AMK Compressor and "Normal Height Only" fault, and fix!

[Grentarc]

On Sunday I got my first "normal height only" message, which surprised me at first as my D4 has the AMK compressor, but after a bit of thought and figuring out when the compressor was installed (almost exactly 6 years ago) and remembering how much use the compressor has had in this time I had a feeling it may just be that the dryer was blocked.
I did a little online searching and found one place in the UK that sells new desiccant and filter pads for AMK compressors for ?19.99, so it must happen enough for someone to make a kit.
I decided to buy some silica based desiccant beads (not crystals) to replace my aging desiccant, and made some filter pads out of some thin felt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/10.jpg

The compressor is pretty easy to remove, I did it via removing the 3 bolts with springs holding the compressor to the mounting plate instead of removing the whole plate - this way I could give my (dodgy) shoulders a rest from time to time instead of having to hold the entire weight up when removing and installing - it does squeeze out if you remove the bolts, then springs and remove it towards the rear of the vehicle and out the side at the same time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/11.jpg

Once removed, the best thing is to put the compressor in a vise (sorry, no photo) as the two T30 screws holding the dryer on were very very tight - no thread locker was spotted, so none was applied on reassembly. The trick is to keep the dryer pushed down whilst undoing the screws as there is a spring inside that keeps the desiccant compressed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/12.jpg

Once the dryer was off, I could see the filters were pretty dirty, and there were quite a few crushed desiccant beads
There are 2 metal screens, one at each end with the filters being on the desiccant side of these screens.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/13.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/14.jpg

I replaced the bottom screen and filter, filled the dryer with new beads and then placed new filter then screen on top - there are little tabs to lock the screen in place before reassembling with the spring.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/15.jpg

I reassembled in the same order as I disassembled and once I cycled the ignition (Suspension fault comes up if you disconnect compressor while the battery is still connected), my suspension works as it should, and I must say, much quicker than before.

The desiccant I bought is this stuff (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silica-Gel-Desiccant-Beads-500g-Self-Indicating-BLUE-PINK-Reusable-/172239788878)and I have probably enough to do another 4, maybe 5.

[LRD414]

Good write-up Justin. Any difficulty disconnecting or reconnecting air lines?

Scott

[Grentarc]

Good write-up Justin. Any difficulty disconnecting or reconnecting air lines?

Scott

Thanks Scott,
No difficulty, I just used a small shifter to undo the 3 air lines as my open ended spanners were on the other side of the car and I really didn't want to get up off the ground again.
The hardest part of the whole thing was probably getting the compressor back in, but that wasn't anything more than maybe 2 minutes work.

[scarry]

Good write up:)

FWIW,there is also an inlet filter up in front the left rear tail light that probably could do with a clean as well.Not the easiest thing to get out though,actually a PITA to get out.

[Grentarc]

FWIW,there is also an inlet filter up in front the left rear tail light that probably could do with a clean as well.Not the easiest thing to get out though,actually a PITA to get out.

Yes, it could probably do with having a look at, as the vehicle is 6.5 years old now

[crawal]

I rebuilt my old Hitachi compressor using one of the kits from the uk , hardest part was the top bolt.rebuilt on the kitchen bench works a treat , good write ups on the Disc 3 site.

[Grentarc]

I rebuilt my old Hitachi compressor using one of the kits from the uk , hardest part was the top bolt.rebuilt on the kitchen bench works a treat , good write ups on the Disc 3 site.

Luckily my compressor isn't to the point in needing a full rebuild - I did note that when it was restricted to normal height that the compressor was not noisy at all, so was hoping at the time it was just the dryer becoming blocked.

[PerthDisco]

I rebuilt my old Hitachi compressor using one of the kits from the uk , hardest part was the top bolt.rebuilt on the kitchen bench works a treat , good write ups on the Disc 3 site.

Was called Landyair now called 4x4airseals. Not expensive at all.

I did same and top bolt very awkward. I was in a pit under the car and don't think you could do lying under. Need a universal on extensions to get the socket over the top onto the bolt. You need to be right under it to have any chance of seeing what you're doing. Good videos online. New unit looks much easier.

Drug squad had a good look at the package filled with white crystal looking desiccant.

There is a rebuild kit for the piston side also.

Mine is MY08 and all pipes came out with some lube spray with a little fight. You have to know the trick to push in and hold the collar.

Original unit still going strong. Well worth cleaning out behind the cover also.

[LRD414]

So is the normal height only warning just based on taking too long to raise (time-out) or a thermal switch?

Scott

[Grentarc]

It was coming on without any height change requests, and have been told it is usually from a failure to reach a specified resivoir pressure/it can tell that the pressure is not rising fast enough. I prefer this over thermal cutout as it means compressor life is going to be better than if it is overheating regularly.

[Grentarc]

I do not have the ability to read codes yet, and closest dealer is an hour and a half away, so it was an educated guess.
Edit-
When the vehicle had not been used for over 30 minutes or so, the fault would take around 5 minutes of running to appear, but if starting the car within 30 minutes of turning it off, the fault would take about 5-10 seconds to appear. It seems the suspension ECM "remembered" that it had a fault (and as a guess) to preserve the compressor's life.

[Graeme]

The compressors have 2 temp sensors, 1 in the head and the other in the motor. The ecu will show a 'waiting to cool' message if overheating anywhere, not a 'normal height only' message.

[jonesy63]

While we're on the topic of the suspension compressor... is it just me, or does anyone else also think the mounting setup is a bit strange? I get the rubber buffer and spring - but why only a spring on one side? It would seem to me that the compressor has a hard life banging up - with no spring to slow down the acceleration until the bolt head hits the rubber buffer! :angel:

[Grentarc]

I know what you mean - the top sound deadening I think is going to be pretty good at reducing movement as it hugs the compressor in parts like the motor and dryer. It was a tight squeeze getting it out and in.

[Grentarc]

FWIW,there is also an inlet filter up in front the left rear tail light that probably could do with a clean as well.Not the easiest thing to get out though,actually a PITA to get out.

I ended up having to give the filter a good clean, as my problem resurfaced last night. I cleaned the filter out with my workshop air compressor and quite a bit of dust came out
It is pretty easy to get the filter out if you have a body clip removal tool, or, if the clip is half broken already. The filter comes apart just by pulling the top and bottom apart, so no need to pull the airline off.
After cleaning the sponge and felt, no more issues again.
110825

[Russrobe]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/488.jpg

Hey Glen, just wondering if you noticed a little vibration just before this fault comes up. I'm really surprised it's happening to mine because it's been raising and lowering much faster than my old D3 did. Started getting the fault intermittently 2 days ago then just noticed the little 5 secs shake before cut out then.

Deciding whether I want to give the cleaning a shot myself or drop it back and hope it's covered under warranty.


Cheers

Russ

[Grentarc]

Mine has developed a bit more of a tantrum than the Normal Height Only fault in the last week or so. I have ordered my IID Tool with express shipping, as it now thinks it is in extended height randomly and other seemingly random issues.

As for a vibration, I do not remember one when it first started.
Yesterday mine decided that it had a major fault and dropped to the bump stops. When restarted it faulted out too quickly to try and raise it. I now have it up at normal height, but as soon as we got it it, it thought it had to lower so pulled the EAS fuses until my IID Tool arrives and I can find the cause.

I will update here as progress with this.

[LandyAndy]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/488.jpg

Hey Glen, just wondering if you noticed a little vibration just before this fault comes up. I'm really surprised it's happening to mine because it's been raising and lowering much faster than my old D3 did. Started getting the fault intermittently 2 days ago then just noticed the little 5 secs shake before cut out then.

Deciding whether I want to give the cleaning a shot myself or drop it back and hope it's covered under warranty.


Cheers

Russ

Russ you need to stop running over chinamen,you can never win:p:p:p:p:p
That is a warranty fix issue,its a vital part of the vehicles dynamics,not a play thing like a dodgy cd player or heated hair curler;););););)
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Interested in why your date is out.The one on the dash mate:):):):):)
Andrew

[Russrobe]

Russ you need to stop running over chinamen,you can never win:p:p:p:p:p
That is a warranty fix issue,its a vital part of the vehicles dynamics,not a play thing like a dodgy cd player or heated hair curler;););););)
Andrew
Bugger, fine! I'll give up...


Better disconnect the llams and take it back Monday then bahaha these guys are going to hate me.

[LandyAndy]

Mine has developed a bit more of a tantrum than the Normal Height Only fault in the last week or so. I have ordered my IID Tool with express shipping, as it now thinks it is in extended height randomly and other seemingly random issues.

As for a vibration, I do not remember one when it first started.
Yesterday mine decided that it had a major fault and dropped to the bump stops. When restarted it faulted out too quickly to try and raise it. I now have it up at normal height, but as soon as we got it it, it thought it had to lower so pulled the EAS fuses until my IID Tool arrives and I can find the cause.

I will update here as progress with this.

You can never trust anybody that sells you a secondhand car:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
Andrew

[Russrobe]

[quote=LandyAndy;2560973]You can never trust anybody that sells you a secondhand car:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
Andrew[/quote
Mine won't be a second hand car at this rate, it will have more new parts than old!

Hopefully just chuck a new compressor in..

[Grentarc]

You can never trust anybody that sells you a secondhand car:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
Andrew
Well the previous owner was here most of the day with me as we pulled apart the EAS and finally got it off the ground, so at least there is after sales support 9 months after the sale

[Russrobe]

Interested in why your date is out.The one on the dash mate:):):):):)
Andrew
Ah, because i just tried a hard reset... The fault came back after 2-3 mins of idle.

[LandyAndy]

Incase you didnt knoe Russ,that Justin fella bought his dads D4;);););)
Andrew

[sheerluck]

Incase you didnt knoe Russ,that Justin fella bought his dads D4;);););)
Andrew

And what a surprise, it came with LLAMS preinstalled. :D

[SBD4]

Well the previous owner was here most of the day with me as we pulled apart the EAS and finally got it off the ground, so at least there is after sales support 9 months after the sale
...and I hear he knows a little about the EAS.;)

[Graeme]

I learnt something too - I already knew that MY12 shocks had more bump-stop than earlier shocks when I fitted them but didn't realise that they stop the vehicle from lowering so far such that larger tyres now wont scrape nearly as readily. Its probably why Tombie's D4 can't use extra low in access height mode. The longer bump-stops had me thinking that the rear wasn't on the bump-stops so we spent time R&R'ing the rear valve block to check it for blockages rather than go directly to pumping air into the compressor's intake line.

[Grentarc]

One thing I forgot to mention was that I pulled my dryer apart again today, just to make sure it wasn't blocked and found that my colour changing desiccant is doing its job, as the first 5mm of beads on the inlet side of the dryer had changed to pink indicating that they had absorbed their fair share, but the rest of the beads were still dark blue - which shows that the moisture is all caught very quickly with the new desiccant.
If it turns out the compressor is definitely past it's time, I have found a place that does a rebuild kit for AMK compressors, which I will do first as the kit works out to be just a bit under $80 delivered. It is a kit for the AMK compressor used on certain Mercedes Benz models, which appears to be the same compressor (AMK only have 6 or so compressors, and 2 HD models which are essentially the same, for larger vehicles.) But the kit is not as easy as the Hitachi rebuild as a press is required. First I need to figure out why it keeps thinking it is in extended mode though.

[Russrobe]

I learnt something too - I already knew that MY12 shocks had more bump-stop than earlier shocks when I fitted them but didn't realise that they stop the vehicle from lowering so far such that larger tyres now wont scrape nearly as readily. Its probably why Tombie's D4 can't use extra low in access height mode. The longer bump-stops had me thinking that the rear wasn't on the bump-stops so we spent time R&R'ing the rear valve block to check it for blockages rather than go directly to pumping air into the compressor's intake line.
Yeah i thought we had been confusing the height module by putting it to access then lowering with llams. As when we went to leave again and raise the vehicle it triggered a Suspension Fault. But now it's doing it for no reason. Might try hard reset again as I'm not sure i bridged the connections. Used a snap on scren driver but it's not very conductive. .. My lead don't reach each other.

We triggered a couple of bump stop errors too a few days again which raised the car..

[Russrobe]

Interested in why your date is out.The one on the dash mate:):):):):)
Andrew
Just tried the hard reset again and I actually joined the two terminals this time. I've gone up and down 10 times in the past 30 mins with no error.

Maybe I did just upset it by hitting the bump stops too many times this week?? Can't go access height plus lowest setting on llams with mine...

[Grentarc]

I just ordered a kit for my compressor as I found a site that did it for $46 delivered from the UK, and had the LR part numbers in the compatible list. For that price there is no reason not to order it now.
http://www.i6automotive.co.uk/amk-compressor-repair-kit/

[Russrobe]

No luck on my theory, fault came back even without llams. Dropped it off today probably just a height sensor?

[Grentarc]

No luck on my theory, fault came back even without llams. Dropped it off today probably just a height sensor?

I have had a few times like this, no luck without reading codes. I ordered my IID Tool last week and can't wait for it to get here so that I can get into figuring out this issue.

[Russrobe]

I have had a few times like this, no luck without reading codes. I ordered my IID Tool last week and can't wait for it to get here so that I can get into figuring out this issue.
Ah, wish i could diagnose it myself too. I'd attempt a sensor change myself if that's all it was. Will need an iid tool asap.

Hopefully the warranty helps us out on this one. It proved extremely useful so far.

[Grentarc]

Yes, I have spare height sensors, but really don't feel like randomly swapping sensors and seeing if it drops to the bump stops or not. It is a pain to get it back up at the moment.

[Russrobe]

Yep agreed. Iid us the way to go

[Grentarc]

My IID Tool arrived today - and after I (emailed myself a copy of and) cleared the excessive number of faults that the vehicle had stored, I got a
C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
Good thing I ordered a rebuild kit. I will have to wait for another time to chase down the random "extended mode" operation.

It seems that the restrictions from a dirty filter and old desiccant only cause the AMK issues when it is already at the end of it's life, as I managed about 4 or 5 days extra life after I fixed each one.

[Grentarc]

So today was the day the new seal kit went in my compressor.
Sorry, forgot to take photos this time.
They are correct when they state it is difficult, and the instructions could do a better job of showing what to do and what not to do.

My compressor is definitely on the way out as the wall of the 1st stage has been chewed away from obvious dust ingress - I think I am going to reinvent the compressor inlet filter so that it actually filters the dirt out, rather than just slowing it down a little. Couldn't see the 2nd stage wall very easily, but I did notice scoring.

After replacing the seals on the piston, put it all back in and it works (for now) but I know I am on borrowed time. I have messaged AMK in regards to ordering a new compressor head and piston, but I am not holding my breath.
I have found a place in the UK that has brand new AMK compressor for the D3/D4 for AU$518, just waiting to hear back about shipping.
For now though, the rebuild holding.

[Grentarc]

I will have to wait for another time to chase down the random "extended mode" operation.

So I figured out the "Extended Mode" is a glitch with the software - if it can build enough pressure in the reservoir to not trip the "normal height only" fault, but not raise the vehicle fast enough it thinks that the roof is hitting on something and trips "extended mode" with the LOWER light flashing on the height selector, and tells me to reselect normal height when clear of obstacle

[LandyAndy]

Justin.
I have a very good UWA Engineering student son,I wouldnt mind getting him to make some air filters or an adaptor.Is there the scope to remove the air dryer and remote mount it with a specialty replaceable filter???? I havent pulled the cover for a look see yet.
Andrew

[Grentarc]

Justin.
I have a very good UWA Engineering student son,I wouldnt mind getting him to make some air filters or an adaptor.Is there the scope to remove the air dryer and remote mount it with a specialty replaceable filter???? I havent pulled the cover for a look see yet.
Andrew

The dryer is after the compressor, so there is no need to change it's design (yet?)

This is the filter that is in the cavity behind the LH plastic cover in the rear. The filter is clipped into the body at about tail light height.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1049.jpg

If you open it up (the outside "cap" just pulls off) , the first layer is sponge - you can see with mine that the sponge doesn't fully seal up against the inside walls
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1050.jpg

The next (and final) layer is a thich felt pad - it too isn't a tight fit - not loose, but this is air we are talking about, so it will go down the sides, and carry a fair bit of dirt with it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1051.jpg

In the bottom, you can see the ribs that are in place to give an even flow and to stop the felt from blocking the hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1052.jpg

After a bit of thought and discussion my father (Graeme) and I had the thought to change it to a paper filter, and just make sure it is changed like an engine air filter.



Edit - I got a response from AMK today that they have passed on my request to their Automotive Department, and if they do not get in touch, send another email to HQ

[LandyAndy]

So its drawing dirt from inside the cab:eek::eek::eek::eek:
Surely not.
Andrew

[Grentarc]

So its drawing dirt from inside the cab:eek::eek::eek::eek:
Surely not.
Andrew

You know those flaps behind the tail lights? it is right next to the LH one of those. As soon as you stop the vehicle in dusty conditions, you open a door, dust will surely work its way in those flaps as I don't think they could ever be 100% sealed.

[LandyAndy]

So its worth moving it away from there for starters.
Brilliant machine,still getting rid of the Series engineers I guess:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
Andrew

[Grentarc]

So its worth moving it away from there for starters.
Brilliant machine,still getting rid of the Series engineers I guess:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
Andrew

Yeah, I am thinking of what I am going to do, as I am going to fix the filtration when I replace this compressor.

I am thinking something along these lines, only I will find one that specifies to how many micron it filters.
Inline Fuel Filter Large Round 50 MM Diameter Aluminium Silver | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INLINE-FUEL-FILTER-LARGE-ROUND-50-MM-DIAMETER-ALUMINIUM-SILVER-/261105481958?hash=item3ccb1978e6:m:mYuGiDkm9pO6Xsv 4jvdODEw)

[Russrobe]

Unfortunately it wasn't a sensor for me. Getting a replacement compressor. I must be going down in record books for most parts replaced within 3 months of ownership.

[LandyAndy]

I will check tomorrow if we still have any filters from the Volvo grader,it had a canister paper filter in the engine bay for the onboard electric air compressor to pump tyres up.It also had the same element on other parts of the grader(diff/gearbox breather)
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Unfortunately it wasn't a sensor for me. Getting a replacement compressor. I must be going down in record books for most parts replaced within 3 months of ownership.

You is just like one of our operators.
A WRECKING BALL:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

[Grentarc]

Unfortunately it wasn't a sensor for me. Getting a replacement compressor. I must be going down in record books for most parts replaced within 3 months of ownership.
Is this under warranty for you?

[Grentarc]

I will check tomorrow if we still have any filters from the Volvo grader,it had a canister paper filter in the engine bay for the onboard electric air compressor to pump tyres up.It also had the same element on other parts of the grader(diff/gearbox breather)
Andrew

That is basically the idea, or to run the compressor inlet pipe all the way to the engine bay and pipe it into the airbox :D:D:D


Actually, if I increased the pipe diameter where the filter is now, and ran a larger pipe to the airbox, it might not complain.....

[Russrobe]

Is this under warranty for you?

Yeah, the dealerships been great. 3 months is about to expire though so it's all down to me and my basic warranty from here on in. Fingers crossed my omen finds someone else to annoy.

I was going to ask for the old one back to do a rebuild like you are but seeing as it's the old style compressor and not Hitachi I figure A it's probably beyond help anyway. And B it's an inferior compressor so not worth it...

[Grentarc]

Yeah, the dealerships been great. 3 months is about to expire though so it's all down to me and my basic warranty from here on in. Fingers crossed my omen finds someone else to annoy.

I was going to ask for the old one back to do a rebuild like you are but seeing as it's the old style compressor and not Hitachi I figure A it's probably beyond help anyway. And B it's an inferior compressor so not worth it...

If they are replacing with a Hitachi, keep it as people have good results rebuilding them, and you could do with a spare... also the rebuild is easier than the AMK

[Russrobe]

Hmmm maybe the new ones AMK??? The old one was the one you can no longer get a hold of anyway... Or is Hitachi just the cheaper one still being made.

[Grentarc]

You can still get Hitachi compressors to suit the D3/D4. If the dealer is replacing with the AMK, I would be making sure they know about the associated software update that needs to be done, and that the AMK requires new pipe work to be fitted too.

[Graeme]

or to run the compressor inlet pipe all the way to the engine bay and pipe it into the airboxI wouldn't draw compressor air from the engine side of the air filter for 3 reasons: the risk of allowing unfiltered air into the engine if the pipe fails, oily blow-back from the secondary air intake and the possibility of lower pressure making harder work for the compressor. I would just fit a large enough disposable paper filter where the original is located.

[Russrobe]

You can still get Hitachi compressors to suit the D3/D4. If the dealer is replacing with the AMK, I would be making sure they know about the associated software update that needs to be done, and that the AMK requires new pipe work to be fitted too.

Highly doubt it's the AMK then as i'm going to assume it's a lot more expensive too... Pretty sure it was Hitachi. Come to think of it even in it's current state it might be a good travelling spare... Would still make offroad height with llams.

[Grentarc]

I think both the compressors by themselves are about the same price (just from a quick online search) but the rest of the kit required to fit the AMK (pipes, plastic covers, software update) will blow the cost out.

[Grentarc]

I wouldn't draw compressor air from the engine side of the air filter for 3 reasons: the risk of allowing unfiltered air into the engine if the pipe fails, oily blow-back from the secondary air intake and the possibility of lower pressure making harder work for the compressor. I would just fit a large enough disposable paper filter where the original is located.
I don't think I would want to run a pipe that long through or under the car - just another thing to go wrong. Also through the car causes headaches if needing to take the body off, and under would have to cross sides of the car, posing high risk of somewhere to catch or wrap around drive shaft

[LRD414]

Justin, did you remove the flap piece behind the taillight to improve access to remove/refit the filter?

I'd like to get the flap assembly out to have a good look and clean.

Cheers,
Scott

[Grentarc]

Justin, did you remove the flap piece behind the taillight to improve access to remove/refit the filter?

I'd like to get the flap assembly out to have a good look and clean.

Cheers,
Scott

Scott,
No I did not remove the flaps, although I will be pulling it out to check how much dust has accumulated on the other side of them and to clean it out.
After seeing how much the flaps on just one side move when a door or the tailgate is shut, I would not like to seal up that side either, as I bet the increased effort to shut a door would encourage slamming, which I don't want to subject the catches to.

[Grentarc]

As promised, here is the story of getting my car off the bump stops without a compressor that worked at all.

I was stopped at a set of traffic lights when suddenly the car dropped to the bump stops with a new error code - "air inlet component failure" and a compressor that stopped sucking air completely on it's inlet pipe - so my trick of using my tyre compressor as a precharger to help the worn out AMK would no longer work.

I don't have photos of when it happened, so use your imagination a little.

First, make sure you select the correct line out of the compressor
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/300.jpg

It will finish like this on the resivoir valve block
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/301.jpg

It is a 6mm pipe, so I cut it with a pair of conduit cutters so it would be a nice clean square cut, and attached a high pressure joiner into position on the valve block end of the cut pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/302.jpg

Now, using some spare 6mm air line, and this blow gun nozzle (it screws into my inflation gun on the Max Air 3 - came as part of a very cheap Bunnings blow nozzle set)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/303.jpg

I used a heat gun to soften the pipe enough to slide the hose a fair way up, so that it could hold the 150psi that my compressor cuts out at.

To put less stress on the compressor, the car was jacked up above standard height back and then front - if out in the bush, you can do 1 corner at a time if needed, using the OE jack.

Then using my IID Tool BT and the app on my phone, I had the car started, then went into Service/Test -> RLM Suspension -> Test Valves.

I then used this function to "Adjust Rear" until weight was taken off the jack, then jacked the front and did the same. The front needs higher pressure due to the extra weight, so my compressor was on it's pressure limit (150 psi), but the height according the my IID Tool live values is right on "Normal Height".

Afterwards, all I had to do was set the suspension to "Build Mode" (also removed the 20A fuse for good measure) and remove my 6mm pipe attached to my tyre compressor and attach it back onto the line out of the compressor.

[Grentarc]

So my new compressor arrived today - it is the one supplied by Britpart, but is a proper AMK unit. The mounting bracket is quite robust compared to the one on the D4 - so I think I will change the bracket to the new one when I do the swap.
In regards to duty cycle - this new unit has a 400 second (6 minutes 40 seconds) maximum run time - twice that of the top spec (200 seconds) AMK list on their website, which means that the D4 should not ever exceed this time limit.

I ordered it from the UK as the same part in Australia from a local Britpart reseller was quoted at $1155 inc GST + postage, and this one came in under $750 delivered, and took 6 days.

[Grentarc]

So, if anyone orders the same compressor I did, I found that the mounting holes are not tapped - so you will need to tap an M6 x 1.0 thread in the 3 points that are used before you can attach it to the mounting bracket.

All going well, I will have the new silencer and compressor installed Saturday morning so I can move onto the LCA bushes next.

[LRD414]

All going well, I will have the new silencer and compressor installed Saturday morning so I can move onto the LCA bushes next.
Justin, have you seen the other thread mentioning to "slot the top mount of the three mounts to aid installation" ?
I'm guessing this is related to the three points you've had to tap but perhaps is referring to the "L" bracket that mounts to the chassis.
Not clear to me so any photos etc appreciated (which will probably be painful when you're in the middle of the job!)

Also, for the bushes have you got a press like Tombies?

Cheers,
Scott

[Grentarc]

Justin, have you seen the other thread mentioning to "slot the top mount of the three mounts to aid installation" ?
I'm guessing this is related to the three points you've had to tap but perhaps is referring to the "L" bracket that mounts to the chassis.
Not clear to me so any photos etc appreciated (which will probably be painful when you're in the middle of the job!)

Also, for the bushes have you got a press like Tombies?

Cheers,
Scott

The slotting of the top hole is a Hitachi thing I think, as I can remove and replace my AMK compressor in under 10 minutes (less than 5 minutes each way). With the AMK, if you just undo the 3 compressor spring mounts/bolts and leave the mounting bracket attached to the chassis, the compressor will slide out towards the rear wheel quite easily.

The points I had to tap are the threads on the actual compressor so that the 3 T30 bolts have a thread to screw into

I will take some photos tonight of my new compressor on the bracket that came with it so you can get an idea of what's what without all the dirt and hard to see angles.

For my LCA bushes I will be ordering a generic press set that people in the UK have had great success with, and at about $150 or so, I will give it a go.

[Grentarc]

These are the 3 chassis bolt holes, as you can see, in not easy to reach places, especially the top one.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/567.jpg


Here are the ones I remove ( T30 torx)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/568.jpg

[Grentarc]

So the compressor and silencer have been replaced - the silencer is a little tricky to fit, but can be done.
This is why mine needed doing - I had hooked up my tyre compressor to where the EAS inlet filter is, completely forgetting the silencer is between the filter and compressor. My compressor has a 150psi cutout, so hooked it up, turned it on and let it hit its cutout. About 10 seconds later I hear a massive explosion under the car and plastic shrapnel went everywhere.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/530.jpg

Here are the old and new compressors side by side
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/531.jpg

And here is the scoring on the bore of the old compressor
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/532.jpg

[David Hannett]

Does anyone know where the air filter for the suspension compressor is fitted if air con for the third row is fitted - On our D4 MY2011 the LH rear space is mostly filled with air con components and we cant see the air filter in this area - thanks for any pointers on where to look cheers




The dryer is after the compressor, so there is no need to change it's design (yet?)

This is the filter that is in the cavity behind the LH plastic cover in the rear. The filter is clipped into the body at about tail light height.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1049.jpg

If you open it up (the outside "cap" just pulls off) , the first layer is sponge - you can see with mine that the sponge doesn't fully seal up against the inside walls
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1050.jpg

The next (and final) layer is a thich felt pad - it too isn't a tight fit - not loose, but this is air we are talking about, so it will go down the sides, and carry a fair bit of dirt with it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1051.jpg

In the bottom, you can see the ribs that are in place to give an even flow and to stop the felt from blocking the hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1052.jpg

After a bit of thought and discussion my father (Graeme) and I had the thought to change it to a paper filter, and just make sure it is changed like an engine air filter.



Edit - I got a response from AMK today that they have passed on my request to their Automotive Department, and if they do not get in touch, send another email to HQ

[Graeme]

The (small) filter is basically out of sight up against the inside of the pillar clipped onto the pillar probably 2/3rd the way up to the window level. Reach in and feel around or use a mirror.