L322 Rear Tailshaft Removal and Refurbishment

[Homestar]

Ok, thought I'd start a new thread on this as it's got bigger than I expected, and there's a few things that aren't quite as simple as I would have first thought.

The Clunk as I've described in the other thread was the centre bearing on the rear tailshaft failing - the pictures tell the wholestory - the rubber surround has perished, allowing movement of the taileshaft which has distorted the ring that holds everything and the steel has work hardened and cracked - looks like one side failed some time ago, and the big bang the other night was the whole lot going to god.

Removal of the shaft was a bit more problematic that I expected, but now I know what I know, it would take me 10 minutes next time so I hope I can pass this on so anyone else having to do this will benefit from my swearing.

There are 2 covers - actually heat shields - that cover over 95% of the rear tailshaft - the front heat shield closest to the transfer casecomes off easily - you'll just need a 10mm socket on a long extension bar or 2 to do this - 2 of the nuts are located very high in the tunnel.

Once this is removed you can access the centre bearing (just). The front flange is held on by 6x bolts with torx E12 heads. The rear flange that bolts to the diff uses 6 x bolts with 16mm nuts. The centre bearing is held by 2 x 13mm nuts.

Now, this is where I got caught - I couldn't get the tailshaft to move off the back of the diff and it was only after a lot ofswearing I realised there is a relief machined into the side of the flange to stick a big screwdriver into to lever it out - there's one on each side - simple once I found these, but it's dark in that area, and only just enough room to work.

Oh, just on that - the back heat shield cannot be removed without first removing the entire exhaust system, which is why I am working around it - there is just enough room to do this, so at least the designers thought about it a bit.

Pics of the tailshaft, shagged centre bearing carrier, etc.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111446d1468642904-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-img_2522.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111447d1468642920-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-img_2523.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111448d1468642932-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-img_2524.jpg

What's left of the centre bearing - it still turns fine as the bearing itself is a sealed roller bearing, but there's nothing left to support it.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111451d1468642964-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-img_2527.jpg

And where to lever the damn flanges from - wish I'd seen these earlier.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111455d1468643242-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-slot.jpg

[Homestar]

Ok, so now the tailshaft is out, 2 things need to happen - the first is to replace the centre bearing and the second is to replace the uni joint in the middle. Neither of these jobs are as straight forward as I would have liked.

Ok, the centre bearing just requires the tailshaft to be split in 2 - there's a bolt that holds them together behind the unit joint - easy enough to remove - it's 18mm and comes out with a bit of effort - it had a lot of loctite on it. Once that and the washer are out the way, you can see that the 2 parts connect via a spline, this is where it got interesting as they are stuck fast!

The only way to press them apart is to remove the uni joint first - more on that in a minute. Once the 2 bits are apart, then the old bearing will come off no dramas - this will be self-explanatory once you get this far. The centre bearing is readily available in Aus from multiple suppliers which leads me to think I'm not the first one to have this problem. I will have that on Monday.

Now to the Uni Joint. While it was not destroyed like I first thought, it definitely needs replacing - there is a small amount of play in it, but worse than that, is that it binds quite badly - when in use, the shaft is almost straight the entire time, so the uni only moves a tiny amount which I think is what has caused the wear in a very small arc and caused the issues it has.

Anyway, this is where the real work starts as it's deemed not serviceable by Land Rover and the Uni joint itself is not available as a spare part - it is also staked in the yolks, not clipped. The prices I have been quoted for a whole new shaft are between $800 to $1,400, so obviously I'm happy to stuff around a bit here and rebuild this one.

Soooo, onto the next job - which will happen tomorrow so I'll post more pics then - is to remove the uni joint and find a replacement. Now, replacing staked uni joints with serviceable items isn't difficult - a lot of Japanese vehicles in the 80's and 90's used these and I've done them before - once the stakes are broken out, the uni can be removed like a standard unit. The replacement items need to have a spring clip fitted to the inside of the cup. While this isn't the place to start if you've never done uni joints, it's not that much harder, you just need to find the right replacement.

I've copied a bit of data from Hardy Spicer catalogue so you can see what I mean and also the unit that I think I'll need - it's attached below.

As I haven't got it out yet, the measurements I've taken are only rough, but they line up almost perfectly with a couple of readily available items. The cup diameter measures bang on 25mm - a very common size, and the internal spring clip dimension where they will have to sit as best as I can measure is around 44 to 45mm - the B2 dimension of 44mm is a common size by the looks of it. You need an R1 style cap to make all this work - I'll take plenty of pics when I do this so you all understand what I mean.

Oh, and the rose joints on each end of the shaft are in very good condition - again, they do almost nothis as the shaft stays almost dead straight the whole time.


So, tomorrow I'll remove the old Uni joint and clean everything up and I'll press the yoke off the shaft in preparation for the new centre bearing. When the new unit joint is in, I'll make a small hole in the heat shield so a grease gun can be inserted to grease it periodically. Should be able to make it last forever then.

Lots of fun to be had - I know the new owner who is buying this off me will be watching closely so I better get this right huh? :D

A couple of pics ofthe tailshaft and uni joint.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111457d1468644392-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-img_2529.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l322-range-rover/111458d1468644408-l322-rear-tailshaft-removal-refurbishment-img_2531.jpg

[Homestar]

So, now I'm sitting here thinking about all this, I'm just wondering how many vehicles there are out there with perished rubber around the centre bearings? Despite there being a heat shield there, the centre bearing is only about 40mm away from the exhaust pipe that runs right down the tunnel just below the tailshaft. There's plenty of these on the road that have done way more KM than this one...

If your Rangie has a noise in the driveline - particularly when you first take off from a stand still - I'd be advising you check this before it leaves you stranded. Not a 5 minute job, but for under $150 in parts and a bit of time, well worth the effort maybe.

[Homestar]

Ok, took the tailshaft to my mates workshop this morning to disassemble everything in preparation for the new parts, and to measure up the uni joint accurately to see which one I need.

As this is a bit of a how to, I'll describe the steps for those that haven't done a unit joint before - they aren't hard to do, but a bit of knowledge will help you from buggering up the shaft - which is quite possible if you're not careful and go wailing on the wrong parts with your big arse hammer...

Which gets me to my first point - if you have a press, use it - it is HEAPS easier to do this way and you're less likely to damage anything. If/when you have to put the shaft in a vice - only hold it by the yolk, or the weld where it is attached to the tube - DO NOT hold the shaft by the tube - the smallest dint in it WILL cause it to vibrate like a bitch and it will weaken it. If you're unsure - take it to a Mechanic that has done these before, not just any old joe blogs guy - they will also probably **** it for you.

So, onto some pics. Using the press and a drift, press a cup down until it dislodges the one opposite and drives it down into the plate - this breaks the stakes off - no need to try and grind these off first - it doesn't take much to do this. Once it's pressed completely one way, flip it over 180 degrees and press the whole lot the other way to break the stakes on the other side.

Ok, so this is what it looks like before anything's happened.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111485&stc=1&d=1468720658

How I set it up in the press.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111486&stc=1&d=1468720658

Once pressed through, and spun around, you can see the cap has moved.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111487&stc=1&d=1468720658

From here, it was over to the vice to knock the opposing yolk one way then the other a couple of times until the old needles drop and help force the caps further out - when they are most of the way out, the cross of the uni can be removed and the caps pressed out completely if they haven't already fallen out.

The shaft is now in 2 bits and the second yoke can be done the same way.

Next post will be some pics of what I found once it was all apart. :)

[Tombie]

Nice write up Gav...

[Homestar]

Ok, now you should have 2 parts of the shaft, the cross and the 4 caps of the uni joint - and about 100 needles all over the floor. :D

Oh, I forgot to mention a MUST DO when pulling apart any driveshaft like this - is to mark it so everything goes back in the same orientation - the yoke that is splined to one shaft, and how the shafts lined up with each other. I use 2 small centre punch marks - they won't wipe off like a paint pen can, and being 2 marks on each part, there won't be any confusion with other dings that may be present in the parts. The 2 pics below show where I've marked everything - all in a line.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111489&stc=1&d=1468721126
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111490&stc=1&d=1468721126

Ok, now it's all apart, here's everything laying them out on the bench, and what I found...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111491&stc=1&d=1468721396

Not pretty - dry as a bone, rust everywhere and heavy brinellng on all trunnions. While I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, I do wonder how many other people are running around with shafts in similar condition...

That just left one more thing to pull apart - the yoke off the shaft that the centre bearing runs on - it is on a spline that the yoke slides onto. Now, here's where you will definitely need a press - it took just over 10 tonnes to shift this - not over the top by any stretch, but not something you will manage at home with a hammer and vice. Once that was off, I split the bearing race off the shaft and cleaned everything up ready for the new parts.

A quick note on that - make sure you deburr all the edges where the bearing cups will be reinstalled - with the stakes being broken off, the edges are pretty rough and so need a bit of attention - a half moon file will make short work of it but make sure you DON'T touch the surfaces where the cups will sit - these are precision machined and the last thing you want is to have the cups being loose in the yoke.

The yoke off the spline - there's a small spacer there as well - don't lose this and put it back where you got it! :D
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111492&stc=1&d=1468721817

[Homestar]

Ok, last part was to accurately measure everything up - my guestimates yesterday were a bit out, but I think I've found a suitable part.

With the caps off, they measured up at exactly 24.00mm. The yoke's a tiny bit under as they are a press fit.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111494&stc=1&d=1468722597
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111495&stc=1&d=1468722625

The main faces where the snap rings will live were 48mm.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111496&stc=1&d=1468722736

So, with these measurements and based on the Hardy Spicer catalogue - there's a part that should fit a treat - a replacement for a staked uni from a Mazda. Good to see that Land Rover in all their wisdom didn't make something as a one off (Probably because the BMW engineers were involved. :D)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111497&stc=1&d=1468723467

I'll hunt one down tomorrow and install it Tuesday night - I'll report back on its fitment, etc.

[p38arover]

That's a lot smaller than a standard LR UJ. I just measured one and it's 27mm vs your 24.

[Homestar]

Yes, it is the size you'd expect on a car, not a heavy 4WD, but it's held up for 13 years. Given that it doesn't move bugger all, it's transferring its power in a straight line - is probably why it's fine in this application.

The part number for the TD6 and V8 tailshaft is identical so it's common to both models and must have been deemed up to the task (like the transmission... ;))

[p38arover]

Yes, it is the size you'd expect on a car, not a heavy 4WD, but it's held up for 13 years. Given that it doesn't move bugger all, it's transfering its power in a straight line - is probably why it's fine in this application.

Good point.


The part number for the TD6 and V8 tailshaft is identical so it's common to both models and must have been deemed up to the task (like the transmission... ;))

Now that's good to know. There was one near here on ebay. I thought of buying it to rebuild but it was for a Td6. I never got around to checking MicroCat.

[Tombie]

Also the benefit of sharing power fore and aft constantly.

[justinc]

Great info and tutorial Gav!☺☺

Jc

[LandyAndy]

Yes, it is the size you'd expect on a car, not a heavy 4WD, but it's held up for 13 years. Given that it doesn't move bugger all, it's transferring its power in a straight line - is probably why it's fine in this application.

The part number for the TD6 and V8 tailshaft is identical so it's common to both models and must have been deemed up to the task (like the transmission... ;))

Gav
Remember the drive is shared with the front too.
AWESOME write up.
Well Done:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

[Homestar]

Yes, they share the load, but so do the uni joints on my 101 from 1977 ot my RRC from 1986...

They both have heaps bigger joints, and both are considerably lighter vehicles, but both of those vehicles also ask a lot more of the uni joints as well as far as movement is concerned - particularly the 101! :D

The repair should last a lot longer than the original as this one will be greaseable. The new owner will certainly be able to rest easy about this. :)

[Homestar]

Got the parts today, the Uni joint was quite expensive at $100 but much cheaper than a new driveshaft. ;). From the couple of phone calls I made, there may be a cheaper version out there, but certainly no one that stocks one - Bursons said they could look at sourcing one, but my timeframe wouldn't allow this - Hardy Spicer in Sunshine had 4 on the shelf, and were excellent to deal with.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/385.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/D02A266E-E8A4-4425-9F31-F766D5ED645C_zpsdybybf1d.jpg.html)

Uni joint installed easiy and will work well - there's always that wave of relief when the final cup reaches the correct spot and you know for sure that you haven't dropped a needle in one of the caps. :D (been there, done that...). Snap rings sit in the right spot and there is no lateral play - it feels like it was made for it. The cups sit slightly lower than the originals, but the cup is fully supported along its whole length - the yoke is quite deep and the original was supported in a slightly different location. The needles and trunnions are the same size.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/386.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/A3654B29-B2BC-4A1C-B330-1FD26C0D0EF7_zpsp6lznqcj.jpg.html)

New centre bearing installed and ready to go.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/387.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/921A99A5-4EA1-46D1-8E11-D3A4B8C4D5AB_zpswxxsqgio.jpg.html)

The uni joint is now fully greased, and the whole shaft is reassembled ready for installation, but it was too dark to do this by the time I was ready, so hopefully installed tomorrow and test driven. :)

All in all, not a difficult fix - only an hours work from start to finish once the shaft was out.

[Graeme]

I note that from MY07 the tailshaft is only shown as 1-piece in Microcat but may still be able to be dismantled.

[Homestar]

Everything's back together now. Just one more tip for players at home. Once the driveshaft is back in and all the bolts - including the centre bearing nuts - are in position but still loose, tighten the 2 ends of the driveshaft first before tightening the centre bearing into position. There is no movement in the shaft end to end like on live axle vehicles so leaving the centre bearing until last will ensure that it isn't any strain on it one way or the other.

I have test driven the vehcile and everything is smooth and quiet once more. :)

Just waiting on the Mechanic to call me back so I can get it back for its RWC.

[Homestar]

Just a quick update - I've done about 300KM now with the rebuilt tailshaft. Everything is smooth and silent. No vibration at any speed up to prolonged highway work at 115KPH. One blat a lot faster than that just to check everything - all good. :)

So, the entire arse end of this vehcile is pretty much new now. Should be good for another 200,000KM!

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Great Job Gav,,:cool:

[Cperkins357]

Nice thread. Very helpful for those of us who don't mind turning a wrench every now and then.

[theelms66]

I pickup up a s/hand tailshaft from a english wrecker in ringwood for $110 said he had heaps .mine had a broken cage in the cv joint

[NUTTTR]

To dig this up...

Got my propshaft out and it feels like the front CV on the rear propshaft is binding...

The rear CV isn't much better, but the universal is perfect, very smooth... The centre bearing is also mostly fine (feels a bit loose, isn't torn...but other than that it is fine).

I'm going to try and see if a local place can service it...but is there any other option? Has anyone had this happen??

[theelms66]

What symptoms are you experiencing?. I had mine out because of a damaged boot . They do bind if you are not precise with keeping the angle consistent. There isn't a lot to go wrong with them but having said that if you tear it down, damage if any will be quite visible.
Also I dont think spares are available. I used my polaris ATV cv boot and fencing wire for a circlip.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/35861a9a4457dcaa4863955b9e499711.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/21d73c075739ea87f0445dcca84fa1d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/0a6c31c8d7c67df40d69d7b73f752598.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/70ac6557034f7a1249ac9ede6e576c36.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/db9ad61f7f3aec1e64730b751f93f933.jpg

[Homestar]

When I did this repair, the CV’s were fine - I don’t recall any binding but maybe I wasn’t looking too hard as the centre bearing was the culprit on mine. The CV’s don’t have much of an angle on them in use so I’d be surprised if they were worn but not sure how many KM your vehicle has either. While I highly doubt parts are available from the usual suppliers as these shafts are ‘not repairable’ according to LR if they are worn, go have a chat to Hardy Spicer with the bits - they may have a similar item that can be used, modified or cannibalised to repair it.

[NUTTTR]

What symptoms are you experiencing?. I had mine out because of a damaged boot . They do bind if you are not precise with keeping the angle consistent. There isn't a lot to go wrong with them but having said that if you tear it down, damage if any will be quite visible.
Also I dont think spares are available. I used my polaris ATV cv boot and fencing wire for a circlip.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/35861a9a4457dcaa4863955b9e499711.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/21d73c075739ea87f0445dcca84fa1d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/0a6c31c8d7c67df40d69d7b73f752598.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/70ac6557034f7a1249ac9ede6e576c36.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/db9ad61f7f3aec1e64730b751f93f933.jpg


I've got 211k km on it... I've always had some form of vibration since I got it in August, only really once it got hot, i.e. 30mins driving... It'd start vibrating more, but still only minor.

It started getting worse over a few drives recently to the point it was properly shaking sometimes (minor vibration at freeway speeds but quite a lot at 2k rpm taking off, etc. I expected the UJ to be rooted, but it is perfect, in fact, it looks new (can still see yellow bushing on the arms of the centre!)... The centre bearing is also in very good condition, it has a little more/aft play, but all the rubber is there and it's stiff.

The propshaft to rear diff CV handles angles much better and only binds in extreme... But the front one binds at a few degrees and if you tilt it halfway through the available movement it almost jams...

I've started just scooping the grease out and trying some fresh stuff in to see if it'll help reduce the binding at all, but some of the grease definitely appears a little magnetic so I'm suspecting something is badly worn inside... So I'm going to have to pull it apart... Do I need a puller to remove it?

I'm firstly just trying to put some fresh grease in to see if it's less bind-y and if it is, I'll proceed to clean it out... If it's still binding then I guess new CV... Unless it isn't available, in which case, wrecker tailshaft???

[Edit - also my grease is a bit runnier and blacker than what you had in yours... Not sticky enough to stay all by itself...]

[theelms66]

Yes cv grease is a lot lighter than normal grease. Remember the front cv needs little angle as the centre bearing keeps it there,the rear cv may run at more angle but not sure.
There is a circlip on the shaft spline that will allow you to remove the cv from the tailshaft.
Swivel cage to get balls to drop out, give it a good wash and inspect parts. NB. Pay attention how she comes apart.

[NUTTTR]

Yes cv grease is a lot lighter than normal grease. Remember the front cv needs little angle as the centre bearing keeps it there,the rear cv may run at more angle but not sure.
There is a circlip on the shaft spline that will allow you to remove the cv from the tailshaft.
Swivel cage to get balls to drop out, give it a good wash and inspect parts. NB. Pay attention how she comes apart.

Interesting. I thought it was stickier! Thanks, at least I'm ready to do the next extremely messy step!

The front CV definitely has a bit of angle in it, but it isn't much. I'm very surprised it is binding...I expected it to be perfect

[FisherX]

So it's my time now to refurb my rear propshaft.

It was ok with just a little shudder on take off before I had some tyres fitted and now it's much worse.

I checked it out and yes my centre bearing is toast.

The V8s must be a bit different cause I'll have to drop the exhaust to get the heat shields out of the way. Not a problem I need to fix a leak anyway.

The crazy thing is how much the RUJ-1701 uni is worth.

[NUTTTR]

So it's my time now to refurb my rear propshaft.

It was ok with just a little shudder on take off before I had some tyres fitted and now it's much worse.

I checked it out and yes my centre bearing is toast.

The V8s must be a bit different cause I'll have to drop the exhaust to get the heat shields out of the way. Not a problem I need to fix a leak anyway.

The crazy thing is how much the RUJ-1701 uni is worth.

The BMW folk have found that binding CV (Transmission side) is causing the wobble which causes CB to flog out...

Obviously in this thing we have multiple CV and a UJ, but still.

My UJ is perfect, like, really perfect. The CB is pretty good... The front CV is definitely totally rooted. I was going to try and clean it out and regrease and save it, but I'm so sure that's a lost cause now I'm going to wait till tomorrow to see if I can get parts for it or not.

On the plus side, you can get non-genuine CV of the right size (I believe) and spline count for about 130... Or get genuine from FCPEuro for about 250usd... That's a brand new genuine CV to fit the trans side. (I'm waiting to see if local suppliers have the actual big CV or not available... otherwise I might get a used shaft and try my luck...)

Now with the heat shield (I have a v8), you can take them off by bending/force without dropping the exhaust, it's tight, but they will rebend pretty easily as they are only thing metal sheets. I just went for it and bent them about to get it all out. I'm considering dropping the exhaust a little to get them back in, just to make it easier, but I'll cross that bridge once I try and get them back in!

[FisherX]

I was looking at these for the drive shaft if I need them.

Rear Axle Joint Kit, Drive Shaft Suit LAND ROVER Range Rover L322 SUV 4.4 4x4 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Axle-Joint-Kit-Drive-Shaft-Suit-LAND-ROVER-Range-Rover-L322-SUV-4-4-4x4/283935900057?hash=item421be60199:g:ohEAAOSwOWde~x2 8)

[NUTTTR]

I was looking at these for the drive shaft if I need them.

Rear Axle Joint Kit, Drive Shaft Suit LAND ROVER Range Rover L322 SUV 4.4 4x4 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Axle-Joint-Kit-Drive-Shaft-Suit-LAND-ROVER-Range-Rover-L322-SUV-4-4-4x4/283935900057?hash=item421be60199:g:ohEAAOSwOWde~x2 8)

That looks like the rear driveshaft, not propshaft, CV joint. I ran into that terminology issue tooz you are looking for the tailshaft or propshaft CV.

I haven't opened up my diff end CV... It is binding a little, but only at extremes (that it should never hit), but if they have the big one available then I'll get the other one done too (it's smaller at ~100mm so is probably available).

[NUTTTR]

Further, I believe this is the one I need for the front CV:

Driveshaft CV Joint Kit fits 2003-2018 BMW M3/M5/M6 108mm x 34 Spl 26112282725 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Driveshaft-CV-Joint-Kit-fits-2003-2018-BMW-M3-M5-M6-108mm-x-34-Spl-26112282725-/153943170257?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292)

I'm pretty sure that's it...

[NUTTTR]

Good news!

Took the shaft to a proper drive shaft shop...

The front CV isn't binding, it just has 0 plunge and is a "fixed" type CV, so seems like lining up the centre bearing so there's no load on it forwards/backwards is critical... It has been pulled down and checked and it looks great inside.

The bearing in the centre bearing is toast (float and loose), although the rubber looks perfect (lucky i had a new one ready to go)

The rear CV (100mm, i have no idea how many splines... but i assume 32 since the X5 has the same sized CV on the diff end of its setup) is "worn" but not "dead" - he's going to pull it down and see how bad, or if he can replace it...

So, assuming it's not a rare CV i might be back in business tomorrow (then i can share the part numbers)... Replacing the CV's yourself isn't hard once you have the parts, but he's knowledgeable and willing to help, so i'm using that while i can!

[FisherX]

That's good news,

I've just bit the bullet and ordered a new complete driveshaft from Hardy Spicer for $800. Just for the uni and the CB I was looking at nearly $300 anyway and with the CVs an unknown I'll just change the whole thing.

Also it's my work car so I can't be off the road for weeks waiting on parts.

[NUTTTR]

That's good news,

I've just bit the bullet and ordered a new complete driveshaft from Hardy Spicer for $800. Just for the uni and the CB I was looking at nearly $300 anyway and with the CVs an unknown I'll just change the whole thing.

Also it's my work car so I can't be off the road for weeks waiting on parts.

They sell them locally do they? 800 isn't too bad... I suspect it's going to cost 300 for mine to be sorted...

Edit - just checked The r catalogue....yup! They do sell one... interesting! What's the lead time on it?

Edit 2 - spoke with the company and they repacked both CVs, nothing worn on the rear one either, but repacked with grease and it's smooth now apparently, so maybe 17yr old grease had broken down a bit??? Hopefully I get to reinstall it tomorrow!

[FisherX]

Yep they had 3 "LR-TVB00450" on the shelf in Melbourne. $820.71 with delivery to Hervey Bay from Melbourne and should be here near the end of the week.

I was pretty happy with the price. I expected the price to be well over a grand. When I called them to check the prices I had it in my mind if it was less than a grand I would grab one, over a grand I would order the parts from them.

[NUTTTR]

Great! That's not bad at all!

[NUTTTR]

So, all back together.

You can remove both heat shields without removing the exhaust...it just needs some bending of them and they bend back easily and fit back perfectly afterwards with some manipulation.

I've been out with the go pro trying to record what is going on as even though I had both CV's checked, cleaned and repacked, it's definitely still vibrating. Not as bad as before, but still not great. I assume a new CV means it's not transferring the energy as much.

I've now checked everything I can to try and work out what is vibrating.

The front half of the driveshaft doesn't appear to vibrate (as much as a go pro can tell you!)
The front propshaft (to front diff) seems smooth
The diff doesn't seem to vibrate at all
Neither rear driveshaft exhibits any vibrations
The rear half of the propshaft appears to vibrate and has a high pitched constant "tink, tink, tink, tink, tink" sound as it rotates when driving forward. When going backwards it's silent.

So, despite being repacked and checked, there must be enough wear in it to cause this. Unfortunately it seems like the rear CV is 99.5mm...according to Hardy's specs... I'm tempted to see if I can get a new joint and deal with it that way... Or I could follow step from above and throw money in the wind and order a whole shaft...hmmm

[NUTTTR]

Here's an interesting view... I might make more of these... With a healthy propshaft next time!



https://youtu.be/3MvmVD8wJ6M

[theelms66]

Here's an interesting view... I might make more of these... With a healthy propshaft next time!



https://youtu.be/3MvmVD8wJ6MHave you considered diff pinion bearing?

[NUTTTR]

Have you considered diff pinion bearing?

I had not actually... The camera in this short was right next to the CV, still very close to the diff...I recorded another one with the camera mounted under the diff right near the input shaft and didn't get any noise, or vibration.

I do currently get a "binding" sensation from the rear diff when turning full lock in dead ends...

[Edit - I should add that I changed the diff oil before filming today... It wasn't bad, it was golden, zero anything on the drain plug. Unfortunately I used an oil tray that was already a bit dirty, but I saw nothing shiny/metallic at all. It was mildly golden and I didn't clean the tray out with degreaser afterwards and the garage now smells of diff oil...]

[FisherX]

I received my new propshaft from Hardy Spicer on Friday and fitted it Friday night.

I had a bit of an exhaust leak anyway so I dropped the exhaust to check it out and get at the propshaft. My old prop shaft CB was toast but the other joints looked and felt fine. The Hardy Spicer doesn't come with the rear CV studs fitted, but they knock out and in the new CV easily enough. It was a lot easier than I expected with the hardest part was refitting the exhaust by myself just because it's pretty heavy.

The shudder when accelerating has gone as has the exhaust leak, so all is good. Well it was for about 2km then the brake pad warning came on, so pads are next.

[NUTTTR]

Nice one. After I spent some time videoing under the car (which produces a very interesting view of the car for sure!) I'm fairly certain the rear CV or the Uni is toast... The Uni is very smooth out of the car, but maybe under load it's binding, likewise the rear CV... Not sure yet.

I'm fairly confident the issue is the driveshaft CV.

So, I ordered a new tailshaft! Had to negotiate HS down... He said he'd do it for 1200... I'm the end he did it for $870, so it's worth trying to get it down.

It's actually a very easy job, I did it over the kerb/dip in the drive with suspension on full height, just chucked a couple stands under the car as the air suspension can have a mind of its own sometimes.

Once mine arrives I'll swap it over and hope that I was right... The videos I got indicated both rear wheels/driveshafts are not vibrating, confirmed (when mounted to the diff housing itself) that the diff wasn't vibrating and videoed the propshaft rear half clicking and vibrating... So I'm fairly confident... :)

Good that yours is done and working now, this is the last mechanical thing I need to sort (for now)

[NUTTTR]

I received my new propshaft from Hardy Spicer on Friday and fitted it Friday night.

I had a bit of an exhaust leak anyway so I dropped the exhaust to check it out and get at the propshaft. My old prop shaft CB was toast but the other joints looked and felt fine. The Hardy Spicer doesn't come with the rear CV studs fitted, but they knock out and in the new CV easily enough. It was a lot easier than I expected with the hardest part was refitting the exhaust by myself just because it's pretty heavy.

The shudder when accelerating has gone as has the exhaust leak, so all is good. Well it was for about 2km then the brake pad warning came on, so pads are next.

My shaft arrived today and the CVs on this new one feel very "firm", my old ones were much "looser" feeling and definitely bind. These ones, while "firm" or "tight" are smooth.

Might try and put it in tonight! Gonna be an easy job second time round.

Will also check / feel diff (jack one wheel off ground and spin diff without tailshaft in).


[Edit:

And done. In and feels good! Took it on a 30min drive and definitely sorted now. We end up on the freeway quite a bit and that's where it's definitely obvious (and also taking off from lights, etc) and it seems smooth now.

The old CV's definitely bind, even after having them repacked.

I removed the rear heat shield only, left full exhaust in. The heat shield is very easy to manipulate and re-manipulate back into the right shape.

As this is my second time doing this it was done in about an hour, including checking the diff (spinning wheel in the air). I did it over the dip in the driveway/gutter with the car on full height and some stands underneath just in case... Plenty of room!]