Wiring for Anderson Plug for Camper

[D4206]

Hi, I've been reading numerous threads here about auxiliary batteries and wiring for charging batteries in camper trailers and need some advice.

In my previous 80 series land cruiser the aux battery was under the bonnet and simply connected via a solenoid. This ran a fridge in the back of the car. The camper was connected via an Anderson plug which had a seperate single thick wire to the positive battery terminal in the chassis rail and negative grounded to the towbar at rear of the vehicle. The camper has a DC/DC charger(with solar input) feeding 2x75ah Optima batteries. This has all worked well for our use.

In the new D4 I will be fitting a second battery in the back of the vehicle to run the car fridge, and an Anderson plug at the towbar to connect to the camper.

My questions are these:

1. Is it ok to run a single 6 B&S cable to the rear Anderson plug and connect an earth at the back of the vehicle...if so is there a preferred earthing location near the towbar area? Or is it best to run twin core directly from the pos and neg battery terminals to the Anderson plug.

2. Given the DC/DC charger in the camper acts as an isolator I assume that I will only need circuit breakers in the pos lines at each battery? (I understand that the Anderson plug will always be live in this scenario)

3. For the car aux battery running the car fridge I'm still undecided on the need for a second DC/DC charger. My concern is that the D4 has one of these smart alternators that reduce the voltage and hence my aux battery may not get charged fully. Be interested in others experience and thoughts.

Cheers,
Bill

[drivesafe]

Hi Bill, your Toyota probably had a low voltage operation and while there are better solutions to remedy that, a DC/DC device would fix the low voltage.

D4s have a totally different type of alternator operation, and there is absolutely no need for a DC/DC device in either your D4 or your camper trailer.

I have over 4,000 D3s and D4s equipped with my gear and they do not have any problems charging banks of batteries in caravans and camper trailers.

For example, there are now quite a few D4 owners with an Optima under the bonnet and three house batteries in their caravan and many of them do a lot of free camping and then require their D4 to charge their house batteries as they move to the next camp site and they have no problems do just that.

Whereas, with your D4's charging capabilities, if your two optima are in a low state, your DC/DC device in your camper trailer will actually take much longer to charge those two Optimas, than what your D4's alternator can do by itself.

Furthermore, if you fit one of my D4 dual battery kits, your auxiliary battery will be mounted in a battery tray under the bonnet, freeing up cargo area space.

[LRD414]

Bill, I'm one of many that have a Traxide dual battery kit as described by Tim (drivesafe) above.

I reckon the D4-5S kit will pretty closely replicate your 80 series setup, including locating the aux battery under the bonnet rather than wasting space in the rear.

The kit includes the isolator, low voltage cut-out switch, large capacity cable with Anderson Plug to run from aux to rear (for camper connection), battery tray and detailed DIY instructions.
So you really only need to buy the aux battery (kit is based on the Optima yellow top).

My use is almost exactly as Tim describes, except I have only 2 x 110ah aux batteries in the camper plus the aux under the bonnet.

Some other experiences in these threads:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/180987-traxide-d4-dual-battery-kit.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/206464-d4-2nd-battery-charging.html

Cheers,
Scott

[Meken]

I'm another that can recommend Tim's kit. Excellent gear and even more excellent help from Tim

[LandyAndy]

Another happy customer.Have used Tims gear in 4 vehicles.
As for fitting in the D4,his diy kit is brilliant and all setup to suit the future body off servicing.
The instructions are easy to follow with pics.
Easy Peasy.
ENJOY
Andrew

[D4206]

Bill, I'm one of many that have a Traxide dual battery kit as described by Tim (drivesafe) above.

I reckon the D4-5S kit will pretty closely replicate your 80 series setup, including locating the aux battery under the bonnet rather than wasting space in the rear.

The kit includes the isolator, low voltage cut-out switch, large capacity cable with Anderson Plug to run from aux to rear (for camper connection), battery tray and detailed DIY instructions.
So you really only need to buy the aux battery (kit is based on the Optima yellow top).

My use is almost exactly as Tim describes, except I have only 2 x 110ah aux batteries in the camper plus the aux under the bonnet.

Some other experiences in these threads:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/180987-traxide-d4-dual-battery-kit.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/206464-d4-2nd-battery-charging.html

Cheers,
Scott


Scott, I've just read your build thread....excellent write up of all that you've done to you D4....on the dual battery issue, can I ask if you do long term camping and have solar input with your setup? I've read about the Traxide kits and note that people have differing opinions....my concern is having a small 55ah auxiliary battery and having both batteries connected down to 12v?....I'm certainly a novice in this area, but don't want to be stranded outback with a flat starter battery. That's why I was thinking of a larger..at least 120ah aux in the D4. The compressor was going to go into the aux battery spot under the bonnet. I thought that the smart alternators in the D4 "throttled down" at times and that this would prevent proper battery charging? If your system is working then I assume that this in not the case?

Cheers,
Bill

[LRD414]

Bill, a few comments below ....

....on the dual battery issue, can I ask if you do long term camping and have solar input with your setup?
Not a lot of long-term camping with just the D4 in a single location without driving.
Most of our trips involve regular driving, whether travelling daily or site-seeing from a base camp.

Yes I do have solar: a 150W free-standing panel, a 120W foldable panel and a 15A MPPT regulator.
I find the 150W alone is sufficient for most situations but carry both panels when travelling with the camper trailer or if just going to the beach with the D4.

Long-term camping in one place with the camper is straightforward.
The 2 panels with 2 x 110ah batteries works well in most situations for a few days and if there's even just semi-regular sun it's basically self-sufficient.

For short trips with just the D4, the 120W panel is ok but find I need to use the car every second day if it's cloudy or the camp site is shady.
This is fine for us as we tend to drive regularly anyway.


....my concern is having a small 55ah auxiliary battery and having both batteries connected down to 12v?....I'm certainly a novice in this area, but don't want to be stranded outback with a flat starter battery. That's why I was thinking of a larger..at least 120ah aux in the D4.
The cranking battery easily starts the D4 even when at 12.0V, although I wouldn't do this regularly.
It's happened a couple of times when using the fridge on -4 and running LED lights but not getting a lot of solar input.
A larger aux battery would have delayed that but eventually it catches up with you anyway.
If we're staying put in one place with minimal driving, I would be taking both solar panels and am also considering getting a second foldable panel (easier to pack).

However, if multiple days without driving was a regular situation, then I would perhaps consider adding a 2nd battery to the rear in addition to the 55ah under the bonnet.
Perhaps one of those portable units, which allows flexibility to carry it only for trips where it was really needed.
Would be easy to provide a connection point into the Traxide arrangement in the rear somewhere.


The compressor was going to go into the aux battery spot under the bonnet.
Some people fit an air compressor into the covered factory aux tray on the driver's side and the aux battery in front of the main battery (passenger side) where the fuel burning heater is located in Europe.
This is where the D4 Traxide kit's battery tray is designed for.
Other people have done the reverse of this (compressor in front of cranking battery)
Both arrangements work but in my opinion it is neater to locate the aux battery adjacent to the cranking battery.


I thought that the smart alternators in the D4 "throttled down" at times and that this would prevent proper battery charging? If your system is working then I assume that this in not the case?
There was a situation where the battery management software was doing as you describe but this was fixed by a software update.
Mine has never suffered that problem as it was outside the affected VIN range. It is up above 14V nearly all the time (portable cig socket voltmeter readings).
However, it is true that you won't get the battery up to absolute 100% charge without many hours driving (obviously depending on how low it goes and how much solar "top-up" it gets).

Hope all that helps.

Cheers,
Scott

Here's a thread on compressor locations for reference:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup.html

Compressor in driver's side aux tray:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Aux battery in space on passenger side c/w Traxide SC80 isolator mounted to side of battery tray:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/812.jpg

[drivesafe]

Thanks Scott and an excellant post.


It is up above 14V nearly all the time (portable cig socket voltmeter readings).
However, it is true that you won't get the battery up to absolute 100% charge without many hours driving (obviously depending on how low it goes and how much solar "top-up" it gets).
As Scott posted, this is true where batteries have been discharged a few bit and then need to be recharged while driving.

BUT!!!

This is where the reality stops and fiction gets in the way of the advertising used to sell DC/DC devices.

If you have used a fair bit of your battery capacity while camping and then need to recharge the batteries with a DC/DC device, you will need to drive for a much longer time to replace the same amount of used capacity that your D4's alternator can do by itself.

When using my isolators, there are a number of reasons for this and the first is that unlike any other dual battery setup, because the used capacity is spread over an additional battery, the cranking battery, none of the batteries are as low as they would be with any other dual battery setup, including DC/DC setups.

So at the start of your drive, all your batteries are already in a higher state of charge.

Then, because the D4 alternator is so large, it will easily charge all the batteries at at the same time and at a much higher charge current.

This ultimately means that while it is unlikely that you will fully charge low batteries in a given drive time, but all the batteries will be in a much, MUCH higher state of charge at the end of the drive than if you used one or even two DC/DC devices.

And all these advantages are gained for a much lower setup cost.

[D4206]

Thanks for the detailed response Scott....much appreciated. I will check out the alternative compressor location on the drivers side.

Tim, how would your control unit work with a third battery (only used on extended free camping trips- in conjunction with solar panels) in the back of the car? Would it be just a matter of providing another Anderson plug in the cargo area (to charge the third battery whilst driving) as a branch from the cabling going to the rear Anderson plug?

Can you also clarify the advantages of the USI 160 over the SCI80 LR. For me it seems as though the ign mode of the former might be an advantage in that I can choose to seperate the batteries at a higher voltage. Is this correct?

Cheers,
Bill

[l00kin4]

Bill, Tim and Scott have covered it all well.
One other little bit of info - some people prefer to use the location in front of the cranking battery for a larger compressor (like the ARB twin CKMTA12) because it does offer a larger space than the driver's side battery box and then locate the aux battery in the driver's side battery box.
On some later models (certainly in my MY14) though, one of the nutserts for the battery tiedown in the driver's side battery box is obstructed by the ABS pump. Only a consideration if you are considering a larger compressor...
David

[BMKal]

Another happy Traxide customer here. :D

Tim and Scott have answered it all, but one additional point ............

In your original post, you asked "Is it ok to run a single 6 B&S cable to the rear Anderson plug and connect an earth at the back of the vehicle...if so is there a preferred earthing location near the towbar area? Or is it best to run twin core directly from the pos and neg battery terminals to the Anderson plug."

NEVER, EVER connect ANYTHING (especially jumper leads) directly to the negative post of the original (cranking) battery in your D4. This is a sure fire way to cause some potentially serious problems. Always use a body mounted earthing point (there are two on the side of the engine bay just in front of the battery / fuse box, and if you need a larger one, Tim can sell you a stainless steel adaptor with a large earth post which bolts directly to these two original posts).

As far as running a third battery in the back goes, I also run an ENGEL portable battery pack in the rear of mine as suggested in Scott's post. I simply plug it in to one of the two permanently powered 12V sockets that I installed as part of the Traxide kit installation, and this has always kept the third battery charged without problems. I run an ENGEL 40 litre fridge permanently in the back of the vehicle, connected directly to this third battery. When I plug in my CTek battery charger to the Anderson plug at the rear of the vehicle to top everything up once a month or so as recommended, this charges all three batteries. Similarly when camping, I plug an 80W solar panel into the Anderson plug and it charges all three batteries as required.

[D4206]

Another happy Traxide customer here. :D



As far as running a third battery in the back goes, I also run an ENGEL portable battery pack in the rear of mine as suggested in Scott's post. I simply plug it in to one of the two permanently powered 12V sockets that I installed as part of the Traxide kit installation, and this has always kept the third battery charged without problems. I run an ENGEL 40 litre fridge permanently in the back of the vehicle, connected directly to this third battery. When I plug in my CTek battery charger to the Anderson plug at the rear of the vehicle to top everything up once a month or so as recommended, this charges all three batteries. Similarly when camping, I plug an 80W solar panel into the Anderson plug and it charges all three batteries as required.


BMKal, thanks for that information.. Am I correct in assuming that when you plug your third battery into the system, that in effect the fridge uses all three batteries equally, so in effect your spreading the load across the 2 aux and starting battery? Sounds like a good solution to me as I also have a portable 80hr Thumper battery that I could plug into the cargo area.

Cheers,
Bill

[scarry]

Similar issue for me,and another question.

I have 8b&s going to rear,as supplied in standard traxide SC80, D4 kit,to a couple of merit plugs in the rear compartment of the vehicle.

If i now want to fit an anderson plug to charge two batteries in a camper,do i need to replace the cable with 6B&S?

If so will 6B&S go through the firewall where the 8 goes through?

And also,as per the OP post,can just a single 6B&S be run to the rear,and a negative post at the rear of the vehicle be used,instead of running two cables from the front of the vehicle?

[drivesafe]

Tim, how would your control unit work with a third battery (only used on extended free camping trips- in conjunction with solar panels) in the back of the car? Would it be just a matter of providing another Anderson plug in the cargo area (to charge the third battery whilst driving) as a branch from the cabling going to the rear Anderson plug?

Can you also clarify the advantages of the USI 160 over the SCI80 LR. For me it seems as though the ign mode of the former might be an advantage in that I can choose to seperate the batteries at a higher voltage. Is this correct?

Hi Bill, since the 1st of April this year, all SC80 and SC80-LR isolators and kit with these isolator, have been supplied with the new SC80 MKII.

While the new standard SC80 operates in similar manner to the original SC80-CB, the new SC80 has REVERSE CHARGING and TIME-OUT features added to it.

The REVERSE CHARGING allows for solar panels ( with a regulator ) or a battery charger to be used via the Anderson plug at the rear, to charge and maintain both batteries, even while the vehicle is locked up.

There is also a new SC80-M isolator ( the M stands for In-Cab Module )

Over the last few years I have had many requests to add a means of turning off an SC80 when a vehicle was not going to be used for some time.

The new SC80-M isolator can be used in the same way as the USI-160.

But the In-Cab Module with the SC80-M has additional features.

You can set different TIME-OUT periods from 72 hour ( normal setting ), 24 or 6 hours.

There is a small toggle switch on the In-Cab Module, similar to the USI-160.

When set away from the LED the SC80 runs the TIME-OUT settings you have selected.

When the switch is set towards the LED, the SC80 now operates in STORAGE Mode ( similar to the USI-160 IGNITION mode ).

Unlike the USI-160, the new SC80 isolators come with a Bicolour LED and the LED not only shows what mode the isolator is in, but it also displays a very basic battery capacity indicator when the motor is off.

From the beginning of this week we started supplying all D3-BS, D3-DS, D4-2S and D4-5S with the new SC80-M isolator.

These new isolators are being supplied at the existing kit price but this is for a very limited time. I have not increased my kit prices for quite a few years but I will be doing so in the very near future.

One more bit of info. I have been asked on a number of occasions to set up one of my kits to allow for an additional REMOVABLE battery, usually one of the portable battery packs, to be recharged while driving.

I now offer an upgrade where there is "T" junction for the standard 6mm AUTO twin, for connecting to the ABG-25 Low voltage Cut-Out and a second 8B&S twin with a 50 amp Anderson plug fitted, to allow connecting to the portable battery pack.

[drivesafe]

Similar issue for me,and another question.

I have 8b&s going to rear,as supplied in standard traxide SC80, D4 kit,to a couple of merit plugs in the rear compartment of the vehicle.

If i now want to fit an anderson plug to charge two batteries in a camper,do i need to replace the cable with 6B&S?

If so will 6B&S go through the firewall where the 8 goes through?

And also,as per the OP post,can just a single 6B&S be run to the rear,and a negative post at the rear of the vehicle be used,instead of running two cables from the front of the vehicle?

Hi Paul, while 8B&S is fine for short cable runs, over the length of a vehicle there is just to much voltage drop if the caravan/camper trailer batteries are low, so they will never fully charge unless you drive for many, MANY hours.

As for running a single POSITIVE cable to the rear and using the BODY as the earth return, you can only try. I have never done it so I can't give you advice one way or the other.

Just note, you must earth to the body and not the chassis as the body is lifted off the chassis if work needs to be done on the motor.

If you want to run a new 6B&S cable through your disco, send me an E-mail and I will send you a PDF with the full installation instructions to make it easier for you.

[D4206]

Hi Tim, thanks for the response.

Could you provide further clarification/ definition of some of your terminology.

"turning off" the SC80..does this mean the aux batteries are all isolated from the start battery?

Does "storage mode" mean all batteries are connected?

What do the "time out" settings actually do?

I'm assuming that the USI-160 is made for people who want to be able to connect their batteries for winching purposes, and that if I don't need that function the new SC80 is more suitable?

Cheers,
Bill

[drivesafe]

"turning off" the SC80..does this mean the aux batteries are all isolated from the start battery? YES

Does "storage mode" mean all batteries are connected? No. This DISCONNECTS the batteries while they are fully charged and is used when the vehicle is not going to be used for long periods.

What do the "time out" settings actually do? The TIME-OUT feature is used to turn the isolator off after a given number of hours after the motor was last on. This removes the wasted power when the vehicle is not in use for some time

I'm assuming that the USI-160 is made for people who want to be able to connect their batteries for winching purposes, and that if I don't need that function the new SC80 is more suitable?, Correct, if you do not have a winch then there is no need for the higher current capability of the USI-160.


You can find more info about the TIME-OUT feature on my website.

[BMKal]

BMKal, thanks for that information.. Am I correct in assuming that when you plug your third battery into the system, that in effect the fridge uses all three batteries equally, so in effect your spreading the load across the 2 aux and starting battery? Sounds like a good solution to me as I also have a portable 80hr Thumper battery that I could plug into the cargo area.

Cheers,
Bill

Yes, fridge would draw on all three batteries, except for when cranking battery is isolated from the Traxide system.

I also have a "Thumper" battery out in the shed and have used that in the same application in the past. I mainly use the ENGEL battery pack now because it is a better "fit" where I have placed it between the rear seat backrest and the drawer system in the back. The ENGEL unit also has more power outlets than the Thumper with all outlets individually switched and LED illuminated, and has an in-built voltage meter.

[D4206]

You can find more info about the TIME-OUT feature on my website.



Hi Tim, I do have a winch being installed in a few weeks time. Should I get the UCI-160, or would the latest SC80 be ok if I isolated the 2 aux batteries when I need to use the winch... Which would be infrequent.

I don't really understand the benefits of having the aux batteries connected when winching, given the motor would be running...(although I do understand that if connected the cabling needs to be thicker)
cheers,
Bill

[drivesafe]

Hi Bill, if you are fitting an electric winch then I recommend you fit a USI-160.

Even if you are only planning to use the winch infrequently, there are advantages to both having two batteries supplying the winch while it is in use and to using the USI-160.

Best practice winching is to have your motor on high idle and winch for 60 seconds, then rest for 90 seconds and then repeat for as long as you need.

The short winch period means the winch shouldn't get too hot while in use and the rest period both allows the winch to cool a bit between uses and to allow the battery, or batteries, to recharge.

By allowing the battery time to recharge, between uses, the voltage going to the winch, while in use, will be higher. Higher voltage at the winch means the winch will not have to be used as hard to achieve the same amount of work.

This reduces the heating of the winch and ware on the winch.

By adding a second battery to a winch setup, firstly the voltage at the winch is going to be even higher. The load the winch is pulling is going to be spread over two batteries, so less stress on the cranking battery.

While in the rest cycle, you will replace more of the used battery capacity and again, this means higher voltages at the winch while it's in use.

Instead of fitting a USI-160 isolator, you could link the batteries either with a marine battery switch or a heavy duty solenoid, controlled by a switch in the cab.

The problem with using either a marine battery switch or a heavy duty solenoid is that if when you have finished winching, if you forget to turn the marine battery switch or a heavy duty solenoid off, and you go off camping, you could end up with two flat batteries.

The USI stands for Ultra Smart Isolator and here are a few reasons why.

Under normal operation, the USI-160 would be in the recommended SHARED Mode, and this has a minimum pre-set Cut-Out ( turn off ) voltage of 12.0v but when you select WINCH Mode, the USI-160 automatically resets the Cut-Out voltage down to 10.0V.

The 10.0v voltage allows for both batteries to be used while winching, but if you are not taking care while winching and you operate your winch down to a stall situation and don't stop winching, the USI-160 will disconnect the auxiliary battery so that if you damage the cranking battery, you still have the auxiliary battery as an emergency backup.

Next, if once you have finished your winch operations but forget to switch the USI-160 back to normal operations, if you turn your motor off, 5 minutes after your motor is turned off, the USI-160 automatically resets the Cut-Out voltage back up to 12.0v, removing any risk of you flattening both batteries while camping.

Hope this answers your questions.

[ytt105]

Drivesafe

While we're talking winching.

I've got a SC80 linking my two batteries, and I use a winch to pull my caravan into place.
Never been stuck enough to need it for the Disco, but I do travel with people with lesser machines.;)

What are the issues I have when winching with my setup?

[D4206]

Hi Bill, if you are fitting an electric winch then I recommend you fit a USI-160.

Even if you are only planning to use the winch infrequently, there are advantages to both having two batteries supplying the winch while it is in use and to using the USI-160.

Best practice winching is to have your motor on high idle and winch for 60 seconds, then rest for 90 seconds and then repeat for as long as you need.

The short winch period means the winch shouldn't get too hot while in use and the rest period both allows the winch to cool a bit between uses and to allow the battery, or batteries, to recharge.

By allowing the battery time to recharge, between uses, the voltage going to the winch, while in use, will be higher. Higher voltage at the winch means the winch will not have to be used as hard to achieve the same amount of work.

This reduces the heating of the winch and ware on the winch.

By adding a second battery to a winch setup, firstly the voltage at the winch is going to be even higher. The load the winch is pulling is going to be spread over two batteries, so less stress on the cranking battery.

While in the rest cycle, you will replace more of the used battery capacity and again, this means higher voltages at the winch while it's in use.

Instead of fitting a USI-160 isolator, you could link the batteries either with a marine battery switch or a heavy duty solenoid, controlled by a switch in the cab.

The problem with using either a marine battery switch or a heavy duty solenoid is that if when you have finished winching, if you forget to turn the marine battery switch or a heavy duty solenoid off, and you go off camping, you could end up with two flat batteries.

The USI stands for Ultra Smart Isolator and here are a few reasons why.

Under normal operation, the USI-160 would be in the recommended SHARED Mode, and this has a minimum pre-set Cut-Out ( turn off ) voltage of 12.0v but when you select WINCH Mode, the USI-160 automatically resets the Cut-Out voltage down to 10.0V.

The 10.0v voltage allows for both batteries to be used while winching, but if you are not taking care while winching and you operate your winch down to a stall situation and don't stop winching, the USI-160 will disconnect the auxiliary battery so that if you damage the cranking battery, you still have the auxiliary battery as an emergency backup.

Next, if once you have finished your winch operations but forget to switch the USI-160 back to normal operations, if you turn your motor off, 5 minutes after your motor is turned off, the USI-160 automatically resets the Cut-Out voltage back up to 12.0v, removing any risk of you flattening both batteries while camping.

Hope this answers your questions.



Thanks Tim...appreciate the detailed response. I'll be in touch.

Cheers,
Bill

[D4206]

[QUOTE

Here's a thread on compressor locations for reference:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup.html

Compressor in driver's side aux tray:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l319-discovery-3-4/105645d1455420818-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup-img_1176.jpg


Hi Scott,

I've ordered the Traxide unit....so in the meantime started looking at the compressor mounting in the drivers side area as per your photo...how did you fix your compressor? I assume that I'll need a large metal base plate and have the compressor fixed to that befor installing in that area? The ferrules in that area don't seem particularly well located to be useable.

Cheers,
Bill

[LRD414]

Here's a thread on compressor locations for reference:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup.html

...how did you fix your compressor?
I assume that I'll need a large metal base plate and have the compressor fixed to that before installing in that area?
The ferrules in that area don't seem particularly well located to be useable.
Bill, yes you are correct. I haven't done it but have a look in that thread I linked to see what James, Kieran and David have done. Link here again:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup.html

And this thread by Graeme provides good details for clearing the aux tray in the first place:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/102180-clearing-d4-aux-battery-tray.html

Cheers,
Scott

[John & Deb]

Hi Tim,


The other day you posted that the "new SC80 has REVERSE CHARGING to allow for solar panels ( with a regulator ) or a battery charger to be used via the Anderson plug at the rear, to charge and maintain both batteries, even while the vehicle is locked up".


I have always thought that even with the old SC-80, if I plug solar panels or a battery charger to the Anderson plug at the rear, the cranking battery would also charge, as long as I had plugged the panels or charger into the rear Anderson plug while the green light on the SC-80 was still solid on, as it is for a while after turning the engine off.


Is that right?


Cheers,
--John

[l00kin4]

Hi Scott,

I've ordered the Traxide unit....so in the meantime started looking at the compressor mounting in the drivers side area as per your photo...how did you fix your compressor? I assume that I'll need a large metal base plate and have the compressor fixed to that befor installing in that area? The ferrules in that area don't seem particularly well located to be useable.

Cheers,
Bill

Hi Bill,
I've added a few more pics in the other thread that Scott has referenced. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup.html
David

[drivesafe]

Hi Tim,

The other day you posted that the "new SC80 has REVERSE CHARGING to allow for solar panels ( with a regulator ) or a battery charger to be used via the Anderson plug at the rear, to charge and maintain both batteries, even while the vehicle is locked up".

I have always thought that even with the old SC-80, if I plug solar panels or a battery charger to the Anderson plug at the rear, the cranking battery would also charge, as long as I had plugged the panels or charger into the rear Anderson plug while the green light on the SC-80 was still solid on, as it is for a while after turning the engine off.

Is that right?

Hi John and you are correct, the SC80 has always allowed reverse charging as long as the COMMON battery had no dropped below 12.0v, causing the SC80 to turn of.

With the old setup, you would be charging both batteries at the same time, if the SC80 was still on ( above 12.0v ).

This is still the case with the new SC80 MKII, but because of the high incidents of cranking batteries going flat, and this applies to all makes of new vehicles, not just LRs, I had to add some additional charging features.

As above, the SC80 MKII still allows for COMMON charging of all the batteries if you connect the charging source while the common battery voltage is above12.0v.

There is also the new TIME-OUT feature which turns the SC80 MKII off automatically, if the vehicle's motor has not been on in the at least 3 day.

As some vehicles are a real pain to gain access if the cranking battery does go flat, I have now add REVERSE CHARGING, available at all voltage levels, even when the auxiliary battery is flat.

The major difference is that if the SC80 has cut out ( turned off ), whether it did so because it Timed Out or because the common voltage dropped below 12.0v, the SC80 now allows the auxiliary battery to charge first and then when auxiliary the battery is near fully charged, the SC80 turns on and charges the cranking battery.

The SC80 has been deliberately programmed to work this way to avoid the possibility of the cranking battery having a dropped cell and keeping the auxiliary battery at no higher than 12.0v while you were trying to charge it.

[RickO]

A lot of great info in the discussion, thanks everyone!

One question I have as an infrequent winch user after reading the thread below - is swapping over to a USI160 from a SC80 just a matter is swapping out the isolator (aside from running the cable for the remote)? I.e. No upgrading of existing cables for the higher current?

Thanks all,
RickO

[drivesafe]

Hi RickO, while the SC80 will happily handle the normal currents that occur in a standard dual battery situation, but once you start linking batteries while winching, it is advisable, to be able to get maximum benefit from the second battery, you will need both an increase in the cabling between the two batteries and there is a need to be able to bypass the SC80 while winching.

My USI-160 kits come with 3B&S cabling but there is nothing stopping you from using even thicker cabling.

While you do not need to use a bypass but if you do not install some form of bypass, the SC80 will simply cut out ( turn off ) every time you apply a heave load while winching.

Now this means, if you are only winching very infrequently, then just leave your set up as is.

If you are planning to do a fair bit of winching, then you should seriously consider both increasing the size of cable linking the two batteries and either installing a high current bypass switch or replace the SC80 with the USI-160.

Also note, if you have 6B&S calling and want to double the cable size, you can simply run additional 6B&S cabling in parallel with the existing 6B&S cable, which will then give you the equivalent cable size of 3B&S.

[RHS58]

Tim
I have your SC80 in my 2013 D4, and have lately been getting the low battery message.
I have a feeling the cranking battery may be on the way out. Booked in to dealership next month for testing and if it's no good then maybe assistance with another battery before warranty runs out. Hopefully.

Tim, would there be a big advantage in upgrading my SC80 to your SC80 Mk II? I like the time-out and reverse charge at all voltage levels.

I probably already know your answer...I've answered my own question, eh?

Ron

[scarry]

Big advantage if your vehicle isn't being used a lot,that's two answes��

Or do what I do,have a switch in the SC80 small control neutral so you can turn it off when you want to.I do this if the vehicle is sitting around a bit,to reduce battery drain.very easy to do