EAS Pump on the Way Out??

[Road Stone]

Hi Folks,


Well, I decided to be brave and look at my pump to see what its all about.


Pulled out the spare tyre, gosh nearly broke my back, whipped off the metal cover and there is was.


It looks brand spanking new! No evidence of water ingress at anytime in the wheel well but I don't think it is newish.


Then started the engine and with doors closed except for the tail gate pressed extended mode. Vehicle went up immediately.


I then pressed down, twice, to move to access mode. Vehicle lowered as per spec. I then pressed up once to normal ride height and it went up very slowly but made it! Pump makes a buzzy ticking type sound and I noticed was quite hot.


Am I looking at a worn out pump due for replacement? I occasionally get a code C1A 24 and something about no heat registering.


Cars runs perfectly with no sign of an issue..........at this stage!


Cheers, Jerry

[Graeme]

I don't think that your compressor has a problem, it has simply been asked to do a fair amount of work in a short time. Regular waiting to cool messages or a fault code indicating that the reservoir is taking too long to fill are the signs that need heeding to avoid being left stranded when a compressor finally gives up.

[Road Stone]

Thanks Graeme,


It seems slower than my D3 I used to have.


I'll just keep an eye on it. Was going to buy a repair kit but after much reading it seems they just delay the inevitable.


Cheers, Jerry

[chaybra]

my compressor let go a few months back. being the forward thinker that I am, i pre ordered the compressor kit, sadly it was for the older style and i was left in a bit of a ****ty mood, the one I have is probably similar to yours (hitachi Type). the only failed part in the whole compressor was the pressure regulator valve (could just be called the check valve) that sits under an easily accessible, valve looking large bolt. (see attached)
The small rubber valve that is used simply had a tiny hole thru the center because its not solid. magically tho, i happened to find one sitting in the back of the car when i was packing up (i really have no idea where it came from) and replaced it. Even tho i did, there was no need to remove the compressor from the mounts. Check the valve condition, it could be that simple

Note: it had been slow to raise for several months prior, but had a complete failure and would not build pressure.

[Road Stone]

Hi Chaybra,


Very interesting.


So just before I delve in and pull everything apart and it ends in tears:



The little black rubber plug thing in your picture is the thing that failed?
It can be accessed without removing the pump?
So if I do that, does the car deflate onto the stops?


I feel I have an pump overheating issue. It only takes a couple of tries before the heat warning sign appears on the dash and it tells you to wait until cooled down....may be related I guess and worth a look.


Cheers, Jerry

[Homestar]

99% of the time, a new piston ring is all that is required. They are available off eBay - I've just ordered a kit of this guy - http://bagpipingandy.com

My pump works but is slow and noisy - classic symptoms of a worn piston ring.

If the motor is still spinning in the pump, this kit is the go.

I'll do some before and after timing tests on the suspension and report back. :)

[chaybra]

Unsure if it will drop all wheels, it shouldn't. but prepare for the eventuality that it will. From memory, the black ruber thing can be removed with pump in place and yes it failed "DELIVERY VALVE" is the correct name according to the diagram
As Gav said, a kit is easy as pie to run thru it so I would do that. Also, there are 2 types of compressors, the earlier models used the wabco and later used hitachi, check what you have before ordering.

[Graeme]

the earlier models used the wabco and later used hitachi then a short-lived fitment of AMK to late MY11 and early MY12 before reverting to an Hitachi for the remainder of the L322, then AMK upgrade kits to replace Hitachis some time after the end of the L322 run.

[Road Stone]

then a short-lived fitment of AMK to late MY11 and early MY12 before reverting to an Hitachi for the remainder of the L322, then AMK upgrade kits to replace Hitachis some time after the end of the L322 run.



I have read with the AMK/Dunlop, you require a software update, which makes this not an option for me given where I am.


Thanks Homestar, interested on your conclusions when fitting and look forward to your findings.



Chaybra, thanks again. I have worked out my Hawkeye can resurrect things if it does strange things happen, plus including putting into a maintenance mode. Mine is the same as yours pictured so
I believe mine to be Hitachi. Yes sometimes I can hear it but not every time.


Today for example it worked okay when I tried it a few times. I still suspect the pump is "tired"


Cheers, Jerry