D2 rear seal and getting a roadworthy ...

[n00dle]

Ok, so I'm trying to sort out a roadworthy cert for my 2000 D2 but I'm having some issues.

Apart from the trailing/radius arm bushes being too 'old and cracked' for him to pass it, apparently the rear main seal is leaking too much...

As far as I was concerned there wasn't a LR in history that did't weep a little oil but the 'leak' he is referring to doesn't even drip .. it just droops a bit after use, maybe a drop every now an again but there're no small puddles in the garage where I park.

The mechanic says that he will have to replace the bushes and also the rear seal costing a few grand. I don't mind doing the bushes myself but the idea of tackling the rear main seal without ramps etc is a little too daunting.

So I guess I'm looking for some advice, does this sound right?
If I take the inspection plate off via the three bolts there is oil there so I'm pretty certain it is the rear seal...

[Bohica]

I heard of some one who had a Patrol that leaked a bit of oil from the RHS rear wheel. I took the wheel off and gave it a thorough clean with de greaser. It passed the roadworthy.
So you could give every thing there a really good clean.
Clean up as much as possible behind the inspection plate.


BTW the road worthy was posted in on a Wednesday, stolen the following Saturday and written off that Sunday.
So I bought a Disco!!

[R2D2]

You don't needs ramps to do the rear main. A jack and some stands will do. You can do it in your driveway. It's not that hard.
Td5 or V8?

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using AULRO mobile app

[n00dle]

V8.
I tried to have a browse on the interweb for an instructable that was 'driveway friendly' but came up with nothing, and also it may just be my useless google skills but i can't seem to find a part number for the seal.... the slight drip doesn't even bother me (probably should) as I'm more than happy to just top it up but ho hum, I'm sure it will be worth it ... hopefully.

[R2D2]

Make silicone your friend.
Is the wading plug in?
That should stop enough oil to pass the roady, then you can fix it later.


Sent from my HTC_0P6B using AULRO mobile app

[d2dave]

If the leak is minor enough, give it a good clean just before you take it in for its test.

You will probably need to now take it elsewhere, as the place you have been will be checking very closely.

[rob tilbury]

You don't needs ramps to do the rear main. A jack and some stands will do. You can do it in your driveway. It's not that hard.
Td5 or V8?

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using AULRO mobile app

I just did the rear main seal on the TD5 when i had the gearbox out ,,, its a bugga of a job if you dont have the big round yellow plastic applicator to get the thin dellicat seal over the end of the crank shaft ,
the two pips in the sump gasket get in the way bad and really need a leap of faith as you will only know if its fixed when the Fly wheel and gearbox are put back in and the motor is spun up and taken for a drive ,,,,,, good luck ,,, i will never do it again ,, i will hand over the 2 grand and get some one else to take the gamble ........

[knuts2au]

Find another roadworthy place that's not as picky on older vehicles, if it's for you and your not selling it, it's not a safety item. i just gave mine a good clean and took it straight in, was like yours only just drips, not enough to make a big mess or leave marks.

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
If we have to go over the pits in WA and the vehicle has faults you have to take the vehicle back to the same place for the retest. If you don't that's lucky for you. Taking the engine out rather than dropping the gearbox and transfer case out might be another option,
Personally I would take the cleaning up thoroughly option and take it back. I took mine to the pits and it leaked diesel onto the guys shirt, I knew after that mine was never gong to pass. Open heart surgery to replace that regulating valve on the side of the engine........
Cheers Marty