View Full Version : POS TD5
bov17
1st August 2016, 07:35 PM
Hi Guys,
So.... the D2 is at it again.
Literally just replaced the gearbox, full service before fitting etc.
Hey presto, fuel pressure reg decided to leak... so, replaced that, then a fuel line cracked. replaced that, and hey it works again.
Drove to work, perfect! drove home, perfect! went to put it in reverse to come int he drive way... sweet f all!
put it back in drive, nothing. in any gear at all. Just from going from drive to reverse, its **** itself.
So I figured, ok, maybe the xyz that came on the replacement box is shagged... common problem... so I replaced it and wouldnt you know, not that.
it does not appear to be making any noises when changing gears in high and low same result.
really am at a loss to what the heck it could be. it was only just serviced so gearbox fluid had 9.5lt put in it (was completely dry except some in the torque converter) so fluid is still OK.
any suggestions would be awesome otherwise im going to burn it!
northiam
1st August 2016, 09:09 PM
Transfer box selector lever slipped into neutral?:o
bov17
1st August 2016, 09:16 PM
Transfer box selector lever slipped into neutral?:o
I wish. Checked that too :(
sierrafery
1st August 2016, 11:08 PM
If you get the gear selection indication on dash and no M+S warnings then IMO it's something mechanical, it can happen after few miles too not just instantly, here's from ashcfroft's site:
I have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why?
The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.
Milton477
1st August 2016, 11:57 PM
Broken Flex Plate?
geordiepride
2nd August 2016, 12:23 AM
here is something I learned only a few month ago the XYZ switch is just an inhibitor switch I tried this while I was doing some repairs
I had the XYZ switch removed from the transmission but I needed the car running due to work ..so I decided to temporarily plug in the XYZ switch not connected mechanically to the transmission... basically hanging in the breeze as long as the XYZ switch is set to P or N the engine will start
and I had full operation of all gears (kind of weird seeing P on the dash while doing 100KPH LOL
I did notice when selecting reverse into my garage I was rolling forward it slammed into reverse and jolted me back . sorry to ramble on but thought I would share this
your case it does sound mechanical I would recheck oil level if its good it could be possible the pick up pipe has dropped off
Pedro_The_Swift
2nd August 2016, 05:53 AM
The correct measurements are here,,
in our TGO Forum,,
read both posts ;)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/162286-joining-auto-torque-convertor-correctly.html
bov17
2nd August 2016, 07:15 AM
The correct measurements are here,,
in our TGO Forum,,
read both posts ;)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/162286-joining-auto-torque-convertor-correctly.html
Thanks for that - we did it ass about. We put the torque converter on first and then the gearbox, transfer and handbrake in stages.
looks like its going to be gearbox out again issue by the sounds of things regardless :(
Tins
2nd August 2016, 10:03 AM
Thanks for that - we did it ass about. We put the torque converter on first and then the gearbox, transfer and handbrake in stages.
looks like its going to be gearbox out again issue by the sounds of things regardless :(
It's an easy mistake to make if you don't know. While it's out, have a good hard look at the flex plate, as that can easily cause issues for you as well.
Roverlord off road spares
2nd August 2016, 03:59 PM
Thanks for that - we did it ass about. We put the torque converter on first and then the gearbox, transfer and handbrake in stages.
looks like its going to be gearbox out again issue by the sounds of things regardless :(
From what you have just said I appears the TC is not seated properly. Hopefully you haven't damaged the pump whilst you cranked the engine.
rob tilbury
2nd August 2016, 05:57 PM
I undone the small inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing stuck a bore scope up and thought Oh well .
Drop the transmission ,,,,
:censored:
DazzaTD5
3rd August 2016, 10:49 AM
I'm not having a go at anyone, I just find it very frustrating when I read things like the OP.
But ensuring torque converter is engaged correctly into the pump drive on an auto before installing it and confirming this with knowing the correct depth measurement really is mechanic 101 and is taught as an apprentice.
I'd also add that when ever mating an auto or manual box to the engine, dont use the old "put a bolt in a wind it up", mating the two together should always be done by hand and the end mating you should be able to hold together with your fingers, any tightness anywhere and something isnt right.
Living and learning is one thing and I do appreciate some owners like to do stuff themselves, but if you are unsure of a job or have never done it before, at the very least search the AULRO forum, it really is a wealth of information to point you in the right direction...
Regards
Daz
Tins
3rd August 2016, 06:17 PM
I'm not having a go at anyone, I just find it very frustrating when I read things like the OP.
But ensuring torque converter is engaged correctly into the pump drive on an auto before installing it and confirming this with knowing the correct depth measurement really is mechanic 101 and is taught as an apprentice.
I'd also add that when ever mating an auto or manual box to the engine,
don't use the old "put a bolt in a wind it up", mating the two together should always be done by hand
and the end mating you should be able to hold together with your fingers, any tightness anywhere and something isnt right.
Living and learning is one thing and I do appreciate some owners like to do stuff themselves, but if you are unsure of a job or have never done it before, at the very least search the AULRO forum, it really is a wealth of information to point you in the right direction...
Regards
Daz
When you're lying on your back, in a pool of mud, trying to get a box back in, when all you've had to align the clutch plate is you're eye and a torch, you have both feet up on the bellhousing and the extension housing in your sternum, because you aren't going home until the bl00dy car does, these words will come back to you....
Not arguing, Daz, good workshop practice is paramount, and autos are unforgiving; the front pump is fragile, and the flex plate, well...., it flexes. But, I once did a C10 in pretty much the exact circumstances I described, apart from the clutch alignment obviously.
I agree completely with your sentiment though. Use the forum for advice before you get into trouble, rather than after you already have. Every mech I ever worked with, or talked to said "better to do it once, properly, than have to do it again". One of the reasons I no longer do it; I wasn't good enough. But I always get home.
bov17
3rd August 2016, 08:30 PM
Whilst i appreciate coments regarding things people learn as an apprentice. This was actually fitted by two qualified mechanics.
The vehicle was driving. Perfectly i might add. It seems to be an electrical issue as once stopped put into reverse simply nothing happened after neutral. Now it does nothing.
The tc was fitted and measured first. Then thr box mated manually by hand (very difficultly i might add thry are heavy over head) and then bolted once home. Not bolted to pull it home.
sierrafery
3rd August 2016, 08:52 PM
very hard to believe that there can be an electrical issue as long as the LCD selection indicator works OK and no M + S warnings...did you actually undo that oil pipe as in aschroft's guide to see if it is good flow there?
DazzaTD5
4th August 2016, 10:07 AM
Whilst i appreciate coments regarding things people learn as an apprentice. This was actually fitted by two qualified mechanics.
The vehicle was driving. Perfectly i might add. It seems to be an electrical issue as once stopped put into reverse simply nothing happened after neutral. Now it does nothing.
The tc was fitted and measured first. Then thr box mated manually by hand (very difficultly i might add thry are heavy over head) and then bolted once home. Not bolted to pull it home.
See now after the fact, more details are given with regards to the install, every thing you have done was as per how it should be. This info was missing in the OP, and the original info was the OP had fitted the t/c to the engine first ***(removed comment with regards to picture of adapter plate crack).
***(removed comment with regards to picture of adapter plate crack). if there are no codes or m & s lights flashing, its unlikely to be a electrical fault.
Regards
Daz
CORRECTION: My apologies for leading down the wrong path, I saw the picture from rob tilbury and now see its not the OP, so the picture is not relevant to this issue.
DazzaTD5
4th August 2016, 10:27 AM
When you're lying on your back, in a pool of mud, trying to get a box back in, when all you've had to align the clutch plate is you're eye and a torch, you have both feet up on the bellhousing and the extension housing in your sternum, because you aren't going home until the bl00dy car does, these words will come back to you....
Not arguing, Daz.
I well know the feeling mate, been there a few times myself up north, exactly as you have described down to the both feet on the bellhousing... hilux clutches, Hino truck clutches, coaster bus clutches..... I do ponder back to them days are realise how tough I was or stupid/stubborn enough to keep going until it was done.
I appreciate you arent arguing with me, but there is no reason not too, nothing I do is rocket science....
Regards
Daz
rar110
4th August 2016, 11:01 AM
Is it the selector cable?
bov17
5th August 2016, 09:56 AM
See now after the fact, more details are given with regards to the install, every thing you have done was as per how it should be. This info was missing in the OP, and the original info was the OP had fitted the t/c to the engine first ***(removed comment with regards to picture of adapter plate crack).
***(removed comment with regards to picture of adapter plate crack). if there are no codes or m & s lights flashing, its unlikely to be a electrical fault.
Regards
Daz
CORRECTION: My apologies for leading down the wrong path, I saw the picture from rob tilbury and now see its not the OP, so the picture is not relevant to this issue.
no need to apologise I appreciate everyones feedback.
Have not been able to locate someone with the ability to read the codes as yet - does anyone happen to know someone I can compensate for their time to come have a scan and see if it comes up with something? I am located in Flaxton on the sunshine coast.
Cheers
87County
5th August 2016, 10:38 AM
If I was up there, not knowing anyone, I think I would be having a chat with MR Auto - HTH
rob tilbury
5th August 2016, 05:16 PM
Maybe this will help ?
ZF 4HP22 AUTOMATIC GEARBOX FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS | Paddock Land Rover (http://blog.paddockspares.com/zf-4hp22-automatic-gearbox-frequently-asked-questions/)
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