D4 3.0L Timing Belt - tensioner

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Hi

I've searched a number of threads on here, as my D4 is due a timing belt change... I want to make sure I get everything done that needs doing...!

The discussion around changing the timing belt tensioner (oil pump casing?) seems to be restricted to D3's (or at least they're the only ones posting!).

My D4 is 09/2009 build, first registered 01/2010 (MY10). Does anyone know if the D4's had the upgraded tensioner/casing installed???

Thanks.

Rob

[Ean Austral]

From what I read on the UK site they seem to think after Vin range 9A510122 there has been no reported failures and the part prior to this Vin was superseded.


Guess with that being a D3 Vin then you should be ok.




Cheers Ean

[LRD414]

This is the Disco3 thread with a lot of info about MYs and VINs ....
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Cam belt tensioner mount failure survey (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic80001.html)
Nothing about issues with the 3.0L, eg
"Part number LR013487 9a510122 on, inc 3.0. seems like the solution to 7a/8a/9a models"

Cheers,
Scott

[sheerluck]

The uprated part was definitely installed on all 3.0. Never heard of issues relating to the tensioner mount/oil pump casing on a 3.0

[Graeme]

The 3.0's tensioner bracket is not problematic but the crankshaft oil seal is. The recess for the oil seal is too smooth so the seal is prone to moving out whereby suddenly there's a big mess of oil going everywhere. The recess was revised to not be so smooth. Either replace the seal but use an adhesive on the new seal or fit an updated cover. Either way the pulley has to be removed so a new crankshaft bolt is required.

[Grentarc]

The 3.0's tensioner bracket is not problematic but the crankshaft oil seal is. The recess for the oil seal is too smooth so the seal is prone to moving out whereby suddenly there's a big mess of oil going everywhere. The recess was revised to not be so smooth. Either replace the seal but use an adhesive on the new seal or fit an updated cover. Either way the pulley has to be removed so a new crankshaft bolt is required.

We discovered when doing my timing belts that my front crank seal had been weeping. We had already decided to replace the seal, which was about $18 delivered from the nearest LR dealer - unfortunately we didn't realise that a new bolt was also required, and paid an arm and a leg for one at the local Ford dealer.

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Thanks for the responses... :BigThumb:

So what should I be getting done when the timing belt is changed?

Based on what I've read here (and other posts):
Timing belt
HPFP belt
Serpentine belt
Crankshaft seal - is this a case of "if it aint broke, don't fix it"?

Is that correct, or have I missed anything?

Thanks.

Rob

[sheerluck]

If it was me, I'd leave the crank seal alone. If there is no sign of any weeping, leave it alone.

[Graeme]

Oil can be seeping but may not be seen until the cam-belt cover is removed. Once oil works its way up the sides of the seal by running up the ridges around the outside face of the seal itself there's nothing much to hold it in.

There's quite a lot of work to change the cam-belts on the 3.0 compared with the 2.7 due to the extra radiator plumbing so do you really want to do it/have it done all again? If the seal pops without being noticed then the engine will be destroyed when the oil is gone.

[Disco W.A]

Hi

I've searched a number of threads on here, as my D4 is due a timing belt change... I want to make sure I get everything done that needs doing...!

The discussion around changing the timing belt tensioner (oil pump casing?) seems to be restricted to D3's (or at least they're the only ones posting!).

My D4 is 09/2009 build, first registered 01/2010 (MY10). Does anyone know if the D4's had the upgraded tensioner/casing installed???

Thanks.

Rob



my 9/2009 built D4 with 2.7 litre diesel had the upgraded oil pump fitted, I did the timing belt 2 months ago and did not change the oil pump