D2 Diff into a RRC

[blackrangie]

According to aschrofts website the D2 CVs and axles are stronger than rover cvs, axles.110987110988

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/cv-joints/disco-ii-cv-and-front-shafts.html)

Has anyone put a D2 front diff into a RRC and managed to keep the RRC bolt pattern?
Can it be done?

The only other way im thnking is to switch to d2 bolt patern put d2 front housing in with d2 bolt pattern and change rear hub to D2 with stock RRC rear housing, is that possible?

[Slunnie]

I doubt you will find much difference in strength in practice between the Ashcroft Rover type and the Ashcroft D2 type axles and CVs when combined for strength.

I'd expect even HD axles to break before the Ashcroft CVs do.

Personally, I'd look to run the Ashcroft axles and CVs in your housing.

[Vern]

Or do a toyota conversion and run 30 spline axles and longfields

[blackrangie]

I doubt you will find much difference in strength in practice between the Ashcroft Rover type and the Ashcroft D2 type axles and CVs when combined for strength.

I'd expect even HD axles to break before the Ashcroft CVs do.

Personally, I'd look to run the Ashcroft axles and CVs in your housing.
I run ashcroft everything in the front and hi tough axles with 10bolt flanges.

From Ashcrofts Website

"As the D2 has a "open knuckle" type front axle we are able to put in a much larger diameter CV joint, this increased diameter not only allows a much thicker wall of the CV bell but also allows the use of bigger balls which reduce stresses and also allows us to increase the halfshaft from the small stock 32 spline to the much larger 24 spline, same as the 24 spline at the diff end.
We have used the same proven materials as our other shafts and CV"s, ie 4340 for the shaft and CV outer and 300M for the cage and inner."

"In addition to our normal HD D2 front shafts which are made of the 4340 material we have made a limited quantity of these shafts in 300M material. This 300M is in theory only about 20% stronger but is much more elastic, we have also reduced the main shank diameter down by 2mm to ensure the whole shaft can flex and we have no stress concentrations at the spline ends. These are more expensive at ? 825/set and are aimed at the Rally Raid customers that cant afford a shaft failure mid race."
.........

So you can see from the above and previous pics the CV in the D2 is massivly stronger than the rover style so thats a big plus, you also get the 300m shaft option which is 20% stronger than the 4340 D2 shaft which in turn is no doubt is stronger than the rover shaft due to being able to fit a bigger shaft into the open knuckle D2 CV

[blackrangie]

Or do a toyota conversion and run 30 spline axles and longfields
I dont like the Toymota conversion as you end up with a weekish toyota diff(especially in reverse uphill) inplace of a almost bulletproof ashcroft diff. Yes you get 30spline longfeilds but you take a step back in the diff.

To options that have excited me

1. Broaching the Ashcroft front diff to accept 30 spline axles, then run Hi tough custom 30 spline axles, longfield 30 spline CV, and high tough 30mm spline 10 bolt flanges.

2. Running a D2 housing with Ashcroft diff, ashcroft CVs, broached to 30 or 35spline, custom hi tough axles to suit and 30mm hi tough 10 bolt flanges to suit.

Both would be mega tuff, but if the D2 option was possible i think it would come out on top. Which brings me back to the original question of this thread.

[Slunnie]

I run ashcroft everything in the front and hi tough axles with 10bolt flanges.

From Ashcrofts Website

"As the D2 has a "open knuckle" type front axle we are able to put in a much larger diameter CV joint, this increased diameter not only allows a much thicker wall of the CV bell but also allows the use of bigger balls which reduce stresses and also allows us to increase the halfshaft from the small stock 32 spline to the much larger 24 spline, same as the 24 spline at the diff end.
We have used the same proven materials as our other shafts and CV"s, ie 4340 for the shaft and CV outer and 300M for the cage and inner."

"In addition to our normal HD D2 front shafts which are made of the 4340 material we have made a limited quantity of these shafts in 300M material. This 300M is in theory only about 20% stronger but is much more elastic, we have also reduced the main shank diameter down by 2mm to ensure the whole shaft can flex and we have no stress concentrations at the spline ends. These are more expensive at ? 825/set and are aimed at the Rally Raid customers that cant afford a shaft failure mid race."
.........

So you can see from the above and previous pics the CV in the D2 is massivly stronger than the rover style so thats a big plus, you also get the 300m shaft option which is 20% stronger than the 4340 D2 shaft which in turn is no doubt is stronger than the rover shaft due to being able to fit a bigger shaft into the open knuckle D2 CV
I think you will find that the limiting factor isn't the CV, its still the axle that will break first, even if it is 300M. The Rover (nonABS) CV isn't too different to a Longfield, they're made by the same company. They both fit in the Rover swivel housing and the Rover was developed as an evolution from the Toyota Longfield - I would go so far as to even guess the differences are the outer axle specs (to suit Rover) and the star to suit Rover axles and these are strong enough to hold a 1.31" 30sp 4340 axle which would be similar in strength to the 300M Rover one.

Never the less, I would expect a D2 axle to go under easily with the normal fabrication. Perhaps using a Salisbury ball joint mount at the rear to make life easy. My only question would be if you'd get bumpsteer due to differences in the panhard and drag link lengths - I've never compared.

[blackrangie]

I think you will find that the limiting factor isn't the CV, its still the axle that will break first, even if it is 300M. The Rover (nonABS) CV isn't too different to a Longfield, they're made by the same company. They both fit in the Rover swivel housing and the Rover was developed as an evolution from the Toyota Longfield - I would go so far as to even guess the differences are the outer axle specs (to suit Rover) and the star to suit Rover axles and these are strong enough to hold a 1.31" 30sp 4340 axle which would be similar in strength to the 300M Rover one.

Never the less, I would expect a D2 axle to go under easily with the normal fabrication. Perhaps using a Salisbury ball joint mount at the rear to make life easy. My only question would be if you'd get bumpsteer due to differences in the panhard and drag link lengths - I've never compared.

So what your suggesting is to maybe keep the Ashcroft CV in the Rover housing and broach it to 30 spline, run custom hi tough 30splines?

Panhard can get adjustable, drag links are adjustable or can be bought in D2 spec

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[blackrangie]

Still wondering about the original question if anybody knows?

Has anyone put a D2 front diff into a RRC and managed to keep the RRC bolt pattern?
Can it be done?

The only other way im thnking is to switch to d2 bolt patern put d2 front housing in with d2 bolt pattern and change rear hub to D2 with stock RRC rear housing, is that possible?

[Slunnie]

So what your suggesting is to maybe keep the Ashcroft CV in the Rover housing and broach it to 30 spline, run custom hi tough 30splines?

Panhard can get adjustable, drag links are adjustable or can be bought in D2 spec

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If you want to run 30spline, then it is worth investigating if a Longfield 30spline star will go into it rather than broaching. Then you would need to look at the diff end also and if there is enough material to broach, then to do that also. Its important to have consistent diameter for the full length of the axle so that the forces are spread evenly through the shaft, so not a 1.31" axle with a 1.24" end on it and the other way around gives you no advantage. What I would do, is leave the CV alone, leave the diff alone and have 300M axles made and you will probably end up with a similar result to a 4340 axle in strength but with better shock force absorbtion which might help protect the driveline (ie the Rover CW/P). It'll also save you a lot of time, money and fabrication. For the rear, same.

If Ashcroft/HTE etc don't/wont/cant do the axles in 300M then just go direct to the manufacturer who do deal with the public.
RCV Off-Road Performance Products - CV Joints, Axle Kits, Tools (http://www.rcvperformance.com)

Re Panhard/Draglinks, its not about the availability or adjustability, it's more about the matching fit and the links being similar so when the suspension cycles that the steering doesn't turn despite the steering wheel not turning - this is due to the axle moving on a different arc due to panhard location when compared to the steering which also needs to move on a matching arc. If you're fabricating already then you can also fix this at the same time.

[loanrangie]

Still wondering about the original question if anybody knows?

Has anyone put a D2 front diff into a RRC and managed to keep the RRC bolt pattern?
Can it be done?

The only other way im thnking is to switch to d2 bolt patern put d2 front housing in with d2 bolt pattern and change rear hub to D2 with stock RRC rear housing, is that possible?

Since the D2 uses hub units you would have to use the D2 housings so using RRC stud pattern is out of the question.

[blackrangie]

If you want to run 30spline, then it is worth investigating if a Longfield 30spline star will go into it rather than broaching. Then you would need to look at the diff end also and if there is enough material to broach, then to do that also. Its important to have consistent diameter for the full length of the axle so that the forces are spread evenly through the shaft, so not a 1.31" axle with a 1.24" end on it and the other way around gives you no advantage. What I would do, is leave the CV alone, leave the diff alone and have 300M axles made and you will probably end up with a similar result to a 4340 axle in strength but with better shock force absorbtion which might help protect the driveline (ie the Rover CW/P). It'll also save you a lot of time, money and fabrication. For the rear, same.

If Ashcroft/HTE etc don't/wont/cant do the axles in 300M then just go direct to the manufacturer who do deal with the public.
RCV Off-Road Performance Products - CV Joints, Axle Kits, Tools (http://www.rcvperformance.com)

Re Panhard/Draglinks, its not about the availability or adjustability, it's more about the matching fit and the links being similar so when the suspension cycles that the steering doesn't turn despite the steering wheel not turning - this is due to the axle moving on a different arc due to panhard location when compared to the steering which also needs to move on a matching arc. If you're fabricating already then you can also fix this at the same time.
Agreed with longfields, seems like a better option..on the diff side i hav it on good authority the ashcrofts can be broached to 30spline safely.

Running Ashcroft CW&P pegged on front and tom woods driveshaft, ATB Centee, Strong Auto so no probs there holding loads..


Rear is 35spline already as disussed in another thread.

Noted re panhards and links

[blackrangie]

Since the D2 uses hub units you would have to use the D2 housings so using RRC stud pattern is out of the question.
What i am asking is can either the D2 front hub unit be converted to RRC stud patern or the rear RRC hub be converted to D2 stub pattern?

[Slunnie]

Rear is 35spline already as disussed in another thread.
Off topic, have you already done this? Rangie housing, Ashcroft centre and 35spline 1.5" axles? I was under the impression the diffs didnt have the space and the hubs not the capacity for a 1.5" axle, but hats off to you if you've done it!

[blackrangie]

Off topic, have you already done this? Rangie housing, Ashcroft centre and 35spline 1.5" axles? I was under the impression the diffs didnt have the space and the hubs not the capacity for a 1.5" axle, but hats off to you if you've done it!
Cheers, it was not easy but worth it, and not possible without LRA anf some other great suppliers.

Rear is:

Truhi9 with the competition spec 35spline ARB RD99CE

LRA Rover9 housing (these are available to order)
TruHi9 Diff
ARB Competion Strength RD99CE selectable locker
Custom 35spline Hi Tough Axles
Arnolds(ex jac mac) Custom hubs and Spindles to suit 35spline
Custom 10 Bolt Hi Tough 35 spline Drive Flanges
Put together by Les Richmond Automotive, LRA

End result is a bulletproof rearend, propshaft is up out of harms way and we only loose 15mm clearance over a stock rover housing, giving maximum pumpkin clearance with 35's

Would love to get the front up to similar spec, hence wanting to run D2 Housing with biggest axles we can fit.

[Slunnie]

Ahhhh ok. Awesome setup. Whole different ball game to what I thought you were doing.

Still the same, except I think 30/30 300M axles and Long/Ashcroft CV's still the strongest axles/CV's you will get in there. I still really don't think there is an advantage to changing to a D2 housing. I'm not sure what broaching of the diff costs, but speaking to Daniel Bonegard (ARB locker/compressor engineer), you can just swap out the side gears as the update they did a few years ago now moved to common components. I would bet this will leave your CW/P by far as being the weakest link.

[loanrangie]

What i am asking is can either the D2 front hub unit be converted to RRC stud patern or the rear RRC hub be converted to D2 stub pattern?


Not without a lot of fabrication , d2 hubs are too small for the 6.5" pcd.

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[blackrangie]

Ahhhh ok. Awesome setup. Whole different ball game to what I thought you were doing.

Still the same, except I think 30/30 300M axles and Long/Ashcroft CV's still the strongest axles/CV's you will get in there. I still really don't think there is an advantage to changing to a D2 housing. I'm not sure what broaching of the diff costs, but speaking to Daniel Bonegard (ARB locker/compressor engineer), you can just swap out the side gears as the update they did a few years ago now moved to common components. I would bet this will leave your CW/P by far as being the weakest link.
I have just heard that the Ashcroft does nt have enough meat to broach to 30spline from Dave himself..So the ARB does?

[blackrangie]

Not without a lot of fabrication , d2 hubs are too small for the 6.5" pcd.

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Define a lot of fabrication and note what we had to do to get 35spline in the back, ha

[PhilipA]

On the question of RRC to D2 pattern, if the vehicle is a comp vehicle you can get adaptors in the UK which change the RRC pattern to D2/d3 pattern.
I have 2 on my camper trailer.
This will also reduce the increase in track to about 20MM due to the D2 wheels having more inward offset than RRC wheels.

Regards Philip A

[blackrangie]

On the question of RRC to D2 pattern, if the vehicle is a comp vehicle you can get adaptors in the UK which change the RRC pattern to D2/d3 pattern.
I have 2 on my camper trailer.
This will also reduce the increase in track to about 20MM due to the D2 wheels having more inward offset than RRC wheels.

Regards Philip A

Thought about that but would need to be engineerable as everything else is on the truck.

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[bikeman]

I found this in ebay if it is of any interest.

HI Tough? Axles Defender Range Rover Discovery | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201234921465?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I hope In have done this correctly.

Phil

[Slunnie]

I have just heard that the Ashcroft does nt have enough meat to broach to 30spline from Dave himself..So the ARB does?
I had this discussion a while ago with Daniel Bongard who is the engineer for Airlocker and compressors. When they moved to the redesigned airlockers with unified gear sizes several years ago a part of the process was common design across various parts. My discussion was in relation to running a Nissan Patrol HP into a Toyota LC60 axle housing (RD136 with Toy30sp side gears 728H111) and again in relation to running Toyota 8" HP into Rover (RD132 with Rover 24sp 728H141). In both cases the parts interchanged, so you just replace the sun gear (side gear) in the locker rather than broaching it. I would expect this will still work with a Rover RD128 and Toy30sp 728H111 side gears due to the unified gear sizes but best confirm with Daniel dbongard@arb.com.au who really knows his stuff and is super helpful.

[blackrangie]

I found this in ebay if it is of any interest.

HI Tough? Axles Defender Range Rover Discovery | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201234921465?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I hope In have done this correctly.

Phil
Thanks..thats the good gear, we just trying to step up from that haha

[blackrangie]

I had this discussion a while ago with Daniel Bongard who is the engineer for Airlocker and compressors. When they moved to the redesigned airlockers with unified gear sizes several years ago a part of the process was common design across various parts. My discussion was in relation to running a Nissan Patrol HP into a Toyota LC60 axle housing (RD136 with Toy30sp side gears 728H111) and again in relation to running Toyota 8" HP into Rover (RD132 with Rover 24sp 728H141). In both cases the parts interchanged, so you just replace the sun gear (side gear) in the locker rather than broaching it. I would expect this will still work with a Rover RD128 and Toy30sp 728H111 side gears due to the unified gear sizes but best confirm with Daniel dbongard@arb.com.au who really knows his stuff and is super helpful.
Thanks..might come in handy

[Vern]

35spline 9" with long fields in rover housing??? Full custom I know, but:twisted:

[blackrangie]

35spline 9" with long fields in rover housing??? Full custom I know, but:twisted:
It works very well, LRA build the rear housing, its a Rover9 (they have actually installed a fair few into defenders aswell), its normally 31/24 spline, i wanted the comp locker http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Air-Locker-Competition-Ford-9-35-Spline-All-Ratios-RD99CE-P22781C7.aspx and 35/35spline so had to get custom bits to let that axle through etc..its also a Pegged TruHi9 diff so epic strong and driveshaft is nice and high.
They are Hi Tough axles/Flanges as he was willing to make them and apparently they are the best due to thier elasticity.

[strangy]

Another option, depending on, availability of skilled help and how often /easy you would envisage bearing changes. Pull the unit hubs and machine up new hub with D1 / RRC/Defer PCD, broach and refit.
Unit hubs can be pulled apart carefully.

[Vern]

You may as well make the front match the rear😊

[blackrangie]

Another option, depending on, availability of skilled help and how often /easy you would envisage bearing changes. Pull the unit hubs and machine up new hub with D1 / RRC/Defer PCD, broach and refit.
Unit hubs can be pulled apart carefully.
This is the first answer to the original question...thanks..will look into this

[blackrangie]

You may as well make the front match the rear😊
Show me how and i will, ha

[Vern]

Show me how and i will, ha
Well i have a grinder and a welder, can't be that hard😊.

Just get someone to make a housing, rest should be easy enough

[blackrangie]

Well i have a grinder and a welder, can't be that hard😊.

Just get someone to make a housing, rest should be easy enough
Haha..will try to talk to the guy who did the rear custom stuff..also want to know what is the biggest axle cv you can fit in a d2 housing

[Vern]

Don't here a lot of issues with longfields in the toyota's. I'd contact them personally.

[blackrangie]

So if i can get the hub adapted to RRC, then i can run maybe a 35spline cv and axles to a 9centre

[bee utey]

The single most major difference between D1 and D2 stud patterns is about the way the disc brake is mounted. On a D1 the disc is attached to the rear of the hub, on a D2 it slips over the front. To change the stud pattern would involve major engineering in making the brakes fit. Even changing over whole axle assemblies will involve relocating suspension mounts, costing valuable engineering $$$ which could be better spent on h/d components to suit the existing setup.

[Vern]

I'm guessing he has gone as heavy duty as he can with bolt in bits already. Time to go a bit further😈

[strangy]

The single most major difference between D1 and D2 stud patterns is about the way the disc brake is mounted. On a D1 the disc is attached to the rear of the hub, on a D2 it slips over the front. To change the stud pattern would involve major engineering in making the brakes fit. Even changing over whole axle assemblies will involve relocating suspension mounts, costing valuable engineering $$$ which could be better spent on h/d components to suit the existing setup. I could be wrong in my recollection but, there should be more than enough material to drill the D2 disc for the larger PCD, then it will slip over the revised hub I mentioned in the same place and utilise the same caliper and mounts.
If worst case blank discs are not too hard to sort. I recall the D2 axle housing is wider so some fab work will be inevitable.

[loanrangie]

I could be wrong in my recollection but, there should be more than enough material to drill the D2 disc for the larger PCD, then it will slip over the revised hub I mentioned in the same place and utilise the same caliper and mounts.
If worst case blank discs are not too hard to sort. I recall the D2 axle housing is wider so some fab work will be inevitable.

The rotor may have a large enough hub but the stock hub unit flange isnt big enough, you would have to get 4 used hubs to pull apart and machine up new outer flanges so you can re-assemble with new bearings and drill to RRC PCD with new studs.
An expensive exercise and really not worth the effort

[Slunnie]

So if i can get the hub adapted to RRC, then i can run maybe a 35spline cv and axles to a 9centre
I don't know that I'd get too hung up on getting a 35sp into the CV for a LandRover. You really don't want the outer axle to snap and I suspect that would become your fuse in that setup. The outer axle holds the D2 hub together with the bearing unit (unlike the Rover hubs) so if it breaks your wheel will come loose. I would expect 30sp into the CV to be doable if the star is compatible with the 30/30 Longfields. If you run the Rover setup, then you probably still want the outer axle to not snap due to the collateral damage it does when it breaks.

9" and 35 spline is what they run with 42's and 500hp flat chat on the rocks. To run that strength in the front I'm not sure that Rover is the gear you need short of one of those rare front Salisbury diffs.

[blackrangie]

The rotor may have a large enough hub but the stock hub unit flange isnt big enough, you would have to get 4 used hubs to pull apart and machine up new outer flanges so you can re-assemble with new bearings and drill to RRC PCD with new studs.
An expensive exercise and really not worth the effort
Why 4? Just front we talking about..for the rear we had to make custom hubs,spindles and flanges to get 35spline through so custom is no problem..what is possible is the question

[Slunnie]

Why 4? Just front we talking about..for the rear we had to make custom hubs,spindles and flanges to get 35spline through so custom is no problem..what is possible is the question
If you could do it then to suit a 35sp outer then!

[blackrangie]

I don't know that I'd get too hung up on getting a 35sp into the CV for a LandRover. You really don't want the outer axle to snap and I suspect that would become your fuse in that setup. The outer axle holds the D2 hub together with the bearing unit (unlike the Rover hubs) so if it breaks your wheel will come loose. I would expect 30sp into the CV to be doable if the star is compatible with the 30/30 Longfields. If you run the Rover setup, then you probably still want the outer axle to not snap due to the collateral damage it does when it breaks.

9" and 35 spline is what they run with 42's and 500hp flat chat on the rocks. To run that strength in the front I'm not sure that Rover is the gear you need short of one of those rare front Salisbury diffs.
So if you are going 30spline you can keep the stock RRC housing and run longfields and a custom 30 spline drive flange..but i think the toyo diff is a compromise.

I dont like the idea of a fuse, just build it all strong and dont drive like an idiot, ha

[Slunnie]

So if you are going 30spline you can keep the stock RRC housing and run longfields and a custom 30 spline drive flange..but i think the toyo diff is a compromise.

I dont like the idea of a fuse, just build it all strong and dont drive like an idiot, ha
Yes, and I agree completely re the fuse, but ultimately something breaks. I just think that its better to be something else other than the CV if you have to drive it out, and most definitely not the CV if its a D2 axle..

I suspect that even a pegged Rover CW/P will break before 30/30 Longfields.

[blackrangie]

If you could do it then to suit a 35sp outer then!
Ok so what parts other than the custom 35spl axles and custom 35 spline drive flanges would we have to make?

The housing it self is no probs LRA do them.

[blackrangie]

Yes, and I agree completely re the fuse, but ultimately something breaks. I just think that its better to be something else other than the CV if you have to drive it out, and most definitely not the CV if its a D2 axle..

I suspect that even a pegged Rover CW/P will break before 30/30 Longfields.
Pegged ashcroft CW&P?

[Slunnie]

I'm not sure re parts, but I suspect everything would be custom, even the CV's. Bearing units also.

Re the diff, I think so, especially if you're looking at 300M axles. At the end of the day a spiral bevel pinion is just small, especially if you then go to 4.1x etc and the problem is made worse. Thats why all of the the strong diffs are either big, hypoid or both, and the more hypoid the better (ie your 9" which has a big pinion offset - and in turn a big pinion). The hypoid has a larger mesh area between the CW/P and also the 9" is a much stiffer design with the pinion support.

Pictured below - all CW/P are 4.11:1 for comparison: Toyota 8" HP hypoid, Rover 8.5" spiral bevel, below Ford 9" (internet pic). You will note that a Toy 8" hypoid sits right in the middle of design between a LR and a Ford 9". They were just never built properly from the factory and high performance builders use a solid spacer in the pinion rather than the crushable unit when building them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/840.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/841.jpg

[Vern]

If running longfields, flanges would be 30 spline, axles (if running 9") would be 30/35 spline. So apart from getting a housing made and axles, and modding the bronze bush in the swivel and boring the spindle out, the rest should be all bolt in.

[blackrangie]

If running longfields, flanges would be 30 spline, axles (if running 9") would be 30/35 spline. So apart from getting a housing made and axles, and modding the bronze bush in the swivel and boring the spindle out, the rest should be all bolt in.
It may be even easier to try and find a Rover Style locker that can be broached to 30spline and run Pegged Ashcroft CW&P (we run stock rover ratios from memory due to the low gearing capabilities of the Chev 6speed 6l90 Auto)

[blackrangie]

Bit of clarification from Dave Ashcroft when asking 100% if 35spline or 30spline could be broached into the ashcroft 24spline diff.

He said

"Not 35 sp,

I don't know about 30 sp, I doubt it for 2 reasons, the 30 sp will not clean out the existing 24 sp and also if it did there wouldn't be enough wall thickness left on the journal diameter"

I have also spoken to Jac Mac (quite helpful if you show him the respect he deserves as a diff genious) and he believes his (now TJM's) Prolockers will work in the 30 spline scenerio..getting more info in a few weeks.

So, so far we have some info from an earlier post that ARB could work with 30spline using off the shelf parts.

Dave has said not sure about broaching the Ashcroft to 30spline but doubts it, have asked if he can supply blanks etc.

Jac Mac has said 30spline could be broached or use 30spline parts on his rover 24spline (but i need to confirm and get more info)

Does anyone know of a rover style upgraded diff ever being used with 30spline obviously coupled with upgraded CW&P and pegging?

[Vern]

Only one i can think of is jacmacs hypoid diff may be. Uses toyota cw&p in his own 3rd housing, not sure on axle combos though

[blackrangie]

Only one i can think of is jacmacs hypoid diff may be. Uses toyota cw&p in his own 3rd housing, not sure on axle combos though
Ok will ask him about possibilities in a few weeks..the pro locker does look promising from my convo with him, actually looking at the TJM prolocker, why does it not get mentioned more? 10mm engagement, reliable airline, reliable engagement, sttong design..defs better than ARB, looks as good or better than ashcroft?

[Vern]

IF you can get a jacmac one, its much better than the tjm. Ya just need to suck up to him as you said😊

[blackrangie]

IF you can get a jacmac one, its much better than the tjm. Ya just need to suck up to him as you said😊
Whys it better exactly? How is it activated, I run a manifold air tank for all my activation duties.

[Vern]

Air activation. It has a greater locking distance over the teeth and a few other bits. Tjm changed a few things from his. If you go see him he will show you the differences. In my opinion its the best locker made

[Slunnie]

Air activation. It has a greater locking distance over the teeth and a few other bits. Tjm changed a few things from his. If you go see him he will show you the differences. In my opinion its the best locker made
I tend to think the same, but Jeff is just too much hard work to deal with.

[Vern]

Unless you go there with a pocket full of cash😊

[blackrangie]

I tend to think the same, but Jeff is just too much hard work to deal with.
Depends if there are other comparable options

[blackrangie]

Does anyone have the spline size of the 30spline longfield CV that fits in the RRC front housing with a bit of massaging and what actual version is it, as in what land cruiser is it off?

[Vern]

1.31" rings a bell. Jacmac axles were 30 spline diff, 27 spline cv end. But no reason he couldn't do 30/30. Or 30/35.
May have to go onto Outerlimits4x4 forum and sift through info in the rover section, or Pirate4x4.

[blackrangie]

1.31" rings a bell. Jacmac axles were 30 spline diff, 27 spline cv end. But no reason he couldn't do 30/30. Or 30/35.
May have to go onto Outerlimits4x4 forum and sift through info in the rover section, or Pirate4x4.
Thanks, So is it the 27 spline CV that fits in the rover housing or the 30, why would the 27 be used?

[Slunnie]

Thanks, So is it the 27 spline CV that fits in the rover housing or the 30, why would the 27 be used?
Its just the standard size into a Toyota CV. 30sp into the CV was the Longfield upgrade.

[mattmannz]

Interesting thread.

This is my first post so please be gentle haha. I am part way thru a Toyota 9.5 and 8.0HP diff conversion on my Disco 1 and considered a lot of options before I went this route.

The front will get cromolly axles and CVS, rear stock. Both diffs will have selectable lockers and 4.8 gears.

I chose this path for two main reasons, cost and availability. The Toyota stuff is very easy to get and well priced and the rear diff is super strong and the front is easy to upgrade.

Excellent thread!

[blackrangie]

Interesting thread.

This is my first post so please be gentle haha. I am part way thru a Toyota 9.5 and 8.0HP diff conversion on my Disco 1 and considered a lot of options before I went this route.

The front will get cromolly axles and CVS, rear stock. Both diffs will have selectable lockers and 4.8 gears.

I chose this path for two main reasons, cost and availability. The Toyota stuff is very easy to get and well priced and the rear diff is super strong and the front is easy to upgrade.

Excellent thread!
Full housing swap or just internals?

[Slunnie]

Interesting thread.

This is my first post so please be gentle haha. I am part way thru a Toyota 9.5 and 8.0HP diff conversion on my Disco 1 and considered a lot of options before I went this route.

The front will get cromolly axles and CVS, rear stock. Both diffs will have selectable lockers and 4.8 gears.

I chose this path for two main reasons, cost and availability. The Toyota stuff is very easy to get and well priced and the rear diff is super strong and the front is easy to upgrade.

Excellent thread!

I agree, this is an expensive and time consuming way to do things. My V8 ute has LC60 (9.5" hypoid) axles front and rear, good out of the box and everything is an easy upgrade. Patrol HP centre if you want it. For a coiler I think a LC80 or a LC100 full conversion would be the way to go.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/786.jpg

[blackrangie]

I agree, this is an expensive and time consuming way to do things. My V8 ute has LC60 (9.5" hypoid) axles front and rear, good out of the box and everything is an easy upgrade. Patrol HP centre if you want it. For a coiler I think a LC80 or a LC100 full conversion would be the way to go.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/786.jpg
Good is good enough haha..want to keep axles as rover as possible externally and strong as possible internally, want to keep rover bolt patern and also have current engineering cert and future modified cert to think about

[Slunnie]

Good is good enough haha..want to keep axles as rover as possible externally and strong as possible internally, want to keep rover bolt patern and also have current engineering cert and future modified cert to think about
Everybody does it differently for different reasons. I really love what you've done with the back end and it'll be good to see how the front turns out.

[blackrangie]

Everybody does it differently for different reasons. I really love what you've done with the back end and it'll be good to see how the front turns out.
Its all fun and games

[Vern]

Look for a thread on here somewhere from Ancient Mariner where he built his own front and rear 9" diffs for his defender, the guys a genious

[blackrangie]

Look for a thread on here somewhere from Ancient Mariner where he built his own front and rear 9" diffs for his defender, the guys a genious
Where they f100 diffs from memory?

[Vern]

Can't remember. May have started out as f100 diffs

[mattmannz]

I did a full housing swap front and rear. Used the stock Rover D1 arms, panhard, draglink, spring and shock mounts etc. I used early 80 series Landcruiser diffs and upgraded the front with the bigger later model brakes, this way I can still run 15in rims. The plan is to get this engineered/certified so that it's all street legal.

[blackrangie]

I did a full housing swap front and rear. Used the stock Rover D1 arms, panhard, draglink, spring and shock mounts etc. I used early 80 series Landcruiser diffs and upgraded the front with the bigger later model brakes, this way I can still run 15in rims. The plan is to get this engineered/certified so that it's all street legal.
Nice work!..how did you do the cruiser in the rear, doesnt it have the wrong offset for prop?

[blackrangie]

Have spoken to Arnold (ex Jac Mac) he helped with my Rear 35spline setup...said we can do 30spline right through and the prolocker side gears come in 30spline so broaching might not be needed. Will confirm all in person soon and report back.

TJM Pro locker with 30 Spline
Ashcroft CW&P Pegged
Hi tough 30 spline axles
Longfield landcruiser 30spline CVs
Hi Tough or Jac Mac 30spline Flanges

[Vern]

Have spoken to Arnold (ex Jac Mac) he helped with my Rear 35spline setup...said we can do 30spline right through and the prolocker side gears come in 30spline so broaching might not be needed. Will confirm all in person soon and report back.

TJM Pro locker with 30 Spline
Ashcroft CW&P Pegged
Hi tough 30 spline axles
Longfield landcruiser 30spline CVs
Hi Tough or Jac Mac 30spline Flanges
Whats in it now?

[blackrangie]

Whats in it now?
Nothing..its a parts list

[Vern]

Oh i thought your front was full of ashcroft gear

[mattmannz]

Nice work!..how did you do the cruiser in the rear, doesnt it have the wrong offset for prop?

The Land cruiser axles are all offset just like the Landrover axle. The head is a lot larger and it just clears the tank.

[blackrangie]

Oh i thought your front was full of ashcroft gear
Correct..however the parts i just listed where just a wish list, sorry misread your last post

[Vern]

Not a bad wish list😊

[Slunnie]

Have spoken to Arnold (ex Jac Mac) he helped with my Rear 35spline setup...said we can do 30spline right through and the prolocker side gears come in 30spline so broaching might not be needed. Will confirm all in person soon and report back.

TJM Pro locker with 30 Spline
Ashcroft CW&P Pegged
Hi tough 30 spline axles
Longfield landcruiser 30spline CVs
Hi Tough or Jac Mac 30spline Flanges
Nice! Too easy.
Hytuf axles? I thought Jac Mac also made axles???

[blackrangie]

Nice! Too easy.
Hytuf axles? I thought Jac Mac also made axles???
They do but Hi Tough Engineering axles are one of the best imo, I would have to be convined why Jac Mac are a better option for axles, also Hi Tough Flanges look the goods

[blackrangie]

Another idea is to run a strange 9inch front, either in the rover housing or in an LRA Rover9 housing allowing the use of the Competition 35spl ARB 9 locker, 35/30 spl hitough axles to 30spl Longfelid CVs and 30spl 10bolt hi tough flanges.

Or 9 centre with Series balls and 101 CVs (or longfields of similar size and an off the shelf Disk brake conversion kit,

Has anyone got more info on fitting series balls to a coil rover housing, or would it be easier to use a series housing and do a disk conversion f the series balls cant be bolted onyo the coiler housing? With this combo i believe you could tun 35spline front right through??

Apparently Maxidrive used to supply the series balls modded and used them in his rear portal steering. More info i found online below
"The only LR swivel larger than a series is the FC101 swivel, but unfortunately it is welded on to the axle housing.Maxi-Drive used to make new swivels from a solid block of 4340 that are series-sized on the outside, but large enough to fit a 101 CV. The FC101 CV is about twice the size of a normal land rover CV though."

More info here
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Four_wheel_steering.htm


Can it be that easy to get full 35spline in the front, am i missing something?

[blackrangie]

Also came across this info on GBR rovers and they seem to do diff spline conversions, have requested more info..will be interesting to compare to what Jac Mac can do.


http://gbrutah.com/product-catalog/cs-differentials-overview/coil-sprung-differential-carriers/

[blackrangie]

At this stage its looking like the following in the stock RRC front housing

Off the shelf 30 spline side gears on an ARB or TJM prolocker and pegged Ashcroft CW&P
30spline Hi Tough Axles
30/30 Toyota longfeilds
30spline 10bolt Hi Tough Flanges

Other option is to use a 9" 31 or 35 spline centre in the rover housing (can be done) then go to 30spline on the outer, i just dont think going to the 9 on the front will be needed over all the 30spline gear as above.

[Vern]

I still see the cw&p as the weak spot, even with 24 spline gear.

[blackrangie]

I still see the cw&p as the weak spot, even with 24 spline gear.
Thanks for that, Just like to know what data you are basing this on as ive heard as long as its pegged and 35s should be fine.

We are also running stock or near stock ratios in the diffs due to 6speed auto having low enough gearing built in in the lower gears, small Rover CW&P are stronger than the lower ratio ones with more teeth, its also pegged.

Less teeth means bigger teeth

From Ashcroft Website

3.50 ratio, with a tooth count of 28/8(see photo below)

3.75 ratio, with a tooth count of 30/8

4.12 ratio, with a tooth count of 33/8

4.37 ratio, with a tooth count of 35/8

4.75 ratio, with a tooth count of 38/8

All have a 8 tooth pinion, this is relatively low, ie the rover 3.54 has 13 teeth, you can achieve the same ratio with different tooth configurations, the stock 3.54 ratio is 46/13, our 3.5 ratio is 28/8, pretty much the same ratio but achieved with fewer, but wider teeth, the advantage being the wider teeth are able to absorb higher shock loading

Reverse Cut

All the above 5 ratios are now offered in both the normal rear directional cut and reverse cut for the front so unlike the incorrect stock rover design you are now driving on the stronger drive side of the gear in the front axle

111617
111618

[Vern]

Just from all the reading i have done over the many years, cw&p is generally the first to fail, not sure on the hd gears though, but i did notice when i installed mine due to the teeth size, the cw is a fair bit thinner, I run the ashcroft hd 3.5 in the front. I still think a jacmac hypoid which uses toyota cw&p is a better option, if using aftermarket gearset. Just not sure if they come in the ratios you want.

[blackrangie]

Just from all the reading i have done over the many years, cw&p is generally the first to fail, not sure on the hd gears though, but i did notice when i installed mine due to the teeth size, the cw is a fair bit thinner, I run the ashcroft hd 3.5 in the front. I still think a jacmac hypoid which uses toyota cw&p is a better option, if using aftermarket gearset. Just not sure if they come in the ratios you want.
Yes but they usually quite a low ratio and not pegged..the toyota front does have a rep for exploding in real world 4x4 situations that involve weight of the vehichle on the front axle and reversing, they are biased toward strength going forward which doesnt sit well with me personally but may be fine with others if they keep it in mind on the tracks.

I have heard the 9 can actually be installed in a Rover Housing twice in the last week, a strange 9 in 35 or 31 spline then 30 spline on the outers is another option that keeps the rover coiler housing and doesn't seem to have any downsides.

The question is is the front Rover ARB or TJM Locker with pegged stock ratio CW&P strong enough when matched to 30spline Hi Tpugh axles and longfields?

It sounds strong, but you really cant find many examples of it being done before.

[Vern]

The toyota hypoid doesn't run 80series front gears, from memory hilux 8" gearset.
To be honest i think the ashcroft gears will be fine, i just want to see you build a 9" in rover housing😎

[blackrangie]

The toyota hypoid doesn't run 80series front gears, from memory hilux 8" gearset.
To be honest i think the ashcroft gears will be fine, i just want to see you build a 9" in rover housing😎
The Rover 9 front is very tempting, its just is it worth the effort over the pegged Rover stuff with 30spline haha

Question

Would 31 to 30 hi tough axles be stronger or weaker than 35 to 30 hi tough?

If i went the 9 centre those would be the options..the Competition 35spline ARB 9 locker is what i have in the rear and its way stronger than the 31 non comp version.

[Vern]

I highly doubt you would break either of those axle combos.
Its a tough call. Some of the way guys treat 30/30 combo on comp rigs running bigger than 37's and generally a cv lets go first. But they are bouncing on the rev limiter.
Not sure how you plan to treat this car you have built though

[blackrangie]

I highly doubt you would break either of those axle combos.
Its a tough call. Some of the way guys treat 30/30 combo on comp rigs running bigger than 37's and generally a cv lets go first. But they are bouncing on the rev limiter.
Not sure how you plan to treat this car you have built though
Sometimes you have to drive hard, but not crazy, I want to do hard tracks and get home, and also dont want to break things going up very steep hills, very dangerous.

Im talking to Jac Mac and Arnold next week so will report back, also speaking to Outcast who are very helpful.

[Mercguy]

Having read this from go to whoa, I'm still unsure of a couple of things, because too many variables and no confirmed baseline.

So let's establish one, and you can annotate differences, so everything is clear as crystal.

1. Rover housing - RRC / D1
2. ARB / TJM carrier, with 30 spline sun gears
3. Aschcroft crownwheel / pinion set, pegged housing.
4. Housing (standard Rover, not a hi-9?)
5. Axles - not yet defined, but 30/35 sp appears to be desired.
6. CV's are either longfield toyo or ashcroft - not yet defined
7. Drive flanges are matching whatever spline comes out at the end.
8. Spindles - possibly custom to fit larger diameter cv shaft
9. Brakes - not defined.


Despite all the possibilities and permuations / combinations, and your outspoken stated desire to 'build it tough' You still need to design in a point of failure (the engineer in me speaking)...

Why?
Simple: Because if it does happen to break (eventually something will) you want the bit that breaks to be:

a) readily available - i.e. off-the-shelf
b) inexpensive
c) not time consuming or difficult to replace.

Now while I understand all the discussion around the combinations is about bang for buck and seriously tough hardware, I'm not sure that enough thought has gone into those last 3 points.

For this reason alone, I would:

1. concentrate the single point of failure to the drive flange if possible, or the CV at next 'worst case'

2. Use proven redily available parts which do not require any form of modification to any portion of the axle assembly as a whole.

3. try to keep the cost to the minimum.


So that would apparently leave you with some pretty bland offerings -

a) braced rover housing
b) strongest available locking centre - detroit locker, Ashcroft locker, ARB air locker... Eaton e-locker (heard some strange things about warranty with harrop)
c) Hi-tuff axles & MD drive flanges
d) CV - would have to be ashcroft in this instance, unless you want to specify the CV as the break-point, in which case you need some sort of 300M fabricated county-style CV, and stub axles to match.

Or, you can look at something more along the lines of your rear setup, with a hi-9 and all the funky bits, but having to fabricate / modify swivels, hubs to fit the required components.

Personally from the way I'm reading your thoughts in the posts, You're not going to be entirely satisfied unless you've spent an obscene amount of $$$$ on a front end which you're not even going to approach 10% of the design limits with the existing powertrain in the vehicle.

And that's all good - I'm always up for engineeing overkill, I do it myself all the time, but - I am definitely not a fan of setting myself up for additional excessive delay and expense should the subcomponents fail.

So in essence, what I'm saying is that selecting components that are more readily available, which will be more than adequate for the situation and are competitively priced, as well as being of renowned quality - would be the ideal solution.

I'm just not sure that this theory fits with the discussion you've been entertaining.

Personally I can't see a problem with a rover housing, stuffed full of 300M axles, cv's and drive flanges, with a pegged hi-9 or aschcroft geared centre and choose whatever locker best suits your fancy.

Even then, You still have other things to worry about.

But I'd still be building in the single point of failure - aka 'fuse' at the drive flange or CV. because they are easily carried as spares and can be changed over reasonably quickly.

Would be interesting to know if I have misunderstood the underlying philosophy or not. Let me know what you think, or if I am way off-track.

[blackrangie]

Having read this from go to whoa, I'm still unsure of a couple of things, because too many variables and no confirmed baseline.

So let's establish one, and you can annotate differences, so everything is clear as crystal.

1. Rover housing - RRC / D1
2. ARB / TJM carrier, with 30 spline sun gears
3. Aschcroft crownwheel / pinion set, pegged housing.
4. Housing (standard Rover, not a hi-9?)
5. Axles - not yet defined, but 30/35 sp appears to be desired.
6. CV's are either longfield toyo or ashcroft - not yet defined
7. Drive flanges are matching whatever spline comes out at the end.
8. Spindles - possibly custom to fit larger diameter cv shaft
9. Brakes - not defined.


Despite all the possibilities and permuations / combinations, and your outspoken stated desire to 'build it tough' You still need to design in a point of failure (the engineer in me speaking)...

Why?
Simple: Because if it does happen to break (eventually something will) you want the bit that breaks to be:

a) readily available - i.e. off-the-shelf
b) inexpensive
c) not time consuming or difficult to replace.

Now while I understand all the discussion around the combinations is about bang for buck and seriously tough hardware, I'm not sure that enough thought has gone into those last 3 points.

For this reason alone, I would:

1. concentrate the single point of failure to the drive flange if possible, or the CV at next 'worst case'

2. Use proven redily available parts which do not require any form of modification to any portion of the axle assembly as a whole.

3. try to keep the cost to the minimum.


So that would apparently leave you with some pretty bland offerings -

a) braced rover housing
b) strongest available locking centre - detroit locker, Ashcroft locker, ARB air locker... Eaton e-locker (heard some strange things about warranty with harrop)
c) Hi-tuff axles & MD drive flanges
d) CV - would have to be ashcroft in this instance, unless you want to specify the CV as the break-point, in which case you need some sort of 300M fabricated county-style CV, and stub axles to match.

Or, you can look at something more along the lines of your rear setup, with a hi-9 and all the funky bits, but having to fabricate / modify swivels, hubs to fit the required components.

Personally from the way I'm reading your thoughts in the posts, You're not going to be entirely satisfied unless you've spent an obscene amount of $$$$ on a front end which you're not even going to approach 10% of the design limits with the existing powertrain in the vehicle.

And that's all good - I'm always up for engineeing overkill, I do it myself all the time, but - I am definitely not a fan of setting myself up for additional excessive delay and expense should the subcomponents fail.

So in essence, what I'm saying is that selecting components that are more readily available, which will be more than adequate for the situation and are competitively priced, as well as being of renowned quality - would be the ideal solution.

I'm just not sure that this theory fits with the discussion you've been entertaining.

Personally I can't see a problem with a rover housing, stuffed full of 300M axles, cv's and drive flanges, with a pegged hi-9 or aschcroft geared centre and choose whatever locker best suits your fancy.

Even then, You still have other things to worry about.

But I'd still be building in the single point of failure - aka 'fuse' at the drive flange or CV. because they are easily carried as spares and can be changed over reasonably quickly.

Would be interesting to know if I have misunderstood the underlying philosophy or not. Let me know what you think, or if I am way off-track.
Hi,

Thanks for your well thought out and helpfull reply.

As said previosly this is where i'm at..

"At this stage its looking like the following in the stock RRC front housing

Off the shelf 30 spline side gears on an ARB or TJM prolocker and pegged Ashcroft CW&P
30spline Hi Tough Axles
30/30 Toyota longfeilds
30spline 10bolt Hi Tough Flanges

Other option is to use a 9" 31 or 35 spline centre in the rover housing (can be done) then go to 30spline on the outer, i just dont think going to the 9 on the front will be needed over all the 30spline gear as above"

The rest of the truck and driveline are very strong.

Meeting with a few shops this week


Have also addressed the weak link argument previously, I preffer to build my trucks strong enough to handle my driving style, and if something does go i will uprade it not replace it.

I really dont understand what you mean by the 10% comment or the I wont be satisfied until i spend big dollars comment??

This is being done because its needed and I dont intend on wasting money, just spending what i have to, to get the job done right.

30 Spline in a Rover coiler housing is not something new, its just not available anymore off the shelf as a kit anymore, its relatively easy if you use a shop that has done it before and know where to source the components from.

Will report back

[Mercguy]

What I implied by the 10% comment was the intention to build something that is absurdly strong, which (let's face it will cost an arm and two legs) will at the end of the day have a 90% reserve capacity of tensile / fatigue / compression strength. All this 'unused potential' which loosely translates to 'overspend' or as some would say 'unnecessary waste of funds'.
That is not to say it is not fit for purpose, but rather is wildly superfluous to requirements.

I had this huge long-winded reply, which I just cut, because I can probably do a better job without going into detail.

I fully understand what you want. My only query in the previous post, was 'so many available options' but 'at what real cost' and just how much of a safety margin do they provide for that cost.

And, is the additional work required, to make a set of huge axles fit, worth the expense? a pair of 24 spline 300M treated axles are incredibly strong.

But.... (as I wrote in my absurdly longwinded reply) If you have done the math, and you know what your max tq figures are in low and high range and at peak tq rpm, do they fall well within the material specifications for each component in the drivetrain? and are your tyre diameters also taken into account?

I wrote a physics paper in my other reply. I'll try not to crap on about it. I'll just ask if you have calculated those figures or not. If you have, you can very easily and clearly determine what axle spec, diameter and material, spline count etc is req'd. same for cw&p, locker, cv/s etc..... So you can factor in the cost versus safety margin you require.

My only concern was that potentially your combination of parts may not all be within the same margin of overhead, and could possibly leave you with a weak point, that may become the failure point - if - the safety margin is not 'enough'

Anyway, it sounds like you are on a path where you can choose from a selection of reliable commercially available parts which will provide you with the strength and reliability you need.

Let us know how it pans out. I'll be interested in how the build progresses. I had a desire for a hi-9 purely for the raised pinion, to provide better driveshaft angles, but the costs are prohibitive for a single net gain in my case.

In yours, I think you have more to gain with a carefully well-matched specification which has a reasonable margin of 'safety' above the max tq figure of your drivetrain.

[blackrangie]

What I implied by the 10% comment was the intention to build something that is absurdly strong, which (let's face it will cost an arm and two legs) will at the end of the day have a 90% reserve capacity of tensile / fatigue / compression strength. All this 'unused potential' which loosely translates to 'overspend' or as some would say 'unnecessary waste of funds'.
That is not to say it is not fit for purpose, but rather is wildly superfluous to requirements.

I had this huge long-winded reply, which I just cut, because I can probably do a better job without going into detail.

I fully understand what you want. My only query in the previous post, was 'so many available options' but 'at what real cost' and just how much of a safety margin do they provide for that cost.

And, is the additional work required, to make a set of huge axles fit, worth the expense? a pair of 24 spline 300M treated axles are incredibly strong.

But.... (as I wrote in my absurdly longwinded reply) If you have done the math, and you know what your max tq figures are in low and high range and at peak tq rpm, do they fall well within the material specifications for each component in the drivetrain? and are your tyre diameters also taken into account?

I wrote a physics paper in my other reply. I'll try not to crap on about it. I'll just ask if you have calculated those figures or not. If you have, you can very easily and clearly determine what axle spec, diameter and material, spline count etc is req'd. same for cw&p, locker, cv/s etc..... So you can factor in the cost versus safety margin you require.

My only concern was that potentially your combination of parts may not all be within the same margin of overhead, and could possibly leave you with a weak point, that may become the failure point - if - the safety margin is not 'enough'

Anyway, it sounds like you are on a path where you can choose from a selection of reliable commercially available parts which will provide you with the strength and reliability you need.

Let us know how it pans out. I'll be interested in how the build progresses. I had a desire for a hi-9 purely for the raised pinion, to provide better driveshaft angles, but the costs are prohibitive for a single net gain in my case.

In yours, I think you have more to gain with a carefully well-matched specification which has a reasonable margin of 'safety' above the max tq figure of your drivetrain.
Your last paragraph is pretty close. Make everything as strong as possible negating the need for any weak points. Really dont want to snap a stub or anything for that matter half way up a steep rocky high country hill!

Whilst I appreciate your input and also whilst your 10% comment may be true driving up a driveway, its way off in this application and its uses but lets not get into that.

This thread is designed to find a good solution to match a front coiler Rover or D2 housing to the strength of a 30/31 or 35spline Rear (I have 35spline rear diff to Drive Flange).

I highly recommend the LRA TruHi9 rear, if you are going to keep your Rangie for a long time, do it when you can.


To be honest I dont think this is reinventing the wheel too much, 30spline front has been done many times, A pegged rover diff with 30spline not so much or a front 9 in a rover coiler housing with 31/30 or 35/30 also not common, but still all things have been done if not in the same combo seperatly in some form.

Will let all know how I go this week

[blackrangie]

Would be intersted to hear from anyone who has, or has info on putting a Ford 9" into a complete rover coiler housing, force 9 style. Not half a 9 housing/half rover housing but a full rover housing. I have been told it can be done but only one ive seen is the Force 9.

Reason im interested is the front with an LSA and long travel etc doesnt have as much space like the rear so we may "have" to keep the housing 100% Rover Coiler.

[Slunnie]

LSA
I think "LSA" is a key word here. :D

[blackrangie]

I think "LSA" is a key word here. :D
Haha [emoji23]

[blackrangie]

At this stage its looking like the following in the stock RRC front housing

Off the shelf 30 spline side gears on an ARB or Jac Mac modded TJM Locker (he says better than ARB)

Pegged Ashcroft CW&P

30spline Hi Tough Axles
30/30 Toyota longfeilds
30spline 10bolt Hi Tough Flanges.