Number of teeth on HP fuel pump Disco 3

[Journeytower]

I understand that the number of teeth on the high pressure fuel pump on Disco 3 diesel 2.7 can be ascertained by the VIN number. Can someone help with this please.

[sheerluck]

That's correct. If your D3 is a MY06 or older (Up to VIN 6A999999) then it is an EU3 engine and needs the 85 tooth belt.

MY07 (VIN 7A000001 onwards) and newer are EU4 and need the 82 tooth belt.

[justinc]

Don't forget the early ones that may have had the pump recall done. Had one of those earlier this year so now keep both fp belts in stock.

Jc

[Journeytower]

Thanks heaps guys, I really appreciate the information & advice. Mine is an 7A439 VIN number so it would be the 82 teeth jobby. I'm guessing they did this to increase the pump speed & therefore the fuel pressure slightly.
What do you reckon the chances of this VIN model having the later model oil pump ? I guess the only way to be sure is to remove the timing belt tensioner so I can get a look at the pump casting, I'd really like to not have to undo that crank bolt because I've already found it is a very tight thing & I'm nowhere near as strong as I remember I was.

[sheerluck]

Unfortunately you have zero chance of it having the later model oil pump, unless you or someone else has already paid for a replacement.

It is possible to loosen the timing cover enough to get a borescope type camera in. Have the belts not been changed yet?

[Journeytower]

No the belts have not been changed. I bought it on the understanding that the belts had been changed but when looking through a swag of receipts there was none for timing belts. Serpentine belt, Yes. That manure thing happens. The auto has had the modified pan & service though . I can't take the chance with the lack of evidence & am in the process of replacing them. I'm a long way into it & it's not really as bad as talked about (so far) even though I am doing it on the floor. All the bits & pieces certainly add up though. I may well have a couple of useful tools for cheap hire once I'm done to help others out if this would be useful.

[Plane Fixer]

If you need a hand I am just up in Coffs See PM for contact details.

[sheerluck]

No the belts have not been changed. I bought it on the understanding that the belts had been changed but when looking through a swag of receipts there was none for timing belts. Serpentine belt, Yes. That manure thing happens. The auto has had the modified pan & service though . I can't take the chance with the lack of evidence & am in the process of replacing them. I'm a long way into it & it's not really as bad as talked about (so far) even though I am doing it on the floor. All the bits & pieces certainly add up though. I may well have a couple of useful tools for cheap hire once I'm done to help others out if this would be useful.

Can't argue with that sentiment at all.

The timing belt itself is a doddle to change. Getting the starter motor out to get the locking tool in.......what a pain in the rear.

And the rear pump belt is tricky only because you're doing it blind. If you had full sight of it, it would take maybe 5 mins.

Hope the rest of it goes well.

[Journeytower]

If you need a hand I am just up in Coffs See PM for contact details.

Thanks for that Plane Fixer, I'm going o/k so far & hoping to overcome loosening the crankshaft bolt this morning. In hindsight I should have got all the ancillaries out of the way, put my long breaker bar on he bolt & hit the starter once like I've done multiple times in the past to different engines. Too long off the tools & behind the phone & desk. I think I'll write a brief when I finish of the process, if that's permitted on the forum, as to the steps & suggestions I have in doing this job as no-one mentions the crank bolt if needing to replace the oil pump. I didn't think removing the starter was as difficult as described, you just need to go steady & look carefully & avoid getting the you know whats & wishing you had a designer here to jam under the car. Would be much easier on a hoist. I couldn't see the PM from you & not sure yet how to do it from my end, got other more joyful things to do today !! than work it out just now. But thanks, will catch up.

[Journeytower]

Thanks for the tips & encouragement Sheerluck, encouragement is always good.
I suddenly worked out the PM business, an achievement for the day already :D

[Graeme]

Use a length of pipe over the handle of your breaker bar with the crank locking pin fitted rather than use the starter to turn the crank. However a 3/4" breaker and socket may be preferable. You should be using a torque wrench to tighten the bolt so will need to do that by hand anyway.

Are you aware that a new crank bolt is required to be fitted?

[justinc]

DO NOT USE THE STARTER TO TRY AND LOOSEN THE CRANK BOLT!!
A new engine will most likely be rquired because IF yhe bolt does come loose (unlikely) then the crank gear will rotate and allow piston to valve contact.

There is no keyway on the crankshaft.

And yes make sure that you use a new crank bolt.

Jc

[Journeytower]

Thanks Graeme & Justinc, I discovered the no keyway on the crank pulley when I got it off with a pneumatic rattle gun after I had the shaft locked with the timing tool & yes it could have been disastrous. I managed to lock the flex plate in another position as well by removing another inspection plug at the bottom of the bellhousing & gaining access to another hole in the flexplate thereby spreading the load. I was a little concerned with using the timing tool alone on the flex plate to lock it up with the tension of the crank bolt in case of damaging the flex plate or the tool.