View Full Version : 2014+ Facelift Xenon headlights/grill enroute
Lukeis
5th August 2016, 09:10 AM
Hi Guys
I have found/purchased the 2014+ headlights to fit to my 2011 D4 - they are xenon while I currently have halogen so I'm going to need this switched via the CCF
Does anyone know who/where and how much that will cost in Sydney?
I know I can wire the DRL's to work and there is a small chance they may work out of the box, but is there anything which needs to be activated via the CCF?
thanks, Luke
ps - on a side note, this means I will have a 2011 Black grill and headlights up for sale soon for those in need or with D3's looking for a refresh.
guthrie
5th August 2016, 12:58 PM
Have a read through https://web.archive.org/web/20150506004525/http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic107688.html
Out of interest where did you get the new lights?
LRD414
5th August 2016, 01:25 PM
I know I can wire the DRL's to work and there is a small chance they may work out of the box, but is there anything which needs to be activated via the CCF
Yep CCF changes required .... some details here (as well as the linked Disco3 thread):
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/235042-d4-swapping-standard-lights-signature-lights-4.html
Cheers,
Scott
Lukeis
5th August 2016, 02:57 PM
I've done this type of facelift before with my old Freelander 2 so feeling confident but there are two parts which I'm yet to work out for myself.
1) Where to get the CCF changed (noting I may need it changed back and forth a couple of times while I work on point 2
2) How to make them Dim on indication/headlights come on. (The FL2 signature lights weren't as bright and didn't need to be dimmed).
Reading up on point 2 now (disco3.co.uk)
Got the lights and grill from UK eBay Guthrie.
guthrie
9th August 2016, 09:44 AM
Luke are you getting a new bumper... or just a new grill to make these fit?
sheerluck
9th August 2016, 10:23 AM
There is a small gap (about 15mm) under the headlamps if you use 2013> lights with a pre-2013 bumper. From what I've seen on Disco3, folks tend to live with it.
Lukeis
9th August 2016, 04:46 PM
Hey Guthrie
I plan on seeing how it is first, I'm a bit fussy about the cosmetic side of things so unless it's very minimal I'll be sourcing a new bumper.
Biggest concern at first will be getting the lights to operate properly then worry about the rest.
Item is still stuck in the uk, sender left the customs slip off which is slowing things down.
Tapinder
10th August 2016, 10:40 AM
Hi Luke
I recently bought a 2013 D4 (pre-facelift) & I'll be following this thread very closely. I want to swap the headlights with facelift ones with DRLs.
By the way I'm in Central Coast area & would appreciate if you can share contacts of people who can help with this mod after you have completed.
Thanks,
Tapi
Lukeis
10th August 2016, 10:49 AM
Absolutely. I'll keep you posted
Lukeis
15th August 2016, 06:16 PM
quick update:
the lights arrived today, with absolutely no modifications the following:
1) Signature strip works on side light setting, main beam and auto. turns off with all lights off.
2) Indicators work perfectly
3) as expected - head lights (xenon) come on then turn off - need CCF altered from halogen to xenon.
Guthrie - the gap between the lights and bumper is actually very minimal, you literally have to look for it so I can't see myself changing the bumper as no-one will notice.
I will post before and after pics once it's done, just need to find a shop to do it for me first..
LRD414
15th August 2016, 06:35 PM
I will post before and after pics once it's done, just need to find a shop to do it for me first..
Luke, have you considered buying an iiD or Nanocom tool and diy ccf changes.
Seems like you're pretty handy with this stuff and the tool is very useful for troubleshooting faults and reading live values (temp etc).
You'll pay a bit to get someone to look at CCF changes anyway, so put this towards a tool (~$700)
Cheers,
Scott
PS .... the first of my xenons has arrived too, one still coming.
Lukeis
15th August 2016, 07:30 PM
Hey Scott
Yeah, I have thought about it but I'm far from being a mechanic so reading faults wouldn't help me and I'm really not convinced there is anything else you can alter which would be beneficial, happy to be corrected?
A shop surely won't charge much, i hope..
Good to hear yours is underway too.. where did you get them from? good price?
letherm
15th August 2016, 07:59 PM
Hey Scott
Yeah, I have thought about it but I'm far from being a mechanic so reading faults wouldn't help me and I'm really not convinced there is anything else you can alter which would be beneficial, happy to be corrected?
Handy to clear faults if nothing else as some are as as result of a simple glitch but can stop you. If you clear a fault it can get you going again. Obviously if it's major it'll pop straight back again but at least you've got a chance of getting going again. I am not a mechanic either but bought a Nanocom as a precaution. Colin, who is the vendor is a member and has group buys occasionally which make it cheaper.
A shop surely won't charge much, i hope..
Actually it can be expensive sometimes, depends on the person you're dealing with
Martin
Tombie
15th August 2016, 08:00 PM
You can always pay an IID owner the $120
To add your VIN..
Complete your changes and good to go..
LRD414
16th August 2016, 07:07 AM
You can always pay an IID owner the $120
To add your VIN..
Complete your changes and good to go..
Yep that would be the cheapest way and would allow for a couple of attempts if you don't get the ccf setting just right the 1st go.
But as Martin says fault clearing alone is worth the unit cost.
Plus knowing more about faults that return/persist can reduce the cost of fault-finding compared to paying someone to start chasing issues without any info.
Having the ability to put the vehicle in TTM for wheel alignment yourself is also a huge benefit. No need to go through a dealer for a simple wheel alignment.
Food for thought .....
Cheers,
Scott
Lukeis
16th August 2016, 08:43 AM
Update: $70 at the mechanics and all updated, lights operating perfectly. DRL brightness dips when the main beam comes on.
Had to enable xenon and option 1 DRL.
Very quick to do.
Out of curiosity, what's the difference between Canadian, Scandinavian etc DRL?
LRD414
16th August 2016, 09:05 PM
Just beat me to it Luke .... 2nd one turned up today so fitted & activated tonight.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/489.jpg
Xenon Goodness
Very happy with the result because this was the only specification item I have regretted from the original purchase.
Even just on the driveway you can see what a massive difference there is between halogen and xenon.
And of course the LED DRLs look great.
Not exactly cheap, $2000 landed for the pair incl duty etc. Purchased on eBay:
NEW Pair of Genuine Discovery 4 HID Xenon LED headlights UK Spec Headlight (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252235977665?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
I'd love to know what this option costs when choosen during an original purchase.
Enabling the CCF settings was straightforward as Luke stated, with DRL already being active on mine so only one setting to change.
Cheers,
Scott
And just for reference, this old thread explain differences between the Canadian and Scandinavian DRL settings:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/140288-lights-always-auto-off-option.html
I have neither of these enabled, just the standard DRL setting.
sheerluck
16th August 2016, 09:11 PM
I'd love to know what this option costs when choosen during an original purchase.....
$1130
LRD414
27th August 2016, 12:48 PM
Is there any adjustment/alignment check that I should look at for the new headlights?
There is nothing mentioned in the Owner Manual and haven't found anything in the WSM but my pdf is difficult to search.
They seem to be ok to me but have only been in the city so far and I have read somewhere about checking headlights up against a wall.
But then I wouldn't know what the correct height would be anyway.
Cheers,
Scott
Grentarc
27th August 2016, 01:56 PM
There is nothing mentioned in the Owner Manual and haven't found anything in the WSM but my pdf is difficult to search.
From the WSM -
Exterior Lighting - Headlamp Adjustment
General Procedures
- NOTE: With self leveling suspension, make sure the vehicle is at the standard ride height.
- NOTE: The headlamp setting is 1.2 % below horizontal and parallel.
- NOTE: NAS vehicles have vertical adjustment only.
1. Align the headlamp beam setting equipment to one headlamp.
2. Switch the headlamps on and to dipped beam.
3. NOTE: NAS vehicles have vertical adjustment only.
Adjust the headlamps with a Philips screwdriver.
Rotate the adjusters A and B by an equal amount for
vertical alignment.
Rotate the adjusters A or B for horizontal alignment.
4. To adjust the second headlamp, repeat the above procedure.
The bit to take note of is the 1.2% below horizontal
LRD414
13th September 2016, 08:13 PM
I have noticed when first turning on the xenon headlights that they shine brighter for a few milliseconds and then settle to a steady output.
The output is way better than the old halogens but that brief flash is even more light.
Is this normal behaviour for xenon lights?
If so, why does it do that?
Cheers,
Scott
LandyAndy
13th September 2016, 08:21 PM
Do they always start on hi-beam and immediately go to low beam???,mine go bright then settle.
Andrew
Grentarc
14th September 2016, 05:16 AM
I have noticed when first turning on the xenon headlights that they shine brighter for a few milliseconds and then settle to a steady output.
The output is way better than the old halogens but that brief flash is even more light.
Is this normal behaviour for xenon lights?
If so, why does it do that?
Cheers,
Scott
Yes, that flaring is normal with xenon lights as they require a very high starting voltage to establish the arc, then the voltage reduces to a level that maintains the arc.
guthrie
9th December 2016, 11:14 AM
From the WSM -
Exterior Lighting - Headlamp Adjustment
General Procedures
- NOTE: With self leveling suspension, make sure the vehicle is at the standard ride height.
- NOTE: The headlamp setting is 1.2 % below horizontal and parallel.
- NOTE: NAS vehicles have vertical adjustment only.
1. Align the headlamp beam setting equipment to one headlamp.
2. Switch the headlamps on and to dipped beam.
3. NOTE: NAS vehicles have vertical adjustment only.
Adjust the headlamps with a Philips screwdriver.
Rotate the adjusters A and B by an equal amount for
vertical alignment.
Rotate the adjusters A or B for horizontal alignment.
4. To adjust the second headlamp, repeat the above procedure.
The bit to take note of is the 1.2% below horizontal
I have just done the swap to 2014 lights and need to make the adjustments suggested above.
Is this as easy as shining your lights onto a wall and marking the horizontal and adjusting from there?
Grentarc
9th December 2016, 11:17 AM
I have just done the swap to 2014 lights and need to make the adjustments suggested above.
Is this as easy as shining your lights onto a wall and marking the horizontal and adjusting from there?
Yes, on a flat surface.
You need to mark horizontal, and easiest way is to be exactly 10m away from the wall, so your lights should be adjusted down so they are 120mm below horizontal
guthrie
13th December 2016, 10:23 AM
Had to enable xenon and option 1 DRL.
In case anyone else is struggling with the CCF changes... using a Nanocom, I had to enable these options. These settings are for a 2010 Xenon to 2014 Xenon change.
Disco_Moe
28th January 2017, 08:37 AM
Update: $70 at the mechanics and all updated, lights operating perfectly. DRL brightness dips when the main beam comes on.
Had to enable xenon and option 1 DRL.
Very quick to do.
Out of curiosity, what's the difference between Canadian, Scandinavian etc DRL?
Hi guys,
I just updated from xenon prefacelift to xenon postfacelift on my disco. I am in Sydney and I have a few questions-
Luke where Did you go in Sydney to activate the DRL's? I use roving mechanical and last time I asked glen I think it was, he said he couldn't do it.
The drivers side high beam isn't working, I know it is part of the xenon but is there a way of fixing it? I purchased the lights new from the U.K. And the seller isn't replying back to my emails!
I am not too not concerned with the dimming of DRLs when the blinker is on but now when I turn them on they don't seem as bright as other cars I have seen. Will the DRL activation sort this out.
Thanks all 😊
Disco_Moe
28th January 2017, 08:39 AM
Almost forgot the obligatory picture! What a difference!
LRD414
28th January 2017, 10:46 AM
The high beam issue will be the shutter. There's only one bulb and a shutter is down when lights are dipped. So if dipped works but stays dipped in high it will be the shutter especially if the other one is ok.
LRD414
28th January 2017, 10:48 AM
When you say "seems not as bright" do you mean the LEDs or the headlight bulb? The LEDs are dimmer when the headlight is on and bright when on by themselves. But without DRL active I suspect the LEDs will only be dim and not on by themselves.
Scott
Lukeis
28th January 2017, 01:54 PM
correct, the DRL brightness worked itself out when the CCF changes were made to include xenon (for non xenon models) and DRL.
from memory I first chose the wrong DRL option (there are 4 or so to choose from) so the DRL light was dim but when I got the correct one it all worked ok!
I used British and Swedish motors at warriewood, we guessed our way until we found the correct setting as this was the first time for them too. I'm sure there are plenty of other places which can do this but not many are sure how.
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