Bell Auto Services Hi-flow Intercooler. Any comments or reviews?

[clive22]

Hi

I have a BAS 150 autobiography tune in my Puma 130. Very happy with it and the software.

Noticed they now have a new in house designed & built intercooler. Heat, in high summer, at least has been on my mind with this tune. Keeping temps down sounds is a real good idea especially with a small diesel engine pushing a laden 130 along.

This new intercooler looks the goods and sounds easier to fit than the Allisport one which sounded a bit hard to fit and had a few issues with hose clamps according to a few threads on here.

Interested in other people opinions.


http://bellautoservices.co.uk/
Clive

[newhue]

well...... I have an Alisport but it will be the same. I was advised by Dave? at BAS its been a while; before he was doing them for himself that an intercooler would be better than an exhaust. I put it in before the tune and could tell no difference. And after the tune still could tell no difference. Perhaps a dyno can tell the difference but very hard through the seat of your pants.
All I go on is the motor is getting as good as it can. Is it worth $800, I don't think so. Would I do it again, probably not.

But rest assured there will be plenty who disagree, so that all I will say.

[Pickles2]

I am no "Guru" on this subject, but I'm interested as I may get a tune myself one day.
I've seen the new BAS intercooler article on Def 2, & it looks pretty good, it guarantees O.E. fitting (original brackets/mounting points) capability with A/C & Non A/C vehicles, & also has "cutouts" in the tanks to allow for hoses.
The intercooler will not necessarily provide any increase in performance or power.
What I'm told is that a good intercooler will provide lower inlet air temperatures, which could be particularly important for a hard working tuned Puma engine on a hot Aussie day.
So, IMHO, if ya've got a tune, an intercooler is going to provide a healthier environment for your engine, but not necessarily provide any noticeable increase in power.
Pickles.

[clive22]

Hi

That how I understand it to. It drops intake air temps and so engine combustion temps. You can use this two ways, leave the fuel delivery stock and probably enjoy increased reliability...this can be disappointing from a value for money sense..as it all a bit intangible.

Or you can boost the fuel and benefit from increased horsepower with less or without overheating problems.

I was put off the by the fitting problems with the Spoilsport so interested to see if anyone has fitted this up, and how it all went, etc. Maybe not yet afetr all it's early days for a new product.

Clive

[tact]

So I bought the BAS 150AB tune first. Write ups and recommendations stated there is no need for an uprated intercooler for this.

The BAS device let's you see live values such as ambient air temp and air temp after intercooler.

With the 150AB tune that seemed fine. Air temp after intercooler was not too far above ambient air temp, maybe 10-20C higher at worst.

Later I bought the upgrade to 170AB tune and ordered the larger (allisport) intercooler as per recommendation. The new tune arrived well before the intercooler. I had to play! Couldn't wait for the intercooler. But was a bit clever about how I played. :twisted:

Herein lies the difference made by the bigger intercooler:
- with stock tune, or the 150AB tune, the stock intercooler was ok: Engine breathing air about 10-20C above ambient (30C) at the most, and only when really hammering it over extended distances.

- with 170AB tune & stock intercooler: just a few seconds of full throttle (LITERALLY!) would see the temp after intercooler surge high above ambient. Like 60C or more above!

- any tune (stock, 150AB, or 170AB ) with the larger allisport intercooler fitted: Air temp after intercooler is either at, or no more than 1-2C above, ambient temp no matter how hard or how long you are hammering.

So that might bear up what others wrote. Uprating the intercooler on stock or 150AB tunes may not result in any increase in performance detectable by a bum dyno.

Reduced intake temps make for reduced EGT and that's a good thing. Perhaps little difference with stock tune. Perhaps making the difference between a functional engine and a damaged engine at higher states of tune.

[1nando]

I would recomend that if your doing a remap/tune, that a bigger cooler and exhaust are a must. The cooler will provide cooler inlet temps and help reduce egts and provide better power and torque.
No point trying to get more air into the engine if you cant force out the hot exhaust gases quickly enough though so i recomend doing the following to the exhaust:
a decat and straight pipe replacing the centre muffler. The little muffler at the back of the exhaut is up to you, leave it or remove it!

[Tombie]

If you check the flow on a 2.2 it doesn't take much to make it breathe (exhaust) - the pipe is well over the diameter needed for the engine...

Just free it up...

[1nando]

Thats what i was implying. Keep the same diameter just do a decat and remove the centre silencer/muffler and rear if you choose leaving a straight through exhaust

[Tombie]

Even the Cat isn't a huge restriction given its physical size!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/246.jpg

Taking it out did marginally improve spool up.
They are a bastard to get out though!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/247.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/248.jpg

[Pickles2]

I wouldn't even touch the exhaust.
Very minimal, if any, gains to be made there, as demonstrated by some of our friends on Def2 in the Uk, who have some pretty radical 170/180kw engines, but the exhaust is,.....standard.
I know, because this is where most of my expertise (if any) is, that on V8s, yes, a free flowing, big bore exhaust is important, particularly up in the rev range.
However, when ya talking Puma, compared to the rpm range of those V8s, Japmulti valve turbos etc, the Puma rarely gets above idle,....I mean it's basically all over by 4000rpm,....so I say, exhaust is not really important....it ain't gonna make a big difference.
Pickles.

[Tombie]

It does. A noticeable one... And makes it much more drive able.

[1nando]

I wouldn't even touch the exhaust.
Very minimal, if any, gains to be made there, as demonstrated by some of our friends on Def2 in the Uk, who have some pretty radical 170/180kw engines, but the exhaust is,.....standard.
I know, because this is where most of my expertise (if any) is, that on V8s, yes, a free flowing, big bore exhaust is important, particularly up in the rev range.
However, when ya talking Puma, compared to the rpm range of those V8s, Japmulti valve turbos etc, the Puma rarely gets above idle,....I mean it's basically all over by 4000rpm,....so I say, exhaust is not really important....it ain't gonna make a big difference.
Pickles.

Pickles, mate i disagree. The following opinion based on my research and experience is as follows in engines that are TUNED beyond factory spec.

There are many benefits to improving exhaust flow:
-better low down power and torque
- better fuel economy
- lower engine egts. Heat is the biggest silent engine killer

The back pressure myths have been completely busted in diesel engines. Diesels do not need any back pressure in the exhaust and any back pressure post turdo is considered to be a hindrance to power and torque. The puma is no different to any other diesel engine. In fact the bowler 90's run 3 inch exhauts (go on YouTube and try find a clip that highlights the exhaust note and you will hear that they are a free flowing exhaust).

Couriers will often remove catalytic converts to improve economy and engine longevity, any decent exhaut shop will tell you this fact.

I'm not saying a puma owner should spend money getting a 3 inch exhaust. Im saying that they should retain the standard diameter, remove the cat, block the egr and run a striaght pipe instead of the centre muffler

[Tombie]

Close... Diesel exhausts must be matched to turbo and inlet...

Too big an exhaust and too small an inlet and turbo overspeed becomes a high potential.


Any decent exhaust shop will supply what you need not sell drain pipes for small engines.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Diesels do not need any back pressure in the exhaust and any back pressure post turdo is considered to be a hindrance to power and torque.

Heh. He said turdo.

I'm watching this. Interesting tech talk.

[tact]

Have seen comment from people who should be pretty authoritative, like Pete Bell, urging caution about exhaust mods on TDCis to avoid "turdo" overspeed.

Thats the extent of any knowledge I have on the topic.... pretty bare cupboard.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I'm no einstein, and most of my 'go fast' knowledge is in the petrol camp, but my basic understanding of the engine as an 'air pump' stands true. You want to get more out of it (power) you need to put more in. If there is a flow restriction, you either can't get enough air in, or exhaust out, and power suffers. The biggest thing with performance tuning (the mechanical or controls side) is working out what is the limiting factor, and improving it enough to get the results. The old days of engine shopping via a parts book and choosing the thing with the biggest number or the most flames on it is over- engine tech has come a long way and I always try to put my faith in the gurus before thinking that I, as a mere mortal, know more than the 500 engineers and other great minds who built the thing before me. So if someone has done the calculations and it checks out, they are probably on a good thing.

Intercooler design is very interesting. Once again, my simple minded understanding needs to be taken on face value, but intercooler heat transfer is one side of the equation, but pressure drop across the core, end tank volume and design, tube/fin/turbulator density and thickness of the core all need to walk a balancing line between performance and true power gain. Likewise the ability of the IC to hold heat and dissipate it quickly is another concern. It's a heat sink as much as it is a heat transfer device. Hold heat during high boost periods and high IAT's then get rid of it when off throttle.

[clive22]

Hi

I'm not keen on exhaust mods, irrespective of their effectiveness, which seems to favour the not too much.

Mine is a family tourer, that I want legal and for long distance desert touring the last thing i want is a noisy exhaust droning all day. Don't want unwanted attention or defect notices either. For day to day use the BAS tunes either 150hp or 170 hp seems preferable.

Fair enough if you want up a weekend toy, go the noise, and I have a V8 County for just that.

Seems like no one has ordered these new BAS inter-coolers, i might be the first, on here anyway to place an order.

Clive

[Tombie]

Funny!! And presumption at its highest.

The system I showed above - Decat, 2.5" Straight through box and rear resonator kept has Zero Drone, no noticeable exhaust note over stock at any rpm point, and has a notable improvement in throttle response and drive ability.

Good system design is not a compromise.

And don't assume that others haven't already ordered said IC [emoji41]

[strangy]

Pickles, mate i disagree. The following opinion based on my research and experience is as follows in engines that are TUNED beyond factory spec...........


- lower engine egts. Heat is the biggest silent engine killer............
EGT's do kill engines quickly and many are misled as to what they are looking at.
Seems to be the popular belief that bigger exhausts = lower EGT's.

EGT's are a direct function of the combustion process ie ECU Tune.
Specifically fuel and air will determine your EGT not the size of your exhaust.

Typically larger exhaust provides more volume for exhaust gases to exit and expand therfore cooler temps at the probe only, not in the combustion chamber where the EGT is generated.
Folks are seeing probe manipulation not actual gas temp in combustion chamber changes.

While faster spool for a turbo may see a better initial or intermediate air flow/pressure for a corresponding rev range, which may give few degress cooler momentarily, it is generally a performance benefit not an EGT reduction. Sustained measurable reductions in EGT from exhaust size increse is probe manipulation only.

[strangy]

Funny!! And presumption at its highest.

The system I showed above - Decat, 2.5" Straight through box and rear resonator kept has Zero Drone, no noticeable exhaust note over stock at any rpm point, and has a notable improvement in throttle response and drive ability.

Good system design is not a compromise.

And don't assume that others haven't already ordered said IC [emoji41]
Saved me asking if removing the centre muffler on the 130 would create drone or undue noise. Ta

[1nando]

EGT's do kill engines quickly and many are misled as to what they are looking at.
Seems to be the popular belief that bigger exhausts = lower EGT's.

EGT's are a direct function of the combustion process ie ECU Tune.
Specifically fuel and air will determine your EGT not the size of your exhaust.

Typically larger exhaust provides more volume for exhaust gases to exit and expand therfore cooler temps at the probe only, not in the combustion chamber where the EGT is generated.
Folks are seeing probe manipulation not actual gas temp in combustion chamber changes.

While faster spool for a turbo may see a better initial or intermediate air flow/pressure for a corresponding rev range, which may give few degress cooler momentarily, it is generally a performance benefit not an EGT reduction. Sustained measurable reductions in EGT from exhaust size increse is probe manipulation only.

I agree with your point regarding combustion temps however it holds true that if you cant get rid of the hot exhaust gases quickly and efficiently that egts in the engine stay high. The hotter the exhaut gases trying to escape the exhaust the hotter the turbo. The hotter the turbo the hotter the inlet temps and the vicious Circle continues. I have seen this on my s13 drag car both on the dyno and the track.
Many on here with remaps report travelling up long hills or towing in higher gears has lead their vehicles into "limp mode". Not all of these situations but a lot of them could be avoided by improving the puma exhaust flow as Tombie and i have pointed out. We are not saying 3 inch straight through exhaust, just minor changes that can work with your remap and intercooler upgrade to provide a better drivable experience.

[strangy]

I agree with your point regarding combustion temps however it holds true that if you cant get rid of the hot exhaust gases quickly and efficiently that egts in the engine stay high. The hotter the exhaut gases trying to escape the exhaust the hotter the turbo. The hotter the turbo the hotter the inlet temps and the vicious Circle continues. I have seen this on my s13 drag car both on the dyno and the track. Many on here with remaps report travelling up long hills or towing in higher gears has lead their vehicles into "limp mode". Not all of these situations but a lot of them could be avoided by improving the puma exhaust flow as Tombie and i have pointed out. We are not saying 3 inch straight through exhaust, just minor changes that can work with your remap and intercooler upgrade to provide a better drivable experience.
Do you disagree with the claimed benefits of ceramic coatings and turbo blankets?
Remove the exhaust and actual EGT remains the same.
Pretty well agreed across the board the Puma exhaust is up to the task and removing restrictions will improve a turbo performance etc however actual EGT reduction isnt one of them
variations in ambient temperatures have a greater affect on EGT than exhaust mods.
As in my other post Im modifying my exhaust for some improvement. It wont change my actual EGT.

[Pickles2]

Have seen comment from people who should be pretty authoritative, like Pete Bell, urging caution about exhaust mods on TDCis to avoid "turdo" overspeed.

Thats the extent of any knowledge I have on the topic.... pretty bare cupboard.
Exactly, there's plenty in the UK that don't worry about exhaust, even with 170+KW.
Pickles.

[1nando]

Do you disagree with the claimed benefits of ceramic coatings and turbo blankets?
Remove the exhaust and actual EGT remains the same.
Pretty well agreed across the board the Puma exhaust is up to the task and removing restrictions will improve a turbo performance etc however actual EGT reduction isnt one of them
variations in ambient temperatures have a greater affect on EGT than exhaust mods.
As in my other post Im modifying my exhaust for some improvement. It wont change my actual EGT.

If the exhaust on the puma is "up to the task" why do all bowler tuned defenders run 3 inch exhausts?
Mate ive had a turbo glowing red on a sr20det making 430 rear wheel hp on a dyno crack the manifold simply because the after market exhaust i had on was to restrictive. Once i put a staright through 3 inch exhaust it pretty much eliminated the stupid turbo temps.
Its simple maths:
Reatricitve exhaust drives up exhauts gas temp=hotter turbo=hotter inlet temps=hotter egts AND THEN THE CYCLE REPEATS ITSELF.

If you ever held a turbo in your hand you will realise that one side compressors air into the engine and one side is for exhaust. The hotter the exhaust side the hotter the inlet temp.
Turbo AR ratios and exhaust size are important factors to consider with NA engines. Diesels dont even need to run a exhaust post turbo! This is why competition trucks run extremely short pipes post turbo to get the exhaust gases out as quickly as possible. The issue lies in controlling turbo over speed, this is when they need to run external wastegates to control boost. Keeping the standard 2 and 1/4 inch exhaust and simply freeing it up wont do any harm to your puma engine. There are guys in the uk who have been runing straight through exhausts in their puma for 6 plus years with no issues. Ive even contacted one guy thorugh youtube for some feed back just for my own curiosity.

[clive22]

To tombie
I started this thread looking for a review on a new intercooler.
No where did I ask for your irrelevant response that offer snothing but an unsupported subjective response regarding an illegally modified exhaust set up that you claim is no louder.
I look forward reading to scientific evidence that removing noise abatement measures deliberately installed by the manufacturer to comply with noise regs does not impact on compliance or noise levels.


I also said I might be the first to order one on aulro, given that no one has said they have is reasonable. Putting some childish sunglasses emoji thing intimating you know something but won't say diminishes the thread which asked for just that info and in turn the forum which is all about information sharing.

Clive

[1nando]

Clive have you considered a PWR intercooler?
I have one installed on my 2.2 which was done by Brice Davis automotive. I have run this brand intercooler on 2 drag cars and they are awesome. Made in Australia and excellent quality....just throwing it out there as an option

[strangy]

Umm ok, this seems to have got out of hand.

Tombie wasn't being a smart Alec - just hinting he may have something on order that he's a little excited about.
I'm positive he wasn't in anyway having a poke.

[Toxic_Avenger]

How this thread turned out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbwyMd3smGk

I weep for the future.

[Tombie]

The only illegal component is the removal of the Cat...

However the tune WILL pass emission testing and meets all "noise abatement" requirements.

Want to know something - vehicle noise compliance also includes Drive by testing - hence why the Jeep Rubicon wasn't supplied in AU with the same tyres as the USA version - it was too noisy..

As for exhausts and emissions changes - the Rules state that changing ANY part of the system away from manufacturers fitment is a breach of ADRs...

So no aftermarket exhaust at all, or tunes, or Intercoolers, or air filters, or mufflers...

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[emoji867]

[strangy]

[QUOTE=1nando;2550450]If the exhaust on the puma is "up to the task" why do all bowler tuned defenders run 3 inch exhausts?

Because thats what they choose for performance gains.
In the case of the thread and and myriad of other "lightly modded" Pumas the factory sized exhaust with a decat is more than adequate to provide performance advantages with typical remaps.


Mate ive had a turbo glowing red on a sr20det making 430 rear wheel hp on a dyno crack the manifold simply because the after market exhaust i had on was to restrictive. Once i put a staright through 3 inch exhaust it pretty much eliminated the stupid turbo temps.
Its simple maths:
Reatricitve exhaust drives up exhauts gas temp=hotter turbo=hotter inlet temps=hotter egts AND THEN THE CYCLE REPEATS ITSELF.

Not sure if you used caps to emphasis or yelling (so im taking emphasis), now discussion has turned to equating overall temps affecting overall engine performance all of which are governed by the fuel air ratio and the fuel air ratio is where the simple maths begins, not after.
Regarding the sr20 and its poor exhaust, the combustion chambers, valves, pistons and oil are still seeing the same temps under the same circumstances and the cooling system is still having to deal with them, this where you earlier spoke of the "silent killer" no more glowing turbo doesn't equal all,ok in the business end.
Not having a go at you or others or deriding exhaust mods.
The context of my previous posts is that exhaust mods are done for performance gains not EGT decreases.

Anyway back to intercoolers.

[Tombie]

Even more so - a Bowler hardly has a stock engine or Turbocharger...

So the 3" exhaust suits their state of tune.

Also remember, tunes for AU operating conditions are by LR considered "ROW" and are different to UK tunes as they operate in a very different climate to us on average.

The BAS HiFlow cooler will be one of the best out there, flowed tanks and efficient core and engineered to fit perfectly whilst allowing for the larger silicone hose - Pete and the team have given design consideration to all of it.

[filcar]

Some feedback on fitting the the intercooler appearing on faceplant ...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/bas2rrc/

[Beery]

Wonder how it compares to the Allisport given that its coated.
As Allisport state, any coating on the aluminium will impede heat transfer.

[AndyG]

whilst allowing for the larger silicone hose - Pete and the team have given design consideration to all of it.

Are you saying my spare Allisport Silicone Hoses will not fit, there is a larger one required ?

[B-A-S]

Hi All

I saw this thread and though it was originally about my intercooler fitting I see it has slid slightly so though I best answer a few of the many made comments and thoughts on various things.

Sorry to the OP for the detraction from the original question asked.

Bowler use 3" cat/dpf back on their st3 cars that have a turbo from me, this is ONLY on 90" cars the 110" has a standard diameter stainless centre pipe as their kit, Personally id not bother for the cost but its part of their package and how they have structured it for the Defender challenge dedicated to their tune style requirements. I know this as I do all their remap tuning albeit with a few differences they requested be added....


Wonder how it compares to the Allisport given that its coated.
As Allisport state, any coating on the aluminium will impede heat transfer.
For this question it was also part of our testing (as well as much more also on many other main branded coolers),, see pictures.

Allisport intercooler coated the same as the BAS HI-FLOW and fitted with 2x Bosch 3 Bar Tmap sensors one at each side of the cooler measuring both Drop Pressure and Temperature on both sides of the core, this was done before and after coating.

The difference in temps between the coated and non coated at 16 meters/second air speed cooling it was no more when black than when silver. HOWEVER..... at slow off road/town speeds the black cooler radiated 2-3c more AWAY from the cooler than the silver one meaning black was more effective at slower speed ranges than a silver one.

The fine textured finish we have used was proven during testing to be more effective at catching the air cooling on the tank and core surface than a smooth finish which glides over the core and tanks, and so it aided in a better cooling surface when textured.

[B-A-S]

Are you saying my spare Allisport Silicone Hoses will not fit, there is a larger one required ?

NO any hoses will still fit....

Though we have made the pipe diameter slightly larger for a TIGHT fitting hose, we also made the pipes slightly more spaced out so that when a 6mm thick 5ply hoses is fitted to the intercooler, it can be fitted with ease without them catching on the radiator plastics or stopping you getting the clamps on easily which has been seen as a problem on other intercoolers.

EDIT.. Added a couple of CAD shots to show the area we made wider allowing for thicker pipe space and clamp clearance. We of course did the same both pipes of the cooler.

[B-A-S]

Clive have you considered a PWR intercooler?
I have one installed on my 2.2 which was done by Brice Davis automotive. I have run this brand intercooler on 2 drag cars and they are awesome. Made in Australia and excellent quality....just throwing it out there as an option

Which one do you have,, this one with the 55mm tubes or the larger looking one with 42mm tubes ?

I have the larger one's flow tests results..... :eek:

[B-A-S]

Hi

I have a BAS 150 autobiography tune in my Puma 130. Very happy with it and the software.

Noticed they now have a new in house designed & built intercooler. Heat, in high summer, at least has been on my mind with this tune. Keeping temps down sounds is a real good idea especially with a small diesel engine pushing a laden 130 along.

This new intercooler looks the goods and sounds easier to fit than the Allisport one which sounded a bit hard to fit and had a few issues with hose clamps according to a few threads on here.

Interested in other people opinions.


BAS Performance Remaps. Landrover tuning at its best! (http://bellautoservices.co.uk/)
Clive

Back to the thread :)

Here are a few more CAD pictures of the instal and the tollerances we have taken into account for fitting that give good info, ill upload fitted pictures as I can take them for you to help you see how fitting is done.

I appreciate impartial results and customer feedback will help more and Im sure poeple will post their results and thoughts as they make fitment them selfs.

Kind Regards Pete

[B-A-S]

AC pipeand lower water pipe clearance.

[B-A-S]

Fitting on a non AC car, tight fit and does FILL the space front to back fully with no more room for anything larger.

We use a 10mm spacer between the bottom of the diagnoal bars and the chassis as the cooler is thicker front to back than OEM and we need the forward space.

[skidrov]

OK, mine is received & fitted! A few observations, in no particular order - not trying to write an install guide (there's plenty of those), just a few points that are on my mind that might assist others.

Also, my car is a MY10 110 2.4, factory A/C, pretty much standard apart from a BAS re-map. I fitted the new BAS intercooler and kept the standard/original hoses.

- FWIW, you can do the remove/install without removing the rubber LR A-bar/nudge bar, if you have one fitted. You need to remove the top brackets, but that's it.

- The intercooler hose clamps have a "tooth" that holds them to the intercooler hose - it "bites" on the inside edge/end of the hose. So, after you have loosened the clamps you can't rotate them until you remove the hose and pry this tooth open a bit to release it.

- It is difficult to remove the old/insert the new intercooler on an A/C car. I clumsily broke off one of the tabs that holds on the top fan cowl as I lifted the old unit out. My bad, but there really is not much room. After breaking the tab, I decided to remove the two bottom bolts (as well as the single top bolt, already removed) from the "A" frame that holds the A/C condenser. This made fitting the new (larger) unit easier but it was still a tight squeeze. I was trying to make sure I did not grind fins against fins/projections, on either the condenser or the intercooler - it was (for me) nigh on impossible without a bit of movement in the condenser. I was nervous about moving the (rigid) A/C pipes even that small amount but (so far...) it seems to be OK. Use GREAT care here, in any event - watch the fins AND the A/C pipes, if you go this way (or, someone jump in and let me know what I missed! Surely there's a better way?)

- The intercooler hoses: ahhh what joy. :p The backs of my hands and my wrists are chafed raw... I found the clamps loosened off easily enough, just with a long screwdriver (perhaps they were a little too loose before starting! :eek: ). I also put a SMALL smear of rubber grease on the inside of the hose and the outside pipe edge to simplify slide-on (I was ambivalent about doing this, until I noticed there was already a bit of oil around the hoses & the old pipe stubs anyhow - time will tell if this was a bad call...). In any event, it was still tough - the pipes are LARGER on the new unit - which is good, but challenging at installation. The LHS hose (furthest from air cleaner box) was much easier than the RHS (nearest air cleaner) - I took off the air cleaner box lid to help a bit (and even thought about removing the box itself - every millimetre counts!). Basically, it was a matter of slow-steady perseverance until the suckers finally went on. I also re-positioned/rotated the clamps slightly (note comment above about the "teeth") so that on re-fitting the clamp screw was straight up-and-down - this meant clamp tightening was simple, via a long screwdriver - I made sure they were good & tight, past the ridge on the pipe. Hopefully, the larger pipe will mean that the hose blow-off reported by others will not occur on these new BAS units.

So, road tested, all good! No noticeable power gains, but then I wasn't expecting any - I want the lower EGTs for longevity. There is a bit of an improvement in rev-ability, so that's good.

All in all, for me, about 3 to 4 hours. Quite fiddly, but do-able. Definitely not a job to rush.

[Steiny]

I put the Bells 170 BHP remap, the Bells intercooler and silicone hoses into our 2013 Defender twin cab 130 about 2 months ago. 58000 kms on the clock. The remap went in easy as. The Intercooler nearly fitted perfectly except having to elongate the top mounting hole on the intercooler on the passenger side to get it to fit. The silicone hoses were a doozy to fit! Very tight to get onto the spigots due to not being able to get access to get your hands in there without removing airbox, hosing etc.
The remap is awesome. The defender is nearly always at GVM when we go camping and our camper trailer would be very close to it's 2 ton gross weight. The power from the engine is heaps better. We tow our camper up to Logue Brook Dam quite often here in WA and with the stock engine going up the hill to the dam we would get back to 2nd gear by the top, doing about 30 km/h. With the remap we could pull 5th most of the way up and went down to 4th towards the top and the Defender pulled 4th easily, could even accelerate.
Now to the Intercooler. What I have noticed with the remap is that when you are giving the engine a bit of hiding up hills and overtaking the coolant temperature starts to rise. We cannot notice it on the Defenders standard coolant temperature gauge but we have a Scangauge II connected permanently and the highest temp I have seen is 104 degrees Celsius. You can watch the coolant temp steadily climb the longer you give the engine a hiding.
Has Bells Hi Flow Intercooler helped keep the temps down? I am unsure. I never ran the 170 remap with the original intercooler. I can't say either if the engine temp climbing also is cause EGT's to rise as I am not measuring those temperatures. With the standard intercooler would I being seeing even higher temps. Unsure??
As I side note, the engine also went into limp mode and threw up 3 codes, and died when we pulled over coming back from Jurien Bay last week. Everything seemed fine up to this occuring and we weren't flogging it. Just sitting on 100 kph fully loaded with the camper. We also tow in 6th on flat ground and slight short uphills and have done for yonks so the engine revs weren't high. Will keep you posted if blow 6th up! The engine wouldn't start, until I cleared the codes. Unfortunately I didn't check what the codes were before I cleared them. Dumb ass! We have never had the engine go into limp mode before. Hasn't done it since. Will see what happens and I'll take notice of the codes next time and check what they are before I clear them. Fingers crossed they don't return.

[Tombie]

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One of the easiest jobs done to date. As always it claimed it blood tax, although that’s just me willing to shove my hand into spots I’m going to get cut up against.

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[Greg4427]

I’ve got a 2015 110 that I’ve put both the 150 and 170 BAS Remap into. I’ve got a scanguage11 permanently in the OBD and also have a redarc EGT/Boost Gauge fitted with the latter not connected for some reason (previous owner). I run the 170 mainly, as now the weather is getting cooler, and monitor the EGT making sure I don’t cook the engine as I don’t have a BAS Intercooler.
I’m considering the BAS Intercooler as well as the silicone hoses but unsure whether to proceed as I’m quite happy to run the higher tune with the EGT. One consideration is that I also have driving lights/bull bar which doesn’t auger well for freeing up the front for unrestricted airflow which seems to make a difference apparently. I do have a Safari RAI. So the dilemma is, do I go the BAS Intercooler or not........

[DazzaTD5]

I havent used the BAS ones, but...

*I've fitted Alisport intercoolers and have added them to the list of Defender TDCi things to do.
*While I havent had a chance to dyno the results of the Alisport intercooler it is another item that seems to smooth out the engine and make it run so much nicer.

[LR V8]

My BAS intercooler installation was pretty straight forward. The hardest bit was fitting the BAS silicon hose to the throttle body inlet.... not much space and the 5 ply hose is reasonably stiff.

The engine defiantly breaths better. I'm happy with the outcome.

Thanks BAS !