D3 Lower Control Arms

[DoubleDisco]

Hi All,

I'm looking at replacing the front lower control arms on my '08 D3 as I am getting loud clonking noises under light braking and when going over speed bumps / driveway entrances.

I've been quoted $350 per side for Genuine Land Rover, $250 for Delphi and $200 for Firstline.

I was going to go with the Delphi but they only have RH in stock and I'm not sure when LH will be back in stock.

I had a quick google on Firstline but couldn't see anything. Has anyone had any experience with this brand??

I've found all the aboves prices to be fairly similar to UK prices when you take into account freight charges so am keen to support the Aussie market.

Cheers

[DoubleDisco]

*bump

From the lack of replies I'm assuming no one has any experience with the Firstline LCAs.

Might just have to fork out for the cash for the genuine LR ones.

Cheers.

[sheerluck]

I think the general consensus is to avoid the cheap and cheerful LCAs. Otherwise you'll be doing the job again quite soon. ;)

[Disco-tastic]

The arms themselves appear to be generally ok. You want to make sure you have genuine or OEM bushes, as this is the part that wears out. Lemforder bushea are apparently OEM but half the cost of genuine LR.

I have the same problem but have not decided what to do yet...:o

Cheers

Dan

[Tinman]

I use TRSpares Padstow $255 a side complete. Have used these on my last D3 only went through two sets the original and the set from TRspares had 230,000 on it so they must have been ok. Never got to see how far that second set went. Now on my second D3.
Cheers

[jonesy63]

You can also get the RRS lower arms from TR Spares for $335 a side. They feature the heavier duty ball joint. (I like this store as it's only 15 mins from my home!) :cool:

[DoubleDisco]

I just checked with TRspares and the $255 ones are Firstline brand.

I might give these a try and keep my originals and get them rebushed if I ever need to do the job again.

Cheers.

[DoubleDisco]

LCAs have arrived and I'm now looking at a ball joint separator tool so I can fit them on the weekend.

I'm a bit confused about what size tool I need. From what I've read the ball joints are 35mm but the tools I'm looking at only have a 17mm fork opening

e.g. Toledo Ball Joint Separators Fork 200mm - 311271 - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-Ball-Joint-Separators-Fork-200mm-311271.aspx?pid=SPO84261#Recommendations)

Is the 35mm and 17mm referring to the same thing?? Will the above tool do the job? If not is any one able to suggest a suitable tool I should get.

Cheers

[LandyAndy]

The BFG(Tombie) posted a link in the last week to a UK mob that sells the specific tool needed.
Andrew

[Tombie]

The BFG(Tombie) posted a link in the last week to a UK mob that sells the specific tool needed.

Andrew


Different tool mate. Which I have purchased and is on its way :)

This allows bush changes without disassembling the ball joint or even removing the old arm from the vehicle.

[Tombie]

To separate the ball joint - undo the nut all but a few threads and jack up from underneath...
If being stubborn a few dead blows will shock it free.

Disclaimer: use common sense, support the vehicle on stands and keep clear of anything that may move or break free suddenly.

[crawal]

Tombie , what is the tool to remove the bush?

[shanegtr]

I done my LCA's a few month or so ago. Broke my old fork ball joint splitter while attempting to split the ball joint. As Tombie said, put a little weight (can get away without it) on the ball joint a give it a couple of sharp blows to the side and it will come apart no worries. Its the easiest tapered pin I've ever split

[DoubleDisco]

Thanks for the replies, I'll give the jack method a shot and see how I go.

Anyone know of any decent wheel alignment places in Western Sydney (Seven Hills area). I found an old post about Big Wheel Tyre & Auto in Girraween that is fairly close by so will probably use them.

I have a GAP iid tool so can put it in TTM myself before hand.

[Disco-tastic]

Tombie, do you mind PM'ing me where you got the kit and what you paid? I've seen various prices from ebay to their website.

I dont know whether to buy stuff now or wait a week to see if the pound drops further...

Cheers

Dan

[letherm]

Thanks for the replies, I'll give the jack method a shot and see how I go.

Anyone know of any decent wheel alignment places in Western Sydney (Seven Hills area). I found an old post about Big Wheel Tyre & Auto in Girraween that is fairly close by so will probably use them.

I have a GAP iid tool so can put it in TTM myself before hand.

This thread (post #15) refers to, and recommends, the place in the following link.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/231544-disco-4-pulls-left-when-not-corrected.html

https://www.tyreright.com.au/stores/parramatta

Martin

[DoubleDisco]

To separate the ball joint - undo the nut all but a few threads and jack up from underneath...
If being stubborn a few dead blows will shock it free.

Disclaimer: use common sense, support the vehicle on stands and keep clear of anything that may move or break free suddenly.



This is turning into a disaster of a day[emoji35]

Which bit should I be putting the jack on? The nut of the ball joint, the hub, the lca??

Which bit should I be persuading with the hammer? The ball joint thread/nut or the hub part?

I watched the RSW solutions YouTube video and it looks like he is hitting the hub part and it just "pops" out.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers.

[DoubleDisco]

Well the 5 minute break whilst posting on here seemed to have done the trick! Ball joint is now out.

Now to try and get the driveshaft out of the hub.

[Disco-tastic]

Yeah, that's why I'm now looking to change the bushes out while they're on the car. I've heard you can change the arms without disconnecting the drive shaft from the hub, but if you pull it out of the diff you have bigger problems.

To do it properly you need the proper tool. But there are just so many tools you "need" to work on these! :confused:

Just bought 2 rear bushes and all the bolts/washers :)

Now i just need to decide whether i buy the proper tool or just get my mechanic to do it. They're about the same price, and I'm not sure when I'll need to do this again, or if I'll stuff it up...

Cheers

Dan