View Full Version : Fitting coil springs - gained 3"!
Frenchie
17th October 2005, 12:32 PM
Can't be too hard can it?
After considering the options I have ordered a set of springs from LRA. Rather than pay someone hundreds to fit them I am considering doing it myself. Are there any tricks I should know?
hiline
17th October 2005, 05:41 PM
yep.........................be careful style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif :wink:
Captain_Rightfoot
17th October 2005, 05:52 PM
On our 05 fender, simply jack back of car off ground... then jack under chosen side to rcompress suspension slightly to enable you to release the shock absorber. let down side jack. Remove spring retainer... remove spring.. then reverse for assembly style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif There is no need for any special tools style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
George130
17th October 2005, 06:22 PM
At worst you would only need a spring compressor. Its a simple clamp made for the springs. I used to use them on other cars but I have never done spring work on a Landy.
Bradtot
17th October 2005, 11:20 PM
get 2 car ramps remove /undo bottom of shockies on rear put car ramps on diagonal wheels drive up, remove spring retainers pop out spring. reverse procedure do other side.
You may have to increase height of ramps if not high enough.
As one wheel dissapears into the wheel arch the other becomes streched and therefore easy to remove without spring compressors.
I have done this many times and is safer than jacking up!!
Brad
Ace
18th October 2005, 04:44 PM
Hi Frenchie, its very easy, i did mine during the holidays.
The rears are the eaisest to do, get under the car and undo the shock absorber at the axle then jack up the rear of the car on one side, a trolley jack under the chassis infront of the wheel i was working on did the trick for me, the shock absorber should release from the axle and allow the axle to drop further. Then undo the spring retainers, pull the old spring out and put the new one in, put the spring retainer back on and tighten up. At this point you may need to use a smaller jack to lift the axle until the shock lines up with the hole, then slot it into place and re fit the nut, be sure to remember how the bush and washers came off when you undo the shock.
The front in harder, if your shocks are good then dont bother, but if they are marginal then i would advise fitting new shocks when you do the springs as you will need to remove the shock to get the spring out and the new one in, so if they need doing soon do them now, so you dont have to pull them out again later. You will need spring compressors for the front. You need to remove the shock, the easiest way to do this is to undo the 4 nuts around the bottom of the shock tower, and undo the shock at the axle and lift the whole lot out, then when you are done slip it all back on, its much easier this way because getting the shock undone from the shock tower is a pain in the arse, its better to leave it in. After you have undone the shock tower and pulled it and the shock out you can compress the spring and pull it out, then compress the new one and slip it in. Put the shock tower back in, tighten up and move onto the other side.
If all goes well and you dont have any problems it should take you an afternoon or so. Matt
sclarke
20th October 2005, 08:17 AM
I've been playing with coils and i have the front right, but rears i'm still playing with.
Front are Rangi Spares "Pink"
Rears are 130 as we speak, but i'm going Rangie spares with 2" Drop mounts on the rear shocks to get better articulation Drop.
Front shocks are Std, but getting 80 series Cruiser ones.
My advice. Talk to Rangie Spares.
I'm not about to can anyone, but alot of After market suspension is heavier duty than std and in the bush they dont flex as well.
Not all after market is like this but alot is.
Be aware of heavier duty coils, if you have a winch and bar then yes you will need heavier, but rear you wont need heavier unless you carry a large load.
LR got it right on a Stock defender with no options. as you load it you need higher rated coils. But for lift higher rated does not always work as you loose compression and hence loose atriculation..
I spent about 2 weeks solid trying Disco rear, Rangie, OME, King, EFS and came up with the Rangie spares as the best for my use.
Rays 130 has Rangie Spares also (kabota)
Keep asking.
Steve
hiline
20th October 2005, 08:45 AM
steve mine are OME i think all round
range rover rears front and rear style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
heaps of travel for me
sclarke
20th October 2005, 02:14 PM
OME Shocks???
and Rangie Spares Coils???
thats what i thought they were............
Is that right??
hiline
20th October 2005, 02:43 PM
not sure now 8O 8O
but i bought them all together from ARB cheap style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif :wink:
Frenchie
20th October 2005, 04:27 PM
Springs are coming from Rangie Spares/LRA/Les Richmond. 8)
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Rears are 130 as we speak, but i'm going Rangie spares with 2" Drop mounts on the rear shocks to get better articulation Drop.
Front shocks are Std, but getting 80 series Cruiser ones. [/b][/quote]
What is the advantage with 80 series shocks?
hiline
20th October 2005, 04:31 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>What is the advantage with 80 series shocks?[/b][/quote]
they are longer, but make sure you get them for a defender :wink:
if you buy standard 80ser shocks they are upside down 8O
Frenchie
20th October 2005, 04:35 PM
Originally posted by hiline
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>What is the advantage with 80 series shocks?
they are longer, but make sure you get them for a defender :wink:
if you buy standard 80ser shocks they are upside down 8O[/b][/quote]
So I go to a Toyota dealer and ask for a set of 80 Series shocks, for a Defender? (Or do I just say I want upside down ones?). 8O style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
hiline
20th October 2005, 04:50 PM
style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif you could try that :wink:
dont like your chances though,toyota sales people dont see the funny side :? :?
tech_support
20th October 2005, 07:50 PM
Guys,
Springs??? What are springs???
Sorry, I drive a P38...
Cheers,
Mick.
p38arover
20th October 2005, 08:15 PM
Originally posted by tech_support
Guys,
Springs??? What are springs???
Sorry, I drive a P38...
Cheers,
Mick.
They are still springs albeit air springs. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
Ron
Ace
21st October 2005, 07:00 PM
Originally posted by p38arover+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(p38arover)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-tech_support
Guys,
Springs??? What are springs???
Sorry, I drive a P38...
Cheers,
Mick.
They are still springs albeit air springs. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
Ron[/b][/quote]
I have always thought you were full of air ron. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
I just fitted 18month old King Springs all round on the Disco and have been happy with them so far, these were accompanied by OME Nitrochargers. The set up works quite well. I havent really done that much high suspension travel type off roading yet though. Matt
rovercare
21st October 2005, 07:17 PM
Be very careful of the brake lines so as not to stretch or tear them. it's very easy to do. you generally need some spring compressors for the front to avoid this.
RoverOne
22nd October 2005, 05:45 PM
Originally posted by Frenchie
Can't be too hard can it?
After considering the options I have ordered a set of springs from LRA. Rather than pay someone hundreds to fit them I am considering doing it myself. Are there any tricks I should know?
Not hard at all, I've done mine a number of times experimenting with different combinations, you shouldn't have any problems following Ace's instructions.
If your in Sydney I can lend you a set of spring compressors.
Cheers
Bryce
Ace
23rd October 2005, 08:31 PM
Originally posted by rovercare
Be very careful of the brake lines so as not to stretch or tear them. it's very easy to do. you generally need some spring compressors for the front to avoid this.
I didnt have a problem with the brake lines, the springs just wont come out like the do in the rear, with out the compressors. matt
Frenchie
25th October 2005, 07:06 AM
Thanks everyone.
If I'm going to have to get spring compressors I may as well use them on the back as well.
Thanks for the offer Bryce, but I am on the other side! :wink:
BigT
26th October 2005, 11:59 AM
If you undo the sway bar bolts on the u clamps it gets you that little bit extra you need to get them out. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
Frenchie
26th October 2005, 12:06 PM
Sway bar? What's that? 8)
Springs arrived yesterday. Might just get hold of a spring compressor and use that. I'm assuming jack the vehicle up, undo retaining plates, compress springs, remove and replace? (After removing damper on the front of course).
Ace
26th October 2005, 02:33 PM
Originally posted by Frenchie
Thanks everyone.
If I'm going to have to get spring compressors I may as well use them on the back as well.
Thanks for the offer Bryce, but I am on the other side! :wink:
You wont need to Frenchie, if you put a trolley jack under the chassis rail right in front of the rear wheel you are working on, undo the shock and take it out first this will allow the diff to drop further and the spring pulls out by hand. Matt
Micka
26th October 2005, 08:03 PM
Dude...
Just follow Ace's instructions...its as easy as **** :wink:
If you are changing shocks as well, make sure you get the next size up in terms of length.
Will nake a huge difference off-road.
Micka
RoverOne
26th October 2005, 10:10 PM
Originally posted by Ace+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Ace)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Frenchie
Thanks everyone.
If I'm going to have to get spring compressors I may as well use them on the back as well.
Thanks for the offer Bryce, but I am on the other side! :wink:
You wont need to Frenchie, if you put a trolley jack under the chassis rail right in front of the rear wheel you are working on, undo the shock and take it out first this will allow the diff to drop further and the spring pulls out by hand. Matt[/b][/quote]
I couldn't get my current new springs in without the spring compressor, no matter what we tried, but they were a lot taller (17") than the factory ones & heavier wire.
Cheers
Bryce
Frenchie
14th November 2005, 01:40 PM
OK, it's done! style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
Tried a combination of everyone's suggestions, probably a more laborious method than absolutely necessary but I wanted it to work first time. Only had one small hiccup.
Rear: Disconnected bottom of shockie, jacked up using factory jack on the cross member, removed wheel, lowered onto axle stand until spring compressed. Fitted spring compressors. Raised until spring could be removed, transferred spring compressors to new spring, fitted spring, lowered into place, removed compressors, re-fit wheel and shockie mount.
Front: same procedure except remove shockie entirely.
By the time I was doing the last corner I was obviously tired, because I put the axle stand under the axle but didn't lower the vehicle to take the weight off the shockie mount before removing the bottom nut. Couldn't work out why the nut was so stupidly tight until it popped off and the axle dropped 6 inches on to the stand. 8O
Results? I have gained 1 inch at the back (measured wheel centre to wheel arch), and a massive 3 inches at the front. It now sits level and the front looks so much better, and should now stop acting as a mud plough.
I had to remove my steering guard because it was stopping the axle drooping at the front badly enough to prevent me removing the spring. (Steering rod resting on the guard). I was losing 3-4 inches of articulation at the front. It will have to be modified before it goes back on. :?
Ace
14th November 2005, 07:46 PM
Good stuff mate, how do you find the ride? Matt
DirtyDawg
14th November 2005, 09:20 PM
So Tony was the suspension motivation from seeing pictures of the salisbury diff plough on top of mt awesome? :wink:
or like me was it the 2 hours of mud collection from the underbody..I washed out so much mud the Shire of Harvey have sent me a land tax notice style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif
LandyAndy
14th November 2005, 09:23 PM
Hi Frenchie
All you need now is a set of tyres like Gordons and you will be INVINCEABLE 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Andrew
Frenchie
15th November 2005, 01:58 PM
Yeah I need the tyres! Unfortunately the new springs won't change the effect of the Salisbury Ground Anchor, but at least it should stop the bullbar acting like a dozer blade!
tombraider
15th November 2005, 05:47 PM
So which colour code springs did you end up fitting?
And whats the basics of your defender?
Eg. Bar, Winch? Rear Draws, Tyre Carrier, Long range tank, Roof rack etc...
Enquiring minds would like to know!!
Cheers
Mike
Frenchie
15th November 2005, 06:11 PM
Yellow/orange on the back, yellow/purple on the front. The rears were 17" free length, can't remember what the fronts are.
I have a steel bar and winch on the front, roof rack, lr tank.
I'm quite happy with the result. On reflection another inch at the back may have been better, though it sits perfectly level now. Be interesting to see what the back end does when it's loaded for camping and the camper trailer hitched up.
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