20" rim D4 on Border Track, SA

[DIS4]

Has anyone driven a D4 with 20" rim on border track yet? I got a set of Cooper zeon ltz 275/45R20, it survived few trips to Victoria High country. Would I prepare extra spare with rim. I assumed that I can't drop much tire pressure to avoid over heating on the side wall of low profile tire. I also haven't tested on suspension in tough corrugated track yet. I should order GOE EAS inflation kit for the concern, any thoughts? waiting for ARB Bull Bar for more than a year as it seems never finish its crash test.

Cheers,

[Tombie]

Take your time on the border track - no need to race along - plenty to look at...

Pick your lines and you should be fine.

It's a great drive.

[Tombie]

The GOE inflation kit is a good idea just to have regardless... (Thanks for reminding me)

[Fatso]

Watched an episode of Top Gear where Captain Slow put a full fat RR through the wilds of Canada over rocks water and sand on big rims with standard road tyres against a large Army 6x6 , went places I would not go and did not seem to have a problem . As said earlier take your time .
I Think its up to the driver how good things go or don't go .

[LRD414]

Would I prepare extra spare with rim.
I should order GOE EAS inflation kit for the concern, any thoughts?
Carrying a 2nd spare largely depends on how remote you go and your appetite for the consequences of getting a second flat.
I take a second spare wheel with tyre fitted for longer and/or more remote trips.
Other people take a second spare tyre only or even just a plug/patch kit.
Tyre-only is less weight and easier to pack but requires you to be able to fit it to a wheel yourself or be within striking distance of somewhere that can.
For me, the weight penalty is acceptable for the convenience of simply replacing a 2nd flat and continuing to somewhere that can repair. I also carry a tyre plug kit.
In my view this significantly reduces the risk of being unable to continue a trip due to 2 x unrepairable flats (eg sidewall slash), which is arguably a low risk anyway.

I agree with Tombie re GOE inflation kit and carry the small kit that is only fitted if you have an air leak problem:

The GOE inflation kit is a good idea just to have regardless...

Regards,
Scott

[DIS4]

Got back from border track over the weekend, but car had to be towed back to Melbourne due to suspension fault. The car was limited to maximum speed of 50km, partly due to tyre issue. Today, I picked up the car and heard the suspension vibration and informed the dealer, they recon it might be caused by damaged compressor. There were few sand dunes that I had to push harder to get it past, the service told me that could cost me around $1900 without further checking by mechanic. Any suggestions? The dealer will definitely claim it was from off-road damage and will not covered by warranty. It seems me that clearance was an issue and 20" rim with low profile tyre doesn't help as well. Even though I had been very careful driving and still had the cooper types damaged half hour before we exited from The track.

[TuffRR]

the service told me that could cost me around $1900 without further checking by mechanic. Any suggestions? The dealer will definitely claim it was from off-road damage and will not covered by warranty. It seems me that clearance was an issue and 20" rim with low profile tyre doesn't help as well. Even though I had been very careful driving and still had the cooper types damaged half hour before we exited from The track.

Sounds like the cost of replacing the compressor. If your vehicle is still under warranty it would be hard for them to argue the compressor failing is due to off road use (assuming its not physically damaged).

[Stuart02]

Got back from border track over the weekend, but car had to be towed back to Melbourne due to suspension fault. The car was limited to maximum speed of 50km, partly due to tyre issue. Today, I picked up the car and heard the suspension vibration and informed the dealer, they recon it might be caused by damaged compressor. There were few sand dunes that I had to push harder to get it past, the service told me that could cost me around $1900 without further checking by mechanic. Any suggestions? The dealer will definitely claim it was from off-road damage and will not covered by warranty. It seems me that clearance was an issue and 20" rim with low profile tyre doesn't help as well. Even though I had been very careful driving and still had the cooper types damaged half hour before we exited from The track.

I've got the same tyres, would be interested to hear more details of your experience - pressures, speeds, terrains, comparison to others you were travelling with?

[Graeme]

car had to be towed back to Melbourne due to suspension fault. The car was limited to maximum speed of 50kmThe 50 kph is a warning only. If the car isn't already on the bump-stops then removing the 20A suspension system fuse from the engine bay fuse box will prevent it lowering which means that the vehicle can be driven if everything else is OK. A warning beep will occur regularly but removing the 5A suspension system fuse from the passenger fuse box will stop that.

If you don't already have a way to get extra height for off-road use then consider fitting either GOE multi-hole height sensor rods or the LLAMS kit that I produce.

[BobD]

What suspension fault causes that warning or is it an ABS problem or something?


My car has done tens of thousands of km on the roughest of roads all over Australia and heaps of off road and sand driving including lots of WA sand hills with no issues.


Regardless if wheel size you must lower tyre pressures a lot on sand.

[Graeme]

If the compressor cannot operate (eg electrical plug smashed) or the air-line from the compressor is broken preventing any height or reservoir valve pressure increase then a serious suspension fault will occur. However usually if that message occurs then the vehicle is already on its way to the bump-stops, assuming the pilot exhaust valve solenoid is still operational.

An ABS fault does not trigger the 50kph message, only the safe height (access height) message.

[LRD414]

If the compressor cannot operate (eg electrical plug smashed) or the air-line from the compressor is broken preventing any height or reservoir valve pressure increase then a serious suspension fault will occur. However usually if that message occurs then the vehicle is already on its way to the bump-stops, assuming the pilot exhaust valve solenoid is still operational.

An ABS fault does not trigger the 50kph message, only the safe height (access height) message.
So what's the trigger for the 50km/h message Graeme?
I take it "serious suspension fault" with moving to bump stops and the 50km/h message do not go together so I'm confused.

Also confused about what tyres have to do with an apparent suspension fault or how sand dunes are related?

Gary did you sustain some tyre damage and the suspension issue is unrelated (and bad luck)?
More details about what happened would be good.

Regards,
Scott


....car had to be towed back to Melbourne due to suspension fault....
....The car was limited to maximum speed of 50km, partly due to tyre issue....
....heard the suspension vibration....
....There were few sand dunes that I had to push harder to get it past
....It seems me that clearance was an issue and 20" rim with low profile tyre doesn't help....
....cooper types damaged half hour before we exited....

[sheerluck]

I thought the 50km/h warning was when you have the suspension in off road height, and if you exceed 50km/h without heeding the warning, it drops to normal height. :confused:

[LRD414]

I thought the 50km/h warning was when you have the suspension in off road height, and if you exceed 50km/h without heeding the warning, it drops to normal height. :confused:
I initially thought of this too but had 40km/h in mind as the limit.
Just double-checked in my GOE booklet and you're right it is 50km/h with a warning at I think 40km/h.
Original issues still a mystery then.

Scott

[Graeme]

There are several triggers for the 50 kph message and accompanying attempted lowering but lowering can only occur if the appropriate valves are functioning. Loss of 2 height sensors is one trigger for loss of control of the system and subsequent attempted lowering to the bump-stops. To lower, the corner valves and the pilot exhaust valve must be operational so a disconnected electrical connector at the compressor will prevent the pilot exhaust valve from opening. If the 20A engine bay suspension fuse is removed but not the 5A ignition feed fuse in the passenger fuse panel then the suspension ecu knows that the suspension is not operational but cannot power the valves. The 50 kph message is regularly re-issued whilst the system is not sufficiently functional and ignition power is provided to the suspension ecu.

LR have woken-up to the stupidity of lowering to the bump-stops with the L494 & L405 suspension ecus giving the driver the option not to lower, and presumably the D5 will also have the option.

Edit: My original post was with reference to the maximum speed of 50 kph message rather than a slow or will lower from off-road height message .

[LRD414]

My original post was with reference to the maximum speed of 50 kph message rather than a slow or will lower from off-road height message .
My guess is Gary got the maximum speed message as that would be more relevant with the comment about suspension/compressor problem.

[DIS4]

The 50 kph is a warning only. If the car isn't already on the bump-stops then removing the 20A suspension system fuse from the engine bay fuse box will prevent it lowering which means that the vehicle can be driven if everything else is OK. A warning beep will occur regularly but removing the 5A suspension system fuse from the passenger fuse box will stop that.

If you don't already have a way to get extra height for off-road use then consider fitting either GOE multi-hole height sensor rods or the LLAMS kit that I produce.

Thanks, Graeme. I tried to get a LLAMS organised for sometime, but thought to be ok on this trip. I might push it too hard on some of sand dune, but one of mates on Colorado without modification, on highway Tyre still pass without problems. I just wonder if I am out of luck or should not race against others, but you would not feel good if a colorado still do better with road tyre.

[DIS4]

My guess is Gary got the maximum speed message as that would be more relevant with the comment about suspension/compressor problem.

The full story:
Suspension light turned yellow after I changed tyre, but the spare (255/35R20) is the not same as rest of cooper 275/45R20. That trigger the initial warning, such as ABS, DSC, Parking in yellow. I got suspension light in red after I left border track and drove on high way near Kaniva. It actually warned me the maximum speed to 50k, suspension lower as well.

It is a stupid decision not to have the same spare in time since all local shops had to order in two-three days. One of mates on Land cruiser recon that I should be able to drive back to Melbourne without serious damage. However, the computer might detect the different size of tyre and trigger the warning. This is not the big issue, but compressor will give me more headache now. It is under warranty but one of service guy mentioned that might be out of pockets due to extend of offroad driving. Should I get under body inspection to see if any sign of physical damage? Otherwise, dealer will say offroad damage regardless.

[sheerluck]

:eek:

Now I think we understand. Your spare was definitely not up to the job, it was waaaaay undersized. It's a 27" tyre, compared to the others that are 30".

[Tombie]

And don't listen to your Cruiser owning mate!
Obviously has no idea of the stress on Diff centre with such radically different diameter tyres.. And that's ignoring the fact DSC, ABS and TC will be going mental trying to understand such a large discrepancy in rolling diameter.

Why do you even have a 27" spare? Standard is 30"...


Onto the compressor - if there is no damage to the guard, connectors or wiring ripped loose, take lots of photos and then drop it in - there is an expectation that it be fit for purpose (using offroad is expected).

[DIS4]

I suppose you might listen to anyone who have more experience than a rookie, but apparently they don't have good understanding about D4. is Air compressor under Driver side with a plastic cover? I will have a good look in the morning, make sure that is not physical damage. Once a stage, I thought about to get a defender in order to have good clearance, will LLAMS, GOE ROD resolve most of clearence issue?

Thanks for all.


Gary

[Graeme]

The different size tyre would have caused the ABS ecu to detect a steering angle/wheel speed discrepancy fault to which the suspension ecu responds by lowering to safe height (access height, not the bump-stops) and issue the 50 kph max speed message. As already mentioned, driving at high speed with 1 smaller wheel can cause mechanical damage so the warning was appropriate, as was having it trucked. Driving at the safe/access height at speed is also dangerous as the vehicle will bounce badly over bumps, possibly resulting in loss of control.

Edit: Could the compressor have sustained damage from the trucking?

[Meccles]

I use same tyres/rims and have been a few times on Strabroke and Fraser Island, no issue on sand. But ran at 18-20 psi. What pressure were you using when you were on sand?

[Meccles]

The other thing, did you turn DSC off when in sand? These vehicles are brilliant but...I have dragged D3/4 out of sand where driver had tyres at road pressure, DSC on, didn't know where recovery points were, and were in normal road mode. They really require driver to know how to use them for different situations. Unlike a Colorado :)

[scarry]

Watched an episode of Top Gear where Captain Slow put a full fat RR through the wilds of Canada over rocks water and sand on big rims with standard road tyres against a large Army 6x6 , went places I would not go and did not seem to have a problem . As said earlier take your time .
I Think its up to the driver how good things go or don't go .

But what you did not see were the numerous punctures the RR had on that shoot.From memory it was around 6 or 8.

[Tombie]

I suppose you might listen to anyone who have more experience than a rookie, but apparently they don't have good understanding about D4. is Air compressor under Driver side with a plastic cover? I will have a good look in the morning, make sure that is not physical damage. Once a stage, I thought about to get a defender in order to have good clearance, will LLAMS, GOE ROD resolve most of clearence issue?



Thanks for all.





Gary



The compressor is passenger side below rear door between sill and chassis rail.

I would strongly suggest Llams - yes it will solve clearance issues and is fully accessible from drivers seat with the benefit of on-the-fly selection...

On outback trips I use it extensively, normal height on fast sections and +30 on rough but moderately quick then up to +50 for the fun stuff.

Without the +30 on the Maralinga run I would have done damage on the fast undulating surface.

[LRD414]

I will have a good look in the morning, make sure that is not physical damage.

So what are the symptoms/problem that make you concerned about the compressor? The 50km/h message and other errors were due to the wrong size wheel fitted as Graeme described. Is there something else happening?

Scott

[DIS4]

I often have the suspension vibration noise, I presumed it is from compressor.

[LRD414]

I often have the suspension vibration noise, I presumed it is from compressor.

Ok, so the noise is the same as before the incident with driving the small wheel?

If so, it could be the normal noise of the compressor working. You can hear it when it's running.

Scott

[DIS4]

Ok, so the noise is the same as before the incident with driving the small wheel?

If so, it could be the normal noise of the compressor working. You can hear it when it's running.

Scott

The noise is louder than I went to the border track, I will see if any damage had been done during day light. Normal raise the height is very smooth.

Gary

[Graeme]

The lower cover might be filled with sand or dirt so require a clean-out.

[LRD414]

Which wheel did you change? Was it passenger side rear? Perhaps you accidentally placed the jack on the compressor cover and damaged it.

The compressor is close to the chassis rail and people have damaged it during jacking.

Scott

[Babs]

Breaker Breaker!

Graeme are you the supplier of Llams?
I noticed you commented in an earlier reply the Llams that you produce? Cheers.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Graeme]

Yes I build the kits which can be purchased either from resellers/workshops such as Davis Performance or directly from me. Please PM me if further details are required.

[Graeme]

The compressor is close to the chassis rail and people have damaged it during jacking.The most likely cause and possibly the reason the warning changed from amber to red when subsequently trying to adjust height.

[LRD414]

The most likely cause and possibly the reason the warning changed from amber to red when subsequently trying to adjust height.
It's either that or an escalation of the wrong diameter driving situation.

Gary said this earlier (emphasis mine):

.... that trigger the initial warning, such as ABS, DSC, Parking in yellow.
I got suspension light in red after I left border track and drove on highway
..... warned me the maximum speed to 50k, suspension lower as well.

And maybe this point suggests nothing wrong with compressor:

Normal raise the height is very smooth.

But on the other hand if it's louder ?

The noise is louder than I went to the border track

Hard to know without more info and an inspection.

Cheers,
Scott

[DIS4]

It's either that or an escalation of the wrong diameter driving situation.

Gary said this earlier (emphasis mine):


And maybe this point suggests nothing wrong with compressor:


But on the other hand if it's louder ?


Hard to know without more info and an inspection.

Cheers,
Scott

Scott, the off-road height raised and compressor start pumping, the noise is ok. However, the compressor continue to work without touch the height selection. I ha a quick look the cover and wire connected and No sign of physical damage, will inspect more under cover. FYI, the wheel changed is on the right front driver side, shouldn't cause the damage on jacking. Will it possible the leak from suspension ? It might make compressor working so often without touch the height control.

Cheers,

Gary

[DIS4]

took off the cover, no apprent damage. however, compressor vibration so loud and become so noticeable. I never felt that much noise, but it is better now when I cleared the mud and tight up nuts. I will see after test drive.

Cheers

[scarry]

took off the cover, no apprent damage. however, compressor vibration so loud and become so noticeable. I never felt that much noise, but it is better now when I cleared the mud and tight up nuts. I will see after test drive.

Cheers

The air compresser on mine is pretty quiet,what i would do is compare the noise of yours to another D4.

Doing this will give you a good idea if the noise of yours is normal.

[LRD414]

took off the cover, no apprent damage. however, compressor vibration so loud and become so noticeable. I never felt that much noise, but it is better now when I cleared the mud and tight up nuts. I will see after test drive.

The compressor will typically run for a couple of minutes after a height change. You should only be concerned if it's still running constantly after say 5 minutes.

Regarding noise, it is much louder with the cover off because it has a sound deadening liner inside the cover. Your comment about mud is interesting and may be the cause of excessive or extra noise, especially if it was built up around the feet of the compressor.

Not sure which nuts you tightened but that could have been a noise source too.

Do you have any more dash errors or lights, assuming you now have all wheels the same diameter?

Changing the right side front wheel should have zero effect on the suspension or compressor.

Scott

[Graeme]

However, the compressor continue to work without touch the height selection.The compressor continues to run to get the reservoir back up to pressure after having finished raising the vehicle. Whilst it has enough pressure, the reservoir gets used for small height adjustments to prevent the compressor from having to run too frequently.

[DIS4]

took off the cover, no apprent damage. however, compressor vibration so loud and become so noticeable. I never felt that much noise, but it is better now when I cleared the mud and tight up nuts. I will see after test drive.

Cheers

[DIS4]

It is much better now, level of noise become unnoticed. I presumed the mud filled up inside the cover and no space to tolerate the vibration. I did not think about it when I played with mud few times before, a lesson to learn.

I am still hesitate to get GOE rims, I hope cooper tyre can keep me going further on cape York trip, but LLAMS definitely on the list. I should order from David's performance and give a go on DIY if it is not complicated, or get an auto electrician to fit it. Compressor guard and fuel tank guard are also on the list since I had a lesson today.

By the how many inch will it be when goes emergency height.

Thanks for all input, a great forum to guide me through trouble shooting.
:)

[LRD414]

Ok so now we know what happened with the errors (wrong diameter) and the compressor (mud), what about the tyres? What happened to get a flat and was there any other tyre problems?

Scott

[DIS4]

Ok so now we know what happened with the errors (wrong diameter) and the compressor (mud), what about the tyres? What happened to get a flat and was there any other tyre problems?

Scott

I had a finger hole on the border of side wall when I had been very careful to avoid the Rock and tree roots. However, we were about finish the border track and speed up to 50-60k, that is when it happen. I only dropped the front types to 25 psi, back to 30 psi while most of others drop to 15psi. I was surprise how road tyre handle with track on Colorado, extra side wall must help.

[LRD414]

Gary, sounds like your tyres handled things well but you got unlucky with a sidewall puncture.
This could still happen the same even if you have Llams and/or GOE 18" wheels.
If you fit LT tyres to the GOE wheels the risk of sidewall puncture is reduced but it can still happen.

Other than the flat tyre, you mentioned clearance issues and this is why you are considering Llams.
Did you ground on the track? Or want/need to go faster than the 50km/h offroad height limit?

The maximum Llams offset height will give you an extra 50mm above factory offroad height, which is virtually the same as emergency offroad height.
Tombie posted a good summary here earlier on using Llams when wanting to travel faster than 50km/h.

I do have and recommend Llams but you need to understand where and how it helps.
And it is way more important to have 5 wheels with the same size tyres and ideally an extra 6th tyre for your Cape trip.

Cheers,
Scott

[LandyAndy]

It is much better now, level of noise become unnoticed. I presumed the mud filled up inside the cover and no space to tolerate the vibration. I did not think about it when I played with mud few times before, a lesson to learn.

I am still hesitate to get GOE rims, I hope cooper tyre can keep me going further on cape York trip, but LLAMS definitely on the list. I should order from David's performance and give a go on DIY if it is not complicated, or get an auto electrician to fit it. Compressor guard and fuel tank guard are also on the list since I had a lesson today.

By the how many inch will it be when goes emergency height.

Thanks for all input, a great forum to guide me through trouble shooting.
:)

Contact member Greame on here,he makes the Llams kits and will be able to sell you one direct.He will be able to tell you how easy they are to fit,you can decide then if you need an auto ellecy;);););)
Andrew

[DIS4]

Gary, sounds like your tyres handled things well but you got unlucky with a sidewall puncture.
This could still happen the same even if you have Llams and/or GOE 18" wheels.
If you fit LT tyres to the GOE wheels the risk of sidewall puncture is reduced but it can still happen.

Other than the flat tyre, you mentioned clearance issues and this is why you are considering Llams.
Did you ground on the track? Or want/need to go faster than the 50km/h offroad height limit?

The maximum Llams offset height will give you an extra 50mm above factory offroad height, which is virtually the same as emergency offroad height.
Tombie posted a good summary here earlier on using Llams when wanting to travel faster than 50km/h.

I do have and recommend Llams but you need to understand where and how it helps.
And it is way more important to have 5 wheels with the same size tyres and ideally an extra 6th tyre for your Cape trip.

Cheers,
Scott

I had been bogged at few sand dunes on Tommie and patrols passed them easily, wonder if the clearance is main factor as few without exra lift. I contacted Graeme and he wanted me order by installer to save cost, I would not class myself real handyman. However, we all learn from somewhere.

Cheers,

Gary

[Tombie]

Gary

Llams is almost all plug and play..
One hole for mounting the controller and the rest is a simple plug in affair (plus a simple calibration which is very easy).

[LRD414]

....wonder if the clearance is main factor as few without exra lift....
Could also have been tyre pressure, I think you said 30psi rear Gary?


Llams is almost all plug and play..
One hole for mounting the controller and the rest is a simple plug in affair (plus a simple calibration which is very easy).
Agree with this, plus perhaps someone with Llams in Melbourne could help you for beer money, it doesn't take too long.
Also, the calibration is no longer required.

Cheers,
Scott

[DIS4]

Gary

Llams is almost all plug and play..
One hole for mounting the controller and the rest is a simple plug in affair (plus a simple calibration which is very easy).

Thanks, I will definitely want to have a go. What happen if the dealer find out on next service? I assumed they could not complaint if it doesn't cause any warranty issues.

Does anyone using Allied wheel on 20" rim? I think that I should get two spares on rim if going to cape York.

[DIS4]

Take your time on the border track - no need to race along - plenty to look at...

Pick your lines and you should be fine.

It's a great drive.

Thanks, I always remember what your say until we almost leave the track. Speed will play a big part as I didn't see where is rock coming from until I heard a loud bang.

Another question if I use allied wheel as spare, will it be a problem in term of weight and other specification might different from LR original wheels?

Gary

[Tombie]

Just check their rating. If it's 980kg or higher

[DI5CO]

I also did the border track over the weekend. I have the std wheels/tyres. I ran 25psi for the trip. I only got stuck once on one of the larger dunes. It just basically stopped and dug itself a hole lol. I was in high range and sand mode but wasn't giving it much. I can't remember if I had dsc off or not. Anyway I reversed back, put it in low made sure dsc was off and gave it a bit more curry and made it up no problem. Because it was so wet, the dunes were much easier than when I did it last time in my D2 which was much dryer and sand was way softer, which was disappointing as I wanted to see how the thing would go!
The other issue I had was on some of the wider dirt roads before the track, while only doing 20-30ks, the car went completely sideways on 3 separate occasions as the road tyres were like slicks![emoji51]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/260.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/261.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/262.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/263.jpg

[Tombie]

And that was your problem! You needed Low Range not high....

The vehicle cut in the DSC and stopped you [emoji6]

[DI5CO]

Yep, it was the only part I needed low!
Anyway it was the 2nd time I had taken it off road so was happy to get stuck and learn how to drive the new car. I was actually hoping to get stuck more and see how the different settings work or not work but we were running short of time.

[DIS4]

I also did the border track over the weekend. I have the std wheels/tyres. I ran 25psi for the trip. I only got stuck once on one of the larger dunes. It just basically stopped and dug itself a hole lol. I was in high range and sand mode but wasn't giving it much. I can't remember if I had dsc off or not. Anyway I reversed back, put it in low made sure dsc was off and gave it a bit more curry and made it up no problem. Because it was so wet, the dunes were much easier than when I did it last time in my D2 which was much dryer and sand was way softer, which was disappointing as I wanted to see how the thing would go!
The other issue I had was on some of the wider dirt roads before the track, while only doing 20-30ks, the car went completely sideways on 3 separate occasions as the road tyres were like slicks![emoji51]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/260.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/261.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/262.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/263.jpg


I used high range most of time but few sand dunes on low range, very much enjoy the track as preparation to Simpson. However, low profile tyre still make me on high altert all the time until we almost leave the track. Speed and bad luck were the main reason for the flat tyre. I also found the sand terrain didn't work the same, had to switch off all the time. I occasionally forgot to switch off DSC while restart the engine.

[BobD]

I also found the sand terrain didn't work the same, had to switch off all the time. I occasionally forgot to switch off DSC while restart the engine.


What do you mean by the above. What was the problem with "sand terrain", apart from giving you much better throttle response and using a bit more fuel? If I forget to turn sand terrain mode on after I have turned it off for any reason in sand I think my car is broken for a while because it feels like it is struggling after you are used to sand terrain mode.

[SBD4]

What do you mean by the above. What was the problem with "sand terrain", apart from giving you much better throttle response and using a bit more fuel? If I forget to turn sand terrain mode on after I have turned it off for any reason in sand I think my car is broken for a while because it feels like it is struggling after you are used to sand terrain mode.
..and consequently also known as "drag race mode":cool:

[Babs]

Bump

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Tombie]

You keep bumping all over the place you'll dent something.

[Babs]

You keep bumping all over the place you'll dent something.

Ha ha ha :) I use the forumrunner app and I have to search through heaps of threads when I finally start reading one of the posts it either crashes or I put my phone down for whatever reason and then I have to start all over again.

I was subscribed to the threads but unless I actually post on it it won't show up in my subscribed list, so I can't access it quickly, if that all makes sense. Hence my bump :p

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[LRD414]

Ha ha ha :) I use the forumrunner app and I have to search through heaps of threads when I finally start reading one of the posts it either crashes or I put my phone down for whatever reason and then I have to start all over again.
I was subscribed to the threads but unless I actually post on it it won't show up in my subscribed list, so I can't access it quickly, if that all makes sense. Hence my bump :p
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
That all sounds complicated. Have you tried Tapatalk?
It has options for Subscribed and Participated thread groupings, as well as directly into any sub-forum (eg D3/D4).
So no need to post if subscribed to threads of interest.
There's also a Timeline grouping that just shows whole forum chronologically.
Sounds much better than what you're wrestling with there.

Cheers,
Scott

[Babs]

That all sounds complicated. Have you tried Tapatalk? It has options for Subscribed and Participated thread groupings, as well as directly into any sub-forum (eg D3/D4). So no need to post if subscribed to threads of interest. There's also a Timeline grouping that just shows whole forum chronologically. Sounds much better than what you're wrestling with there. Cheers, Scott

Scott I did try tapatalk and I wanted to crush my phone, it was really painful, everything is do scattered, I didn't have any success with it.

Forumrunner is much simpler, this was the first obstacle I had to overcome, once being subscribe to a thread it will notify me of any new activity, the problem was the threads I bumped hadn't had any recent activity.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Grentarc]

Scott I did try tapatalk and I wanted to crush my phone, it was really painful, everything is do scattered, I didn't have any success with it.

Forumrunner is much simpler, this was the first obstacle I had to overcome, once being subscribe to a thread it will notify me of any new activity, the problem was the threads I bumped hadn't had any recent activity.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

I am guessing there is no AULRO app for iPhone? It's fantastic on my Android ;)

[LRD414]

I am guessing there is no AULRO app for iPhone? It's fantastic on my Android ;)
I think it's a customised version of Tapatalk.
And Babs, it has improved in the last 6-9 months

[Grentarc]

I think it's a customised version of Tapatalk.
And Babs, it has improved in the last 6-9 months

Yes, but I think it is much easier to use for AULRO than Tapatalk, and I have used Tapatalk as a forum administrator and user for many years. The search function of this app is a different story though.

[Babs]

Yeah it's all working fine on my iPhone it was just that little hurdle that my bumps solved, now they are in my subscribed list.
The problem was I had subscribed to thread but it won't move over to my subscribed list unless there was new activity, and no one had posted on those particular threads for a while.

Tapatalk I have for my bow hunting forum and since they changed it I don't even enjoy going on there. There is no menus or sub menus everything just shows up even the stuff I don't want to see. It's a waste of time, sometimes I just want to go to a particular topic and I can't I have to sort through crap.

Forumrunner is still the best easiest to use, a bit like apple and android or windows phone, forum runner is the apple, simple layout easy to use. Tapatalk is the android Windows phone everything is scattered difficult to use. MO :D

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Chops]

Yep, it was the only part I needed low!
Anyway it was the 2nd time I had taken it off road so was happy to get stuck and learn how to drive the new car. I was actually hoping to get stuck more and see how the different settings work or not work but we were running short of time.
You could always get involved with a GOE course, of which one is coming to Melb soon ( ;) I'm going on one). There seems to be quite a good following on here for these courses, so it might be worthwhile for you to invest in one if you want to learn about the car some more.
Myself being old school and not having any knowledge of the electrics of these cars and how it all works, I need this big time :eek: .

[Meken]

You could always get involved with a GOE course, of which one is coming to Melb soon ( ;) I'm going on one). There seems to be quite a good following on here for these courses, so it might be worthwhile for you to invest in one if you want to learn about the car some more.
Myself being old school and not having any knowledge of the electrics of these cars and how it all works, I need this big time :eek: .


Absolutely - these cars are nothing like "old school" 4wds - it really pays dividends to do Gordon's courses - you will look at tracks with different eyes - I have much much greater confidence when looking at tracks now

[LandyAndy]

You could always get involved with a GOE course, of which one is coming to Melb soon ( ;) I'm going on one). There seems to be quite a good following on here for these courses, so it might be worthwhile for you to invest in one if you want to learn about the car some more.
Myself being old school and not having any knowledge of the electrics of these cars and how it all works, I need this big time :eek: .

Chops,you will really enjoy Gordon,he has a hell of alot of info in his head and can really get it across.
ENJOY
Andrew

[Meken]

Do the goe course - I'm on 20" ht and did it no worries kept up with the blokes on at's no problem

[LandyAndy]

Gordon was steering a D1 when I first met him on a Harvey trip,he is a madman:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
When you do his theory training,the video he shows has an 80 Series tojo.I was in that Tojo on that trip.The driver is my dearly departed mate Fat Baz,he crashed that tojo not long after,he and his mrs were incinerated in the crash:(:(:(:(:(:(
Andrew

[Chops]

Chops,you will really enjoy Gordon,he has a hell of alot of info in his head and can really get it across.
ENJOY
Andrew

I hope it's Gordon doing the course. Don't know at this point who's in charge, will have an email with info sent soon.

[gghaggis]

Definitely me - I'm training the Vic guys who will be running later courses, but they won't be ready by then!

Ho hum - more kilometres on the Rangie ......

Cheers,

Gordon