Td5 Auto No Start

[fourteen8]

It happens twice this week. My D2 auto Td5 does not start not even crank. I dont think its the battery. All usually on dash are on, lock and unlock is fine using fob. First one happen on Monday morning going to work. It didnt want to start untill my daugther closed pasennger door and it just started. It happened again last night at train staion car park. Tried to start nothing happened. Lock and unlock still didnt do the trick. Connected nanocom no error showing. Went to BCU and secuirty off and unlock from it after that it started fine. I just replace starter motor few weeks ago before it thing started. Dont know if this related. Anyone any idea whats happening? Or had the same experience? Thanks

[fourteen8]

Got stuck at the train station tonight. Same symptom. Called RACV and started the car while he hit the starter motor with a long steel rod and car started fine.

So it is the starter motor again. I just got this second hand starter motor 2-3 months ago. What causing the starter motor go bad again? Or this second hand starter motor wasnt good anymore?

[alien]

I assume it's not cranking(turning over) from your second post.
Throw a set of contacts and a new plunger in the soliniod of the starter Gus.
They wear with age and are a known failure point.
They get worse if the fuel regulator is leaking onto the starter motor.
Parts from the regular suppier or any auto electrician should have them on the shelf.

[sierrafery]

The lucar connector on the solenoid used to make bad contact cos it's weak so check that first and make sure the main positive lead is well tightened also replace the relay(R2) to rule it out.... as long as you dont hear a loud click it means the solenoid is not engaging so the motor itself might have no issues and it's a feed issue

[Pierre]

See you live out west...

Go see Ingram Ashdown in West Sunshine (Somerville Rd? near Boundary Rd) with the offending starter and get solenoid repair parts kit and fix the thing. Generally just the contacts fried..

Good luck

Pete

[turps]

Mine seemed to have a similar issue earlier this year.
Wouldnt start. But when it did it fired up as normal. I assumed it was the N switch in the auto.
Turned out the terminals on the starter where covered in oil and only just hanging on.
Mechanic cleaned and tightened them up and never missed a beat since.

[BMKal]

Yep - mine did the same thing (shortly after I sold it to my son). Was a manual though, so nothing to do with transmission switch.

Turned out to be caused by leaking fuel regulator as Kyle said. My young bloke is a diesel mechanic - he replaced the fuel regulator and put a kit through the solenoid, and no problems since.

[leond]

My 2000 D2 auto wouldn't start the other week and had previously seen the M and S lights on so thought it was the WXYZ switch.

Pulled the WXYZ switch off, cleaned it and etc then reinstalled it and all was good for about a week.

Wouldn't start again, thought perhaps I cocked up the WXYZ switch so purchased a replacement from wreckers ($220) and confirmed switch open/closed positions as per the manual. The switch was good but car still wouldn't start (dash lights on, no cranking). Battery was tested at garage and it came up ok under load. Ive had the car for 2 years so decided to replace the battery ($220).

Still wouldn't start, lights on dash, no cranking at all.

Confirmed it would crank with keys on by applying power to the signal wire on the starter motor.

Pull the injector harness plug off and there was a little bit of oil on the plug. The harness was replaced about 12 months ago but I didn't silcon in the plug so must be by passing the o-rings. Cleaned plug and socket with brake cleaner and it started!

All good, or so I thought. Travelled 8 hours from home, towing +3 tonne trailer and that night the car wouldn't start. Mucked around with the injector harness plug and managed to get it started.

Called into Landy dealer in Port Lincoln and had a chat to the mechanic. He looked at my key fob and said "the unlock light doesn't look that bright. Suggest you replace the battery.

$4 latter and 2 weeks later, I haven't had a repeat.

Think the oil on the injector harness was a red herring.

Spent $440 when I could have spent $4! Oh well, such is the richness of the being a Landy owner. :-)

Upgraded intercooler and associated silicon hoses are on the way. Should assist with towing +3.0tonne drill rig and gear.

[Entropic]

You've probably already tried this but stick the key in the drivers door and lock then unlock 3 times.

It resets the immobiliser.

After getting some water in the cabin (leaking windscreen) I had similar issues to the ones you described and the above reset did the trick for me.

Plus it's free.

[sierrafery]

You've probably already tried this but stick the key in the drivers door and lock then unlock 3 times.

It resets the immobiliser.

After getting some water in the cabin (leaking windscreen) I had similar issues to the ones you described and the above reset did the trick for me.

Plus it's free.
Unfortunately there's no such "reset" procedure whatsoever, it has no technical logic as long as you know how the D2's immobiliser system was conceived and built....IMO it was only a coincidence, it would have "reset" the immobiliser(if it was really immobilised) even with a simple lock/unlock with the fob in the hand cos it was only to wake up the BCU which goes into sleep mode from time to time... though once unlocked with the fob it's not immobilised unless you let it untouched 5 minutes after that but even then it must start with the original key

[fourteen8]

Mine turned out to be the lucar connector was loose. Cheked on the weekend, squeze the connector with plier and so far so good.

[Pierre]

Easy is good!!

Pete:)

[leond]

My 2000 D2 auto wouldn't start the other week and had previously seen the M and S lights on so thought it was the WXYZ switch.

Pulled the WXYZ switch off, cleaned it and etc then reinstalled it and all was good for about a week.

Wouldn't start again, thought perhaps I cocked up the WXYZ switch so purchased a replacement from wreckers ($220) and confirmed switch open/closed positions as per the manual. The switch was good but car still wouldn't start (dash lights on, no cranking). Battery was tested at garage and it came up ok under load. Ive had the car for 2 years so decided to replace the battery ($220).

Still wouldn't start, lights on dash, no cranking at all.

Confirmed it would crank with keys on by applying power to the signal wire on the starter motor.

Pull the injector harness plug off and there was a little bit of oil on the plug. The harness was replaced about 12 months ago but I didn't silcon in the plug so must be by passing the o-rings. Cleaned plug and socket with brake cleaner and it started!

All good, or so I thought. Travelled 8 hours from home, towing +3 tonne trailer and that night the car wouldn't start. Mucked around with the injector harness plug and managed to get it started.

Called into Landy dealer in Port Lincoln and had a chat to the mechanic. He looked at my key fob and said "the unlock light doesn't look that bright. Suggest you replace the battery.

$4 latter and 2 weeks later, I haven't had a repeat.

Think the oil on the injector harness was a red herring.

Spent $440 when I could have spent $4! Oh well, such is the richness of the being a Landy owner. :-)

Upgraded intercooler and associated silicon hoses are on the way. Should assist with towing +3.0tonne drill rig and gear.





So I thought Id solved the issue of non-starting by changing the battery in the key fob. . . . until Friday. After parking directly outside of caf?, taking the bride for afternoon tea, saddled up in the Landy (upgraded intercooler, silicon hoses freshly installed and boost wound up) and Charles failed to start.
After moving from Park > Neutral visa-versa no success. Locked the car (with us both in it) and repeated numerous times, still didn't start.
Somewhat embarrassed, pulled bonnet, checked out a few things. Left the ignition on then slide under the car and bridged the signal wire on the starter motor solenoid to the +ve of the starter. Charles came to life.
Today it happened again so I made up a test lamp, two lengths of insulated wire with a 12v globe soldered in the middle.
Removed the signal wire from the starter motor, plugged in test wire, earthed the other end then turned the key to the crank position. The globe didn't illuminate however noted that the solenoid signal wire psuh on female terminal had lost its "spring", was loose and covered in light oil and grit from leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator (waiting for parts to arrive).
The terminal was replaced, test harness fitted and the globe lit. Wooohoo, success.
Refitted signal wire and Charles started.
So, looks like I wasted $4 when I could have spent $0.18 ($2.50 for 14 female terminals).
I will say it again "Oh well, such is the richness of the being a Landy owner. :-)"