High kms RRS cost of ownership

[Stuart02]

People sometimes ask what $$$ they might be up for when considering a high kms L319/L320, so given it's tax time I thought I'd provide this to give a feel...

TDV8 RRS purchased in May 2015 with 176000 on the clock, now just shy of 200000 - so let's say 20000/year. The descriptions don't tell all the stories behind the costs so don't take them at face value (labour and parts variously distributed). I don't even know what it's market value would be (options are Dynamic Response and rear entertainment system) but I /think/ we bought it cheap enough to have not yet over capitalised, if there's such a thing with cars. Getting close though!!

The foglights were an upgrade, and technically I guess the tyres (Cooper LTZs) were too though it was because the previous set were very bad quality. I've put a traxide/optima DBS in ($750 ish inc battery), which apart from being a brilliant touring accessory and peace of mind, I think, are almost an essential upgrade for vehicles doing a lot of short trips as ours does.

I've also bought a nanocom ($460 ish), snow chains to fit the 275/45/20s ($650 ish), replaced the broken misfuel reset tool ($35), two full-size spare wheels ($350), a replacement ipod connector ($20 ish), and had a dash upholstery repair done ($110). Oh and Rhino roof tracks and bars.

Still to go on the 'restoration' is another front strut (ok but a matter of time given one's been replaced), something unresolved but hopefully cheap in the front end like sway bar bushes, an unresolved shudder at highway speeds, new door rubbers and tailgate struts, probably a mitch-hitch to sort out the cantankerous factory tow hitch, then some cosmetics like the worn out badges.

Our alternator seems to be running fine despite strong opinion that they're a time bomb at such mileage. Perhaps a preventative maintenance item down the track.

/Then/ I can start on upgrades??? Cargo barrier, Underbody protection, LLAMS and a remap would be great... interior LEDs, reversing LEDs, emergency EAS... Anyway, here's the list :)

Battery $286.00
Service items $73.97
Transmission service $495.00
Suspension inspection $166.10
Tyre x 1 $390.00
Service $407.00
Windscreen wipers $60.00
Windscreen cowl $113.30
Replacement foglights $370.60
Lower control arms $1,595.00
Rear sway bar bushes $375.00
Rear brakes $1,210.45
Front brakes $805.00
Tyres x 4 $1,560.00
Rear door lock $544.90
Rear suspension, front hubs/bearings $1,005.46
Rear struts $2,620.20
Front wheel bearing $438.90
Front strut $1,320.02

[Rextheute]

I dont think that is an unreasonable cost of ownership .

Any vehicle you buy will need tyres , service and some running repairs - some of the upgrades could be argued 'nice to have ' but not deal breakers .

I,ve found out the timing belts are needed to be done on my "new " purchase - prob should have sorted that before purchasing , but anything i bought would have needed it done .....( im talking myself into it .)

Its a $2500 dollar job , but includes a service , upgrade to the software and a couple of things like front crank seal and water inlet . These are not neccesary at this time , but if im paying to pull it apart may as well capitalise on the labour cost .
This should mean the car is good for at least another 100,000km before needing too much work done .

But the initial purchase price was reasonable enough to expect couple of little jobs will need doing .

[Stuart02]

I dont think that is an unreasonable cost of ownership .

Any vehicle you buy will need tyres , service and some running repairs - some of the upgrades could be argued 'nice to have ' but not deal breakers .

I,ve found out the timing belts are needed to be done on my "new " purchase - prob should have sorted that before purchasing , but anything i bought would have needed it done .....( im talking myself into it .)

Its a $2500 dollar job , but includes a service , upgrade to the software and a couple of things like front crank seal and water inlet . These are not neccesary at this time , but if im paying to pull it apart may as well capitalise on the labour cost .
This should mean the car is good for at least another 100,000km before needing too much work done .

But the initial purchase price was reasonable enough to expect couple of little jobs will need doing .

Yeah absolutely - the windscreen cowl was opportunistic cos the windscreen was being replaced and the old cowl was faded, as they do; the transmission service was as much for peace of mind as anything although it does shift more smoothly now; and the front hubs were kind of preventative but I was hoping new ones would remove the shudder.

You're dead right, a bit of preventative maintenance when you get the chance is the best way to stay on the road. I took note of people's maintenance advice and as a result never had catastrophic issues with my D2.

[Narangga]

Similar figures to the 2006 D3 I have which is now over 220,000 km but has an engine with 100,000 km on it and a transmission that has done 70,000 km.

[Disco-tastic]

Tyres and servicing i would consider normal when you buy a car. As for all the repairs and new bits - if you got it for a good price then as long as you dont have to worry about thise bits again for a long time i would consider it to be ok. ~$12k is a bit of coin though...

I've had my D3 for 6 months. I spent $800 when i bought it to fix low coolant sensor, suspension dryer and a faulty rear door lock (i fitted it myself).

Since then its been $500 to fix a jammed EPB and service the park brake drums and $585 for a new rear wheel bearing and front anti roll bar bushes. Its also had a service at $480

I also have to replace the front lower control arm bushes. I was quoted $1500 to do the lot but will (try and) do it myself for cheaper (hopefully no more than $500). It will also need another service and a gearbox service before the first year of ownership is up (~$1000).

So for me that would be $3865, with over $1000 saved on labour.

Hopefully after that it will just be $1000/yr for services and the odd thing that goes wrong (haha as if :p )

Cheers

Dan

Edit: mine had 149k km when i bought it last October

[rar110]

Not a RRS but a L322 tdv8, so the same motor and identical spec ZF transmission. Firstly I should say I bought a high mileage my08 L323 for a reasonable price, and with my eyes wide open.

I bought some cheapy HT tyres about a year ago until I bought some compomotives. It was the best value purchase I have made. These 19" tyres have exceeded expectations at about $400 for a set. I unexpectedly picked up a set of used Compmotives about a month ago so they will go on soon.

I suffered a transmission failure about 9 mths ago, caused but JLR failure to apply grease to the output spline. Otherwise the tranny was good. I got away relatively cheaply with a near new tranny and transfer case for about $4500. On the plus side almost all of that cost was paid from pre-tax money on a novated lease. Also the failure occurred at about 240,000km. So a major failure like this was on the cards.

Soon after was an alternator failure. Again this was no surprise as it was the original alternator so 240,000km was a very good run. Another $1200. Again I'm not complaining.

I think the two best improvements have been the dual battery system and EGR emulators to disable the EGRs.

The duel battery kit which I just finished today (my 3rd attempt at understanding the instructions, which today I pretty much binned and turned to the forum) seems to make everything just a little better, starting etc. And I conscientiously maintain my cranking battery. The extra CCAs seem to help this amp hungry machine.

The EGR neutering seems to result in the motor run better.

I will be doing an engine oil flush next oil change. I think clean oil flowing around will ensure oil flows freely especially to the turbos.

Also I will be doing a tranny refill every 50,000km as my new tranny probably has a lead free stator bush. That's a cost every 3 years.

Still a very happy RRV owner. They are fantastic on and off road.