Traxide battery installation advice [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

Slappo

27th June 2016, 11:16 AM

I'm currently installing a Traxide SC80 into my D4. Couple of questions:
1. Re the choice of locations/connections of sockets in the rear, I'm reckoning that its best to leave the factory socket connected to the cranking battery and install 2 new ones (connected to the auxiliary battery) on the opposite (right) side where the cable comes into the jack compartment. Any tips? Or is it simply a matter of choice and convenience of location?
2. And any tips on the most appropriate auxiliary battery to buy? My default approach is to go to Battery World and ask them. The existing factory cabling is a bit fiddly and obstructive - don't know whether this affects choice or not. I have the tray etc already installed.
Amazed I haven't yet lost a single nut into the dark depths of the engine.
thanks
Ash

LRD414

27th June 2016, 11:23 AM

Ash, the Traxide tray is designed for an Optima Yellowtop battery. Not too many others fit and this one is Tim's recommendation.

With the sockets it's really just personal preference. I changed the left side socket to aux supply and added the right side one. This is how the Traxide kit I bought was designed. But your idea would be fine too.

Scott

Tombie

27th June 2016, 11:36 AM

Optima Yellow is what it was designed for.
Exide Orbital
Odyssey PC1500

Briar

27th June 2016, 01:20 PM

I followed Tim's instructions which worked great. I connected the existing 12v socket to the aux battery and I added the new plug on the right hand side as per instructions. Contact Tim for place to get Optima Yellow Top. I got it cheaper than anyone in town could even buy it for themselves.

A point to note that wasn't mentioned in Tim's instruction re the new driver's side 12 v plug is that Tim lists 2 possible installation locations, either on the side so that it mirrors the passenger side plug OR in an upward or vertical orientation. This is what I did. By installing it vertically it means that plugs will be more stable and not impinge on load space BUT be aware that if you do the vertical install as I did the Cargo Privacy cover thingy will not be able to be fitted at the rear if you're using the 7 seats as the socket prevents the blind from clipping in. Something to be aware of.

Trevor

BMKal

27th June 2016, 02:58 PM

Ash - I fitted my outlets exactly as you have suggested. Still have the original socket on the left side connected to cranking battery - we use this for charging iPad etc when travelling. Have two new sockets connected to Traxide system on the right side - third battery is connected to one of these (and the fridge in turn is connected to the third battery). Spare outlet is for camping lights etc - or I can use it with an inverter for CPAP machine at night if my CPAP battery is flat.

I have used the Optima Yellowtop as per Tim's recommendation - has worked well for me.

rhinosm

27th June 2016, 06:17 PM

I too have a Traxide system.
Installation instructions good. Take your time.
I went bit over the top and replaced the LHS storage compartment cover with a custom job, including 2 x 12V, 1 x Engel outlet, USB outlet, and an Anderson plug.I also added a 240V investor and outlet.
I left the std outlet as is.
After recent Desert trip, I didn't use the 240v or Andersen outlets at all.
I may remove these and add std outlet to circuit.
I ran fridge and external lights of system which worked well.

Ben_Vapid

27th June 2016, 06:47 PM

After recent Desert trip, I didn't use the 240v or Andersen outlets at all.
I may remove these and add std outlet to circuit.
I ran fridge and external lights of system which worked well.

Out of interest did you get a full night from the fridge when using the lights as well?

I have the identical setup but seem to sometimes wake up to find the sc80 has cut the fridge out. I run an ageing waeco on low settings but i'm wondering if that might be the culprit.

rhinosm

27th June 2016, 07:06 PM

Yes the fridge ran all night.
I have a older fridge, about 15 yrs, ran it on low settings.
Lights would run about 3 hours each night, over dinner and clean up.

drivesafe

27th June 2016, 07:17 PM

Hi rhinosm, you should see at least 24 hours of operation for you fridge.

There can be a number of factors to cause it to shutdown earlier.

The state of charge of your batteries is a good place to start.

Also the age and condition of the batteries.

Another factor is how much driving you did before arriving at your campsite, plus, how you used your D4 in the days and weeks before you went on your trip.

Can you post up some of your driving conditions and we can see if we can improve your setup's operation, without changing it.

drivesafe

27th June 2016, 07:23 PM

Hi Ash, and the wiring of the Land Rover power socket on the passenger side of you D4 is optional.

The kit contains everything you need to convert it from IGNITION only the 24/7 but this is purely an option and if you choose not to convert it, you will not effect the operation of my system or your D4 system.

rhinosm

27th June 2016, 07:43 PM

Thanks for the offer, but I think your actually referring to Ben_Vapid's comments.

"Out of interest did you get a full night from the fridge when using the lights as well?

I have the identical setup but seem to sometimes wake up to find the sc80 has cut the fridge out. I run an ageing waeco on low settings but i'm wondering if that might be the culprit."

My system worked faultlessly, I turned lights off after 3 hours and fridge ran all night.

Cheers

Meken

27th June 2016, 08:06 PM

You'll want the optima as it takes charge at a faster rate & therefore "tops up" the cranking battery because it is inevitably in a higher state of charge & because the isolator stays open longer the 2 batteries equalise

Russrobe

27th June 2016, 09:36 PM

rhinosm

28th June 2016, 06:01 AM

We used it once to charge camera battery.
People use them for laptops etc.
I think I will remove it, can do without it.

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 09:25 AM

Can you post up some of your driving conditions and we can see if we can improve your setup's operation, without changing it.

Heya Tim,

It was me having the issues. My SC80 and Optima are only ~2 years old. Ive had this behaviour before so it's got me worried there's a fault somewhere.

When it happened on the last trip, i'd done a full overnight charge with my Ctek before leaving, and driven all day (4 hours bitumen then low speed offroad all day, don't know if that matters to the alternator).

I was running my Waeco on the 'cool' setting, so not even a deep freeze. Used an LED light strip plugged into one of the back 12v sockets for about an hour. The SC80 had tripped overnight and the fridge was off. My projecta monitor still shows a 12.4v charge on the Optima but the SC80 is flashing. Could the SC80 be tripping early?

jonesy63

28th June 2016, 09:39 AM

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 10:17 AM

Hey Ben,
Take a look at your Waeco manual. They have a low voltage cut out which can cause those symptoms. They come out by default to protect the starter battery - about that voltage you mentioned. I set mine back to cut out at 11.8V and no more problems.
Cheers,
Rob

Hey Rob,

Thanks for that, yeah I originally thought that was it so disabled it on the fridge all together, but the whole Traxide circuit is cutting out, not just the fridge.

jonesy63

28th June 2016, 10:27 AM

Ben - isolating the main battery at 12.0V (Sc80 flashing) does not mean the fridge should cut out. In my case, the CFX50 compressor would switch off but not restart until the voltage got over the default 12.6V (high setting)! I have since adjusted this down to the low setting. Maybe your Waeco has different features - but on the CFX series you can't disable it - low-med-high voltage cut-outs are it.

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 10:40 AM

I have a CF-50. It does have a low/med/high switch, but also a red emergency switch underneath it with on/off. I assumed that gave me the ability the disable the emergency cutout.

I'll try dig up a manual online to confirm. It is already on the low setting though.

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 10:43 AM

"Emergency Switch. Should be in ?OFF? position for normal
operation. ?ON? position keeps cooling function running
continuously and bypasses the control panel in case of
electronic defect."

Low cutout on this model is 10.4v.

jonesy63

28th June 2016, 10:53 AM

OK - so if you switched on emergency mode and fridge was off in the morning - I suspect the capacity left in your aux battery.

Unless you were parked in full sun all day in say, Darwin - without car being run or charged... then I doubt it would also last overnight!

BobD

28th June 2016, 11:21 AM

I had my CF 50 run for two nights and one day with no issues, at the tip of Cape York in September. Also used all of our LED lights on both nights. We didn't drive the car for one day due to visiting Thursday Island for the day.

The low voltage cutout is particularly sensitive to the wiring between the battery and the fridge. The 10.5V cutout is measured at the Fridge when the compressor is running and I had problems with the fridge cutting out when it was connected directly to my old Patrol's second battery in the back via a cheap cigarette lighter plug and cable. Put a decent cable in and no problems from then on. Traxide cables are fine though!

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 11:23 AM

The entire circuit is cutting out so I think the problems outside of the fridge cutout.

BobD

28th June 2016, 01:19 PM

The entire circuit is cutting out so I think the problems outside of the fridge cutout.

Ben, the SC80 does not trip and isolate the circuit. It just disconnects the second battery from the starter battery and does nothing to the equipment connected to the second battery. If there is no voltage on the second battery circuit there is something else wrong.

The only thing I can think of is that the SC80 is wired incorrectly and is between the load circuit and the second battery, instead of between the second battery and the starter battery. This would mean that your circuits from the second battery are cut when the voltage falls below the cutoff voltage instead of just the battery being isolated from the starter battery.

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 02:02 PM

Ben, the SC80 does not trip and isolate the circuit. It just disconnects the second battery from the starter battery and does nothing to the equipment connected to the second battery. If there is no voltage on the second battery circuit there is something else wrong.

The only thing I can think of is that the SC80 is wired incorrectly and is between the load circuit and the second battery, instead of between the second battery and the starter battery. This would mean that your circuits from the second battery are cut when the voltage falls below the cutoff voltage instead of just the battery being isolated from the starter battery.

Ah ok, I always assumed it behaved differently. In that case I definitely have a problem. I followed Tims instructions to the letter so I don't really know where to start fault checking it.

I'll email Tim separately. Cheers!

BobD

28th June 2016, 02:16 PM

Just check that the isolator has a red wire going to the main battery positive and a red wire going to the second battery positive. The load circuit is connected straight to the positive on the second battery via a fuse. You may have mixed up the wiring at one end perhaps?

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 02:31 PM

I forgot to mention i've also got an ABG-25 at the back.

I've managed to replicate it and that's the cause of the issue: 12.4v on the battery side of it, on the other nothing. Short quick flashes so it sounds like it's activated it's cut out, but it's not meant to cut out at that high a voltage so I'm assuming it's faulty...

drivesafe

28th June 2016, 03:05 PM

Hi Ben, the ABG-25 should not Cut-Out above 11.6v, unless the voltage settings have been changed.

If you did not change the settings, then check the connections to see if there is a loose negative connection.

A loose negative connection can cause the unit to Cut-Out at a higher voltage.

Ben_Vapid

28th June 2016, 04:16 PM

Ben_Vapid

30th June 2016, 01:14 PM

Rewired and same deal, Tim i've emailed you for hopefully a replacement ABG-25.

Tombie

30th June 2016, 01:22 PM

Rewired and same deal, Tim i've emailed you for hopefully a replacement ABG-25.

Have you checked?

ABG-25 has User Selectable Cut-Out Voltage Settings and is shipped with the Cut-Out voltage set at 11.6v. but the User can set the ABG-25 settings to 11.6v, 11.8v, 12.0v and 12.3v.

Perhaps it's slipped through at 12.3v [emoji6]

Ben_Vapid

30th June 2016, 01:30 PM

Have you checked?

ABG-25 has User Selectable Cut-Out Voltage Settings and is shipped with the Cut-Out voltage set at 11.6v. but the User can set the ABG-25 settings to 11.6v, 11.8v, 12.0v and 12.3v.

Perhaps it's slipped through at 12.3v [emoji6]

I read that but mine has no selectable options. Do you need to crack the unit open?

LRD414

30th June 2016, 01:36 PM

I read that but mine has no selectable options. Do you need to crack the unit open?
Yes it's dip switches on the inside, so would need Tim's guidance.
But also recalling Tim's earlier comment:

A loose negative connection can cause the unit to Cut-Out at a higher voltage.
This would be the negative eye terminal you installed behind the driver's kick plate.
Could be worth a quick look before getting a new ABG-25.

But if it's loose then your rear Anderson Plug would potentially have issues too because it uses the same earth.

Scott

Ben_Vapid

30th June 2016, 02:10 PM

Ah ok, i'll stand by for instructions before changing the dip switch settings.

I assumed he meant a loose negative on the ABG. I'll pull up the guard and check the eye terminal.

rar110

30th June 2016, 03:17 PM

Instructions for the D4 must be a LOT LOT LOT better than for the L322.

jonesy63

30th June 2016, 04:20 PM

I assumed he meant a loose negative on the ABG.

I'm pretty sure Tim was referring to the earth connection for the SC80. I think it is either a green or brown wire (depending on the year it was bought), and it is meant to go to a body stud.

Ben_Vapid

30th June 2016, 05:09 PM

I'm pretty sure Tim was referring to the earth connection for the SC80. I think it is either a green or brown wire (depending on the year it was bought), and it is meant to go to a body stud.

Both seem OK. But would that cause 12.4v on one side of the ABG-25 and zero on the other? That doesn't sound right. Also as soon as the cars on again the ABG goes back to normal.

I'll open the ABG up tomorrow and report back on the pin arrangement. Hopefully it's as explainable as that.

drivesafe

30th June 2016, 06:10 PM

Hi Ben, if you don't mind doing some detective work, we can rule the ABG-25 in or out as the problem.

If you can, connect the fridge to the same leads connected to the ABG-25 input. Thats the wires with the In-Line Fuse Holder in them.

Then see if you fridge runs without any problems.

Slappo

9th August 2016, 05:50 PM

Thanks all for the various replies to my original post here - all very helpful. Now that I am back from my first trip with the new battery I can happily report that it worked really well. Optima yellowtop. Had to play around a little with the location of the nearby factory wiring to squeeze the battery on to the tray. Results were good: Full 60L fridge always frozen down to minus 6. Longest period 40 hours without using the cranking battery. Various other gadgets charged on the way. Frozen food ended up being the least of my problems (see separate post).
As someone who previously could write all of his knowledge on auto electronics on the back of a postage stamp, I can say that installation of an auxiliary battery can be a DIY job along as you are patient and follow the instructions carefully. Don't aim to do it over the weekend before departure. Probably took me 12 hours all told. And, yes, feeding the wire through the firewall is the trickiest part.
I should add that I reckon that no one has yet invented the perfect socket for charging various electrical items in a vehicle. Amazing how often one has to fiddle with the jacks to get a good connection.
Ash

Babs

11th August 2016, 11:28 PM

Where is everyone fitting the isolator switch, I can't see anywhere where it won't get bumped. ❓

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Russrobe

12th August 2016, 07:53 AM

Where is everyone fitting the isolator switch, I can't see anywhere where it won't get bumped. ❓

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Mine is hanging atm while i decide too. Thinking of mounting it below the gear selector. On the side, in front of the drivers seat. If that makes sense..

LandyAndy

12th August 2016, 07:59 PM

Mine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/816.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/003_zps6134840a.jpg.html)
Andrew

Russrobe

13th August 2016, 02:28 PM

Mine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/816.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/LandyAndy_2006/media/003_zps6134840a.jpg.html)
Andrew
Blends in anywhere with black hey Andy.. Almond seems to make things stand out like balls... Unfortunately.

Tombie

13th August 2016, 03:34 PM

I went a different route...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/681.jpg

Babs

14th August 2016, 07:28 PM

After some persistence I got them to put Redarc dial near headlight switch, Llams is on steering column left side and Traxide isolator is on the inside of the under steering panel attached with Velcro so it can be taken off if you require to remove panel. There is a little gap under steering column where the switch sits inside when you put the panel in place.

I'll get some photos tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advice and pics guys, appreciated.

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner