Ratchet Adaptor for Torque Wrench

[Busted Syncro]

G'day All,

Bought a Hans Tools (Taiwan) Ratchet Adaptor 41804 1/2" drive off Ebay for my beam style T/W and arrived yesterday.
Quality good.
24 tooth Ratchet (15 Degrees)
Works as it should.
Able to be taken apart to repair.
Pulled 120Ft/Lb to test and still in one piece.
Email reply from Hans Tools states DIN/ISO rated to 377Ft/Lb.

Ratchet action for those tight places with limited access.

He is the Link:
Ratchet Adapter 1 2"DR Square Drive High Quality Finger Ratchet Ratchet Handle | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ratchet-Adapter-1-2-Dr-Square-Drive-High-Quality-Finger-Ratchet-Ratchet-Handle-/161505710286?hash=item259a7d90ce:g:KngAAOSwQJhUfZQ 5)

Chris

[Toxic_Avenger]

Can handle 512 Nm... that's pretty stout!

I have a 400mm breaker bar and 6 point deep sockets which I use for all the heavier jobs, but the issue is the limited angles you can get from the 6 point socket- often doesn't work in your favour. This ratchet adaptor would be an ideal tool for these situations.

[Busted Syncro]

Only tested it to 160Nm. (Email states maximum safe torque 512Nm.)
However, for the price it's worth a go at higher torque. Wear safety glasses!!!!:cool:
Never bought from Hans Tools before. It's a family business in Taiwan and has an extensive E catalogue. Answered Email overnight.

Socket head screw to pull apart.
Tension Wrench angle only 90' and a pain sometimes.

Chris

[Tank]

There can be problems of not getting correct torque figures if you use anything between Torque wrench head and bolt/nut being torqued, even an extension drive, my W&B's came with square 1/2" drive extensions (1" up to 12") which clip directly into the head of the torque wrench and replace the standard 1/2" drive bar.
I have tested, on an old engine, using a standard 6" and 12" Sidchrome extension drive/bar against the 6" and 12" 1/2" square extensions (which are stamped with their max. torque figures.
There was between 1/2 a bolt/nut flat and a 1/4 of a flat difference, the Sidcchrome extensions were not done up as far as the square extensions even though the torque readings were the same.
The Sidchrome or any other quality 1/2" extension bars allow more flex and trigger the clicker on the torque wrench before the bolt has reached it's correct position.
So I would check if there is a different reading using this "Ratchet" gadget, or you could end up with less torque on the bolt than you think, Regards Frank.

[Blknight.aus]

Umm unless you're permitting the head to deflect off of the center orrotation or your ratchet adaptor includes some kind of torque limiter, torque mulitplier or is built with the centers off axis.

No, Just no.

the rotational deflection of an extension bar simply means you have to pull the handle further round the circle to achieve the final required torque on the bolt. Unless your doing the bolt up so tightly that you're exceeding the yeild strength of your extension bars in which case

1. you need to select more appropriate tools
2. you need to select better quality tools
3. you wont get the torque wrench to click anyways because the extension bar will be absorbing the torque and not delivering it to the head of the bolt.

the logic is newtonianly simple. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. If I put 30ftlb of rotational toque on one end of a bar that has no method of friction applied to it to absorb any of the effort applied how many ftlb of torque appear at the other end of the bar?

IF however you allow the torque wrench to deflect off axis because of slop in the fittings and not supporting the head of the wrench inline with the center of rotation what happens to the applied torque and what is the formula for working out the applied torque value?

[Tank]

Umm unless you're permitting the head to deflect off of the center orrotation or your ratchet adaptor includes some kind of torque limiter, torque mulitplier or is built with the centers off axis.

No, Just no.

the rotational deflection of an extension bar simply means you have to pull the handle further round the circle to achieve the final required torque on the bolt. Unless your doing the bolt up so tightly that you're exceeding the yeild strength of your extension bars in which case

1. you need to select more appropriate tools
2. you need to select better quality tools
3. you wont get the torque wrench to click anyways because the extension bar will be absorbing the torque and not delivering it to the head of the bolt.

the logic is newtonianly simple. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. If I put 30ftlb of rotational toque on one end of a bar that has no method of friction applied to it to absorb any of the effort applied how many ftlb of torque appear at the other end of the bar?

IF however you allow the torque wrench to deflect off axis because of slop in the fittings and not supporting the head of the wrench inline with the center of rotation what happens to the applied torque and what is the formula for working out the applied torque value?
So you're saying that extension bars don't twist, why then when using an extension bar with a rattle gun on a very tight nut/bolt and it won't undo, then you remove the extension bar and the nut/bolt undoes easily.
Quote: "[/the rotational deflection of an extension bar simply means you have to pull the handle further round the circle to achieve the final required torque on the bolt."B].

If you pull the handle further as you say and the bolt/nut is not moving then my W&B torque wrench will reach it's designated torque before the bolt/nut has reached its correct position, which means quiet simply that the extension bar has some twist,
Quote: "[B]1. you need to select more appropriate tools
2. you need to select better quality tools
3. you wont get the torque wrench to click anyways because the extension bar will be absorbing the torque and not delivering it to the head of the bolt.
.
I did state that I was using quality tools, sorry I don't get #3., Regards Frank.

[Busted Syncro]

G'day All,
Thanks for the feedback.
The Ratchet adapter is compact in design and does not have a bar connecting input and output as such. Only male and female 1/2" square drive and Ratchet in between.
However, my Tension Wrench is due for a Cal so hopefully in the next few weeks will get them to test with and without adaptor to see if there is a difference on there NATA certified equipment. (Fortunately rang last week however nobody in workshop that week.)
Will post the result.
Chris

[steveG]

5 ft/lbs loss for every 6" of length extension bar, you can even get an App. for your phone to calculate, Regards Frank.


I feel sick. All those aircraft bolts I torqued up to 50 in/lb with a 6" extension were actually undoing themselves????

C'mon Frank - its out of the bag now. Let's stop derailing the OP's thread now ;)

Steve

[Blknight.aus]

want to know whats really cool about those ratchets?

you can use them as finger ratchtes while they are hooked up to the torque wrench so if you have room to get your hand around the head of the wrench you can actually tighten the socket up with your fingers while you hold everything in alignment so if you get yourself in one of those fiddly hard to get into postiions (like say td5 alternator and starter bolts or the top bolts on a tdi gearbox housing) you can slide everything in put inwards pressure with one hand on the torque wrench and then just casually reach up grab the extension bars and turn them with the other hand. If you get one of those sodsa bolts that goes easy for 3/4 of a turn and then is just past hand tight, no problems, just give the torque wrench a go while your hand on the extension bar provides the inwards push.

If that one breaks on you let me know and I'll get you a link to an even better designed one that has knurling on the body and the ratcheting occurs on the female side on the inside of the ratchet so you can do the same trick while having about a 2 inch wide body to grab instead of a 3/4 ish diameter extension bar.

[bee utey]

Someone needs to learn the difference between static and dynamic forces.... :p

[Blknight.aus]

another quick tip for the OP with those ratcheting heads

put a couple of drops of epoxy resin on the body in line with the rises on the direction selection mechanism and with the ratchet in either the ondo or undo position (your choice) use a dremel or small file to notch or remove the ridges that line up with the epoxy. This lets you set it by feel when you're using it as a hand spinner or to check it when you bump it while in use but cant see whats happening.

you can also cheat a bit and using a good elastic band wrap it around the female riser at the top and pulling it around in just the right way use it to apply pull on the selector wheel mech so that it will reset back if you happen to bump it against an adjacent part that wants to keep knocking it off the setting you want.

[VladTepes]

I'll get you a link to an even better designed one that has knurling on the body and the ratcheting occurs on the female side on the inside of the ratchet so you can do the same trick while having about a 2 inch wide body to grab instead of a 3/4 ish diameter extension bar.



Link please Dave.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

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