D2 transfer case removal question

[acgmarketing]

Finally (maybe 100k overdue) getting around to removing transfer case from the 2000 D2. It's been getting more and more clunky on gear change. With front and rear shafts removed it is very clear its in need of coming out. I've got a donor one to put in and will either just keep it or get the original refurbished (it's got centre lock fitted).

Question is ... it looks like the left side transmission support bracket attaches to the rear of the transmission (auto) and the right side attaches to the transfer case. Is it possible to leave the left side bracket in place and still drop out the transfer case? I'd still give support under transmission but if I can just leave the bracket in place it seems to me why take it off and it would add some extra support to transmission and engine rear if left in place. Anything stopping doing it that way?

[Disco W.A]

From memory you have to remove both mounts and drop the transfer case and gear box down to clear the floor pan before the transfer box can be removed

[acgmarketing]

Certainly the various instructions I've read show that but I'm curious if there is any obstruction to stop it coming back and then down with the left mount still in place. I can access all of the mounting bolts that are on the rear face of the transfer case and the two on the front. I've disconnected the wiring loom connections to the case and the selector cable from under the transfer selector. I've also dropped the exhaust pipe sections from the rear of the transfer case forward and removed the chassis cross member under the transfer. Looks like the case would drop down while the left mount is in place and looks like it has space to slide backwards while the mechanism is still held as high as the left mount would keep it...just curious if anyone knows why it's necessary to remove the left mount.

[woko]

I've never removed the left mount to remove transfer box. There is enough room in the floor pan to get it out. If your box has studs on the end of the bolts in the rear plate coving the input gear remove those studs. They will foul on the heat shield for the muffler

Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app

[Nomad9]

Hi Agcmarketing,
I'm close to embarking upon the same journey as yourself here with the transfer case so this thread is quite interesting for me. Before I start down the removal track, with the clunking noise you mention, did it only happen occasionally or all the time? Mine has the clunk mainly on the way down from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. On other occasions it is a seamless change, nothing. Is yours similar or does yours clunk all the time going up and down the box? I get a slight "jerk" between first and second going up and a little "jerk" from second to third, not so much of a clunk......... Any similarities here?

I was going to let everything underneath go and drop the back of the back of the box as low as possible, however this does make the angle a bigger issue to manage getting the transfer case off and then back on again. I've made up some extended guide studs to slide the transfer case off and back on again. Mine is also leaking from the shaft end between the transfer case and the gearbox.

Cheers Marty

[Blknight.aus]

it can be eaier with the trans dropped down especially if you are using long guide studs and no jack to do the reinstall relying on mandraulics to get it back up.

[Nomad9]

Hi Dave,
I'm fortunate enough to access to a hoist and a transmission jack. Access underneath should be relatively good.

Do you have any comment about the clunking I'm getting? Doesn't happen all the time and I've now done three transmission oil changes and two filter changes....... I am using a synthetic transmission oil, do these transmissions go OK with synthetic oils?

Cheers Marty

[acgmarketing]

Nomad, mine had been getting steadily worse with more clunk both up and down over an extended period of time. Some times though it would go away completely, particularly with a heavy load or large trailer (I suspect "looseness" in the gearing somewhere in the drivetrain was not being able to show itself when always under some drag load but when the car was spritely with just me on board it would "overrun" one way or the other and clunk every time. Certainly seems that way now I've got the front and rear shafts off. Will know more once I get it fully out.

Re dropping it down versus leaving in the left mount, there's a bolt/stud at the top on driver's side to which the transmission wiring loom was fixed by a nut. Once removed that nut and moved the loom out of the way there's still another nut on the stud which looks to be one holding the transfer to the transmission. I suspect the need to drop the transfer down is partly to allow access to that nut/stud. Otherwise it might be take off the transmission tunnel cover under the centre console from inside and access from on top - would like to avoid that if possible. Any big hints or tips how to get that nut off the stud? I can get a socket to it but the stud length is too long and the socket doesn't reach down to it. Maybe I just need to deep socket for that one... Any better clues?

[discorevy]

Deep socket is best , do as Marty has done ,before putting it back in use alignment studs ( bout 80 - 100mm long ) this makes sure the input seal doesn't get ripped up on the shaft , there is enough clearance to remove the tc squarely ,you can leave the left mount in , just loosen it before going back in with the tc , this let's you lift the transmission making it easier to fit the tc mount also make sure you put the short bolts back in the same spots ( take note when removing them), while the shafts are off check them , especially front , ditto for front and rear diff backlash, be a shame to r and r tc only to find it was the diff

[Nomad9]

Hi Discorevy,
Yea I learnt the hard way with the guide studs, I damaged the seal going back together and ended up taking the whole thing apart again. I never dismantled the transmission tunnel so I can only assume that I used a deep socket. I have got a set of deep sockets with like a ball on the end which I bought off fleabay, I've checked today they are some sets for about $100, I have found them very useful when working on gearboxes and transfer cases, so whilst they are not that cheap right now they will pay for themselves time and time again.

Cheers Marty

[Blknight.aus]

Hi Dave,

Do you have any comment about the clunking I'm getting? Doesn't happen all the time and I've now done three transmission oil changes and two filter changes....... I am using a synthetic transmission oil, do these transmissions go OK with synthetic oils?

Cheers Marty

The clunking could be spud shaft, center diff lash, a drive flange or diff lash

it could also be a mount or an exhaust bracket.

I would hope they go ok with a synthetic oil as the OEM oil is a synth.

[Nomad9]

Hi Dave,
Drive flange, ah ha, I haven't checked them yet, this is very interesting, sometimes when accelerating I get this subtle thud, feels like a wind up thud if you know what I mean, very short duration, on the drivers side, feels like it is under my right foot, doesn't do it all the time. I thought it had something to do with the brakes however I've checked them couldn't find anything loose.The clunk in all honesty feels to be coming from the centre to the back of the vehicle, checked the exhaust mounts and had to replace one, they are all good now.

"Spudshaft" got me with this one........... where is that?

Thanks for the pointers.

Cheers Marty

[LandyAndy]

My money is on the shims in the CDL being worn out,they provide the gold sheen to the oil;););););)
If you can afford it,and intend keeping the vehicle,look into an Ashcroft ATB CDL.Those who have them swear by them.
Andrew

[acgmarketing]

Deep socket was the answer. Jack under the back right corner of transfer case and a helper ready to lower jack while I balanced the TC on the Jack and down it came.

No need to touch the left side transmission mount but does help to drop the assembly down as far as left side mount will let it come before working TC back on guide studs. My studs are a bit short so I might have to change them before I reinstall. Also would help to remove studs projecting backwards on the back part of the TC as I was able to juuuuuust slide it down past the end of the output shaft in the transmission.

The output shaft on the transmission has some "wobble" up down left and right. If I wobble it upwards it causes transmission fluid to dribble out the rear seal of the transmission. My guess is I should change out the transmission rear seal but is there an issue with the output shaft having movement? Should it be rock solid along its axis and not have wobble I can do by hand?

[d2dave]

The output shaft on the transmission has some "wobble" up down left and right. If I wobble it upwards it causes transmission fluid to dribble out the rear seal of the transmission. My guess is I should change out the transmission rear seal but is there an issue with the output shaft having movement? Should it be rock solid along its axis and not have wobble I can do by hand?

I suspect that this would be ok. On a Falcodore, when the tail shaft is removed there is a fair amount of sideways play in the tranny output shaft and this is normal, as the tailshaft by design supports the output shaft.

I can't say for sure, but I suspect the same would apply to a ZF, with the difference being your TC input gear being the rear support for the ZF output shaft..

[acgmarketing]

Donor TC is in no problems. Clearly not all slack in drive train sorted as still some jumpiness to gear changes up and down. Not having played with diff before is there some acceptable amount of freeplay rotation for them which I could use to start diagnose where issue might be?