Too much of a coincidence? Or just bad luck? FUEL ISSUE??

[Pierre]

Mate's 2001 D2 td5 auto on the return trip from Melbourne via Karumba and the Qld coast over two months...

Drop into Wangaratta to visit relatives and decide to refuel on the way futher south this morning.

Get about 8km down the highway, on come the engine warning light and water in fuel warning light.

Engine stops. Refuses all attempts to start. RACV indie pronounces dead fuel pump! The refuel was definitely with V#$%^x dieso, so we don't think its a mixed fuel problem...

What do gurus use as their best fault finding list for this little problem?

Neatest correct answer gets a kiss!

Need to fix this smartly, because he's now got my car!!!

Cheers

Pete

[rangieman]

Not much as when they die they die;)
Some f/pumps can be coaxed back into life if you give the fuel tank a couple of welts .
Ignition on and belt the fuel tank from under neath and listen if it fire`s up ;)

[Ean Austral]

Turn the ignition on to where the dash lights up , with stereo off and door open or window down you should hear the pump humming.

I did hear of roadside assist guys banging the bottom centre of the tank with a rubber mallet and they have been known to fire up but they may be 1 in every thousand.

Cheers Ean

[sierrafery]

The non-start symptom corroborated with the MIL warning might be a crank sensor failure cos the MIL comes on only on crank or throttle pot signal failures... the water in fuel warning would come on if the pump fuse(F10) or the pump relay(R1) are gone as well.

[Disco Muppet]

Doesn't sound like a fuel issue, I agree with SF, check the crank angle sensor

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Pierre]

So, let's have a closer look. Battery flat. So jump start - after bleeding off any water from filter (seemed ok). Pump running with a little bit of a howl, then quietened down. Primed fuel system and it started immediately with a bit of a stutter. 10 secs and running smoothly. Three minutes and started to misfire, then stopped. Cranking - on came engine light - fails to start.

Change R1, check F10. Attempt restart. No go.

I'm with SF!!

Parts on the way and I'll keep you posted.

Thanks gurus.

Pete:)

[Pierre]

Well, it has been repaired successfully.

1. The crank angle sensor cover had disintegrated at the connection. Lucas supplies the better (more reliable) replacement. I recall Intermotor provided the CAS in the past, but was informed that failures with the brand had led suppliers to remove the Intermotor offering. Of course, the Lucas part was twice the cost of the Intermotor item, but still much less than genuine.

2. Repairs to the cabling had been made by a troll. It looked like the cabling had been trapped underneath a replaced fuel pressure regulator at some stage. The cable had been extended and joined, that was OK but one of the joints had not been made correctly.

About 20 minutes to remove and replace the CAS and 3 hours to trace, discover and reinstate the poorly executed stuff up. Vehicle has been like this since before 2010 when he bought the vehicle. Since then it has lapped Oz twice.

It is certainly a showstopper. Lesson learned - when you change the FPR, make sure that all the nearby cabling is well clear of the mating surfaces!!!!
And when servicing, check the position and condition of the sensor cabling.

SF wins.

Cheers and thanks

Pete:)