112-501 brake refurb after 17 years.

[Dinty]

Today I moved a few trucks around (Op Rubics Cube) positioned 112-501 in front of the shed, took a short drive and bought 5 meters of bundy tubing
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jacked her up placed axle stands under, remove wheels, strip brake components
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it took approx. 2 hours for me to strip all the brake parts from each corner of the vehicle.
The brakes were new parts 17 years ago, they still work OK but it has been niggling away at me for some time to have them sleeved in Stainless, so while I was at it I thought I would check and replace any brake tubing that looks suspect, the wheel cylinders were still in good order
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all other sundry items were bagged n tagged
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anyway they should arrive at their destination on Monday with Express Post (hopefully) might get them back by late next week, next job is to remove the brake pendant as the M/cyl has a weep so it's being replaced as well, and that will mean new pipe works as the new cylinder is a CV unit, anyway cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Moving along as I have too, as if I don't do it no-one will, I had a lazy start today (few other things to do) anyway the offending/leaking item
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the system had been sucked out using a 20ml syringe, that way it makes less mess and the possibility of spraying brake fluid when wrestling with the unit getting it out.
The simplest way is to remove the brake/clutch reservoir and the bracket that supports it, that allows you to swing it around and lift it out, still a little bit of difficulty.
With that out of the way, a rag placed over the clutch inlet pipe, I had removed all the screws on the floor sections and removed it, gee it was a simple task with no brake pedal in the way
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the area looks comparatively clean after almost 17 years, I will need to source some OD paint though as the leak caused the paint to blister as it does.
Onto the bench with the pendant assembly remove old CB cylinder and replace with the new CV type, re-fit to the bulkhead, make up new delivery tube from resv<>master cylinder
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With that task completed the LHS guard was removed as I'm replacing the brake tubing on that side, it has it's own set differing degrees of difficulty s well
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next take some rough measurements of length (near enough) add them all up allow a little extra and hope you have enough tubing, I have a 'RIDGID' brand double flaring tool it has been put to good use again today, anyway a double flare was applied to one end of the 3/16" dia tubing, 3/8"UNF female fitting slipped on then a rough bend was applied before using a small tool that I had to make as I can't find the old one I have had for years LOL
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this acts the same as the flex hose, and it also allows you to bend the tubing around in that curve that is so LHS front Series 2A
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I knocked off around 1600hrs as I had strained a muscle in my right upper arm, if it isn't raining tomorrow maybe I will have that fancy bit of pipe work completed, it would be a 10 minute job with no gearbox/Tcase, but I'm not going to remove them just to do this, wish me luck, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I have made another brake pipe today as I couldn't get the outlet pipe to line up with the new M/cylinder
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the fitting was too short so back to the brake place and got the longer ones, luckily it's only 700 meters from home, my Stainless sleeved wheel cylinders should arrive tomorrow all cost $223.00 anyway cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

My re-sleeved items arrived yesterday morning, so I set about getting things organized to refit them
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nice n neat aren't they
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I fitted the left front first then worked my way around on the LHS
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/374.jpg
when I remade the pipe that goes under the G/box I had to remake one of these, it helps to line up the bend with the flex hose
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for some reason I keep losing the darn things LOL.
I had moved and fitted the RHS front then onto the last cylinder, shock horror the tube nut was up dead tight and the bundy tube was still loose I could move it about .5mm I quickly removed the wheel cylinder and had a look, it then dawned on me what was wrong, there were no brass nipples in the bottom of the threaded hole to pick up the 'double flare' and thus tighten the whole assembly making it leak free
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I rang the brake place that did the re-sleeve, they could mail me some and I might get them in about 5 days time that was no damn good to me, so I sourced what I needed 700 meters from home
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I got 4 of them, I didn't fit them to the front cylinders as the flex hose doesn't have a double flare and is too short on the flange to reach the bottom of the hole.
The next job was how to fit them, I thought I had better make a very short length of tubing with a double flare, this would be used to 'flare out' the item so it wouldn't come adrift next time I have to undo or remove the cylinder
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using a Number drill on the plain section of the drill, located the hole in the bottom of the cylinder, then with a pair of surgical tweezers pushed the '? Olive' home, then screwed in my short tool to seat it, it was a success.
I still needed to renew the rear brake pipes, I had bought 5 meters of tubing and it has basically almost disappeared underneath 112-501
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/379.jpg
it is very uncomfortable working in a confined space underneath the Land Rover using my tubing bender, but I managed
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so I guess if my T/A is back on her feet tomorrow I will have a go at bleeding the system and hopefully there will be no leaks, wish me luck, cheers Dennis
ps the LHS rear tubing was old and it must have had a tight spot on it when refitted to the wheel cylinder thus I couldn't feel any movement, I checked and it was the same as the RHS nothing for the double flare to seat on,,.

[Dinty]

Well another day, brakes bled and adjusted took all of 30 minutes, it took me longer to refit the wheels and torque the nuts, test drive, from 35MPH it pulls up reasonably quickly and in a straight line, now stored away again, cheers Dennis