LT230 Swap

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

I've just swapped the LT230 in my '89 auto RRC 3.5L. I had an early RRC 1:1 in there and swapped it for an "F" series one out of a '96 Disco 1 manual.

I know I need to change the output shaft on the auto as the LT230 I have now is the cross drilled one. My question is, I have another auto out of a '94 RRC 3.9L which is at another location, does anyone know if the output shaft on that transmission used the longer splines?

[Homestar]

I can offer a little insight from a conversion I did on mine, but nothing specific as I don't know what all the differences are. I transplanted a 3.9 engine and auto from a 95 D1 into my 85 RRC and my LT230 bolted straight onto that auto.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Am I missing something here. A '94 RRC would have a Borg-Warner viscous coupling transfer wouldn't it? (not an LT230)

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

The 94 RRC had a BW transfer but since there were so many interchangeable parts between the RRCand D1 I was thinking that the spud shaft may have been the one I needed since it was a later model. I looked at it tonight and it isn't the long spline I need.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Yes the 4HP22 is interchangeable between the B/W and the LT230, but no info on the spud shaft length.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

I can confirm that it has the short spline spud shaft when fitted to the BW transfer.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Just some more information for future reference.

The long spline spud shaft was only ever factory fitted to auto Discoverys. The RRC never had the crossed drilled input gear on the LT230 so the auto fitted to the RRC has the short spline. Just picked up a long spline spud shaft from a series 2 auto Disco so they are the same.

[Mercguy]

Ashcroft sell the spud shaft for this exact application.

[superquag]

Would that mean I'd need a new/Ashcroft spud shaft, IF I picked up a wrecked D1 and put the LT230 into my '95 (BW) softdash?

The Lady Sarah, '95 Classic Vogue SE (softdash) with working EAS.... and one ripped-out ABS sensor...:o

[Mercguy]

Would that mean I'd need a new/Ashcroft spud shaft, IF I picked up a wrecked D1 and put the LT230 into my '95 (BW) softdash?

In a word, yes. With the proviso that you are not using the d1 auto as well. If it's just the LT230, then you need the spud shaft.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Yes, but if the D1 was auto as well, then just use the spud shaft from that. If it was manual, it doesn't have a spud shaft as the output shaft is all one piece.

Got mine all back together last night too, but found out that the linkages are different from auto to manual. The manual pivot lever has a dog leg in it because the pivot point is in a different spot. Have to use the auto pivot lever that I had on there originally which is straight.

[barnfindseries3ffr]

OK so now I am questioning myself here, I have a 90 RRC bw box on a manual tranny.
I have stripped out of a 85 RRC auto tranny the LT230 and front shaft.
Besides the usual fiddly bits it should be a straight forward job? No extra bits as it's going from a auto to a manual gearbox?

[headdamage]

My 1993 200tdi RRC had an LT77s and Borg t-case. The Borg unbolted and a used LT230 from a Disco 1 fitted right no with not problems. The only thing that needed changing, from what I recall, was the front drive/prop shaft. Needed the shorter one from a disco due to the change in length of the front output housing from the Borg to the LT230. Note that my RRC come with a factory cross member that directly supports the LT77 and the Borg was not mounted to the chassis/frame. I kept this and the LT230 is not mounted to the chassis/frame either.

[gavinwibrow]

OK so now I am questioning myself here, I have a 90 RRC bw box on a manual tranny.
I have stripped out of a 85 RRC auto tranny the LT230 and front shaft.
Besides the usual fiddly bits it should be a straight forward job? No extra bits as it's going from a auto to a manual gearbox?


From my collection of "one day may be useful" info - for what its worth!!

LT230 Changeover for BW VC

Start by removing the T-case shift knob so that it can slip down and out of the boot when the tranny drops down. While you're there, you might as well remove the centre console and even drill the 3/16" rivets out of the sheet metal tranny cover to remove it and gain easier access to the shifter and cable linkage as it will need to be removed (it mounts to the tranny and actuates the T-case through a cable, which also needs to be disconnected at this time) and you'll also need to have access though this hole to install the LT230 shifter, and it makes it a bit easier to reach some of the wiring.
Next, pull the pin and E-clip for the handbrake cable and push the cable out through the hole, then go underneath and pull it clear.
You need to remove both drive shafts (you do have a Disco front driveshaft to install along with the LT230, don't you? It's longer than the RRC shaft due to there being no VC on the front of the LT box.) The front shaft needs to come completely out since it will be replaced by the Disco unit, but the rear shaft can be disconnected from the T-case, compressed at the slip yoke and then secured off to the side by wiring or bungee-ing it to the right frame rail.
Next, remove the cross member under the tranny. It's not in the way of the T-case as it sits forward of it, but the back of the tranny needs to be allowed to drop to give the T-case sufficient room to slide rearward and off of the tranny output shaft. Removing the cross member involves a bit of work as it's a wedge fit between the frame rails, it needs to be pried or hammered out. It can also simply drop out (and back in again later) if you have access to a Porta-Power unit which can spread the frame rails slightly to allow more clearance. I have one, but I've never bothered to use it as I've always found it relatively easy to get the cross member out. For that matter, I've even gone so far as to disconnect only the rear (T-case) end of the front driveshaft to start with and then grabbing it and using it as a hammer of sorts to bang the cross member down and out.
Disconnect all wiring from the T-case (this is primarily the VSS for the speedo at the driver's side rear by the parking brake drum, a sensor of some sort that appears to be a temp sensor just above the drum, and the sensor for the Borg-Warner neutral warning buzzer.)
You'll need a good rolling floor jack, not one of the little wimpy ones they sell at Kragen but a full-sized 2 or 3 ton unit with plenty of lift with a tranny jack adapter. Alternatively, you might rent a tranny jack. It's possible to manhandle the T-case out and back in again, but it's not really worth the hassle.
So, assuming you have some sort of tranny jack, put it under the T-case and secure it with the chains or straps or whatever. Undo the mounts and then lower the T-case and tranny together so the mounts are clear of the frame. Now, reach up and undo the T-case vent hose that you couldn't quite see or reach when the T-case was in its normal position. Check to see that you've disconnected everything the attaches to the T-case at this time.
Support the tranny so that it can't drop any further after the you remove the T-case (a bottle jack and blocks work well for this) undo the bolts holding the T-case to the tranny and then slide it back off of the tranny output shaft and lower it to the floor.
===============
I recommend getting a transfer case out of a later model Discovery I, 97-98. They has the cross drilled gears (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=438c80dbbb1d8911&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=438c80dbbb1d8911&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dgears&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Egears%3C%2Fspan%3E) that don't chew up the transmission (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=23b765f35c7744dd&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=23b765f35c7744dd&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dtransmission&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Etransmission%3C%2Fspan%3E) output shaft. Off the vehicle you get your TC you'll need:

TC frame bracket (might as well grab the bolts too)
The parking brake assembly, including the cable
The front driveshaft
The output shaft off the transmission (it's one bolt (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=7997cb8baaadc5b2&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=7997cb8baaadc5b2&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dbolt&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Ebolt%3C%2Fspan%3E), and the length is different on the later shafts)
The TC shifter linkage
I forget if you need the tunnel plate as well, but you might as well grab that as well
===============
The TC off the D2 doesn't work because it isn't setup for the speed sensor, and you don't want to run the risk of getting one that doesn't have the diff lock.
You will need the front shaft and parking brake (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=6b2645d94eda5f7d&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=6b2645d94eda5f7d&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dparking%2Bbrake&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Eparking%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan%3Ebra ke%3C%2Fspan%3E) system (cable, drum, shoes).
If you get the one off the 96 D1 grab all of the linkage for it including the shift knob & the trans/box mount (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=8db1bec095017338&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=8db1bec095017338&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dmount&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Emount%3C%2Fspan%3E) brackets to the frame. Also you will need the bolt (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=7997cb8baaadc5b2&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=7997cb8baaadc5b2&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dbolt&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Ebolt%3C%2Fspan%3E) on splined shaft on the transmission (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=23b765f35c7744dd&type=CD&exp=60%3ACI1C55A%3A3&libId=jkdgrayj01000egp000DAc9g0ljmc&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&v=1&iid=23b765f35c7744dd&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%2Fref%3Dnb_sb _noss%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dautomotive%26field-keywords%3Dtransmission&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=what%20year(s)%20LT230%20transfer%20case%20w ill%20work%20on%20my%2095%20RRC%3F&txt=%3Cspan%3Etransmission%3C%2Fspan%3E) input (in the bellhousing) part # FTC 5090.
===================
I hadn't seen this answered anywhere even though there a number of threads from people complaining about the terrible beep when the truck thinks the transfer case is in neutral.
People may want to do this just to avoid the issue in future but for me, my LT230 swap requires it.
With the Borg Warner transfer case, there is a neutral switch in the actual linkage/control assembly.
When swapping to the LT230, there is no switch in the linkage because the neutral switch is actually a solenoid on top of the case. I chose not to use the LT230 solenoid because I didn’t want to mess with it when it fails. In the meantime, my truck has nothing connected where the original BW neutral switch was. This causes the "transfer case is in neutral" beeping noise and it won’t stop unless the gear lever is in park. Unfortunately, the fuse (B2) and relay also has many other electrical components so simply pulling the fuse isn’t an option for those that like the radio and gear lever indicator, etc.
What you need to do is remove the lower dash panel on the driver's side (NA spec). You also need to loosen the bolts holding the steering (http://i.viglink.com/?key=e84f810ecf8d0bfd68aef28116a4cb36&insertId=be4f8892ac8f420b&type=L&exp=-1%3Ana%3A0&libId=jkdgw6qm01000egp000DAa1djg9u4&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F226554-lt230-swap-borg-warner-transfer-case-neutral-switch-fix.html&v=1&iid=be4f8892ac8f420b&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_nk w%3Dsteering&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rangerovers.net%2Fforum%2F8-range-rover-classic%2F250377-what-year-s-lt230-transfer-case-will-work-my-95-rrc.html&title=lt230%20swap-%20borg%20warner%20transfer%20case%20neutral%20swi tch%20fix&txt=%3Cspan%3Esteering%3C%2Fspan%3E) column trim together to lower the panel. Don’t forget the bolts inside the air vent to the left of the steering wheel.
There is a black speaker box bolted on a structural piece of metal behind the steering column (see pic). There is a wiring harness that goes into the bottom of the box. Simply pull the harness connector down to disconnect it from the box. On my '93 NA spec, the black wire 2nd from the right when connected is the offending wire that causes the beep specific to the transfer case neutral switch. Remove this wire using either a special connector disconnect tool or simply use a straightened paper clip. It helps if you push the wire into the connector a little bit before pressing on the retaining clip, then it should slide out. You could of course leave the whole connector disconnected and be fine but I'd be afraid I'd be missing out on some pertinent information.
I then wrapped the disconnected single wire with electrical tape and reinstalled the panel. Now you're not driven mad by constant beeping when driving!
=================
For the E-brake - pull the skirt up over the handle. There is a clip holding a pin through the handle - slide the clip off, push the pin out and the E-brake cable will be released from the handle. Be careful about lifting the handle all the way up - if it's at the top and the button is pushed in it will bend the release rod. This might happen as you're pulling the console over the handle.

The TC shifter knob just unscrews off.

The Trans shifter is easy once you know what to do - I couldn't find doc on this so here's what I eventually figured out. Pop the cover plate off (thin screwdriver), and use a socket to remove the retaining nut - I used a thin wall deep socket which just barely fit - I think it's a 3/4" socket. Then you rotate the clip 90 degrees towards the open side with needle nose pliers. Once you get the clip rotated, it will slide off and you can then pull the handle off. Be careful about losing the pieces inside - there's the doohicky the clip was holding on, and the shift button and its spring and maybe another piece too.

After you get the console and sound and heat proofing stuff off, use a 3/16" bit to drill out the rivets that hold the shifter to the body (no need to unscrew the shifter upper part from the lower part), disconnect the shifter at the trans (it's a simple pin and clip) and there's a guide block for the shift cable that you will also need to detach - then you can pull the entire shifter and cable out as one piece, and you won't screw up your trans shifter linkage points or anything like that.

It helps a lot to have the Trans shifter out to adjust the TC linkage. I connected the Trans shifter cable and positioned the shifter in place but didn't connect the guide block so that I could pull it out as I needed to adjust the TC shifter linkage yet still be able to drive around, etc. while I adjusted the TC linkage.