Hoses

[LGM]

All,

Here I sit reading all the good information on LR's and specifically D4's like my own. I bought my vehicle new in 2011 and have decided to keep it for a while yet. I travel around 35,000km per year and the vehicle is maintained to the schedule then some. All good! As an older school driver who has done my share of remote area travel over the years I have started to wonder about the longevity of some of the vehicles parts. This morning I am sat here thinking about coolant hoses. Back in the 'olden days' I would simply ask my vehicle mechanic to change out the top and bottom radiator hoses along with heater hoses so that I was not traveling around with 'old rubber' that has possibly reached its use by date. Not such an easy job now I reckon. Given that my vehicle is now 5 years old I am wondering what hoses my need to be changed out, if at all.
Am I over cautious??
What have others done...........yes I carry gaffa / mile a minute tape, and spare bit and pieces etc.etc.

Just wondering???? :confused:

Lindsay

[vee8auto]

5 years?.... I reckon you are still in the safe zone of the bath-tub curve for your hoses. We have a 10 year old D3 and the hoses look fine to me.

Signs of deterioration and imminent failure would be surface degradation/perishing/hairline splitting, as well as swelling at the hose ends. And I'm guessing you are seeing none of that. Having said that, its almost impossible to see some of the little hoses buried in the nether-regions.

Its fair to say that hose material and construction is much better these days.

[letherm]

5 years?.... I reckon you are still in the safe zone of the bath-tub curve for your hoses. We have a 10 year old D3 and the hoses look fine to me.

Signs of deterioration and imminent failure would be surface degradation/perishing/hairline splitting, as well as swelling at the hose ends. And I'm guessing you are seeing none of that. Having said that, its almost impossible to see some of the little hoses buried in the nether-regions.

Its fair to say that hose material and construction is much better these days.

Be careful about using visual inspection to decide. My mechanic told me that unlike the old rubber hoses the later ones don't necessarily show deterioration and can give way despite looking ok. I had a top hose fail on my Pajero before I bought the D4. Another hose at the bottom of the radiator went about a month later and I asked why. His explanation was that they don't replace all hoses as they can be ok and it means the customer is wasting money. In hindsight I would have said replace them all if I had known as I am the cautious type.:) It is of course a judgement call.

Martin

[sheerluck]

I replaced a set of hoses on a D3 in the last week, (for the 2.7 you have to buy a whole spaghetti hose and thermostat assembly), not because they were split or damaged, but because there had been excessive corrosion in the cooling system.

The hoses (from a 2008) had started to soften, but still showed no cracks. I would have been confident in leaving them on for a couple more years at least, if it hadn't been for the cooling system (and engine) issues.

[sheerluck]

For the 3.0 Lindsay, you can at least buy smaller subassemblies of hoses, so it's not such a big financial burden.

However, I reckon you'll be fine for a few years yet.

[BMKal]

Interesting post. I am currently losing coolant from somewhere beneath the reservoir on my 2012 D4 2.7 diesel. Not a lot at this stage, but enough to know that I have to fix it before venturing out of town.

At the moment, I can't see where it's coming from as the Traxide battery and tray is blocking access / vision to the area where I think the problem is. Will start to remove bits over the weekend and hopefully find the problem quickly, as I need to drive down to Perth in the next couple of weeks.

[sheerluck]

Take a close look at the coolant bottle itself. I've now seen 4 of those split along the seam.

[BMKal]

Take a close look at the coolant bottle itself. I've now seen 4 of those split along the seam.

Thanks Dave. Was thinking that myself. Have just pulled the Traxide battery / tray and headlight out to get a bit of access and I think I might be lucky this time. It appears to be the hose connection onto the bottle at the bottom nipple. Looks wet around the end of the hose, and I can see dripping coming from the bottom of the hose with a torch when the engine is running and for a short while after switching off. I'm hoping that the problem is just with the el-cheapo hose clamps that they use on just about everything these days. Will try replacing the clamp with a decent worm drive clamp (there's a box of them in the shed somewhere if I can find it). Hopefully, that should see the problem solved.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/895.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/o4xefnilt/)

Just to be on the safe side in the future though - I might order a new bottle and keep it in the shed "just in case".

[LGM]

Thanks Guy's.


As usual good info for me to work with and make a more informed decision. Given that I have a 6 week trip coming up towing the camper I was wondering. I guess I will also have a chat to my service agent as well. They have been really good to me over the years and I do trust their advice.


My D4 is a 3.0L and I like the idea of being able to replace the hoses over a period of time as has been suggested. I reckon I will commence that process over the next 12 months.


From what I have read there are some hoses that are almost impossible to reach....is that really true?

[BMKal]

Thanks Guy's.


From what I have read there are some hoses that are almost impossible to reach....is that really true?

There certainly are on the 2.7 diesel. :censored:

I guess the 3.0 will not be any easier. With another turbo crammed in there somewhere, I would imagine it to be an even tighter engine bay.

[sheerluck]

They are dead easy on the 2.7!

It took me less than 5 mins to change the entire hose assembly on the one last week.














Admittedly, the body was off, the radiator, aircon condenser and intercooler were out, and there was no engine in the way.
Don't know what you're complaining about.:angel:

[BMKal]

Thanks Dave. Was thinking that myself. Have just pulled the Traxide battery / tray and headlight out to get a bit of access and I think I might be lucky this time. It appears to be the hose connection onto the bottle at the bottom nipple. Looks wet around the end of the hose, and I can see dripping coming from the bottom of the hose with a torch when the engine is running and for a short while after switching off. I'm hoping that the problem is just with the el-cheapo hose clamps that they use on just about everything these days. Will try replacing the clamp with a decent worm drive clamp (there's a box of them in the shed somewhere if I can find it). Hopefully, that should see the problem solved.

Just to be on the safe side in the future though - I might order a new bottle and keep it in the shed "just in case".

Turned out not to be the hose / clamp either. I unbolted the reservoir and released all the brackets, and as I was lifting it out to access the bottom hose, I noticed that the side of the bottle closest to the radiator was wet. Started the engine again, and observed coolant weeping from the side of the bleed screw (cheap plastic crap) on top of the tank, and running down the side of the tank to the outlet hose at the bottom (which I had thought was the culprit). When I went to check that this screw was tight with a screwdriver, coolant started spurting out as soon as I touched it, and the top of the screw simply fell off. :mad:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/892.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/wxn3bhz0h/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/893.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/5zjkmo0dd/)

Guess I'm lucky to have found this in my shed at home and not half way down to Perth next week. http://www.jonrb.com/emoticons/mad2.gif

Anyway - a quick phone call to Steve at Lifestyle 4WD in Perth, and within less than an hour, he had a new complete reservoir express delivered to his workshop and placed it in the back of my son's ute, which was in his workshop having a new roller lock tonneau cover installed. And the price was way better than I expected - you can't get better service than that. Thanks Steve. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/480.jpg (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/facebook-smileys.html)

So - now to see if you can buy the bleeder screw as an individual item from Land Rover. If you can, I'll grab a couple - one to give me a complete spare reservoir / expansion tank, and another to reside in the glovebox as an emergency spare. Knowing my luck (and Land Rover) though, I'd hazard a bet that you have to buy the entire reservoir to get the bleeder screw. Steve informed me today that you cannot purchase the low fluid level sensor unit that is in the bottom of the reservoir as a separate part - you have to purchase the entire assembly. :mad:

[sheerluck]

You can buy both separately. The low coolant sensor is PCJ500030, and the bleed screw is LR055301.

[scarry]

Admittedly, the body was off, the radiator, aircon condenser and intercooler were out, and there was no engine in the way.
Don't know what you're complaining about.:angel:

OK,so you have to do all that,just to change the hoses:p:D:D;)

Dunno what they were thinking:mad:

[LandyAndy]

So you have got incontenece issues Brian,I spotted it in the bullbar thread:p:p:p:p:p

I replaced all the hoses in my D2,it was an expensive exercise and very hard on the knuckles.
I would buy the correct tool to do the clamps,long nose pliers and pinch pliers were my friends,but no where near ideal.I did use stainless worm drive clamps which added substantially to the bill.If you use them buy the flexible drive clamp tool the hoseclamp/radiator cap mob sell,awesome in those tight places.
Andrew

[jonesy63]

So you have got incontenece issues Brian,I spotted it in the bullbar thread:p:p:p:p:p
Careful Andrew - that wasn't coolant... it was the blood of the last person that insulted him! :D

[LandyAndy]

Careful Andrew - that wasn't coolant... it was the blood of the last person that insulted him! :D
Thats OK he sometimes turns up out of the blue here to get insulted:):):):):)
Goes OK for a silly olde farte:):):):):)
Andrew

[BMKal]

You can buy both separately. The low coolant sensor is PCJ500030, and the bleed screw is LR055301.

Thanks again Dave. Will order in a couple of the bleed screws and pick them up when I'm down in Perth in a couple of weeks. Any other "weak points" that you are aware of in the cooling system ?? :D

[BMKal]

So you have got incontenece issues Brian,I spotted it in the bullbar thread:p:p:p:p:p

I replaced all the hoses in my D2,it was an expensive exercise and very hard on the knuckles.
I would buy the correct tool to do the clamps,long nose pliers and pinch pliers were my friends,but no where near ideal.I did use stainless worm drive clamps which added substantially to the bill.If you use them buy the flexible drive clamp tool the hoseclamp/radiator cap mob sell,awesome in those tight places.
Andrew


Thats OK he sometimes turns up out of the blue here to get insulted:):):):):)
Goes OK for a silly olde farte:):):):):)
Andrew

I have a box of assorted stainless worm drive hose clamps in the shed courtesy of a past job when I was often replacing hoses on certain mining / processing equipment. Have already picked out one just right for the bottom hose. These have hex heads, so a small socket with extension arm and ratchet drive will do the job nicely.

I'll be down in Perth on 21st / 22nd having an MRI scan and visiting a neurosurgeon. Was thinking of possibly dropping down your way on the way home on the 23rd (Saturday) if you're going to be at home then. Will probably have SWMBO with me, so might see if there's a motel or something reasonable down that way where we could stay the night, and then head back to Kalgoorlie on the Sunday. Haven't had any decent insults thrown at me for a while, so must be overdue for a visit. :p:p:p

Must be about time you had a decent vehicle with the words "Land Rover" on the bonnet parked in your driveway again, instead of one of these new hipster models with a trendy name badge. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/879.jpg (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/skype-emoticons.html)

[sheerluck]

Thanks again Dave. Will order in a couple of the bleed screws and pick them up when I'm down in Perth in a couple of weeks. Any other "weak points" that you are aware of in the cooling system ?? :D

The water manifold that sits at the front of the valley (part number LR073372). Not seen a busted one myself, but I know there's a couple on here who have had a cooked engine as a result of it cracking.

[BMKal]

The water manifold that sits at the front of the valley (part number LR073372). Not seen a busted one myself, but I know there's a couple on here who have had a cooked engine as a result of it cracking.

Sounds scary. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/899.jpg (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/facebook-smileys.html) I think I'll order one of those as well. Thanks again. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/883.jpg (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/skype-emoticons.html)

[LandyAndy]

I have a box of assorted stainless worm drive hose clamps in the shed courtesy of a past job when I was often replacing hoses on certain mining / processing equipment. Have already picked out one just right for the bottom hose. These have hex heads, so a small socket with extension arm and ratchet drive will do the job nicely.

I'll be down in Perth on 21st / 22nd having an MRI scan and visiting a neurosurgeon. Was thinking of possibly dropping down your way on the way home on the 23rd (Saturday) if you're going to be at home then. Will probably have SWMBO with me, so might see if there's a motel or something reasonable down that way where we could stay the night, and then head back to Kalgoorlie on the Sunday. Haven't had any decent insults thrown at me for a while, so must be overdue for a visit. :p:p:p

Must be about time you had a decent vehicle with the words "Land Rover" on the bonnet parked in your driveway again, instead of one of these new hipster models with a trendy name badge. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/879.jpg (http://www.easyfreesmileys.com/skype-emoticons.html)

Williams Motel.There is a king single in Lindsays room,the cats own the bed in the other room:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:.Do have a camp bed we could use.
Andrew

[jonesy63]

The water manifold that sits at the front of the valley (part number LR073372). Not seen a busted one myself, but I know there's a couple on here who have had a cooked engine as a result of it cracking.

Speaking about the water outlet... I noticed the other day that TRS now have a metal replacement part. The price looks a bit :angel:

WATER OUTLET - Part Specials - Triumph Rover Spares South Australia (http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au/page.asp?parentid=5&parent2id=15&productid=1767)

[sheerluck]

I saw that a couple of weeks ago. I know $600 is cheaper than a new engine, but that's taking the mickey!

[LGM]

I had seen advice that suggested the water outlet should be changed out when the timing belt was done. So I did exactly that. Given that the front of the engine is basically apart for the belt replacement making the outlet easily accessible that's the time to do the job.

Mind you that was like for like, nothing fancy like the TRS thingy.

That part of the job added a whole $74.72+GST to the bill! Not material considering the overall cost. According to my service agent the plastic outlet that was removed looked to be O.K.

Lindsay

[LGM]

So 2 years have gone by since I started this particular thread.

As yet I have not replaced any coolant hoses but have again started to wonder about the longevity of these 'rubber' components. I am certainly giving the D4 a workout pulling a 3 tonne caravan around the countryside.

The vehicle is a 2011 HSE 3.0L which is 7 years old and has over 250,000km on the clock. It has been maintained better than the schedule asks for. It runs like a charm and I don't want to / cant afford to replace it!

Has anyone in AULRO land had issue with the coolant hoses that you reckon we need to be aware of?

Has anyone had any coolant hoses blow out due to age?

Just wondering:huh:

[DiscoJeffster]

Top hose failure is common from being cut by the engine cover. Refer to other active thread.
LR095544 | RADIATOR TOP HOSE - 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 4 | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/537128/5497/radiator_top_hose___3_0l_diesel___discovery_4)
It’s generally that and the outlet on the block - the same one the top hose connects to that cause issue (called the thermostat housing, yet has nothing to do with the thermostat, go figure).
LR073372 | THERMOSTAT + WATER OUTLET CONNECTION 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 3 + 4 + RANGE ROVER SPORT + L322 + JAG | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/478570/5497/thermostat___water_outlet_connection_3_0l_diesel__ __discovery_3___4___range_rover_sport___l322___jag )
Even when you go down to D3 which have many more years on them, I’m not seeing any listed hose failures.

I did find recently though, when changing an intake manifold, that the pcv pipe that connects to both rocker covers was brittle, split and broken.
LR013531 | OIL SEPARATOR PIPE TO TOP - 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 4 - RANGE ROVER SPORT + VOGUE | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/156596/5497/oil_separator_pipe_to_top___3_0l_diesel___discover y_4___range_rover_sport___vogue)

[LGM]

Top hose failure is common from being cut by the engine cover. Refer to other active thread.
LR095544 | RADIATOR TOP HOSE - 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 4 | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/537128/5497/radiator_top_hose___3_0l_diesel___discovery_4)
It’s generally that and the outlet on the block - the same one the top hose connects to that cause issue (called the thermostat housing, yet has nothing to do with the thermostat, go figure).
LR073372 | THERMOSTAT + WATER OUTLET CONNECTION 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 3 + 4 + RANGE ROVER SPORT + L322 + JAG | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/478570/5497/thermostat___water_outlet_connection_3_0l_diesel__ __discovery_3___4___range_rover_sport___l322___jag )
Even when you go down to D3 which have many more years on them, I’m not seeing any listed hose failures.

I did find recently though, when changing an intake manifold, that the pcv pipe that connects to both rocker covers was brittle, split and broken.
LR013531 | OIL SEPARATOR PIPE TO TOP - 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 4 - RANGE ROVER SPORT + VOGUE | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/156596/5497/oil_separator_pipe_to_top___3_0l_diesel___discover y_4___range_rover_sport___vogue)

DiscoJeffster many thanks for the detailed information.

I have discussed this with my LR service agent and they had noticed the hose rubbing and had made up and installed protection on the enginer cover a couple of services back. Some folks do care about their customers and are, in my opinion, really good at what they do!

I have decided to replace the top hose and hold onto the old one as a spare and will also replace the oil separator hose as a precautionary measure. Possibly overkill on my behalf but I would rather spend a 'few bob' in town in preference to that of a few thousand dollars in a remote area when things have failed.

[LGM]

In 2016 when I posted my original question re cooling system hose replacement most folks thought I'd be ok for a few more years. So it has proved to be the case! Then again in 2018 the question was repeated with a similar answer.
Now I pose the same question again albeit a bit tongue in cheek this time.
Just when is the time to replace the hoses......????
Has anyone else done this job on the SDV6?
If so what did it take in time and what did it cost?

Just asking!

LGM

[Eric SDV6SE]

Watching with interest, MY11 with 220000km on the odo now, all hoses are original, except for the lower turbo to intercooler and coolant outlet (which came with a replacement top hose and the little breather leg). Have never had any hose failures on these engines, have not heard of any either.

Preventative replacement is key, just wondering how close we are cutting it...

[Plane Fixer]

Watching with interest as I am at 290,000 but 95% of those k's are long distance.
About to set off to NSW alpine region and Vic high country for a break.

[LGM]

Watching with interest, MY11 with 220000km on the odo now, all hoses are original, except for the lower turbo to intercooler and coolant outlet (which came with a replacement top hose and the little breather leg). Have never had any hose failures on these engines, have not heard of any either.

Preventative replacement is key, just wondering how close we are cutting it...

Eric,
MY SDV6 D4 has 317,000+ kms on the clock and has wanted for nothing consequently the vehicle is in very good condition. I must admit though I have been tossing up on whether to keep the D4 or change it out. The dilemma is what would I change it out with?
The D4 is due the second timing belt etc. at 336,000km and may yet get that work done a little early. I was pondering over cooling hose replacement given that other bits and pieces will be out of the way during the timing belt work. I know that makes sense but it adds quite a bit to the cost and as always I hate spending the, nowadays, hard to come by loot!

I am hoping that someone on this forum has carried out the task and can advise!

LGM

[BradC]

Watching with interest, MY11 with 220000km on the odo now, all hoses are original, except for the lower turbo to intercooler and coolant outlet (which came with a replacement top hose and the little breather leg). Have never had any hose failures on these engines, have not heard of any either.

I've had 2 so far on my MY08, neither catastrophic. First was small hose from radiator to supplementary fuel cooler radiator. Second was inlet host to EGR coolers just in behind the fan. In both cases they developed pinhole leaks. The first just dripped. The second sprayed a fine mist of coolant into the fan discharge coating everything and making it frustratingly difficult to find.

[LGM]

I did discuss my thoughts re cooling system hose longevity with my Land Rover service agent and was advised that they have not seen much in the way of D4 cooling system hose failures. That said, I do have one of the highest km D4's that they service.

I have summarised their comments to me below.

Changing all the hoses could cost as much as $3k, it would be cheaper if the body ever needs to come off for some other reason.


Recommend replacing the hose assembly with the thermostat in it, it’s one of the hoses where we see fail on a rare occasion.


Also the top pipe circled, due to corrosion / leaking screw which is not sold separate.


To do these with the timing belt would cost an extra $1000 approx.


What they suggested to me is shown in the screen shot they sent to me (attached). Spaghetti Junction from the look of it! As it turns out I was reminded that one hose had been replaced as a precaution due to it being 'scuffed' by the engine cover rubbing on it. That particular issue has been fixed I might add.

On occasions I have been present whilst they were doing a 'standard' service for me and watched as they pressure tested the cooling system and checked for leaks and other issues both from above and below the vehicle.

The coolant water outlet in the engine 'V' has been replaced previously, at the last timing belt change, and will be replaced again with my next timing belt change as per the the service agents advice.

I was also wondering given that I live in a rural area and my vehicle does a lot of highway Km's with the shortest trip being 13 km each way to the 'local' shops, would the fact that the engine is always getting up to full operating temperature have any bearing the hose life??

[DiscoJeffster]

I’ve had the top screw snap and leak on the top pipe as you refer to it. Was a $30 unit from LR to replace entirely.

The left hand one is common to replace where the engine cover rubs - cut back the cover, new hose, good for a long time.

One that gets forgotten is the block outlet that’s on the side of the engine that’s plastic and prone to crumble. Pain to get to.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I’ve had the top screw snap and leak on the top pipe as you refer to it. Was a $30 unit from LR to replace entirely.

The left hand one is common to replace where the engine cover rubs - cut back the cover, new hose, good for a long time.

One that gets forgotten is the block outlet that’s on the side of the engine that’s plastic and prone to crumble. Pain to get to.

That same plastic screw is the one that Daxza TD5 recommends to replace with a brass fitting. 5 bucks from SCA.