130 Salisbury half shafts. Heavy duty or std?

[tangus89]

Hey All

My rear half shafts outer splines are quite worn on my 1998 130 and I'm looking at a replacement set.
Does anyone run Hi-Tuf axles? I'm struggling to justify $850 for them compared to $250 for a std set which have lasted 300k. Any major benefits?

I have increased to 33" tyres and will be upgrading the intercooler and upping the fuel etc so there will be more load on them. But for the price of the Hi-Tuf ones I can buy 3 sets of standard ones.
So if one set did break I'm still ahead money wise, just the hassle of retrieving bits of axle from the axle housing.

I need convincing either way.

[weeds]

I did the rears, not one bit of wear after 200k.....

I was confidant one would never break.......

If a standard one snaps half way across the Simpson it's a bit hard to order a new one. Although if you're not too far off track than remove and engage CDL until the replacement arrives.

Pros and cons for either.

[Blknight.aus]

dont forget that if the shaft has worn splines so does the flange.

Im always happy to reccomend stock sals axles with a maxi flange.

[Bearman]

I go the other way and use maxi or hi tough axles with standard flanges as the sacrificial bit.

[tangus89]

dont forget that if the shaft has worn splines so does the flange. Im always happy to reccomend stock sals axles with a maxi flange.

That's what I'm running. The maxi flanges are 30k old

[tangus89]

I go the other way and use maxi or hi tough axles with standard flanges as the sacrificial bit.
Yeah that isn't a bad idea, but would the standard flange spline/casting shear before something in the diff?

[Summiitt]

I've got Utes running full hi tuff axles and flanges, and standard axles with hi tuff flanges..both work well with no wear after 250+km. If you want to keep the costs down, I would go with standard axles/hi tuff flanges. I'll never put standard flanges on again, I use to carry one as a spare but after 5 years in the tool box, they are back in the shed just in case!

[tangus89]

I've got Utes running full hi tuff axles and flanges, and standard axles with hi tuff flanges..both work well with no wear after 250+km. If you want to keep the costs down, I would go with standard axles/hi tuff flanges. I'll never put standard flanges on again, I use to carry one as a spare but after 5 years in the tool box, they are back in the shed just in case!

Yeah thanks, with your experience and Dave saying the same I think I'll go the std axles and keep my maxidrive flanges.
However there was very little wear on the splines when I put the flanges on (30 k ago) Do the splines wear fast once they start?

[Blknight.aus]

I go the other way and use maxi or hi tough axles with standard flanges as the sacrificial bit.

Definately good to go with that logic, but I've always been worried about the stripping flange damaging the axle


Yeah that isn't a bad idea, but would the standard flange spline/casting shear before something in the diff?

yep. the flange is only just tougher than the cheese that they make the rover diff axles out of. If you had a well setup sals with high toughs it would be a case of the rubber or the flange ripping apart before anything else. With High toughs and maxi flanges if you managed to bust up something in a sals you'd deserve every syllable of mechanically unsympathetic expletive I threw in your general direction.

of course a tube failure or stub failure would be marginally forgivable.

[Bearman]

Yeah thanks, with your experience and Dave saying the same I think I'll go the std axles and keep my maxidrive flanges.
However there was very little wear on the splines when I put the flanges on (30 k ago) Do the splines wear fast once they start?

Flanges are much cheaper than axles - why would you go that way Tangus. Better to use a softer flange than the axle.

[weeds]

If still fit HTE axle and flanges than forget.......

[Bearman]

[QUOTE=Blknight.aus;2564875]Definately good to go with that logic, but I've always been worried about the stripping flange damaging the axle



]Initially I went maxi axles and flanges but had a failure in the axles stripping out in the flanges, so I then changed back to standard flanges and haven't had a problem since, maybe I just got faulty flanges!

[tangus89]

Flanges are much cheaper than axles - why would you go that way Tangus. Better to use a softer flange than the axle.


Yeah true, I do want a weak link that's easy to replace. however I could replace the axles 3 times before it would be beneficial going hi tuf cost wise, just have the pain of fishing out bits of axle.

If I had the cash to burn I would definitely be going down the HD axle route.
I'll have a think overnight.

[roverrescue]

The best thing about a factory flange is to:
Chuck it up
Dial it in
Boring bar the guts out of it
Do again
Throw under the back seat

Then when some rover scmuck blows a cee vee or a diff

With rattle gun
Yank out the offending tail shaft
Whip off the rear or front offending flanges
Install above modified spineless flanges and voila
Drive out in 2wd without friggen around

S

[steveG]

Unless you're running a locker in the sals the standard axles are strong enough IME so no point upgrading from that respect. If it were me I'd just do the standard axles, HD flanges (pick your flavor - hituff, terrafirma etc) and take the efgort to keep them lubricated.

I've twisted standard axles on the county with isuzu and locker though, so if you ARE running a locker go the better axles and flanges.

Steve

[weeds]

The best thing about a factory flange is to:
Chuck it up
Dial it in
Boring bar the guts out of it
Do again
Throw under the back seat

Then when some rover scmuck blows a cee vee or a diff

With rattle gun
Yank out the offending tail shaft
Whip off the rear or front offending flanges
Install above modified spineless flanges and voila
Drive out in 2wd without friggen around

S



I'm liking that......