Brake Drums

[123rover50]

I need some 11 inch drums for my current project.
All that seems to be available are the S3 type with the larger stud size.
Would there be a problem using those along with only one countersunk screw instead of three.?
I could swap to S3 hubs I suppose but I dont like the look of the big nuts.
Any suggestions?

Keith

[JDNSW]

The braking and driving torque is taken on the wheel studs, all the countersunk screws do is keep the drum from falling off when you remove a wheel. What I would do is turn up five steel rings to go round each stud to prevent movement on the hub. these need to be a push fit in the holes on the drum, and a clearance fit on the studs.

John

[gromit]

I need some 11 inch drums for my current project.
All that seems to be available are the S3 type with the larger stud size.
Would there be a problem using those along with only one countersunk screw instead of three.?
I could swap to S3 hubs I suppose but I dont like the look of the big nuts.
Any suggestions?

Keith

Someone must supply Series II/IIa LWB drums with the correct hole size. Not sure who though......

Just checked & Paddocks list them http://www.paddockspares.com/516599-brake-drum-lwb-front-and-rear-4cyl-s2-s2a.html
Freight would add a fair bit and they are probably britpart.


Colin

[123rover50]

Someone must supply Series II/IIa LWB drums with the correct hole size. Not sure who though......

Just checked & Paddocks list them 516599 | Brake drum-LWB front and rear 4cyl S2/S2A - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/516599-brake-drum-lwb-front-and-rear-4cyl-s2-s2a.html)
Freight would add a fair bit and they are probably britpart.


Colin

I bought a set of chrome swivel housings off them last month. They were blue box as well. I think I can see little rust spots coming through the chrome and I only bolted them up yesterday.
That link for the drums says s2 and 2a then on a bit also s3 so I am not sure they dont have the holes for the bigger studs as well. I shot them off a query to confirm it.

[gromit]

I bought a set of chrome swivel housings off them last month. They were blue box as well. I think I can see little rust spots coming through the chrome and I only bolted them up yesterday.
That link for the drums says s2 and 2a then on a bit also s3 so I am not sure they dont have the holes for the bigger studs as well. I shot them off a query to confirm it.

They listed Series III drums separately so I'd hope those were the right ones.
It means that they are definitely supplied by britpart/ Bearmach so you should be able to get them locally from one of the usual suspects.

My local brake supplier did manage to track some down for me from Europe, he quoted about $60 each but I found some good s/h ones so didn't buy them.

Regarding swivels.......I was deliberating over sourcing britpart ones but then managed to buy an axle with reasonable chrome on the swivels. It seems like local re-chroming could be a better option if you can find someone who knows what they are doing......


Colin

[chazza]

I bought a set of chrome swivel housings off them last month. They were blue box as well. I think I can see little rust spots coming through the chrome and I only bolted them up yesterday.


I had the same experience in a dry shed!

I have covered them with very sticky grease to stop them rusting more and hopefully if I ever get the car running, the oil inside will hold the rust at bay.

Next time I will do what I did on the S3 and fill the de-rusted pits with epoxy filler,

Cheers Charlie

[123rover50]

I sent Paddocks an email asking for confirmation on the stud size but so far no answer.
I think I may be too anal and will fit these S3 drums anyway. If there seems to be a problem I will swap the hubs out for S3 hubs,and use the big nuts. No big deal as I have more of them than S1 anyway, its just that I like the look of the small nuts more.
This is not a resto anyway, but a bitsa 1957 88" with a 200 tdi,LT77 and SW type body.

Keith

[B.S.F.]

ROVER PARTS PLUS in Ballarat have got some listed on their site. Part no 516599. Is that what you're after?.
.W.

[123rover50]

ROVER PARTS PLUS in Ballarat have got some listed on their site. Part no 516599. Is that what you're after?.
.W.

Thanks Wally, I have not heard of that mob before.
Thats the drum OK but I have already bought the metric ones.
Never mind, I will keep them in mind for next time.
K

[gromit]

Thanks Wally, I have not heard of that mob before.
Thats the drum OK but I have already bought the metric ones.
Never mind, I will keep them in mind for next time.
K

Same part number as the Paddocks link I posted, probably from the same supplier.

Are you going to make up rings to fit round the studs to match the holes in the drum as John suggested ? Otherwise, as he pointed out, the braking force will be carried by the three countersunk screws and friction between the drum & hub.

Colin

[123rover50]

These drums have only one countersunk screw.
Too much trouble to machine up bushes, easier to just undo the big nuts , slip off the hubs and slide the metric hubs on. Probably safer as well as the wheels I am using are made for the big nuts anyway.
As I said its not a resto but a speed machine:o:cool:
K

[Aaron IIA]

What is the problem with using drums that have oversize stud holes? I have been doing just this, SIII drums on SIIa hubs, for the last ten years or so with no problems to date.

Aaron

[gromit]

What is the problem with using drums that have oversize stud holes? I have been doing just this, SIII drums on SIIa hubs, for the last ten years or so with no problems to date.

Aaron

The braking force tries to rotate the drums, usually the studs stop the rotation. With oversize stud holes the countersunk screws and the clamping force between drum, hub & wheel are the only things stopping the drum rotating until the edges of the holes contact the studs.

Not ideal but sounds like it has been OK for you.


Colin

[Aaron IIA]

The drum can't go anywhere. It is still captive on the studs. It may rotate a little bit from where you first installed it, but then it rests on the studs. If you are concerned about the small locating screw not being able to handle the torque of the drum, then leave it out.

Aaron

[gromit]

The drum can't go anywhere. It is still captive on the studs. It may rotate a little bit from where you first installed it, but then it rests on the studs. If you are concerned about the small locating screw not being able to handle the torque of the drum, then leave it out.

Aaron

Personally I'd rather fit the correct drums.


Colin

[Aaron IIA]

Certainly. But have you found any vendors who sell them locally?

Aaron

[gromit]

Certainly. But have you found any vendors who sell them locally?

Aaron

Aaron,
I haven't been looking, because all mine have been usable.
The part number listed earlier should be correct but unless someone buys one we won't know.

If I remember I'll drop into 4 Wheel Drives in Melbourne & ask.


Colin

[gromit]

Certainly. But have you found any vendors who sell them locally?

Aaron

Spoke with Murray at 4-Wheel Drives and he hasn't seen the correct drums for some years but he doesn't do the ordering so maybe they are available if you order the correct part number.
Someone will either have to order them from somewhere like Paddocks or get them to answer a question by email.

Colin