have the rear mounting bar bolted on to it, as well as the cable guard. Now lift the immensely heavy winch into position; the rear mounting bar has to be fed through the opening created by pivoting the steering guard down. Once it is though, the winch's extended sump on the passenger's side has to be fed into the chassis by angling the winch from underneath - it is too wide to simply raise into place.

Once you have the winch in situ, you'll have to hold it with one arm. Feed the bolt through the chassis mount on either end of the rear mount bar from the top with your second arm, and of course wind the nut on from underneath with your third arm. Simple.

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I imagine the proper way to do it is to completely remove the steering guard and use a jack to lift the winch, but if you have reasonable experience with working on cars you'll be used to doing things that require three arms.

A note here. The tabs of the rear mount bar go under the chassis mount tabs. It is possible to feed the winch in from the top so that the tabs of the bar are on top of the tabs on the chassis, however the holes in the front plate will never line up with the winch like this.

From this point, installing the front plate and grille surround are relatively simple.

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Next post will be mounting the driveline. While it doesn't sound too interesting I can guarantee some good content, perhaps some comparisons between a civvy LT95 Thomas winch setup and the military one, some CAD mock ups of the mounting plates for the driveline for DIYers, some part numbers etc.


Looks good Dervish.
on the rivets, I thought the factory rivets had a steel mandrel instead of an aluminium one.


Yes they do, as do the ones I use - only the rivet body itself is aluminium. A point worth noting, thanks.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Geez I'm glad mine came with a winch!:cool:

[hrt427_monaro]

Hi mate the pics attached don’t seem to work can we get some new ones please

[Dervish]

Ok. So I fell off the rails with updating this thread and people have called me on it. Photobucket also screwed everybody so I've had to fix the photos in the previous posts.

...

This time; installing the PTO drive. First step is to drop the oil in the TC. Then remove the PTO and inspection covers (rectangle and circular plates). From here you can see the Perentie-only input gear with a sprocket on it; you'll need that gear if you're trying to fit this PTO winch to a civvy LT95.

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Before fitting the PTO drive box, loop some wire through the ends of the chain. This is so if you drop the chain later, you won't have to remove the drive box to retrieve it. Put some sealant on the mating surface for the drive box. Now simultaneously lift the drive box and poke the wire through the PTO cover and try to get some bolts in to hold the drive box in place.

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Now put the chain carefully on the sprocket and carefully remove the wires. DON'T LET THE CHAIN DROP.

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Next is the master link.

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The master link's locking clip has to face opposite the direction of rotation - it has to look like this:

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Just tighten the bolts to the box and replace the PTO cover. Refill the TC with oil and you're done.

Next time we'll focus on the driveline.

[Zakgthomas]

Hey Dervish, just wondering if you have any photos of the drive line install? Im just about to go through with it and anything you have would help!
Cheers Zak

[Dervish]

Hey Dervish, just wondering if you have any photos of the drive line install? Im just about to go through with it and anything you have would help!
Cheers Zak

Well, provided you have the bits it's all pretty straightforward. All joints have a keyway, key and - with the exception of the slip joint - an allen head grub screw to hold everything in place.

Here are photos from rear forward:

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This is the PTO drive box front output flange. The rearmost driveshaft yoke bolts on. If you don't have the bolts, make sure the ones you use don't go right the way through the flange and into the PTO drive box casing. If they do, they'll dig a channel into the case as they spin.

On the other end of that shaft is the slip joint and first body mount/plummer block bearing:

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The slip joint obviously allows the gearbox to move relative to the chassis. The body mount uses pre-existing holes in the chassis. If anyone needs to make this body mount I have a Sketchup file of it that I'll try to attach to this post or something.

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Next further forward is the second body mount and joint. I don't have a good photo of this but you can see it in the first photo of this post. There are existing holes in the engine mount to attach the flange block bearing via a bit of angle steel. The rod forward of this runs to a UJ that attaches directly to the winch.

If you have a big box of bits with nothing attached to anything else, the rearmost shaft is the second longest one, the centre shaft is the longest and the foremost shaft is the shortest.

[Dervish]

Sketchup files can't be attached to forum posts; if you need it let me know.

[Zakgthomas]

Cheers, I'm just about to put mine in and this will help so much

[C H T]

Thank you for all the pictures and the info on installing the PTO and winch. I recently bought an immaculate Perentie Survey fitted with a winch form new, but the PTO had been removed together with the shafts. Your pictures and info was extremely useful. I had to make the mouting plate and fit the PTO to the transfer case. All is now fitted up and working.

C H T